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Old Aug 24th, 2006 | 06:04 AM
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Sicily: Modica or Ortigia?

I'd planned three nights in Ortigia, Siracusa -- but recently read on one of the threads here that it can be a pain to go to and from for day trips.
There's a really chic-looking place in Modica, Casa Talia, which also appeals.

Where would you Fodorites recommend staying for 3 nights, in terms of great town to explore, beauty and charm, and base for trips to the baroque towns: Modica, or Ortigia?

I appreciate any input.
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Old Aug 24th, 2006 | 07:51 AM
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I had the same choice in 2005 and picked the B&B Il Limonetto outside of Siracusa. Great location to explore the area and the best limoncello in the world. See my trip report at slowtrav.com
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Old Aug 24th, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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I love Modica. I stayed at L'Orangerie which is literally right above Fattoria delle Torre, one of the finest restaurants in the region.

I also stayed in Ortygia, and wasn't as wowed as other people are. That is partly because I've spent a LOT of time in seaside villages in Italy. My favorite things about the area were the antiquities in Siracusa and the duomo in Ortygia (which I believe is under restoration). Unless you want to relax by the sea, I think Ortigia can be done as a day trip, and I would prefer to be in the area of the baroque towns.

Otherwise, I would consider staying in Ragusa.
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Old Aug 25th, 2006 | 05:16 PM
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Thanks, Nessundorma.

What do you think it is that impresses so many people about Ortygia? Is it just its quaintness and position by the sea?
Do you have any absolute favorite seaside villages in Sicily?
We're definitely going to Taormina, and possibly Stromboli for a night or two.
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Old Aug 25th, 2006 | 06:52 PM
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People are legitimately impressed by Ortygia. It has a great history that spans millennia, and its well-preserved interior is virtually carless. It has a lovely climate and a lively market -- it really is a lot of fun. It is full of subtle surprises in changes of architectural style if you are alert to them. And although many parts of town have been "boutiqued" for the tourist trade, there is still a functioning town there, with a middle class and a working class. And the food is excellent and some of the sophistication is very pleasant. Handicrafts there seemed to be a cut above the usual tourist tat.

The Duomo and its piazza are truly lovely. The Duomo was built using the structure of an ancient greek temple, and its bolstering columngs are still quite visible. It's a delightful sight. I have heard that presently the Duomo is under scaffolding however.

Its position by the sea guarantees this nice climate and nice feeling. The great ruins of Siracusa are just moments away.

Taormina has got a much more stunning r position, with Etna and the sea as part of the view. But it is extremely touristy. Do a google search for Castelmola and consider staying there instead.

I am not so familiar with other seaside locations in Sicily. You might try posting on the Slow Travel website to see if anyone can recommend someplace.

My next visit to Sicily I am definitely going to the Aeolona islands, and taking a boat trip to see Stromboli at night will be at the top of my list for things to do.

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Old Aug 25th, 2006 | 06:54 PM
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Sorry for all those typos! I was typing fast.
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Old Aug 26th, 2006 | 11:05 AM
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Typos? Who cares? Please. Thanks so much for your descriptive, thoughtful answers.
Yeah, I'm wary of the tourist situation in Taormina but there's not much in the way of lodging up above in Castelmola. Stromboli's sort of our escape plan - and if we love it in Taormina despite the menus written in 5 languages, etc., then we'll just stay. Though I don't really want to miss Stromboli.
So now you make Ortygia sound great. I think I'm just as torn, though I know we'll probably love either place.
My fear is, whichever one ends up the daytrip will leave us feeling frustrated we weren't staying. That's the way it goes, I guess.
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Old Aug 26th, 2006 | 11:36 AM
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I would much sooner stay in Ortyigia than Taormina. Ortigia just has more to discover, I think. However, as a base for daytripping, both leave a lot to be desired in terms of getting in and out and finding parking upon your return.

Are you going during beach weather? Like I said, people over on the Slow Travel website might have other recommendations for places to stay along the coast.
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Old Aug 26th, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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We have daytripped from Taormina to Ortigia this June. No problem at all in finding parking space. There's a huge parking lot at 2 min. walk from the Apollo Temple. Various monuments were under restoration but it still is a very lovely baroque city.

Do visit also Noto. It's also undergoing thorough restoration but it's THE place to be if you love baroque style. Parking here is somewhat more difficult 'cause you will always have to walk up a lot of stairs to get to the upper part of the city. Anyway, this is not a good reason to skip Noto!
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/1eac1/23f02/

Furthermore, I don't think you can compare Taormina with Ortigia. Taormina is much more lively and tourist oriented while Ortigia is quiet and sober. So it all depends on what you like.
MyriamC is offline  
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