I posted last week about potentially splitting our time between Sicily and Puglia, but there turned out to be some logistical challenges to that which lead us to re-consider, so now the plan is to spend all of our time in Sicily. We will leave September 30 and return October 17, so will have 16 nights on the island.

Have lots of research to do on which areas to stay in. I've heard before that Sicily doesn't easily lend itself to seeing many points of interest from a home base. We'd like to limit ourselves to no more than 4 different bases. Assuming one would be Palermo, and another one on the east coast ... possibly Ortygia ... would be interested in the Fodor's Community's thoughts on what areas we could focus on. We are not looking to sit on the beach anywhere, but relaxation is a big part of our travel ... nice towns, good local, casual restaurants for long lunches and dinners are important. We typically want to visit just one major site of interest per day - a museum, something of historical interest, natural site, etc.

So for now, I'm primarily interested in lining up our travel sequence within Sicily, would appreciate feedback.

I think focusing on Sicily, rather than trying to combine it with Puglia, makes a LOT of sense!

With 16 nights, you can see many (but not all) of Sicily's highlights; limiting yourselves to 4 bases, while understandable, also limits what you can conveniently see. Palermo and Ortygia are the 2 most obvious bases; beyond that, you would need to make some decisions about your priorities. For example, it's a bit late in the year for the Aeolians, but if you want to include them, you would presumably want a base there. If Greek ruins are a priority, somewhere in or near Agrigento would make sense -- but then you need to think about how much driving you are willing to do for your day trips, as it isn't particularly convenient to many other places. If the far west of the island is of interest, you might want to look at Trapani. If you want to spend time in the Baroque towns of the Valle di Noto, then maybe Ragusa or Modica or Caltigirone....

If you haven't already consulted it, I strongly recommend the Rough Guide for Sicily.

Thanks kja. Not really planning on the Aeolians. The Valle di Noto would definitely be in the running for base. Also, I saw on a map the I pulled up on line that many of the nicest and best wineries are in the far western corner - if that is so, we could probably be persuaded.

Any other thoughts from the Sicily experts?

First of all, I am very honored that you were considering Sicily and Puglia - they are my heritage. But you are very wise to focus on just Sicily for 2 weeks.

I think Palermo and Ortigia are good bases for the NW and SE and there is plenty to see and do in and around both places. If you are driving, bear in mind that you will not be able to park in Ortigia and will have to leave your car in Siracusa, just over the bridge. There was a time when I would have suggested Taormina as a base in the NE, but having returned there last September for the first time in about 18 years, I was saddened to see how touristy and crowded it has become. It is no longer the paradise it once was but it is still beautiful and should be seen. The area below the town, along the water, might be a possible base - Giardini-Naxos. From that area you can, and should, go to Mt. Etna, also Agrigento and Piazza Armerina. There are some picturesque small towns, such as Forza d'Agro, nearby.

For the west, Trapani is convenient for the Egadi Islands, Marsala, the salt pans, Selinunte. If you prefer to stay outside the city, as I do, there are many lovely agriturismi in the area between Castelvetrano and Marinella di Selinunte, about an hour's drive from Trapani. I stayed there last September and from there you can visit all the places I mentioned near Trapani, as well as the beautiful temples at Selinunte. Segesta is easily reached from this area and also from Palermo. You could even do a long day trip to Agrigento from there.

panecott - Thanks so much for this information. My Mother's family came to the US from Foggia in Puglia, so we are paisanos. We still plan to visit that part of Italy at some point in the future.

Aside from our stay in Palermo, we do plan to have a car. I wasn't aware there was no parking in Ortigia (correctly spelled with an I or a Y? I have seen it both ways). We have tried agriturismi before, and though there is much to recommend them, we have found that we prefer staying in small towns as opposed to being in the countryside - a large factor is our desire to enjoy wine with dinner without worrying about having to drive, and though some agriturismi offer great food, we don't want to eat in the same place 3 or 4 nights in a row.

phillyboy,

Don't worry about not being able to park ON Ortigia. It's such a small island and so walkable that there is no reason to drive. Park your car in the large public lot right next to the bridge. If you have luggage that would be difficult to get to your lodging, just take a taxi. Easy.

I can highly recommend B&B La Via della Guidecca. Lovely building, some rooms with kitchens, excellent management. My room is shown on their web site. It was the size of an apartment, just without a kitchen. Three sets of French doors opened on to the tiny church piazza in front.

My understanding is that Ortigia is the Sicilian spelling.