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Italy Trip Report: Tuscany, Campania (Amalfi Coast), Basilicata (Maratea, Matera)

Italy Trip Report: Tuscany, Campania (Amalfi Coast), Basilicata (Maratea, Matera)

Old Sep 8th, 2004, 10:45 PM
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Italy Trip Report: Tuscany, Campania (Amalfi Coast), Basilicata (Maratea, Matera)

Finally getting the time to write about our two-week trip to Italy last May. The excuse for the trip (as if anyone really needs an excuse to go to Italy) was that two friends of ours were getting married in Cortona. So we built a vacation around it, booking a week in Southern Tuscany before the nuptials, and a week in Campania and Basilicata the week after.

I am not going to dwell too long on the time we spent in Tuscany. I think it has been more than adequately covered in this forum. Suffice it to say that the highlights included the ?rehearsal? dinner (all 55 guests were invited). This was held in La Loggetta, the beautiful and historic restaurant directly across from the Palazzo Comunale in Cortona where the wedding was to be held the next day. We had a fantastic feast, which featured 2 antipasti courses, 4 pasta dishes, 2 meat dishes, and probably dessert, but I am not sure, as that was about the time that I think I passed out.

The wedding the next day was one of those really interesting cultural experiences. Because it was a civil service, it had a very bureaucratic quality to it; the bride and groom sitting at a large table, while the mayor (who looked to be all of 16) proceeded to fill out documents for them to sign. No ?do you take thee?? No ?till death do we part.?

Instead, the translation was something along the lines of, ?Do you swear that, according to Article 27A, Provision 2C, you have never murdered your neighbor?s wife??

Seriously.

The word ?murder? was used during a wedding ceremony.

The other ?interesting? reference was the plug for Cortona that the mayor made at the end of the ceremony, going so far as to reference ?Under the Tuscan Sun?. The context was, ?You know, ?Under the Tuscan Sun? wasn?t that accurate of a film. They showed chickens running around in the piazza. We haven?t had that in 50 years.? While that may have been true, I was starting to wonder if this were a dare to see how many unrelated words he could work into the wedding. I started looking for the list: murder, chicken, volcano, deodorant?

Anyway, the reception banquet put the rehearsal dinner to shame. I lost track of the variety of antipasti, and pasta dishes. There were 2 meat courses and 4 (!) desserts, including the wedding cake, which was a millefoglie, which is made from a thousand delicate layers of pastry dough filled with custard cream. Really, it just went past pleasure and circled right back into pain. I swear, no more food for the rest of the trip!

After we left Cortona the next day, we stopped in the town of Anagni at our favorite place for lunch, for Il Timbalo di Maccheroni. (What was I swearing last night?) As I have mentioned in previous posts, if you ever saw the movie Big Night, this was the piece de la resistance that they brought out at the end of the meal. It was so good that I had it for my primo and another serving as my secondo. (I swear that I only weigh 145lbs).

After getting some much needed exercise, walking the 20 feet from the restaurant to the car, we then made a stop at Ercolano, to see the ancient site of Herculaneum. Although we had been to Pompeii, it was interesting to contrast the differences between the patrician palaces there vs. the middle class dwellings in Pompeii. Since it was after 4pm, we got a discounted ticket price, and given the size of the site, it is rather easy to see comfortably in about 2 hours. If you have seen Pompeii already, I recommend Herculaneum next time you are in the area.

Like all the other visitors that day, we parked illegally, half on the sidewalk half off, right in front of the entrance. It was really quite convenient. I really don?t mind driving in Italy, but I have to admit that the area from Naples to Sorrento can be a challenge. Somehow, I managed to wend my way back onto the Autostrada, not so much by retracing my previous steps as by the method by which a leaf or a toy boat is carried down a torrent. At one point, I could see the entrance to the Autostrada a block away, but between the entrance and me was a long portable barrier with a person in street clothes standing next to it. When I decided to just go around the barrier (in part just to see what would happen) the person told me that the road was closed. I replied that I was getting on the Autostrada. ?OK?, he replied, and off I went. I don?t know if this has any significance, but it struck me that, in a country that doesn?t seem short of civil servants, they seem to have vigilante traffic control.

So, we spent the next 3 days in Positano, doing nothing in particular. We stayed at the Villa Rosa, which was a nice place for the money, about 140 euro per night. I recommend one of the top two floors for the best views and the least amount of noise from scooters; however, no elevators. It was great to have breakfast served in your room everyday and enjoy it along with your views from your balcony.

One day we took a boat to Amalfi, and the views along the coast are stunning. I have to admit that on our first trip to the Amalfi Coast in 1998, I was completely charmed by Positano and less so by Amalfi. I think it was the long line of tour busses that greet you as soon as you arrive into town. Also, because it gets a larger share of day trips than Positano, it has a substantial display of souvenir stands right along the main thoroughfare. This time, however, we decided to explore deeper into Amalfi.

Of course, there is the Duomo. Don?t miss the mosaic façade and the striking white cloister. But as we walked further up hill, and the crowds began to thin, we noticed a sign that said that, this direction to the ?Valle dei Mulini?, or Valley of the Mills. We were intrigued and perplexed. Mills? What kind of mills? How far is it? We didn?t have a guidebook. Was this a short stroll or would we be repelling?

As we walked, we passed over a grate in the street and I heard the sound of water. At this point the mountainside was very close to both sides of the road. ?Huh,? I said, ?This road must be built over a river.? As we continued to walk, we commented to each other how odd it was that the buildings were built right to the edge of the road. Why would they do that? We then noticed that some of the buildings had big, round indentations in the sides facing the road. What is that all about?

Hum?Walking over a river?buildings with big round indentations? built right up to the edge. What city boys we are! You could have to hit us in the head with a water wheel before we would have figured out that we had walked right up into the Valley of the Mills.

It was then that we noticed the Museum of Paper in one of the last 2 remaining paper mills in Amalfi. It turns out that in Medieval times, Amalfi was the largest supplier of paper to Europe and the mid-East (maybe the world). Nearby, we discovered the store Arte e Carte. Inside, a grizzled old man with skin that looked to have seen one too many chemicals was making paper by hand. Over and over, in a giant vat of water, he explained to us how he used a combination of wood pulp and cotton, working the slurry into a form to create envelopes and sheets of paper, which would air dry. He said that it took 10 days to make one envelope. He was amused when I told him that I make envelopes as well (I work for a printing company). He asked me how many I could make in 10 days. He seemed impressed when I told him: millions, but none with the charm and beauty of his. We bought several packs of handmade stationary and envelopes, some with ferns picked from the local hillside embedded into the paper.

Still further up the Valli dei Mullini we found a shop that makes its own Limoncello. More interesting were the other liqueurs made from fruits such as madarins, and the laurel, a somewhat medicinal if not unpleasant flavor. It was here that we found our selves drinking several varieties of spirits at 11am.

After 3 days in Positano, which also included a rather frustrating if ultimately rewarding drive to Ravello, we headed for Maratea, in the region of Basilicata, stopping first at Paestum for the fantastic Greek temples. This was among the first of the Greek colonies, and contains some of the best Greek ruins anywhere. We had lunch just outside the walls, at a place that makes its own mozzerella di buffula. We saw them making it and the process was fascinating. They gave us a rather large sample, but I am embarrassed to say that after our enormous lunch (which included some of the homemade mozzeralla) we just couldn?t finish it. Hopefully, they won?t be reading this and my secret will be safe with you.

We spent the next 3 nights at Maratea. On the recommendation of Bob the Navigator, we stayed at the wonderful Villa Cheta, and the coastline there is every bit as beautiful as the Amalfi coast, but without the traffic. This was supposed to be our relaxing beach part of the trip, but since it ended up raining every day, we found ourselves driving long mountain roads looking for things to do. We explored the charming town of Maratea, even taking the road to the very top to see the gargantuan statue of Christ, similar to the one in Rio de Janeiro. We were amused by the sign, spray painted on the road on the way up, ?A destra per Christo?; to the right for Christ. We weren?t sure if that was a simple direction or a political statement, but on those winding mountain roads, if you take that right too sharply, you?ll meet your maker sooner than intended.

So we left the west coast of Basilicata and headed east to Matera, the UNESCO World Heritage designated city, immortalized in Carlo Levi?s book, Christ Stopped at Eboli. However, first there was lunch to contend with.

We had not planned to stop in Potenza, Italy?s highest regional capital city; but it was 12:30 and our stomachs were grumbling, so it was time to be spontaneous. When we arrived in the center, it appeared that the entire town had job exited from Sunday mass and was parading up and down the main street in their Sunday best. The excitement was palpable. Little kids, kept quiet in church too long, could finally run in circles, chasing pigeons. Teenage girls could primp and ignore teenage boys obnoxiously swooping by on scooters. Friends and families caught up on all the latest gossip.

However, we had a mission. We found a restaurant, walked in, and it was empty, except that every table was meticulously set for a precise number of people. One was set for 18, another for 8, still another for 6. There were a couple tables for 2, so in a few minutes, when the proprietor accidentally passed by and found us standing there, we asked if he had a table for 2. He did. We sat.

Within minutes, hordes of people came streaming in for what was apparently their Sunday ritual: dinner at Mimí Ristorante. It was a family affair with Mom, Dad and the adult children all running the business. And it made for a very homey and comfortable experience. We didn?t get menus, nobody did, just food, and lots of it.

There was the antipasto of braised fennel, tiny meatballs, grilled eggplant and marinated vegetables. Then they presented the signature pasta of the area, strascinati, in two different sauces, one a tomato and the other with fennel and anchovy. By this point, we had to beg not to be served a meat course. They tried to give us dessert. No thank you. They tried a liqueur?a coffee?explaining that it was a fixed price, but we just could not eat any more. We told them how much we really enjoyed the meal and they presented the bill, for 15 euro each, including service and tax! Imagine, we could have spent four hours there and then skipped dinner. I don?t know how they do it.

Our last day and night in Matera was incredible. It is like taking a time capsule to the past. We stayed in the hotel Sassi, which resides in a series of caves carved into the ravine called the Sassi. This area was notorious in the 1960?s for being one of the most squalid places in Italy. People at that time still lived in these caves with no running water and or sanitation. Cholera was still an ongoing problem. The government finally had to step in and relocate the inhabitants to the modern town. The historic center was virtually abandoned until 1992 when UNESCO designated it a World Heritage Site. Since that time, hotels and restaurants have started redeveloping the old cave dwellings, and the Sassi are now about 25% occupied. We did walking tours and saw at least 10 churches which had been carved out of the living rock, most with frescos intact that were painted in Medieval times. It really was a magical place.

So, there you have it. I didn?t focus on hotels and restaurant names as much this time around, so if you want some additional practical info, let me know. I have cards from every place where we stayed and ate.
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Old Sep 8th, 2004, 11:17 PM
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Thanks Russ, it sounds like you had a wonderful time and love your description of the words at the wedding ceremony. Makes one wonder doesn't it?
Did you get the context at all?

Maybe you can list some of the hotels and restaurants in Basilicata, there are not many posts here on that area.

I will be visiting there next year, so I would appreciate it. Thanks.
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 02:24 AM
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Thanks, russ! We also enjoyed the duomo & the crypts in Amalfi, and it had been recommended by our hotel to visit the paper museum but we just didn't have time.
 
Old Sep 9th, 2004, 03:17 AM
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Great report. Loved the food descriptions and the wedding scene details. I've seen this before a few times, where the beautifully bedecked couple do nothing but sit at the big table signing papers.
Could you tell where is the town Anagni, where you had the timbalo. We're huge fans of the movie Big Night and we'll be in Tuscany next month (if Alitalia gets its act together) and would love to visit this restaurant.
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 03:55 AM
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Thanks for a wonderful report, russ. Somehow, you have managed to bring all of the flavors, sights, sounds, sentiment and humor into a brief story, and still include the places where you stayed and ate!

I remember the paper making Museum in Amalfi, (I am still doing watercolors on the paper I got there) and really enjoyed your descriptions of the Valle dei Mulini- and of the Sassi in Matera .
Strange to see your post this morning, because I had rented the film of "Christ Stopped at Eboli" 2 nights ago! Also loved your description of Mimi restaurant, and the Sunday passagiata in Potenza, Brava!!.
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 04:51 AM
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Thank you for your report. I've been dying to go to Matera after seeing 'The Passion of the Christ'. I sat through the credits at the end of the movie to see where it was filmed. Also, if I'm not mistaken, 'The Talented Mr. Ripley' was filmed in Maratea, and I also want to visit that town. Can't wait!
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 07:43 AM
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Thank you all for your comments. I have to run to work, but will answer your questions and post some additional infomation later today or tomorrow.

Russ
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 07:55 AM
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Wonderful trip report, thanks so much for posting!
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 07:51 PM
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Really interesting report. My grandparents were from Matera; they were poor and lived in the Sassi, traveling long distances to work in barren and rocky fields. It was a tough life, and they were eager to leave when the opportunity presented itself.

I am now hoping for the opportunity to visit Matera... life sure is surprising sometimes...
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Old Sep 9th, 2004, 08:29 PM
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I recently read a very interesting Frommers Budget Travel article about Matera and the Puglia/Basilicata regions generally. This was on an Amtrak train, and unfortunately I can't find the article online. This sounds like a great trip.
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Old Sep 10th, 2004, 01:13 AM
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"The Talented Mr. Ripley" was also partly filmed on Procida, a small Island near Naples.

Eagerly await your followup information, russ_1...
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Old Sep 10th, 2004, 02:37 AM
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Thank you for your report russ. It was wonderful. I hate to ask this inane question but I will anyway. Could you suggest/give me a couple of restaurants in the Maratea area as we will be there next month? Thanks.
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Old Sep 10th, 2004, 07:40 AM
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Wonderful trip report. Could I please go with you next time?
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Old Sep 12th, 2004, 12:18 AM
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Here is that article I mentioned. Note that Apulia = Puglia.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/5559841/
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Old Sep 12th, 2004, 10:30 AM
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Russ -
Thanks so much for your wonderful report. I really enjoyed it!

I took a similar trip in March. We went to cooking school for a week in Paestum - and the surrounding area was wonderful. From there we went to Matera and also stayed at the Hotel Sassi. I really liked the disparity between "old" Matera and "new" Matera - a very upscale town. We were supposed to stay 2 nights but after climbing those steps for one full day, we decided to be spontaneous and go to another city. We ended up in Taranto which was a very pleasant surprise. They have a lovely walk along the sea where, at night, people are taking a "passaggiata" along the water. We stayed at the Hotel Europa - with a view over the sea.

From there we drove through some really pretty sea towns on our way to Maratea. Since it was off season, we could only stay at La Locanda delle Donne Monarche. A lovely place. The Christ statue was a great surprise - I couldn't find its history in any of my guide books.

We ended up at Ravello - but our time spent in the most southern areas was really memorable.

Thanks again for sharing your report.
Dona
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Old Sep 12th, 2004, 10:08 PM
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Sorry it has taken me a while longer than intended to reply to everyone. As soon as I try to answer one question, it triggers some memory from the trip and I am off on a tangent.

SeaUrchin, my understanding of the context of a lot of the verbiage in the Italian wedding was that it is left over from long since obsolete ancient laws. I think that if you fell in love with your neighbor?s wife, they tried to discourage you from killing him in order to marry her. Apparently this was once a common enough problem that they had to have it written into marriage law. Today, I imagine it is similar to our phrase about anyone knowing why two people should not get married; it?s just not going to happen. No one really expects someone to say ? oh yea, come to think of it, there was that time I slipped arsenic into Antonio?s espresso ? but it?s still there in the vows. Ah, tradition.

With regards to hotels and restaurants: Going through my cards of all the places we stayed and ate brought back some of the fun and interesting encounters that we had with some of the owners and other travels along the way, so what follows is the answers to everyone?s hotel and restaurant questions, with some added color thrown in for good measure (sorry, I can?t help myself). Also, if you would like hotel and restaurant info from our trip two years ago to Rome, Bologna, Sirmione (on Lake Garda), Milan and Lake Orta, you can go to the post via the link http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...e=russ_i&fid=2.

We discovered Anagni driving to the Amalfi Coast about 6 years ago. Located about 20 minutes off the A1 autostrada, in the southern part of Lazio, south of Rome. We noticed that the town?s name on the map was underlined, and one could assume that its claim to fame is the duomo, which is opulently decorated, especially the crypt. It turns out that 4 popes in the Middle Ages were from Anagni. It was obvious who held the Papal purse strings during those years. But I digress.

What puts Anagni on the map for me is Ristorante del Gallo - Via Vittorio Emanuele, 152 Tel. 0775.727309. And what gives it an extra bold underline is the Timballo, a pasta dish baked in a drum shaped pan. Taking a bite, the first thing you taste is the crunchy, salty crust of prosciutto. The tangy sensation hits your mouth like a mild, but pleasurable version of touching your tongue to a 9-volt battery. This is immediately followed by the soft but dense pasta, which is firmly held together by the grated cheese, moistened and flavored with olive oil and just the barest minimum of tomato sauce. Fans of gooey, cheesy, eat-with-a-spoon lasagna might feel it is a bit dry, but I like to taste the pasta, not have it overpowered by the sauce. The occasional tiny meatball, baked randomly into it, might then add some additional variety to this slice of paradiso on a fork.

I enjoyed it so much I was really struggling with whether or not to order it again for my second course. I knew they would think this very odd, the cultural equivalent of going into a U.S. restaurant and ordering Lucky Charms for dinner. As I was getting up my nerve to ask, I starting telling the proprietor how much I enjoyed it, so he said ? order more if you like ? and saved me from embarrassing myself. By the way, they don?t have it on the menu everyday, however, the owner made a point of telling me that if you call the day before, they will be sure to make it, even for 2 people. I don?t know if any English is spoken, so good luck. (Lunch for 2, with 2 courses each, 1 side dish, ? carafe of wine, water, and service ? 44 euro).

In Positano, we went back to a favorite spot on our first night ? Lo Guarracino ? Via Positanesi d?America, 12 ? 089875794. This is on the footpath that runs above the sea, past the dock. A small ristorante/pizzeria, it has mostly typical local dishes and lots of seafood. We split a mixed seafood appetizer; followed by penne in a sauce of tomato, eggplant and mozzarella and spaghetti alle vongole, water and wine for 38 euro. Our unsmiling waitress, who was also the proprietress, seemed a little harried and brusque, but I was determined to find out what Lo Guarrancino meant. Her reply was ? an ugly fish. Surprised, I said ? but it a good tasting fish? No ? she said ? it tastes terrible. With that we three of us shared a laugh, and we enjoyed a delicious meal at the ugly, bad tasting fish. The rest of the evening she made a point to stop by the table to see if we were OK, smiling every time.

The second night we went more upscale, eating up the mountain at Il RITROVO, Via Monte 53, Montepertuso, 089 811336: dinner for 2 at 59 euro. We each had an appetizer and then shared a cioppino for two, with enormous shrimp, lobsters, clams and mussels. It could have easily fed 4. But most enjoyable was the couple that we met at the next table on their honeymoon. We bought them a congratulatory after dinner drink and were honored to introduce them to Limoncello, and they told us about their wonderful Italy adventures thus far in their trip.

We discovered that they were staying in the room just below us at the Villa Rosa, so the next day when we saw them on their balcony we made plans to have dinner together. We decided to take them to Lo Guarracino, and the evening could not have been more perfect to be sitting on the terrace overlooking the calm sea, with a warm breeze and a full moon - one of the best evenings of the trip.

We had booked the Villa Cheta hotel through Slow Dreams at http://www.slow-dreams.com/villa-cheta.htm before we left. We liked the website and the selections of hotels in the area, and they gave us some great itinerary advice as well. The style of the hotel is beautiful, built in Italy?s version of Art Nouveau called Liberty. We had a beautiful view of the sea and mountainside from our second story window, which was 18 euro additional per night.

The Villa Cheta was the highest rated hotel of our trip, a four star, and the only one that required booking half board, so we had all dinners on the property. Each morning at breakfast we were given the menu and asked to select for that evening, which was a little odd to be deciding if we wanted fish, meat or fowl at 8am over coffee and pastry. Overall the food was excellent, if a bit fussier and formal than Italian food usually tends to be. The clientele tended to be northern European retirees on vacation who have been going there every year for 15 or 20 years.

I have already described Mimí Ristorante in Potenza in detail above. You can find it at Via Rosica, 22, by the chiesa di S. Michele, tel. 0971 37592.

Our favorite meal in Matera was at Oi Marì, set in a magnificent series of caves dug into the hillside. It was interesting to imagine that at one point, these rooms housed families and even stables of animals, all living together. We each had a selection of vegetable antipasti and then shared the tagliata di manzo, which is nearly 2 pounds of filet, grilled to perfection and seasoned with herbs and spices. Dinner for 2: 44 euro.

That covers the highlights of the southern Italy restaurants. If I feel really inspired, I will try to add some Tuscany ones in there as well. Thanks everyone for your comments, and WillTravel for the link to the article, which was very interesting. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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Old Sep 13th, 2004, 02:20 AM
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russ_1-
you are a gem! These are wonderful descriptions, I will seek out that restaurant in Agnani based on your wonderful description, and thanks for all these leads!

Happy future journeys to you!
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Old Sep 13th, 2004, 07:40 AM
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Thanks sognatrice2. I almost hesitated to give the exact location of Ristorante del Gallo (feeling a bit proprietary about it), but after all the wonderful advice I have received on this board, how could I. Happy travels back atcha.
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Old Sep 15th, 2004, 05:09 PM
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russ i, I thoroughly enjoyed your report. We'll spend a Saturday afternoon and evening in early October in Cortona on our way to Umbria. Do you have any suggestions for restaurants or things we shouldn't miss.
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Old Sep 15th, 2004, 05:24 PM
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Nice report and a wonderful trip--grazie for sharing Russ.
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