The Roads Less Traveled: Traversing France With Mai Tai Tom & Tracy
Nov 14th, 2016, 03:12 PM
#61
Original Poster
After a recent bout with a cough that mirrors my 2014 France trip, here finally is the next day. We climbed a famed tower (and lived to tell about it), witnessed an incredible room of tombs, saw great art masterpieces, rubbed an owl (don’t worry, that’s legal in Dijon), visited a few of its beautiful churches, including descending into a cool crypt. Then we headed back to Beaune via the Route des Grand Crus. We ended our eventful day with yet another incredible dinner in Beaune. As always link below takes you to words and photos (all the good pictures were taken by Tracy).
<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-four-dijon-cuts-mustard/</B>
<B>Day Four – Scrambling For Breakfast, The Elusive Dijon Parking Lot, Heart-Stopping Climb, The Tomb Room, Owl Be Damned, Aztec Wishes, Not So Grand Cru, Not My Cup Of Wine, Oh That Wasn’t Our Bottle, A Looney Tunes Dinner and Last Call</B>
Up early (sorry Tracy). Although I enjoy bread, cheese, jam and calories as much as the next guy, on this morning I needed to hold back on my carb intake, and the lovely folks at Les Jardins de Loïs provided me with a hearty helping of scrambled eggs. Sadly, their croissants and jam are so good here, I ate those, too, so my non-carb diet stayed consistent. It did, however, give me the energy for the nearly one-hour leisurely drive to our appointed day trip destination…Dijon.
I set the GPS to the address of a parking lot allegedly located near the Palais des Ducs (Ducal Palace). Everything was going perfectly until we were only “0.2” kilometers from our appointed destination. Suddenly the GPS showed “2.7” kilometers. Retracing our driving route and following directions, the same thing happened…twice. About ready to scream at the GPS, but fearing I would scare Greg and Gloria (Tracy is used to my occasional rants by now), I fortunately saw the Hotel des Ducs. By product of deduction (and a little luck), I surmised a hotel with that name must be near the palace. Fortunately for me (and my marriage) I was correct, and we found a spot on the street (€4.20 for two hours…we set our watches…I mean phones).
Just around the corner was the Place de la Libération.
We found the tourist office and asked how we climb the Tour Philippe le Bon (I decided if I was going to have a heart attack, it might as well be early in the day). We were in luck; a tour guide would lead a small group up in five minutes (you must be accompanied by a guide). The climb cost €3 apiece. The tower dates from the 15th century and was the brainchild of Philippe Le Bon (Philip The Good), who served as the Duke of Burgundy from 1419 – 1467.
His claim to fame was making Dijon a center of the arts and bringing prosperity to the Burgundy region (thus “good”). Our guide told us there were 316 steps and, after reviving me, our small group started up the circular staircase. Fortunately, our guide stopped periodically to relay the history of the tower and let some of the old fogies (aka me) catch their breath.
Reaching the top, we were rewarded with a terrific view over Dijon, the largest city in Burgundy. We viewed a few of the places we would be visiting later on the town’s “Owl Walk.”
You are allotted about 15 minutes to enjoy the view…
…and then it was back down the stairs to the TI, where we picked up (for €3.50) a map for le parcours de la chouette (The Owl Trail). Dijon, like many other towns, has figured out a gimmick to let people enjoy their city. In Dijon, the owl can be seen on brass plaques on sides of certain historic buildings, and you can follow the trail by owl plaques on the sidewalk (much more fun and educational than attempting to find Pokémon).
Before our Dijon stroll, we visited the palace, which now houses the terrific Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts), one of France’s major fine arts museums. To make this even better, admission to the museum is free.
Although under renovation, what we witnessed inside was dazzling. In the Salles des Gardes are the magnificent “Tombs Of The Dukes”...Philippe le Hardi (Philip the Bold) and his son, Jean sans Peur (John the Fearless with his wife, Margaret of Bavaria).
These are cenotaphs (there is nobody really inside the tombs). Both tombs are stunning, and the room is spectacular.
The tomb of John and Margaret (we were on a first name basis by now), is “guarded” by angels.
Tracy called the room “breathtaking,” which is coincidentally what I had called our climb up Tour Philippe le Bon. To get in the spirit of local names, I dubbed myself Tom The Breathless. Leaving the tomb room, the Musée des Beaux-Arts continued to impress with rooms filled with beautiful paintings, sculptures and other pieces that span more than five centuries. It’s one of the oldest museums in France (1780s).
In one room stunning gilded altarpieces took center stage including this Crucifixion altarpiece created in the 4th century.
Other altarpieces stood out as well.
There could be a Monet or da Vinci in the room, but if there are dogs in the painting, they always win out.
Among the many paintings we found interesting were of Saint Margaret and Mary Magdalene…
…and a 1520 painting of The Arrest of Christ.
If you like busts (hey, this an art gallery), there are plenty.
Upstairs in the Musicians Gallery, there is a cool view of the tombs.
I don’t know why, but macabre art always fascinates me.
Finally, although it was still morning, we bid a good knight to the Musée des Beaux-Arts (if you visit Dijon, this is a must-see in my opinion).
Back outside, we decided to follow a modified Owl Trail route (after Tracy went back to put more parking money in the meter). I don’t know who this guy is supposed to be.
First stop was the Église Notre-Dame. As we walked toward the church on rue de la Chouette, there on an adjoining chapel, is where you’ll find an owl sculpture. Tradition has it that if you rub the owl with your left hand (just think of Donald Trump on a plane) and make a wish, it will come true. Although the idea is kind of a hoot, I can tell you it doesn’t work. San Diego State did not go undefeated this year. When I told Tracy this, she wished for a more thoughtful husband.
Legends abound here. Another one said that a moneylender who had come to Dijon to be married was crushed when a gargoyle fell on him. They were removed, and in the late 1800s sculptors made these “false gargoyles.”
Atop Église Notre-Dame is the Jacquemart family statue, “which stood on the top of the belfry in Courtrai (Belgium) before Philip the Bold, in punishment for a rebellion by the Flemish population, had it dismounted, crated up and brought to Dijon in 1382.” He gifted it to the city.
We spent a little time in this Burgundian Gothic place of worship constructed in the 13th century, and then continued on our way past hôtels particuliers (loosely translated to grand townhouses), including La maison Millière, a medieval house built in 1483, although the cat on top dates from the early 20th century...
...…and the Hotel de Vogüé, a 17th-century townhouse.
Also on our abbreviated Owl Walk we saw La Place du Théâtre and…
…L’église Saint-Michel, a Flamboyant Gothic church dating from the 16th century.
All this history made our flamboyant foursome hungry, so we headed back to Place de la Libération…
…where we had a good lunch (a little mustard dressing, of course) with a view of the fountains and palace.
After lunch, we walked down the main shopping drag, Rue de la Liberté…
…where happily (for moi) only Gloria spent money. Dijon lived up to its advanced billing, and it would also make a great base for visiting the Burgundy region.
We walked the entire street until reaching Porte Guillaume, a triumphal 18th-century arch (obscured slightly unfortunately).
Making a left turn, we reached Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne as it reopened for the afternoon. The 6th-century church was built on the site of a 6th-century Benedictine abbey. It’s dedicated to Saint Bénigne, who was martyred around the end of the 2nd century.
One architectural structure remains of the original Romanesque abbey that remains today; the large crypt (€2 to go to the crypt) where you can find the tomb of Saint Bénigne. We paid the €2.. Wandering the crypt, things were looking up.
Following the owls throughout town, we passed other historical buildings until it was time to say “au revoir” to Dijon, a little later than we had planned (plans are made to be broken).
Our goal now was to drive back to Beaune along the Route des Grand Crus, which is about a 60 kilometer stretch of road through the vineyards of Burgundy. After a slight GPS malfunction, we headed out of town and reached the road. It’s not that the vineyards are not colorful and the towns charming, but I think living in California we are pretty spoiled by the beauty of our own Napa, Sonoma, Alexander, Santa Ynez and other gorgeous vineyard valley roads, so the drive was not overwhelming. That said, if you visit here, my guess is you’ll probably love this drive (especially if you haven’t walked nearly five miles in Dijon).
Another confession…My preference is for heavier wines (zins, cabs, etc), so I didn’t love the Burgundian wines (they were good, just not my favorite). If you are Pinot Noir drinkers, however, this area’s varieties might just be your vin heaven. We did make a quick stop at a tasting room in Gevrey-Chambertin (after our GPS sent us into a field…now that was fun), but we didn’t buy (of course, being the responsible adult…and designated driver…I only took a few sips).
Stopping at Chateau de Clos de Vougeot, we hoped this might be a place for a tasting. It’s a charming chateau, but unfortunately it’s not a spot to taste wines. We stepped inside for a moment and strolled through their vineyards (so I did “stop and smell the vineyards”).
By now were fairly tired (ok, we were exhausted) after a big walking day in Dijon (I decided not to let Tracy look at the Fitbit for fear of recrimination), plus we still had that Magnum of our “house” wine to finish back at the B&B, so it was on to Beaune, where we sadly had no time for a nap (a recurrent theme on our trips).
As I walked outside with the rest of the Magnum in my hand, I saw Philippe. “That was a great price for such a large bottle,” I said.
Laughing, Philippe said, “That’s the bottle you took?” By the look on his face, I realized it was a little too good a deal. I had taken the wrong wine the afternoon before. I paid him the difference, and we finished it off before dinner. You never know what you’ll find until you stroll around the grounds.
One again it was a short walk on the outer road of Beaune (hmm, those look like ramparts)…
…(our restaurant was located virtually next door to Le Bacchus, where we had dined the previous evening). Caves Madeleine prides itself on “fresh-from-the-farm meat and vegetables,” and I had read some pretty heady reviews of both its cuisine and wine. One again, the reviews did not lie. Tables are lined up against the wall, and then there was one large communal table. All seats were filled by the evening’s conclusion (all three restaurants we dined at in Beaune were packed, so even if you go in shoulder season I would recommend reserving a table).
Our waiter brought a chalkboard to our table with four choices of a plat and entree. We ended up calling this our Looney Tunes dinner, because I ordered the rabbit, while the others went for the duck (sorry Bugs and Daffy).
I started with a very tasty tomato soup…and I have to admit I was hesitant about ordering lapin with a sabayon sauce. After one taste, “I yelled out, “Wow!” Tracy asked whether she could have a bite. I was firm, but kind, when I replied, “I’m sorry, but I’m not one to split hares tonight.”
Everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meal washed down by a couple of bottles of wine (we skipped the pinot and went for a delicious blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre).
The table also shared a peach cake with raspberry sorbet, because there is never enough food.
Total bill for four people: €133. I love France!
Since it was our last night together, the four of us walked back to Hôtel Le Cep for a last toast goodbye. Paco (aka Michael…I knew we had written his name down) was behind the bar, and Greg asked him to pour me an after-dinner I had never heard of before…Aperol. Michael concocted a drink of Aperol, tonic, champagne and club soda. It’s hard to describe, but it worked.
As we were about to depart, Michael wanted to introduce us to yet another potent potable. Since I had left my good liver back in the U.S., I obliged. He poured us all a shot of Soplica, a vodka from his home country of Poland. Thankfully, I would not have to get into an automobile until the following day.
Tomorrow, Greg and Gloria would head to Normandy, while Tracy and I faced our longest drive of the trip. Burgundy would soon be in our memories as we headed toward the lovely Luberon and our home base of Bonnieux. We only had one job the next morning…figure out which petrol to correctly put in the car. It sounds easy enough, but it turned out to be a little harder than we thought (don’t worry…we made it to Bonnieux by sunset).
<B>Next – Day Five: “Diesel” Or “Diesel”, Shut Out At Obi-Wan Kenobi, Never Pick The First Restaurant You See, Chicken Or Beef, It Helps To Have The Address, Room With A View, Circuitous Dinner Route, Beautiful Bonnieux, Dining Delight and Carrying A Torch</B>
<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-four-dijon-cuts-mustard/</B>
<B>Day Four – Scrambling For Breakfast, The Elusive Dijon Parking Lot, Heart-Stopping Climb, The Tomb Room, Owl Be Damned, Aztec Wishes, Not So Grand Cru, Not My Cup Of Wine, Oh That Wasn’t Our Bottle, A Looney Tunes Dinner and Last Call</B>
Up early (sorry Tracy). Although I enjoy bread, cheese, jam and calories as much as the next guy, on this morning I needed to hold back on my carb intake, and the lovely folks at Les Jardins de Loïs provided me with a hearty helping of scrambled eggs. Sadly, their croissants and jam are so good here, I ate those, too, so my non-carb diet stayed consistent. It did, however, give me the energy for the nearly one-hour leisurely drive to our appointed day trip destination…Dijon.
I set the GPS to the address of a parking lot allegedly located near the Palais des Ducs (Ducal Palace). Everything was going perfectly until we were only “0.2” kilometers from our appointed destination. Suddenly the GPS showed “2.7” kilometers. Retracing our driving route and following directions, the same thing happened…twice. About ready to scream at the GPS, but fearing I would scare Greg and Gloria (Tracy is used to my occasional rants by now), I fortunately saw the Hotel des Ducs. By product of deduction (and a little luck), I surmised a hotel with that name must be near the palace. Fortunately for me (and my marriage) I was correct, and we found a spot on the street (€4.20 for two hours…we set our watches…I mean phones).
Just around the corner was the Place de la Libération.
We found the tourist office and asked how we climb the Tour Philippe le Bon (I decided if I was going to have a heart attack, it might as well be early in the day). We were in luck; a tour guide would lead a small group up in five minutes (you must be accompanied by a guide). The climb cost €3 apiece. The tower dates from the 15th century and was the brainchild of Philippe Le Bon (Philip The Good), who served as the Duke of Burgundy from 1419 – 1467.
His claim to fame was making Dijon a center of the arts and bringing prosperity to the Burgundy region (thus “good”). Our guide told us there were 316 steps and, after reviving me, our small group started up the circular staircase. Fortunately, our guide stopped periodically to relay the history of the tower and let some of the old fogies (aka me) catch their breath.
Reaching the top, we were rewarded with a terrific view over Dijon, the largest city in Burgundy. We viewed a few of the places we would be visiting later on the town’s “Owl Walk.”
You are allotted about 15 minutes to enjoy the view…
…and then it was back down the stairs to the TI, where we picked up (for €3.50) a map for le parcours de la chouette (The Owl Trail). Dijon, like many other towns, has figured out a gimmick to let people enjoy their city. In Dijon, the owl can be seen on brass plaques on sides of certain historic buildings, and you can follow the trail by owl plaques on the sidewalk (much more fun and educational than attempting to find Pokémon).
Before our Dijon stroll, we visited the palace, which now houses the terrific Musée des Beaux-Arts (Museum of Fine Arts), one of France’s major fine arts museums. To make this even better, admission to the museum is free.
Although under renovation, what we witnessed inside was dazzling. In the Salles des Gardes are the magnificent “Tombs Of The Dukes”...Philippe le Hardi (Philip the Bold) and his son, Jean sans Peur (John the Fearless with his wife, Margaret of Bavaria).
These are cenotaphs (there is nobody really inside the tombs). Both tombs are stunning, and the room is spectacular.
The tomb of John and Margaret (we were on a first name basis by now), is “guarded” by angels.
Tracy called the room “breathtaking,” which is coincidentally what I had called our climb up Tour Philippe le Bon. To get in the spirit of local names, I dubbed myself Tom The Breathless. Leaving the tomb room, the Musée des Beaux-Arts continued to impress with rooms filled with beautiful paintings, sculptures and other pieces that span more than five centuries. It’s one of the oldest museums in France (1780s).
In one room stunning gilded altarpieces took center stage including this Crucifixion altarpiece created in the 4th century.
Other altarpieces stood out as well.
There could be a Monet or da Vinci in the room, but if there are dogs in the painting, they always win out.
Among the many paintings we found interesting were of Saint Margaret and Mary Magdalene…
…and a 1520 painting of The Arrest of Christ.
If you like busts (hey, this an art gallery), there are plenty.
Upstairs in the Musicians Gallery, there is a cool view of the tombs.
I don’t know why, but macabre art always fascinates me.
Finally, although it was still morning, we bid a good knight to the Musée des Beaux-Arts (if you visit Dijon, this is a must-see in my opinion).
Back outside, we decided to follow a modified Owl Trail route (after Tracy went back to put more parking money in the meter). I don’t know who this guy is supposed to be.
First stop was the Église Notre-Dame. As we walked toward the church on rue de la Chouette, there on an adjoining chapel, is where you’ll find an owl sculpture. Tradition has it that if you rub the owl with your left hand (just think of Donald Trump on a plane) and make a wish, it will come true. Although the idea is kind of a hoot, I can tell you it doesn’t work. San Diego State did not go undefeated this year. When I told Tracy this, she wished for a more thoughtful husband.
Legends abound here. Another one said that a moneylender who had come to Dijon to be married was crushed when a gargoyle fell on him. They were removed, and in the late 1800s sculptors made these “false gargoyles.”
Atop Église Notre-Dame is the Jacquemart family statue, “which stood on the top of the belfry in Courtrai (Belgium) before Philip the Bold, in punishment for a rebellion by the Flemish population, had it dismounted, crated up and brought to Dijon in 1382.” He gifted it to the city.
We spent a little time in this Burgundian Gothic place of worship constructed in the 13th century, and then continued on our way past hôtels particuliers (loosely translated to grand townhouses), including La maison Millière, a medieval house built in 1483, although the cat on top dates from the early 20th century...
...…and the Hotel de Vogüé, a 17th-century townhouse.
Also on our abbreviated Owl Walk we saw La Place du Théâtre and…
…L’église Saint-Michel, a Flamboyant Gothic church dating from the 16th century.
All this history made our flamboyant foursome hungry, so we headed back to Place de la Libération…
…where we had a good lunch (a little mustard dressing, of course) with a view of the fountains and palace.
After lunch, we walked down the main shopping drag, Rue de la Liberté…
…where happily (for moi) only Gloria spent money. Dijon lived up to its advanced billing, and it would also make a great base for visiting the Burgundy region.
We walked the entire street until reaching Porte Guillaume, a triumphal 18th-century arch (obscured slightly unfortunately).
Making a left turn, we reached Cathédrale Saint-Bénigne as it reopened for the afternoon. The 6th-century church was built on the site of a 6th-century Benedictine abbey. It’s dedicated to Saint Bénigne, who was martyred around the end of the 2nd century.
One architectural structure remains of the original Romanesque abbey that remains today; the large crypt (€2 to go to the crypt) where you can find the tomb of Saint Bénigne. We paid the €2.. Wandering the crypt, things were looking up.
Following the owls throughout town, we passed other historical buildings until it was time to say “au revoir” to Dijon, a little later than we had planned (plans are made to be broken).
Our goal now was to drive back to Beaune along the Route des Grand Crus, which is about a 60 kilometer stretch of road through the vineyards of Burgundy. After a slight GPS malfunction, we headed out of town and reached the road. It’s not that the vineyards are not colorful and the towns charming, but I think living in California we are pretty spoiled by the beauty of our own Napa, Sonoma, Alexander, Santa Ynez and other gorgeous vineyard valley roads, so the drive was not overwhelming. That said, if you visit here, my guess is you’ll probably love this drive (especially if you haven’t walked nearly five miles in Dijon).
Another confession…My preference is for heavier wines (zins, cabs, etc), so I didn’t love the Burgundian wines (they were good, just not my favorite). If you are Pinot Noir drinkers, however, this area’s varieties might just be your vin heaven. We did make a quick stop at a tasting room in Gevrey-Chambertin (after our GPS sent us into a field…now that was fun), but we didn’t buy (of course, being the responsible adult…and designated driver…I only took a few sips).
Stopping at Chateau de Clos de Vougeot, we hoped this might be a place for a tasting. It’s a charming chateau, but unfortunately it’s not a spot to taste wines. We stepped inside for a moment and strolled through their vineyards (so I did “stop and smell the vineyards”).
By now were fairly tired (ok, we were exhausted) after a big walking day in Dijon (I decided not to let Tracy look at the Fitbit for fear of recrimination), plus we still had that Magnum of our “house” wine to finish back at the B&B, so it was on to Beaune, where we sadly had no time for a nap (a recurrent theme on our trips).
As I walked outside with the rest of the Magnum in my hand, I saw Philippe. “That was a great price for such a large bottle,” I said.
Laughing, Philippe said, “That’s the bottle you took?” By the look on his face, I realized it was a little too good a deal. I had taken the wrong wine the afternoon before. I paid him the difference, and we finished it off before dinner. You never know what you’ll find until you stroll around the grounds.
One again it was a short walk on the outer road of Beaune (hmm, those look like ramparts)…
…(our restaurant was located virtually next door to Le Bacchus, where we had dined the previous evening). Caves Madeleine prides itself on “fresh-from-the-farm meat and vegetables,” and I had read some pretty heady reviews of both its cuisine and wine. One again, the reviews did not lie. Tables are lined up against the wall, and then there was one large communal table. All seats were filled by the evening’s conclusion (all three restaurants we dined at in Beaune were packed, so even if you go in shoulder season I would recommend reserving a table).
Our waiter brought a chalkboard to our table with four choices of a plat and entree. We ended up calling this our Looney Tunes dinner, because I ordered the rabbit, while the others went for the duck (sorry Bugs and Daffy).
I started with a very tasty tomato soup…and I have to admit I was hesitant about ordering lapin with a sabayon sauce. After one taste, “I yelled out, “Wow!” Tracy asked whether she could have a bite. I was firm, but kind, when I replied, “I’m sorry, but I’m not one to split hares tonight.”
Everyone thoroughly enjoyed their meal washed down by a couple of bottles of wine (we skipped the pinot and went for a delicious blend of Grenache and Mourvèdre).
The table also shared a peach cake with raspberry sorbet, because there is never enough food.
Total bill for four people: €133. I love France!
Since it was our last night together, the four of us walked back to Hôtel Le Cep for a last toast goodbye. Paco (aka Michael…I knew we had written his name down) was behind the bar, and Greg asked him to pour me an after-dinner I had never heard of before…Aperol. Michael concocted a drink of Aperol, tonic, champagne and club soda. It’s hard to describe, but it worked.
As we were about to depart, Michael wanted to introduce us to yet another potent potable. Since I had left my good liver back in the U.S., I obliged. He poured us all a shot of Soplica, a vodka from his home country of Poland. Thankfully, I would not have to get into an automobile until the following day.
Tomorrow, Greg and Gloria would head to Normandy, while Tracy and I faced our longest drive of the trip. Burgundy would soon be in our memories as we headed toward the lovely Luberon and our home base of Bonnieux. We only had one job the next morning…figure out which petrol to correctly put in the car. It sounds easy enough, but it turned out to be a little harder than we thought (don’t worry…we made it to Bonnieux by sunset).
<B>Next – Day Five: “Diesel” Or “Diesel”, Shut Out At Obi-Wan Kenobi, Never Pick The First Restaurant You See, Chicken Or Beef, It Helps To Have The Address, Room With A View, Circuitous Dinner Route, Beautiful Bonnieux, Dining Delight and Carrying A Torch</B>
Nov 14th, 2016, 04:02 PM
#62
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Love your report of Dijon! Felt like it was a pictorial of our visit. Great photos! If you're not into pinots, it's understandable why you might not be too high on Burgundy. Probably the personal experience we had in a winery on the Grand Cru route added to our enjoyment.
We're forging ahead on our report with more Provencal towns. We'll stay tuned for your next chapter.
We're forging ahead on our report with more Provencal towns. We'll stay tuned for your next chapter.
Nov 15th, 2016, 05:32 AM
#63
Original Poster
Yes, I probably should have researched better for a winery along Route des Grand Crus. We were so tired, however, that I don't know if it would have helped much (evil taskmaster). We also travel to Provence next...will be interesting to compare notes.
Nov 15th, 2016, 06:48 AM
#64
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Very nice report of my hometown maitaitom and beautiful pictures. I'm glad to see you had a great time and followed some parts of the Owl's Trail. But no pictures of the food hall? It was not a market day maybe. Too bad we didn't meet on that beautiful day.
I'm sorry your wish didn't work as it did for me when I passed my baccalaureat thanks to our lucky owl
If anyone wants to visit Dijon on a day trip and does not want to pay too much on parking, avoid areas with a blue P on parking meters and try to find ones with the orange P (short and long stay) where it is only 3.70€ for 24h or 2.90€ for 5 hours. Also here are the rates for underground car parks, check out the cheapest ones! http://www.dijon.fr/shared/images/fi...0000_10389.pdf
I'm sorry your wish didn't work as it did for me when I passed my baccalaureat thanks to our lucky owl
If anyone wants to visit Dijon on a day trip and does not want to pay too much on parking, avoid areas with a blue P on parking meters and try to find ones with the orange P (short and long stay) where it is only 3.70€ for 24h or 2.90€ for 5 hours. Also here are the rates for underground car parks, check out the cheapest ones! http://www.dijon.fr/shared/images/fi...0000_10389.pdf
Nov 15th, 2016, 07:11 AM
#65
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Maitaitom, we hear you about "we were so tired"!
Interests and energy sometimes collide.
As we've so often mentioned, your photos really enhance your report. We often don't describe the interiors of places because words fail.
Yes, it'll be interesting to compare notes on our ongoing travels. We did post our introductory foray into inland Provence below, and hope to continue soon.
Interests and energy sometimes collide.
As we've so often mentioned, your photos really enhance your report. We often don't describe the interiors of places because words fail.
Yes, it'll be interesting to compare notes on our ongoing travels. We did post our introductory foray into inland Provence below, and hope to continue soon.
Nov 17th, 2016, 01:56 PM
#67
Did you buy any mustard? I bought a pretty little ceramic jar as a souvenir. When I got home discovered it was full of the best mustard I've ever tasted. Sure hope I had planned better.
Once again your report is a great cheerer-upper on a dismal day.
Once again your report is a great cheerer-upper on a dismal day.
Nov 18th, 2016, 10:34 AM
#69
Original Poster
"Would you mind posting your next instalment so we could have something in English to read..."
My attempts at Korean have been woeful. Actually between a bad cough and an injured corgi, I've been sidetracked. I promise to have the next day (going to Provence) up by tomorrow morning and start getting this thing done. I will wait until they take all the Korean posts down tomorrow first, however.
My attempts at Korean have been woeful. Actually between a bad cough and an injured corgi, I've been sidetracked. I promise to have the next day (going to Provence) up by tomorrow morning and start getting this thing done. I will wait until they take all the Korean posts down tomorrow first, however.
Nov 20th, 2016, 01:00 PM
#70
Original Poster
On Day Five, Tracy and I go for a long drive and have a little problem with gas (no not that kind…the car kind). Then it’s on to Provence where we have our usual difficulty arriving in time for lunch, walk through A Year In Provence...in an hour, and eventually reach our beautiful B&B in Bonnieux overlooking the Luberon. We end the day at one of the most beautiful restaurants we ever dined…and the meal is great, too. Click the link below and travel with us to Provence!
(if you are using Safari, some of the photos might not load…try another browser for pics!)
<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-five-head-provence/</B>
Day Five: “Diesel” Or “Diesel”, Shut Out At Obi-Wan Kenobi, Never Pick The First Restaurant You See, Lost In Translation, Chicken Or Beef, It Helps To Have The Address, Room With A View, Beautiful Bonnieux, Circuitous Dinner Route, Dining Delight and Carrying A Torch
It was time to leave Beaune, but not before consuming vast amounts of Les Jardins de Loïs’s great croissants and jam. I reiterate; this is one of the finest lodgings we have stayed anywhere in Europe! The gate opened, and we were on our way.
Our destination was Bonnieux in the Luberon area of Provence. Tooling down the highway, I noticed we were in need of petrol, something that always causes consternation (for those that don’t know the great “Italian Petrol Fiasco of 2005,” please click here…it’s hard for me to read without breaking into a cold sweat).
Fortunately on this excursion, we knew we needed Diesel, so truthfully I thought this would be pretty easy…until we reached the gas pumps. Seemingly every pump said “Diesel,” but some also read “Gazole” or “gasoil Diesel.”
The only “Diesel” I didn’t see on the pumps was Vin Diesel.
As we pondered the pumps, we saw that a woman (who we discovered was from Germany on her way to Barcelona) was having a similar conundrum. She laughingly pointed out that we would immediately know if we selected the incorrect fuel ( was she in Italy in 2005?). Sadly neither one of us spoke French very well, so when we asked a French guy, “Diesel” or “Diesel,” he, as you might imagine, was rather perplexed at our dilemma.
Stepping inside the station, I asked the same stupid question, and while I’m sure the lady behind the counter thought, “Geez Americans are dumb,” she smiled and gave me the number of the pump that would would not force us to re-live that Gubbio nightmare. As it turned out, the correct pump said, “Diesel Diesel,” which actually could be Vin Diesel’s kid’s name if he had a sense of humor. Our sticker could have been of help, too, had we looked closely (perhaps we should stick to trains).
Back on the road to Bonnieux, we made a left turn near Avignon, and even with our GPS, we were feeling lost. We turned into a rest stop, and spent some time looking at a real map until we moved on. Soon we were really on the road less traveled. I had planned for our first hill town to be Oppède le Vieux, which by the time we arrived had been renamed Obi-Wan Kenobi (four hours in a car can make people a little crazy). I even had a restaurant picked out (Le Petit Café).
A small road led us to a paid parking lot below town, where divergent paths would either take us into town or on a nice hike. As we stood debating which path with a French family and a British family, once again there was hesitation.
It was difficult to ascertain which way was the correct direction into town. Fortunately at that moment some people came from the path on the left and told us that was the correct direction.
As was the case for our entire time we spent in Alsace many years ago, thanks to an unscheduled rest stop and trying to figure out the correct way to enter Obi-Wan Kenobi, we missed the 2 p.m. lunch bewitching hour by seven minutes (“No soup for you!”). The patio of the restaurant looked charming for those who arrive in time.
I was going to ask my now starving bride if she’d like to walk the 20 minutes up to the castle, but once again knew that would be a horrible decision (I’d yet to receive “the look” on this trip).
We strolled around the square, walked back to the car, via a small cemetery…
…where I think Tracy wanted to leave me after missing lunch, and we were on our way to our next hill town destination.
Most of our driving experiences from here on were peaceful, beautiful and, as a Southern California native, thankfully devoid of traffic.
Next on our hill town hit list was Ménerbes, a town that many said Peter Mayle ruined by writing “A Year in Provence.” From what had been written, I thought there might be hordes of tourists…
…however as we entered it was more like a ghost town. We walked along the first street…
…and were amazed to find an open restaurant, so we immediately plopped down at a table on the patio, thankful there was an establishment open at this hour. Our meal, however, became somewhat of an adventure in dining. We were “lost in translation.”
Tracy ordered a “Coke Light,” but instead was served a Cafe Latte. We tried to explain she wanted a coke, but after a minute we realized this was a fruitless endeavor, so I drank the latte. Caffeine baby! She did finally get a Coke later.
Tracy ordered a “boeuf” plat, but instead was served chicken, which was puzzling since there was no “poulet” dish on the menu. I also received the wrong dish, but the frites were delicious, and we knew we had 8 p.m. dinner reservations in Bonnieux, so we got a good chuckle about our luncheon adventure in which we received nothing we had ordered, except my beer and, finally, Tracy’s coke (to be fair, the food we did receive was good, just not what we ordered).
Afterward, we decided to stroll up to the top of Ménerbes and the Place de la Marie. In about five minutes we came upon an open restaurant with a gorgeous view of the plain below. Live and learn!
The castle was on our left as we made our way up…
…with great views out toward the countryside.
We walked by Dora Maar’s residence (she was a photographer and Picasso’s mistress, and he bought her a house here). Poet Joe Downing also lived here (not at the same time), and we stopped by his garden.
Ménerbes must have known we were coming because they had installed a defibrillator station along the route (actually, a lot of hill towns seem to have these at handy spots where tourists might decide to croak). This little hike was a good way for us to walk off those two meals we didn’t order.
Finally, the Place de la Marie loomed ahead and we got a picture of the church that isn’t a church anymore. Views out toward the other side of Ménerbes were lovely, as well.
Views out toward the other side of Ménerbes were lovely, as well.
ack in the car, we made a quick stop in Lacoste, but since it was late in the afternoon, we decided not to venture up to the castle once owned by the Marquis de Sade…plus we were too tired for sex anyway.
It was at some point between Lacoste and Bonnieux…
…that Tracy and I realized something we had forgotten; the address and directions to our next B&B. Our GPS could get us to Bonnieux, but after that we were on our own. Suddenly, it was 1996 all over again…finding a place by the seat of our pants. After a 15-minute wait at the entrance to Bonnieux (thanks to a car being hoisted on the back of a truck)…
… we did what we did in the old days…looked for a sign in a small town designating our lodging choice. Driving through Bonnieux, we could tell this was a cute town.
Just like the old days, the lodging sign was there, and five minutes later we were driving down the driveway of Les Terrasses du Luberon, another super choice (thanks to jamikins of the Fodors travel board).
The B&B has five rooms, a heated pool, a breakfast room and our living quarters (as did the other four) had a front patio offering spectacular views over the valley (photo from internet…we don’t own a drone).
Just like the old days, the lodging sign was there, and five minutes later we were driving down the driveway of Les Terrasses du Luberon, another super choice (thanks to jamikins of the Fodors travel board).
The B&B has five rooms, a heated pool, a breakfast room and our living quarters (as did the other four) had a front patio offering spectacular views over the valley (photo from internet…we don’t own a drone).
As it turned out, the torch was a flashlight, which we would need when we returned from our “easy” walk to and from the restaurant. Having iPhones, we declined.
Jean Marc said there would be just a little traffic on the walk into town along what turned out to be a little busier road than expected with no shoulder. It really wasn’t dangerous…I think.
What was dangerous was our hearing skills. Jean Marc had given us great directions to walk to L’Arôme. On the way to dinner, there were lots of cars passing by and not much in the way of a shoulder to walk on. Somehow we missed the turn onto the path less traveled, but 20 minutes later…
…we found the restaurant which is much more picturesque than the website. It was tough to decide between eating inside the 11th-century cave or outside on the covered terrace. We chose to eat inside which was fortuitous as smoking was allowed outside.
L’Arôme is really one of the prettiest restaurants we have dined at on all our travels. o make this a completely wonderful experience, the food here was exquisite (if food can be called exquisite).
Our server, Clara, was very nice and helpful with the menu. Tracy started with a Kir Royale, while I decided to try the Cocktail Maison (orange juice, Cointreau and cranberry juice). Clara brought out an amuse bouche consisting of creamy mozzarella, tomato and basil pesto on a Parmesan biscuit. It might the first ever amuse bouche to receive a “Wow.”
Tracy went with the €45 Menu Gourmand: House duck foie gras on fruit toast with quince chutney…
…Seared scallops with artichoke puree and walnut emulsion (L’Arôme is well-known for its seafood), a fromage course and a Lava cake with cinnamon ice cream. All those dishes were great with the lava cake receiving the coveted “Wow.”
I started with the green salad with walnut vinegar dressing (€11)…
…followed by lamb chops in thyme jus (€33). These were the best lamb chops I have ever had. Even Tracy, who really doesn’t care for lamb, gave it a “Double Wow.”
Before heading back to our B&B, we walked through town to scope out our other two restaurants. We stopped at a wine bar to soak in the local ambiance (and more wine) before heading back along the road.
Although Don McLean could be singing Starry, Starry Night or van Gogh painting it, it was still very dark on the walk back home. We used our iPhones as our “Torches,” which made me break into a little refrain of the Blazing Saddles theme song. “He made his blazing saddle, a torch to light the waaaaaay.” Fortunately we were alone, and in the dark, so I couldn’t tell if Tracy was giving me “the look” or not.
Our fluffy, comfortable bed (reminded us of those great Austrian fluffy beds) afforded us a great night’s sleep, which was good, because we would travel to some lovely Luberon villages the next day, and the first one had us seeing “Red.”
Next: Day Six – Seeing Red, Old Man “Squirrel Whisperer” Hiking, Another Sleepy Town, Taking My Lunch With A Grain Of Salt, Do We Need To Buy Them a Gift, Chateau Diversion, Busy Hill Town, Chasing Camus, Sunset In Bonnieux, Hail Cesar and An Impromptu Meeting Of The United Nations
(if you are using Safari, some of the photos might not load…try another browser for pics!)
<B>http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/chapter-five-head-provence/</B>
Day Five: “Diesel” Or “Diesel”, Shut Out At Obi-Wan Kenobi, Never Pick The First Restaurant You See, Lost In Translation, Chicken Or Beef, It Helps To Have The Address, Room With A View, Beautiful Bonnieux, Circuitous Dinner Route, Dining Delight and Carrying A Torch
It was time to leave Beaune, but not before consuming vast amounts of Les Jardins de Loïs’s great croissants and jam. I reiterate; this is one of the finest lodgings we have stayed anywhere in Europe! The gate opened, and we were on our way.
Our destination was Bonnieux in the Luberon area of Provence. Tooling down the highway, I noticed we were in need of petrol, something that always causes consternation (for those that don’t know the great “Italian Petrol Fiasco of 2005,” please click here…it’s hard for me to read without breaking into a cold sweat).
Fortunately on this excursion, we knew we needed Diesel, so truthfully I thought this would be pretty easy…until we reached the gas pumps. Seemingly every pump said “Diesel,” but some also read “Gazole” or “gasoil Diesel.”
The only “Diesel” I didn’t see on the pumps was Vin Diesel.
As we pondered the pumps, we saw that a woman (who we discovered was from Germany on her way to Barcelona) was having a similar conundrum. She laughingly pointed out that we would immediately know if we selected the incorrect fuel ( was she in Italy in 2005?). Sadly neither one of us spoke French very well, so when we asked a French guy, “Diesel” or “Diesel,” he, as you might imagine, was rather perplexed at our dilemma.
Stepping inside the station, I asked the same stupid question, and while I’m sure the lady behind the counter thought, “Geez Americans are dumb,” she smiled and gave me the number of the pump that would would not force us to re-live that Gubbio nightmare. As it turned out, the correct pump said, “Diesel Diesel,” which actually could be Vin Diesel’s kid’s name if he had a sense of humor. Our sticker could have been of help, too, had we looked closely (perhaps we should stick to trains).
Back on the road to Bonnieux, we made a left turn near Avignon, and even with our GPS, we were feeling lost. We turned into a rest stop, and spent some time looking at a real map until we moved on. Soon we were really on the road less traveled. I had planned for our first hill town to be Oppède le Vieux, which by the time we arrived had been renamed Obi-Wan Kenobi (four hours in a car can make people a little crazy). I even had a restaurant picked out (Le Petit Café).
A small road led us to a paid parking lot below town, where divergent paths would either take us into town or on a nice hike. As we stood debating which path with a French family and a British family, once again there was hesitation.
It was difficult to ascertain which way was the correct direction into town. Fortunately at that moment some people came from the path on the left and told us that was the correct direction.
As was the case for our entire time we spent in Alsace many years ago, thanks to an unscheduled rest stop and trying to figure out the correct way to enter Obi-Wan Kenobi, we missed the 2 p.m. lunch bewitching hour by seven minutes (“No soup for you!”). The patio of the restaurant looked charming for those who arrive in time.
I was going to ask my now starving bride if she’d like to walk the 20 minutes up to the castle, but once again knew that would be a horrible decision (I’d yet to receive “the look” on this trip).
We strolled around the square, walked back to the car, via a small cemetery…
…where I think Tracy wanted to leave me after missing lunch, and we were on our way to our next hill town destination.
Most of our driving experiences from here on were peaceful, beautiful and, as a Southern California native, thankfully devoid of traffic.
Next on our hill town hit list was Ménerbes, a town that many said Peter Mayle ruined by writing “A Year in Provence.” From what had been written, I thought there might be hordes of tourists…
…however as we entered it was more like a ghost town. We walked along the first street…
…and were amazed to find an open restaurant, so we immediately plopped down at a table on the patio, thankful there was an establishment open at this hour. Our meal, however, became somewhat of an adventure in dining. We were “lost in translation.”
Tracy ordered a “Coke Light,” but instead was served a Cafe Latte. We tried to explain she wanted a coke, but after a minute we realized this was a fruitless endeavor, so I drank the latte. Caffeine baby! She did finally get a Coke later.
Tracy ordered a “boeuf” plat, but instead was served chicken, which was puzzling since there was no “poulet” dish on the menu. I also received the wrong dish, but the frites were delicious, and we knew we had 8 p.m. dinner reservations in Bonnieux, so we got a good chuckle about our luncheon adventure in which we received nothing we had ordered, except my beer and, finally, Tracy’s coke (to be fair, the food we did receive was good, just not what we ordered).
Afterward, we decided to stroll up to the top of Ménerbes and the Place de la Marie. In about five minutes we came upon an open restaurant with a gorgeous view of the plain below. Live and learn!
The castle was on our left as we made our way up…
…with great views out toward the countryside.
We walked by Dora Maar’s residence (she was a photographer and Picasso’s mistress, and he bought her a house here). Poet Joe Downing also lived here (not at the same time), and we stopped by his garden.
Ménerbes must have known we were coming because they had installed a defibrillator station along the route (actually, a lot of hill towns seem to have these at handy spots where tourists might decide to croak). This little hike was a good way for us to walk off those two meals we didn’t order.
Finally, the Place de la Marie loomed ahead and we got a picture of the church that isn’t a church anymore. Views out toward the other side of Ménerbes were lovely, as well.
Views out toward the other side of Ménerbes were lovely, as well.
ack in the car, we made a quick stop in Lacoste, but since it was late in the afternoon, we decided not to venture up to the castle once owned by the Marquis de Sade…plus we were too tired for sex anyway.
It was at some point between Lacoste and Bonnieux…
…that Tracy and I realized something we had forgotten; the address and directions to our next B&B. Our GPS could get us to Bonnieux, but after that we were on our own. Suddenly, it was 1996 all over again…finding a place by the seat of our pants. After a 15-minute wait at the entrance to Bonnieux (thanks to a car being hoisted on the back of a truck)…
… we did what we did in the old days…looked for a sign in a small town designating our lodging choice. Driving through Bonnieux, we could tell this was a cute town.
Just like the old days, the lodging sign was there, and five minutes later we were driving down the driveway of Les Terrasses du Luberon, another super choice (thanks to jamikins of the Fodors travel board).
The B&B has five rooms, a heated pool, a breakfast room and our living quarters (as did the other four) had a front patio offering spectacular views over the valley (photo from internet…we don’t own a drone).
Just like the old days, the lodging sign was there, and five minutes later we were driving down the driveway of Les Terrasses du Luberon, another super choice (thanks to jamikins of the Fodors travel board).
The B&B has five rooms, a heated pool, a breakfast room and our living quarters (as did the other four) had a front patio offering spectacular views over the valley (photo from internet…we don’t own a drone).
As it turned out, the torch was a flashlight, which we would need when we returned from our “easy” walk to and from the restaurant. Having iPhones, we declined.
Jean Marc said there would be just a little traffic on the walk into town along what turned out to be a little busier road than expected with no shoulder. It really wasn’t dangerous…I think.
What was dangerous was our hearing skills. Jean Marc had given us great directions to walk to L’Arôme. On the way to dinner, there were lots of cars passing by and not much in the way of a shoulder to walk on. Somehow we missed the turn onto the path less traveled, but 20 minutes later…
…we found the restaurant which is much more picturesque than the website. It was tough to decide between eating inside the 11th-century cave or outside on the covered terrace. We chose to eat inside which was fortuitous as smoking was allowed outside.
L’Arôme is really one of the prettiest restaurants we have dined at on all our travels. o make this a completely wonderful experience, the food here was exquisite (if food can be called exquisite).
Our server, Clara, was very nice and helpful with the menu. Tracy started with a Kir Royale, while I decided to try the Cocktail Maison (orange juice, Cointreau and cranberry juice). Clara brought out an amuse bouche consisting of creamy mozzarella, tomato and basil pesto on a Parmesan biscuit. It might the first ever amuse bouche to receive a “Wow.”
Tracy went with the €45 Menu Gourmand: House duck foie gras on fruit toast with quince chutney…
…Seared scallops with artichoke puree and walnut emulsion (L’Arôme is well-known for its seafood), a fromage course and a Lava cake with cinnamon ice cream. All those dishes were great with the lava cake receiving the coveted “Wow.”
I started with the green salad with walnut vinegar dressing (€11)…
…followed by lamb chops in thyme jus (€33). These were the best lamb chops I have ever had. Even Tracy, who really doesn’t care for lamb, gave it a “Double Wow.”
Before heading back to our B&B, we walked through town to scope out our other two restaurants. We stopped at a wine bar to soak in the local ambiance (and more wine) before heading back along the road.
Although Don McLean could be singing Starry, Starry Night or van Gogh painting it, it was still very dark on the walk back home. We used our iPhones as our “Torches,” which made me break into a little refrain of the Blazing Saddles theme song. “He made his blazing saddle, a torch to light the waaaaaay.” Fortunately we were alone, and in the dark, so I couldn’t tell if Tracy was giving me “the look” or not.
Our fluffy, comfortable bed (reminded us of those great Austrian fluffy beds) afforded us a great night’s sleep, which was good, because we would travel to some lovely Luberon villages the next day, and the first one had us seeing “Red.”
Next: Day Six – Seeing Red, Old Man “Squirrel Whisperer” Hiking, Another Sleepy Town, Taking My Lunch With A Grain Of Salt, Do We Need To Buy Them a Gift, Chateau Diversion, Busy Hill Town, Chasing Camus, Sunset In Bonnieux, Hail Cesar and An Impromptu Meeting Of The United Nations
Nov 20th, 2016, 06:28 PM
#72
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Re: the "torch" experience. It might not have seemed fun at the time, but as you say, "There's a story in here someplace". We enjoyed your recounting of it.
We looked at your photos before reading the text, and thought sure that a few of the pix were places we had visited. But not so. There are so many pretty villages in Provence!
Another mutual experience: towns "fold" during the early afternoon.
As usual, nice report! Thanks, Tom!!
We looked at your photos before reading the text, and thought sure that a few of the pix were places we had visited. But not so. There are so many pretty villages in Provence!
Another mutual experience: towns "fold" during the early afternoon.
As usual, nice report! Thanks, Tom!!
Nov 21st, 2016, 06:25 AM
#73
Original Poster
"Tracy was giving you "the look" during your musical stylings of Blazing Saddles!"
denisea...! didn't get a "Hrrrumph" out of you!
tm...so true...we've missed a lot of lunches in our travels.
denisea...! didn't get a "Hrrrumph" out of you!
tm...so true...we've missed a lot of lunches in our travels.
Nov 21st, 2016, 01:03 PM
#76
great pics and some fun adventures - you do get yourselves in some pickles, don't you? but that food looks very yummy.
[funny - the french confusing you by using the english word "torch"!
and if you use the word "cola" that will usually get you a coke or a pepsi]
[funny - the french confusing you by using the english word "torch"!
and if you use the word "cola" that will usually get you a coke or a pepsi]
