TravMimi

Sicily is a fantastic destination. I couldn't imagine doing 1 night in any city there, just too much to see. But you sure did pick some great spots.

kja

Thanks, TravMimi! I expect to wish I had more time everywhere I go, but I really do prefer overnight stays to day-trips when possible - so many places have such a different feel at night than during the day!

My itinerary is not yet written in stone, so further comments and suggestions are welcome!

NeoPatrick

While I'm less opposed to one night stays than some, I like them best when traveling by car. Doing them when traveling by train or bus and making connections to hotels really makes them less attractive to me. And I think you would be well served to have a car for the Matera, Trani, Lecce segment. Are you flying out of Lecce, or where do you go from there?
Honestly, I see nothing wrong with your itinerary, particularly all the Sicily part.

And you can easily get to Erice by bus from Palermo for an hour or two, which is all it really takes to see and enjoy it.

And for what it's worth, we ended up renting a car for part of our Sicily trip we had planned to do by train. When we were in Siracusa and going to Agrigento then Palermo, we found a car would be soooo much better than trying to make connections by train.

TravMimi

Getting a car in Sicily is a good idea. Much better than train connections. Which to me is the total opposite of the rest of Italy. Sicily is actually a pleasure to drive around in.

kja

Thanks, NeoPatrick - especially for the affirmation! I do now plan to rent a car for a few days, picking up just before leaving Palermo and dropping off when I arrive in Siracusa. As you, TravMimi, and others have noted, having a car will really simplify that part of my trip, and will let me do some things that I was afraid I wouldn't be able to do (like stop in Selinunte).

I'm still thinking of relying on trains for the Matera - Trani - Lecce segment: The connections look like they should work reasonably well for me, even though I know I will be more limited than I would be with a car.

And thanks for suggesting that even a quick trip to Erice would be worthwhile - I just might do that!

I'll be flying out of Bari (after initially thinking I would fly out of Brindisi). That complicated things a bit, because I'll actually have to move one last time, spending my last night in Bari rather than Lecce. Oh well!

NeoPatrick

OH! OH! Can you spend your last night at my favorite hotel in the world? It's a very short trip from there (Polignano a Mare) to Bari -- just 20 miles on a super highway, and having your final dinner in the cave with the waves of the adriatic crashing below and behind your candlelit table would be sooooo memorable.

The hotel will even arrange transfer to the Bari airport.

http://www.grottapalazzese.it/intro.html

kja

Wow, NeoPatrick, I hadn't considered staying there! I have been thinking about trying to stop there for dinner - it sounds so wonderful, and is sounds like such a perfect end to what I'm sure will be a wonderful journey - but I've been worried that it would just make that last night too complicated. Is it REALLY as good as everyone says? REALLY worth the cost?

NeoPatrick

The hotel rooms aren't all that special except we booked way ahead and got THE room, the one you see on the website under "characteristic room" with the all stone walls, vaulted ceilings, and tiny balcony cantilevered out over the sea.

But the Grotto restaurant is just SO unique and wonderful -- yes, I think it is worth it. I don't know what your budget is, but we didn't think it was all that expensive, although our room was, of course, more expensive than the regular ones.

I didn't check current hotel prices. Are they very high? What night would you be there. We stayed for three nights and it was over a weekend. The hotel was full -- we were the only Americans. Nearly all the other guests were regulars who come down from Milan and Rome for the weekend.

kja

Thanks to all of you for the many comments and suggestions that contributed to a fabulous journey!

Special thanks to NeoPatrick - As you suggested, I ate dinner on the last night of my trip at the Grotta Palazzese - what a perfect combination of incredibly delicious food, amazingly atmospheric setting, and impeccable service! Very memorable.

Flame123

kja - I recently returned from an 11 day fabulous trip to Puglia (only), and posted on this board. I would love to hear about your experiences and adventures. Will you also post a trip report??

kja

Hi, Flame123 - I saw your report and enjoyed it very much! I spent much less time in Puglia than you did, but had some similar conclusions: GREAT food; wonderful wines; AMAZINGLY warm, generous, and helpful people! My Italian is limited to just a few words, which I'm afraid I badly mispronounce, and yet it simply was not a problem, even with people who didn't speak English. People kindly and patiently found a way to communicate, and went out of their way to make sure I had a positive experience. One difference between your experience and mine: the breakfasts I had were more than adequate. I'm so glad I included Matera and part of Puglia in my travels, and would love to spend more time there in some future trip.

samuell

very interesting.
Flagging.

Saraho

ttt

tuscanlifeedit

ttt... planning for Southern Italy in May.