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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 08:19 AM
  #21  
 
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BTW - Since I misread your intentions in OP you are not nearly taking enough trains for any BritRail Pass to pay off- contrary to my earlier statement based on my incomplete reading of thread. Book your tickets at www.nationalrail.co.uk though for long distance trains for cheaper rates. Trains like to Oxford/Cambridge just buy at station to retain full flexibility.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 08:34 AM
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I would be inclined to put Paris first. I've spent a jet-lagged first day in many large cities in the world, including Beijing, and it's not too bad if you make no plans for the first day that are carved in stone, and try to stay outdoors as much as possible.

Paris is not as hilly as Edinburgh, and I think climbing hills might be tiresome when you're jet-lagged.

You say you'll have 14 days on the ground. However, people mean different things with that. If that counts arrival day and departure day, it's really only 13 nights, which is 12 full days. Arrival day will be at best half a day, once you get settled in. Departure day will be almost entirely spent in traveling back to the US, because flights to the US normally leave Europe very early in the day.

My advice below assumes you'll have 14 nights in Europe, which is 13 full days. If you'll only have 13 nights in Europe, you'll have to cut something. My suggestion borrows from Gardyloo and Janis. You can easily switch Paris to the end, if you prefer.

Paris 4 nights, fly to Edinburgh.

Edinburgh 4 nights, include a day tour to the highlands, train to Durham

Here are three alternatives for the next bit:

Take Gardyloo's advice and drive to Durham (1 night on the road and 1 night in Durham), train to London

OR

Train to Durham, 2 nights in Durham, train to London

OR

train to York, 2 nights in York, train to London

4 nights in London

Both Durham and York are beautiful, but I would maybe give a slight edge to Durham. Gardyloo is right about the cathedral, although I would put Wells up there, too. The cathedral was special to me also because the Venerable Bede is buried there. Durham doesn't have a ton of tourists, as York does.

We were in Durham for four nights and enjoyed the stay very much. One day we visited Hadrian's wall, and one day we visited Newcastle and Jarrow (again, a Bede pilgrimage). We didn't have a car while we were in Durham, but it might have helped for the Hadrian's Wall visit. We also visited Crook Hall in Durham, a 13th century manor house with wonderful gardens. Finally, I highly recommend a walk along the river. With a 2-night stay, arriving early on the first day (or leaving late on the last day) you could see the cathedral, the castle, Crook Hall, and take a riverside walk.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 08:38 AM
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But then you have those pesky steep departure taxes flying from London!
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 10:33 AM
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The train line and road between Edinburgh and Durham down to Newcastle are often called amongst the most scenic in Britain - well the train line anyway not sure about road but train follows seaside much of way. But as a base like for bvlenci Durham yes can be nice. I stayed in Berwick-on-Tweed and used as a base for Borders Abbeys - Berwick to me was a real sleeper - fortified town with many forts still used. Lovely setting where Tweed River greets the sea.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 11:33 PM
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In terms of cathedrals Salisbury is a sublime example that buries Durham and York. Durham's position is impressive and York is massive but Salisbury has open fields on two sides and walking to it across the meadows in the early morning is up there with eating larks tongues to the sounds of french horns.
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Old Nov 23rd, 2017, 11:35 PM
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The trouble with Durham, after the wandering around the small city centre is what to do next. With York, the opportunities just keep coming, the walls themselves, the ancient buildings around the Cathedral and then probably the world's best train museum are fantastic and then all the little places still await you.
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 12:07 AM
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>>The train line and road between Edinburgh and Durham down to Newcastle are often called amongst the most scenic in Britain -<<

There is a bit of nice scenery and some water views, but it is not gob smacking gorgeous by any means
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 06:44 AM
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nevertheless the Guardian newspaper calls it 'one of the top 10 scenic train rides in Britain' - https://www.theguardian.com/uk/galle...-rail-journeys.
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 07:57 AM
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the world's best train museum are fantastic>

Yes in York practically adjacent to the main train station - also a gem of train shed architecture - uniquely built with noticeable curve in it and a grand old structure - but the National Railway Museum - great for all ages and especially kids and free - star attractions are collection of royal coaches and historic steam and other locomotives:

http://www.nrm.org.uk/
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 10:48 AM
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<i> tired of London tired of ...</i> ...life. Samuel Johnson, as quoted by James Boswell in <i> Boswell's Life of Johnson</i>.

I've seen York Minster, Salisbury Cathedral, and Durham Cathedral. It's true that the siting of Salisbury is exceptionally beautiful, seen from the meadows. But for the cathedral itself, seen from the inside, I don't think it equals the other two. I would also put Wells among the tops cathedrals for beauty. There are beautiful views of Durham Cathedral from the train, but I must admit that they don't surpass the views of Salisbury mentioned by Bilbo.

We spent 3 1/2 days in Durham and never tired of it. We found plenty to do, including very interesting day trips. In fact, there was one more thing I wanted to see, a well-preserved Anglo Saxon church, still in use, in the nearby village of Escomb, but we ran out of time.
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 11:35 AM
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I remember the first time I saw Salisbury Cathedral. I didn't particularly like it. Too symmetrical. I preferred the more hodgepodge effect of Winchester and Wells with their extended building over several 100 years. Completely different from Salisbury which was completed in less than 40 years. I have grown to love and appreciate Salisbury Cathedral having stayed a month in a flat over the National Trust gift shop and including numerous visits since then. I now find the symmetry appealing and have a special fondness for Ela of Salusbury and her role as a founding figure. The Prisoner's window is simply on of the moist poignant and beautiful stained glass windows anywhere.

As for Durham, it too is a favorite, perhaps at the top of my list. A wonderful example of Late Romanesque and Early Gothic innovations. I love its fortress- like majesty. The piers and columns are massive and the chevrons, diagonals and spiral motifs make a bold statement and offers a contrast to the slimmer and more elegant ones of Winchester, Wells and York. For an English cathedral it is unique.
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 12:12 PM
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The views of Salisbury Cathedral majestically rising in the distance over cow-dotted meadows are famous if you take the footpath south (?) of town to where Constable and others put this bucolic scene on canvasses now world famous:

https://www.google.com/search?q=view...w=1536&bih=759

I took that walk what seems centuries ago and assume that patented view has not be altered but protected. (Being proactive here!)
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 12:31 PM
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Pal, there haven't been any cows in those fields, actually the water meadows, for some years. There have been cows in the past and sheep and even llamas. Both Constable and Turner have painted the view of cathedral from the water meadows.
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Old Nov 24th, 2017, 02:57 PM
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Thanks historytraveler - there were cows (and dinosaurs!) there when I visited long ago - I'll update my info.

Salisbury is more than just the cathedral itself and its close - a bustling market town and base for Stonehenge by bus and also historic Old Sarum in on the edge of town.

Great base for a few days.

Cheers!
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