Hi all!

We will be spending from December 20-Jan 2 in Paris this year! (Just the two of us)
We have been there before and have seen the major sites, and although they are great to see again and again -- This time we are looking to do some "off the beaten path" things. Any suggestions?

We have rented an apartment in the 11th -- Bastille area.

I have no idea what to do or where to go for Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, or New Years Eve. I know reservations are probably full for most places, and do not mind doing something medium to low - key on any of these occassions.

Anyone have any suggestions for these nights and the overall trip as well?

We are open to taking any types of classes, and I am looking into dinner at Jim Gaynes, if he does it around this time of year!
Thanks!!!!

Just been through some of the same ponderings, as we'll be there at the same time, also renting. So far I have discovered that many restaurants are actually closed (ones that a friend has recommended) but there are still openings to eat in some of the better known, more expensive restaurants. Openings still exist, I believe at Cinq restaurant and Le Meurice for the holidays, but the prices are steep! The falling dollar isn't helping matters either!

My wife (not Catholic) wants to go to midnight mass Christmas Eve at Notre Dame; I might prefer a church in the 6th (forget the name) which is smaller. Aside from museums and some dining out, I really don't know what we'll do. I think Paris.com (or some address like that) offers a list of events including concerts.

letour

CIRQUE D'HIVER! it's a small european-style circus - and i mean very small, but with a live band. one ring inside a historic building built just for the circus. near oberkampf. see www.cirquedhiver.com.

the acts are dogs, llamas, italian clowns, dancers, and a sad tiger at the end. lots of kids on the lower level, but in the middle tier there was lots of room and you were still within easy eyesite of the stage. we were there last t'giving.

check it out - it's cool!

have fun, regardless...

also the musee orangerie which is newly reopened...

We will be at Jim Haynes' soiree on Chistmas Eve.

Too lazy to proof read one short sentence ... Christmas Eve.

If you want to check out some Christmas shopping madness, you can take the RER A to Val d'Europe -- one of the biggest shopping malls in the area, plus a big luxury outlet mall (Armani, Hilfiger, Christian Lacroix, etc.) attached to it.

Nina! We will be at Jim Haynes on Christmas Eve too!

I was wondering if anyone has any particular markets they recommend or any types of classes that were random and fun?

Also, anyone famililar with the 11th -- the Bastille?

there's a market on blvd. richard lenoir, where the 11th meets the marais. supposed to be good, with clothes, jewelry, etc. as well as food. i think it's thursday and sunday...

Hi neddag-
Off the beaten eh? OK, this lovely bistro at 116 Ave., Ledru-Rollin is just a short one stop from metro Bastille. Walk up the avenue until you come to the corner of Rue de Charonne.
There you will find Bistrot du Peintre.
The food is delicious and as was passed on to me by our very own fodorite Dave-in-Paris.
Another hot favourite in the 11th: Bistrot Melac, 42 Leon-Frot.
Metro;Charonne

Melissa19 made a very good suggstion of going to the Cirque D'Hiver. In the same area at 114 rue Amelot is Le Clown Bar, Metro:Filles-du-Calvaire. It has a lovely ornate ceiling looking down on a fine old zinc bar counter.

I've looked up Jim Haynes but only had a brief moment to figure out who he is--will someone kindly enlighten me?
Also, the cirque looks great, but after one inquiry, I can't get the ticket info. to reappear on the site.

He's just a guy who has buffet dinner open houses at his place in Paris where anyone can come who calls and reserves in time (there is a reasonable small fee--20 euro I think). He's an expat and has lived there a long time doing that -- I think he's Dutch but I'm not positive, and does some writing. His place is in the 14th arrondisement.

As for Cirque d'Hiver, that's a good idea for folks worried about everything being closed as I checked and they even have a performance on Christmas Day! I think I've had some trouble with their website occasionally, but you can also get tickets for them at FNACE (www.fnac.com). Just type in "cirque d'hiver" to the Spectacles search box.

I can't wait to try the restaurants/bistros that tod recommeneded, they sound great, and so close!

I am not sure about the circus? The whole idea of a circus does not sound particularly appealing to me, but it seems like a lot of people on here seem to recommend it, and since my experience with recommendations on here have been great overall, I am inclined to at least look into it!
Thanks for that!

Has anyone been to the Jim Haynes dinners, what is customary to bring, a simple host gift, such a nice bottle of wine?

thanks

neddag - I hope some of my suggestions pay off. I find reading all the trip reports connected to Paris are a big source of information. Mine from last year will be way back in the queue but if you are interested type in - 2 Weeks in Paris & Great GTG Trip Report -(in the little oblong square that does searches) my solo adventure will reveal itself with all the restaurants/Bistros etc. Also some great walks!

Also surf the Paris Superthread and do a wander around the addresses that are suggested by going to http://photos.pagesjaunes.fr

That is one of my most fav things to do when I'm checking out a new hotel, bistro, whatever. I also like to go to the different metro stops and see what cafes & eating places are in the immediate area.

I think you are getting the wrong idea about the Jim Haynes thing. This isn't really like a small private dinner party or anything -- it's a very large open house with buffet service where you eat standing up. There are many people there (100? he has a limit, but maybe it's 50, whatever it is very crowded). YOu could go and barely talk to him, I don't think I did more than to say hello when I entered and to have him check my name, because he was busy talking to other people and it was very very crowded, so I really wasn't close to him anyway. If you want to bring him a gift, that would be nice, of course, but not necessary. He serves you wine from a box during the dinner and will not serve your wine if you bring it, I imagine.

Oh no, not "Chateau Le Cardboard"!!
Maybe in France it may be a little more agreeable. Here down South it's usually full of sulphates and packs a dynamite headache.

You can buy some quite good wines in a box in France. Whenever you see a miniature oak barrel on the counter of a French café for serving things like Beaujolais nouveau or Côtes du Rhône, there is a box inside of the barrel.

I went to the Cirque d'Hiver last winter with my college aged daughter and we both enjoyed it. My trip report describes the experience, as well as the other things we did during a winter week in Paris:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34762455

Thanks for the alternative address for the cirque, Christina.

just wanted to add about the cirque d'hiver... it's about the farthest from a Ringling Bros. circus that you can get. VERY SMALL, european-ish acts, a 10-piece live orchestra, in a unique building.

we took the bus to oberkampf and afterwards, we (2adults, 1 10y.o.) walked all the way down the rue de turenne into the marais. you could easily get to the bastille area.

since you've been to paris many times, this a great novelty that too many people miss.