Spello or Spoleto or Bevagna or Bettano. or Todi or Montefalco or.....
Jun 2nd, 2009, 04:05 PM
#1
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Spello or Spoleto or Bevagna or Bettano. or Todi or Montefalco or.....
Ummm, yeah... I seem to be a little conflicted on where to stay in Umbria for 3 nights before heading on to Ascoli Piceno and then all the way up to the Veneto.
I have read some of the Spello v. Spoleto debate threads and it is not helping much - there are lovers and haters almost in almost equal parts. Bevagna seems to be adored but I was leaning to a hill town (always loved them - San G, Volterra, Montepulciano, Montalcino). Montefalco seems to throw some of the hill back in that Bevagna lacks but it is so small..... Two newcomers; Bettano and Todi have started to interest me.
Assis - I am thinking the St. Francis this and that would be a bit much, Perugia, too big.
Now it's just plain confusing.
I like to wander the streets at night and early in the morning; small alleys, interesting lighting, some nightlife but it doesn't have to be a party. The older the better - newer structures sneaking in to the timeless Piazzas and streetscapes steals from the mood (Spello?).
Location, apart from the hill preference is not critical. I would prefer to be in the centre of the Umbrian valley but we will have a car and I love to drive (hill towns!).
So, if I could I would like to throw this open a little more, please weigh in and guide me oh wise Fodorites.
I have read some of the Spello v. Spoleto debate threads and it is not helping much - there are lovers and haters almost in almost equal parts. Bevagna seems to be adored but I was leaning to a hill town (always loved them - San G, Volterra, Montepulciano, Montalcino). Montefalco seems to throw some of the hill back in that Bevagna lacks but it is so small..... Two newcomers; Bettano and Todi have started to interest me.
Assis - I am thinking the St. Francis this and that would be a bit much, Perugia, too big.
Now it's just plain confusing.
I like to wander the streets at night and early in the morning; small alleys, interesting lighting, some nightlife but it doesn't have to be a party. The older the better - newer structures sneaking in to the timeless Piazzas and streetscapes steals from the mood (Spello?).
Location, apart from the hill preference is not critical. I would prefer to be in the centre of the Umbrian valley but we will have a car and I love to drive (hill towns!).
So, if I could I would like to throw this open a little more, please weigh in and guide me oh wise Fodorites.
Jun 2nd, 2009, 04:13 PM
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have you looked through pictures on these websites?
http://www.bella-umbria.com/
http://www.bellaumbria.net/da_vedere_eng.htm
http://www.bella-umbria.com/
http://www.bellaumbria.net/da_vedere_eng.htm
Jun 2nd, 2009, 05:58 PM
#3
OK, I'll give my two cents, but first you have to say what time of year these three days are....
We made several new Italian friends in Spoleto, so my feelings toward the town are favorably biased. We thought it was Goldilocks-size (not as big as Perugia, not as small as Spello, just right). We found an interesting mix of nightlife in several parts of the town and many good restaurants. At the top of the town, there's a path that's very popular in the morning for walking and jogging and in the afternoon for passagiata. Within the town are several interesting sights including the ruins of a Roman theater and a villa, the cathedral, bridge and Rocca. Lots of reasons to wander the streets and see what you find.
Spello is beautiful but too quiet for me. Bevagna, though charming, is too small a base town for me. Todi is lovely, but I think the historical center is pretty quiet at night. Gubbio has a terrific vibe during the day, but I haven't been there beyond dinner.
Depending on the timing of your trip, I wouldn't dismiss Perugia and Assisi.
We made several new Italian friends in Spoleto, so my feelings toward the town are favorably biased. We thought it was Goldilocks-size (not as big as Perugia, not as small as Spello, just right). We found an interesting mix of nightlife in several parts of the town and many good restaurants. At the top of the town, there's a path that's very popular in the morning for walking and jogging and in the afternoon for passagiata. Within the town are several interesting sights including the ruins of a Roman theater and a villa, the cathedral, bridge and Rocca. Lots of reasons to wander the streets and see what you find.
Spello is beautiful but too quiet for me. Bevagna, though charming, is too small a base town for me. Todi is lovely, but I think the historical center is pretty quiet at night. Gubbio has a terrific vibe during the day, but I haven't been there beyond dinner.
Depending on the timing of your trip, I wouldn't dismiss Perugia and Assisi.
Jun 2nd, 2009, 09:14 PM
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I also loved basing in Bevagna for 9 whole days about 2 years ago. Yes, it is a very teeny town (about 5000 inhabitants maybe?). Yes it is completely flat. BUT that is what I liked about it. I am also a lover of Italian hill towns and we had a car and traveled them all over Umbria (and loved each one differently!!). But it was SOOO good to get back to a flat and small base in the evenings after much huffing and puffing during the day trips. We found a restaurant that we loved in Bevagna and went back three times, other times we chose different ones. We also loved our hotel there Palazzo Brunamonti.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 07:47 AM
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I think that any of those you are considering would be wonderful. They all have what you're looking for except for "some nightlife". Spoleto and Todi are busier than your other choices, so perhaps they are your best bet. However, they are not as central and easily acceessed as Bevagna, Montefalco, Bettano and Spello. There is traffic/congestion when driving in and out of Spoleto and Todi due to the "modern" sections of the town at the base of the hill.
By the way, I don't remember any modern buildings in Spello.
Gubbio is probably closest to what you are looking for, but it is not central enough for me.
By the way, I don't remember any modern buildings in Spello.
Gubbio is probably closest to what you are looking for, but it is not central enough for me.
Jun 3rd, 2009, 10:05 AM
#8
You can get from Spoleto to most places in Umbria in less than an hour. Orvieto, Gubbio, Perugia, etc., are a bit farther. The drives between Spoleto and Todi and Spoleto and Bevagna/Montefalco are particularly scenic. The drive east toward Norcia is more rugged and mountainous and simply beautiful.
Bevagna is "central" but is not on the main north-south roads, so whether it's geographically more convenient depends on where you're going.
In Spoleto, we've stayed at the Hotel San Luca at the bottom of the town, just inside the city walls. Main roads leading in all directions were just a couple of turns from the hotel, and we didn't encounter heavy traffic or congestion. Our visits have been in mid- to late-October. Yes, there are newer buildings in Spoleto, but there are also Roman ruins.
http://www.hotelsanluca.com/index_eng.php
Bevagna is "central" but is not on the main north-south roads, so whether it's geographically more convenient depends on where you're going.
In Spoleto, we've stayed at the Hotel San Luca at the bottom of the town, just inside the city walls. Main roads leading in all directions were just a couple of turns from the hotel, and we didn't encounter heavy traffic or congestion. Our visits have been in mid- to late-October. Yes, there are newer buildings in Spoleto, but there are also Roman ruins.
http://www.hotelsanluca.com/index_eng.php
Jun 3rd, 2009, 03:10 PM
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View the Umbria Channel of www.WebVisionItaly.com which offers videos in English about Umbria, the shopping,the restaurants, the festivals.
My preference is Spello because of its compact size, artists in residence [particularly Marcchioni],it's fabulous restaurants serving delicious grilled meats, and its easy access to the highway: in 1 direction Assisi, Bettona, Perugia, Lago di Trasimeno; in other direction, Foligno, Trevi, Clitunno, Spoleto. An easy drive are Bevagna, Montefalco, Torgiano and Deruta .
Restaurants: Spello-Il Molino, Pinturrichio and La Cantina; Santa Maria degli Angeli [foot of hill below Assisi]-Elide; Bettona-Vettona; Clitunno-Benedetti; Perugia-da Cesarino
A real delight for the eyes and senses are Norcia and Castelluccio, way up in the Sibilini mountains. You may want to save that for the day you leave Umbria and go to Ascoli Piceno: up the mountains to Castelluccio, down the mountain to Le Marche. Check the weather first!
My preference is Spello because of its compact size, artists in residence [particularly Marcchioni],it's fabulous restaurants serving delicious grilled meats, and its easy access to the highway: in 1 direction Assisi, Bettona, Perugia, Lago di Trasimeno; in other direction, Foligno, Trevi, Clitunno, Spoleto. An easy drive are Bevagna, Montefalco, Torgiano and Deruta .
Restaurants: Spello-Il Molino, Pinturrichio and La Cantina; Santa Maria degli Angeli [foot of hill below Assisi]-Elide; Bettona-Vettona; Clitunno-Benedetti; Perugia-da Cesarino
A real delight for the eyes and senses are Norcia and Castelluccio, way up in the Sibilini mountains. You may want to save that for the day you leave Umbria and go to Ascoli Piceno: up the mountains to Castelluccio, down the mountain to Le Marche. Check the weather first!
Jun 3rd, 2009, 08:52 PM
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PSGMARTINO - here is an excerpt from my trip report :
We unpacked and got our bearings and I went to see about dinner. Since it was Wednesday and most restaurants there were closed, we only had a choice of two. We ended up in Ottavius restaurant (Ottavius Ristorante, Via Del Gonfalone 4, Bevagna; Tel : 0742-360555) which turned out to be just excellent, albeit pricey (but this would become the norm). Their special was gnocchi in sangrantino (the typical Umbrian wine) sauce and bacon. It was pure heaven. Others had tagliatelle with mushrooms, we all had lamb chops which were superb, salad, great wine and felt happy afterwards.
If you will be visiting Montefalco, here is another wonderful place :
Next up was Montefalco and L'Alchimista restaurant for lunch (L'Alchimista, Piazza del Comune 14, Montefalco; Tel : 0742-378558; closed all day Tuesdays). We happened upon Montefalco on market day so we took a look around, there was nothing special but it was fun anyway. Our lunch at L'Alchimista was our best this trip. So good that we made a special trip there again for dinner our last night.
The array of choices was dazzling, we could hardly choose what we wanted. The portions were good and plenty and the prices, for once, were not exorbitant. We ended up choosing actually TOO much food because it all sounded so good.
Have a great time, Umbria is beautiful. Make sure to take the drive to Norcia, Castellucio and the Piano Grande. A truly spectacular area !!
We unpacked and got our bearings and I went to see about dinner. Since it was Wednesday and most restaurants there were closed, we only had a choice of two. We ended up in Ottavius restaurant (Ottavius Ristorante, Via Del Gonfalone 4, Bevagna; Tel : 0742-360555) which turned out to be just excellent, albeit pricey (but this would become the norm). Their special was gnocchi in sangrantino (the typical Umbrian wine) sauce and bacon. It was pure heaven. Others had tagliatelle with mushrooms, we all had lamb chops which were superb, salad, great wine and felt happy afterwards.
If you will be visiting Montefalco, here is another wonderful place :
Next up was Montefalco and L'Alchimista restaurant for lunch (L'Alchimista, Piazza del Comune 14, Montefalco; Tel : 0742-378558; closed all day Tuesdays). We happened upon Montefalco on market day so we took a look around, there was nothing special but it was fun anyway. Our lunch at L'Alchimista was our best this trip. So good that we made a special trip there again for dinner our last night.
The array of choices was dazzling, we could hardly choose what we wanted. The portions were good and plenty and the prices, for once, were not exorbitant. We ended up choosing actually TOO much food because it all sounded so good.
Have a great time, Umbria is beautiful. Make sure to take the drive to Norcia, Castellucio and the Piano Grande. A truly spectacular area !!
Jun 3rd, 2009, 09:06 PM
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well simply based on all your criterion, Spoleto is the winner. While the others may have their appeal of quaintness etc. etc. Spoleto is the only one that is gonna give you walking around after hours something to do part of what you are looking for.
Jun 4th, 2009, 09:33 AM
#14
I stayed in Spello, and thought the location could not be beat. We visited Spoleto, Bevagna, Montefalco, Trevi (well, I drove on their town square), Assisi, Perugia (God, that was a great 47 minutes), Foligno (although we didn't want to) and Gubbio (Bucket of Bolts is a must!).
“All roads lead to Spello” became our mantra because of its central locale in the region. Below is my blog with pictures. The first three days (following all the airplane stuff) are the days we spent in Umbria (with photos). We loved the Palazzo Bocci in Spello, and we thought it made a great locale for seeing the area.
Whichever town you decide to stay, you can't go wrong, but my vote is Spello. Check out the day "Death of a Rental Car," it might provide you with very useful information.
http://travelswithmaitaitom.typepad.com/travels/
“All roads lead to Spello” became our mantra because of its central locale in the region. Below is my blog with pictures. The first three days (following all the airplane stuff) are the days we spent in Umbria (with photos). We loved the Palazzo Bocci in Spello, and we thought it made a great locale for seeing the area.
Whichever town you decide to stay, you can't go wrong, but my vote is Spello. Check out the day "Death of a Rental Car," it might provide you with very useful information.
http://travelswithmaitaitom.typepad.com/travels/
Jun 4th, 2009, 10:41 AM
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Aramis,
Maitai Tom and I visited many of the same towns on our respective trips in 2005. I think Flame went the year after? Choosing a favorite is hard, but it always seems that people like best the towns they stay in.
Visited and really enjoyed - Todi, Montfalco, Montepulciano, Pienza
Stayed and enjoyed - Assisi, Gubbio, Montalcino, Spello
My 2 favorites were Montalcino and Spello. Both were just the right size for me. Spello is tiny, charming, easy to access, next to no tourists, close to Assisi (10 min). No modern buildings in the upper hill town part. Quiet, but with some excellent restaurants, lots of flowers!
Montalcino, lovely views, awesome wine, wonderful people. Easy access to other s. Tuscan towns. Again, great restaurants, a bit bigger and more touristed than Spello, but still small and not crowded at night.
I'll see if I can top my old report for you.
Buon viaggio!
Maitai Tom and I visited many of the same towns on our respective trips in 2005. I think Flame went the year after? Choosing a favorite is hard, but it always seems that people like best the towns they stay in.
Visited and really enjoyed - Todi, Montfalco, Montepulciano, Pienza
Stayed and enjoyed - Assisi, Gubbio, Montalcino, Spello
My 2 favorites were Montalcino and Spello. Both were just the right size for me. Spello is tiny, charming, easy to access, next to no tourists, close to Assisi (10 min). No modern buildings in the upper hill town part. Quiet, but with some excellent restaurants, lots of flowers!
Montalcino, lovely views, awesome wine, wonderful people. Easy access to other s. Tuscan towns. Again, great restaurants, a bit bigger and more touristed than Spello, but still small and not crowded at night.
I'll see if I can top my old report for you.
Buon viaggio!
Jun 4th, 2009, 10:53 AM
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I just came back from Italy April 17-May 3 and I visited Assisi and Spoleto. Both were so very charming and (surprisingly) uncrowded. I was told that Assis would be teeming with tourists and pilgrims, but I was so surprised the way the economy has hit tourism in Italy - there were very small crowds and in fact I watched the sunset from the piazza at the Basilica di San Francesco - and it was just me and priest on a cell phone.
I also loved Spoleto - the Duomo is magnificent - with the last frescoes of Fra Lippi (and his final resting spot). It is quaint and charming with a beautiful view and relaxing atmosphere. I adored it!
I also loved Spoleto - the Duomo is magnificent - with the last frescoes of Fra Lippi (and his final resting spot). It is quaint and charming with a beautiful view and relaxing atmosphere. I adored it!
Jun 4th, 2009, 10:58 AM
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Dayle,
My trip to Umbria was in 2007 and yes we did indeed visit the same towns as you and Maitatom and loved them all, differently. I have found, personally, that after many trips to Umbria, Tuscany and Italy in general, that there is nothing "bad", it is all good and is basically a flip of a coin on where to stay. That said, does it mean that I find it easier to choose where to stay from trip to trip?? Well..... NO. LOL. But I have never been disappointed.
My trip to Umbria was in 2007 and yes we did indeed visit the same towns as you and Maitatom and loved them all, differently. I have found, personally, that after many trips to Umbria, Tuscany and Italy in general, that there is nothing "bad", it is all good and is basically a flip of a coin on where to stay. That said, does it mean that I find it easier to choose where to stay from trip to trip?? Well..... NO. LOL. But I have never been disappointed.
Jun 4th, 2009, 01:57 PM
#18
"That said, does it mean that I find it easier to choose where to stay from trip to trip??"
Flame123, you are so right. Even though I loved the hotel in San Quirico d'Orcia and thought the town was a perfect base, I think the next time in that area I want to stay in Montepulciano.
By the way, your description of the gnocchi in Sangrantino sauce and bacon at Ottavius restaurant in Bevagna, makes me want get on a plane and go today.
Flame123, you are so right. Even though I loved the hotel in San Quirico d'Orcia and thought the town was a perfect base, I think the next time in that area I want to stay in Montepulciano.
By the way, your description of the gnocchi in Sangrantino sauce and bacon at Ottavius restaurant in Bevagna, makes me want get on a plane and go today.
Jun 4th, 2009, 09:08 PM
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maitatitom - we REALLY must be on the same track!!! I based in San Quirico d'Orcia on my last trip about 6 months ago (and loved Il Poggiolo just outside the town where we stayed). Where did you stay? On my upcoming trip, in about 4 months time, we are staying right outside Montepulciano for a week at Sant' Antonio!!! When's YOUR next trip???
I am already amassing restaurant lists and recommendations. I cannot wait to immerse myself in pici!!!!!
I am already amassing restaurant lists and recommendations. I cannot wait to immerse myself in pici!!!!!
Jun 4th, 2009, 09:20 PM
#20
"Where did you stay?"
Palazzo del Capitano, perhaps my favorite hotel ever. Great garden in back to relax (although I never do). Good restaurant. Lovely rooms. Terrific staff. Fair prices. Next big trip is France whenever we can get the time. However, Italy is always on the short list. I will await your restaurant reviews. Have fun.
Palazzo del Capitano, perhaps my favorite hotel ever. Great garden in back to relax (although I never do). Good restaurant. Lovely rooms. Terrific staff. Fair prices. Next big trip is France whenever we can get the time. However, Italy is always on the short list. I will await your restaurant reviews. Have fun.
