Some Scathing Comments About Florence - We Would Like to Hear Some Other Perspectives!
Mar 25th, 2008, 05:58 PM
#61
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Understand, I LOVE Italy. Love it. I LOVE Rome. I LOVE Venice. But I LOATHE Florence. I signed up for a Fodor's account just so I could put my 2 cents in.
I never understood the fascination with Florence. As far as I am concerned the emperor has no clothes. Accademia houses David which is a must see; however, I personally wouldn't put another work of art from that entire museum in my home. The Uffizzi was a little better but really did not match my artistic interests. With the exception of David both are wildly overrated. The Duomo is without a doubt the ugliest church of note in all of Europe. The view is nice if you climb to the top. Still,it is hard to feel like you are in a special place when it is a monstrous mesh of pink, green and white. The Ponte Vecchio is an absolute joke. The bridge itself is ordinary. There is no such thing as a great view or picture of the Ponte Vecchio like there is with other famous bridges like the Rialto Bridge or the Bridge of Sighs. Frankly, its awful. I usually love markets but the merchandise sold around the bridge felt like a dollar store exploded its wares all about (not on the bridge, there are expensive gold shops). And the people. People everywhere. Clawing over one another to see mediocre works of art or to buy dollar store rejects. Its a travesty.
I disliked it the first time I went. I HATED it the second time I went. The third time I went to Italy I didn't even hop off the train as I went from Rome to Venice. I am sure the outskirts of town are lovely but tourists don't go to Italian cities to see the outskirts. They go to see the sights. In my opinion ALL the sights of Florence are vastly overrated. You would have a much better time in Tuscany if you avoided the city altogether.
I am actually flabberghasted every time I hear someone saying something negative about Paris. The art is superior, the food is superior, the architechture is superior, there are probably 20 sights in Paris I would recommend over every sight in Florence.
But enough of my objective review of Florence
I never understood the fascination with Florence. As far as I am concerned the emperor has no clothes. Accademia houses David which is a must see; however, I personally wouldn't put another work of art from that entire museum in my home. The Uffizzi was a little better but really did not match my artistic interests. With the exception of David both are wildly overrated. The Duomo is without a doubt the ugliest church of note in all of Europe. The view is nice if you climb to the top. Still,it is hard to feel like you are in a special place when it is a monstrous mesh of pink, green and white. The Ponte Vecchio is an absolute joke. The bridge itself is ordinary. There is no such thing as a great view or picture of the Ponte Vecchio like there is with other famous bridges like the Rialto Bridge or the Bridge of Sighs. Frankly, its awful. I usually love markets but the merchandise sold around the bridge felt like a dollar store exploded its wares all about (not on the bridge, there are expensive gold shops). And the people. People everywhere. Clawing over one another to see mediocre works of art or to buy dollar store rejects. Its a travesty.
I disliked it the first time I went. I HATED it the second time I went. The third time I went to Italy I didn't even hop off the train as I went from Rome to Venice. I am sure the outskirts of town are lovely but tourists don't go to Italian cities to see the outskirts. They go to see the sights. In my opinion ALL the sights of Florence are vastly overrated. You would have a much better time in Tuscany if you avoided the city altogether.
I am actually flabberghasted every time I hear someone saying something negative about Paris. The art is superior, the food is superior, the architechture is superior, there are probably 20 sights in Paris I would recommend over every sight in Florence.
But enough of my objective review of Florence
Mar 26th, 2008, 07:53 AM
#63
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I don't like Florence that much either. My opinion was affected on my first visit by arriving from Venice, which I loved. Back to noisy cars again, darn. Also on that first visit we saw a woman have her bag stolen by a rider on a passing Vespa. Then walking in Florence is not pleasant. Not only is it crowded, the Renaissance buildings have, on the street level, solid stone walls, few openings. Dirty stone walls. And it gets uncomfortably hot in Florence.
I feel about Florence like I feel about Paris. Lots of worthwhile things to see, but neither city enchants me. Rome is equally noisy and crowded, but I like it. And I really like Nice. No accounting for tastes.
I feel about Florence like I feel about Paris. Lots of worthwhile things to see, but neither city enchants me. Rome is equally noisy and crowded, but I like it. And I really like Nice. No accounting for tastes.
Mar 26th, 2008, 07:59 AM
#64
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We were in Florence in mid-May 2006. My daughter had studied there the previous semester, so I had my own tour guide. I loved it there. The streets are narrow, and sometimes I couldn't believe a car was actually driving on the tiny street, but that's an historic town, right?
It might depend on what weather you have. Ours was warm, but not hot, and dry. So it was perfect. And it was before the tourists arrived, so we didn't encounter the "hoardes" that some complain about.
I had expected Florence to be like a college town, with all the study abroad kids, but instead it felt like an upscale designer shop town.
Here's my trip report:
Florence-- http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34813784
I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I loved Florence, but I wouldn't go there in August.
>-
It might depend on what weather you have. Ours was warm, but not hot, and dry. So it was perfect. And it was before the tourists arrived, so we didn't encounter the "hoardes" that some complain about.
I had expected Florence to be like a college town, with all the study abroad kids, but instead it felt like an upscale designer shop town.
Here's my trip report:
Florence-- http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34813784
I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder. I loved Florence, but I wouldn't go there in August.
>-
Mar 26th, 2008, 09:03 AM
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The first time I visited Florence, my wife and I came from our base in Radda for the day.
We came totally unprepared.
And so we didn’t like Florence.
The streets were narrow and seemed to become narrower as we tried to figure out what to do with ourselves. The noisy motor scooters were everywhere, and most of them seemed aimed at us. The lines for the Uffizi and Accademia were laughably long. The Duomo was packed. It was warm and who wanted to climb the Campanile? We didn’t know about the treasures in the Brancacci Chapel and the Pitti Palace. We knew nothing about Ghiberti’s ”Gates of Paradise” or Santa Maria Novella. We didn’t know about the relief provided by the Boboli Gardens.
We did have a fine lunch at I’ Toscano, and we marveled at the tombs in Santa Croce, but our judgment was, on the whole, harsh.
But we knew, and not even deep down, that it was our ignorance that triggered our assessment.
I’ve gone back to Florence twice since then (my wife will not fly), and I’m going back in five weeks for 10 full days, and I know I’ll love every minute.
We came totally unprepared.
And so we didn’t like Florence.
The streets were narrow and seemed to become narrower as we tried to figure out what to do with ourselves. The noisy motor scooters were everywhere, and most of them seemed aimed at us. The lines for the Uffizi and Accademia were laughably long. The Duomo was packed. It was warm and who wanted to climb the Campanile? We didn’t know about the treasures in the Brancacci Chapel and the Pitti Palace. We knew nothing about Ghiberti’s ”Gates of Paradise” or Santa Maria Novella. We didn’t know about the relief provided by the Boboli Gardens.
We did have a fine lunch at I’ Toscano, and we marveled at the tombs in Santa Croce, but our judgment was, on the whole, harsh.
But we knew, and not even deep down, that it was our ignorance that triggered our assessment.
I’ve gone back to Florence twice since then (my wife will not fly), and I’m going back in five weeks for 10 full days, and I know I’ll love every minute.
Mar 29th, 2008, 12:22 PM
#67
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My first post on this forum after more than a year reading others' comments. I finally have to jump in because I am very depressed reading all this!
We had two memorable weeks in Rome last year and have booked two weeks in Florence for late September-early October of this year. We have been looking forward to really seeing Florence in-depth as one of the great cities of the world.
But what a stream of negativity! I hope our experience will be very different. We've already got our plane tickets and hotel reservations in the central city so it's too late to back out now. And it's all so expensive, especially with the dollar being where it is.
I'd love to hear more positive trip reports. Anybody?
We had two memorable weeks in Rome last year and have booked two weeks in Florence for late September-early October of this year. We have been looking forward to really seeing Florence in-depth as one of the great cities of the world.
But what a stream of negativity! I hope our experience will be very different. We've already got our plane tickets and hotel reservations in the central city so it's too late to back out now. And it's all so expensive, especially with the dollar being where it is.
I'd love to hear more positive trip reports. Anybody?
Mar 29th, 2008, 12:47 PM
#68
I spent the day in Florence. Nothing planned, just meandering.
The streets were packed, the scooters manic and the queues for the Uffizzi and climbing the dome were silly. This was also the first time I had been into the cathedral at Florence, and my personal opinion is that dome side, it is inferior to the cathedrals of both Siena and Pisa.
Having said all this, it was still a great trip. Florence is heaving with people because over hundreds of years people have always found the city worth gawking at. Queues at the Uffizzi? it is one of the great art galleries of the world - which is why everybody wants to get in.
It was a perfect spring day, the view from the Piazzale Michaelangelo was stunning, the view from San Miniato probably even better. On entering the church, I found a group of monks singing a service. Wonderful stuff. I walked back down the hill and sat on the embankment next to the Arno, eating an icecream and watching the rowers.
Florence was my introduction to Italy, and the start of a love affair with the country. Given time and patience, I cannot understand how anybody can dislike the place (Although personally I prefer Siena)
The streets were packed, the scooters manic and the queues for the Uffizzi and climbing the dome were silly. This was also the first time I had been into the cathedral at Florence, and my personal opinion is that dome side, it is inferior to the cathedrals of both Siena and Pisa.
Having said all this, it was still a great trip. Florence is heaving with people because over hundreds of years people have always found the city worth gawking at. Queues at the Uffizzi? it is one of the great art galleries of the world - which is why everybody wants to get in.
It was a perfect spring day, the view from the Piazzale Michaelangelo was stunning, the view from San Miniato probably even better. On entering the church, I found a group of monks singing a service. Wonderful stuff. I walked back down the hill and sat on the embankment next to the Arno, eating an icecream and watching the rowers.
Florence was my introduction to Italy, and the start of a love affair with the country. Given time and patience, I cannot understand how anybody can dislike the place (Although personally I prefer Siena)
Mar 29th, 2008, 01:05 PM
#69
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I just looked through this thread and am quite surprised by some of the comments. People who read Bryson's (often hysterically funny) books will know that he pokes fun at every city he visits! This is his schtik!
Mar 29th, 2008, 01:55 PM
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different trips to the same place are simply different one to each other. You may have both lovely and horrible experiences each time.
Just start to focus on your priorities and expectations to get the best out of it !
Just start to focus on your priorities and expectations to get the best out of it !
Mar 29th, 2008, 02:26 PM
#71
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Marie93, I wouldn't let this post discourage you. Everyone has different opinions on what makes a great vacation and a great place to visit, and one the best things about Fodors is that we all have such varying opinions. It makes this forums fun; think of how boring it would be if we all liked and recommended the same places.
Hopefully you will go to Florence and fall in love!
Tracy
Hopefully you will go to Florence and fall in love!
Tracy
Mar 29th, 2008, 10:17 PM
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I love Florence! My first time there I wandered around lost most of the time, truly disoriented and lost, but what a city to lose yourself in. It was autumn, the light was golden, the crowds were diminishing by the day, no reservations systems available so I waited in a queue along the pavement for about 30 minutes to see the David but was able to walk right into the Uffizzi. An exhibit of Matisse drawings had me in tears of rapture. I swooned over the Rape of the Sabines. I was young and passionate about all things florentine.
Another visit and I was older and more sensible, but still I fell in thrall with Florence. I arrived on the train, stayed in a pensione above a small ristorante just a block from the Duomo. If I leaned out my window far enough, I had a glimpse of the campanile. I walked and walked and walked, took buses up into the hills, wandered, filled my camera memory cards with 2000 images. Here's the Ponte Vecchio: http://www.jmstudio.fotopic.net/p4922061.html Not looking too tawdry, I think.
Still another visit, I brought 20 Americans with me to visit the gardens in Tuscany, and to share my love of Florence. They all fell under its spell.
One thing in common with all of my visits to Florence: never in the high season. Early October is best; the autumn light does lovely things to the stone and there's a mist in the air that softens the colors of the Duomo. Not so many pushing people in the streets. Second best is late April, I think, with the irises and roses blooming below Piazzale Michelangelo and in the gardens of the villas on the surrounding hillsides. Here are some photos from the gardens: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/c764136.html
Another visit and I was older and more sensible, but still I fell in thrall with Florence. I arrived on the train, stayed in a pensione above a small ristorante just a block from the Duomo. If I leaned out my window far enough, I had a glimpse of the campanile. I walked and walked and walked, took buses up into the hills, wandered, filled my camera memory cards with 2000 images. Here's the Ponte Vecchio: http://www.jmstudio.fotopic.net/p4922061.html Not looking too tawdry, I think.
Still another visit, I brought 20 Americans with me to visit the gardens in Tuscany, and to share my love of Florence. They all fell under its spell.
One thing in common with all of my visits to Florence: never in the high season. Early October is best; the autumn light does lovely things to the stone and there's a mist in the air that softens the colors of the Duomo. Not so many pushing people in the streets. Second best is late April, I think, with the irises and roses blooming below Piazzale Michelangelo and in the gardens of the villas on the surrounding hillsides. Here are some photos from the gardens: http://gardentouring.fotopic.net/c764136.html
Mar 30th, 2008, 08:54 AM
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Thank you for the posts everyone--I'm feeling a bit more optimistic.
And thanks for posting the beautiful garden photos, Julia. Gardens are one of my chief interests tho we will not be there at the height of garden season. I am planning to visit as many as possible--and doubt there will be crowds there, or people selling knick-knacks and T-shirts!
And thanks for posting the beautiful garden photos, Julia. Gardens are one of my chief interests tho we will not be there at the height of garden season. I am planning to visit as many as possible--and doubt there will be crowds there, or people selling knick-knacks and T-shirts!
Mar 30th, 2008, 09:22 AM
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Mar 30th, 2008, 10:37 AM
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What is there in Florence that demands such comfort sacrifices? Bill Bryson is an excellent reporter and he tells/writes it like he sees it. You now know that it will be crowded in the tourist time...why go if you don't like being with others? There are hundreds of places to visit in the world that offer similar values but with fewer problems.
Mar 30th, 2008, 11:00 AM
#77
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I read your premise, and then read on expecting to disagree strongly, but every point made is true. That said, Florence is the one city in Italy that I would definitely, absolutely, completely revisit again and again.
Amazing sights, close to many amazing places, the richness of the treasures is unimaginable.
Go Go Go
Amazing sights, close to many amazing places, the richness of the treasures is unimaginable.
Go Go Go
Apr 4th, 2008, 11:22 AM
#78
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I went to Florence in 2006 with my daughter, who was then 8, in August. Yes, it was hot, and busy, but also outrageously beautiful - and everyone was very nice to us!
We also stayed in Pisa, which is only an hour away by train, and was lovely to wander around - we felt very safe there.
We also stayed in Pisa, which is only an hour away by train, and was lovely to wander around - we felt very safe there.
Apr 5th, 2008, 10:00 AM
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I love Florence, and I'm in the middle of making plans for my fourth visit in July. All of my other visits have also been in July, so I know how hot and crowded it can be...but I like it hot! The crowds don't bother me, as long as I can get a table at a cafe or a clerk to help me in a shop, or get through the streets...and I've never had a problem with any of that.
I highly recommend booking your museum tour ahead of time; we did, and walked right past the long lines, directly into the Uffizi.
The streets certainly aren't dusty and dirty; when I've been there, the street cleaners come through every day. I don't recall seeing litter around, either.
I saw far more gypsies in Rome; the only gypsies I noticed were a group of musicians who played at night in Piazza della Republica. We enjoyed their lively music, and it added so much to our evening. I never noticed any beggars. There are street vendors, and I bought some a cute umbrella with the skyline of Florence that cheers me up every time I use it! I'd steer clear of the vendors selling leather goods, though.
Ponte Vecchio is very crowded, but they certainly don't sell only junk! They carry some of the beautiful Italian designer jewelry by Chimento and Marco Bicego, and it is less than in the states (also, some pieces that aren't sold in the states, so you can have something unique). Two nice stores are Ristori and Dante Cardini. I've bought from both and they are very nice to deal with.
The art is absolutely breathtaking, the architecture and sense of history are amazing, and the natural beauty of the setting just makes Florence one of my favorite places to visit. I think you will be very glad that you didn't change your plans. Please post when you return to let us know your thoughts.
I highly recommend booking your museum tour ahead of time; we did, and walked right past the long lines, directly into the Uffizi.
The streets certainly aren't dusty and dirty; when I've been there, the street cleaners come through every day. I don't recall seeing litter around, either.
I saw far more gypsies in Rome; the only gypsies I noticed were a group of musicians who played at night in Piazza della Republica. We enjoyed their lively music, and it added so much to our evening. I never noticed any beggars. There are street vendors, and I bought some a cute umbrella with the skyline of Florence that cheers me up every time I use it! I'd steer clear of the vendors selling leather goods, though.
Ponte Vecchio is very crowded, but they certainly don't sell only junk! They carry some of the beautiful Italian designer jewelry by Chimento and Marco Bicego, and it is less than in the states (also, some pieces that aren't sold in the states, so you can have something unique). Two nice stores are Ristori and Dante Cardini. I've bought from both and they are very nice to deal with.
The art is absolutely breathtaking, the architecture and sense of history are amazing, and the natural beauty of the setting just makes Florence one of my favorite places to visit. I think you will be very glad that you didn't change your plans. Please post when you return to let us know your thoughts.
