We are real Italianophiles- go as often as possible and we loved Sicily. It has an edge that's lacking in other parts of Italy with the possible exception of Naples. We stayed in Palermo, Cefalu, Erice, Agrigento and Siracusa. All different and charming in their own ways. Go to the Roman villa at Piazza Armerino, the Greek temples at Agrigento and the one at Segesta, and enjoy the lovely seaside town of Cefalu. There's so much to see and do & the food and wine are great too.

No, Mimar, it's a ruins with mosaics or frescos showing athletes. Thanks, though. I'll get my notes. Monreale I shall never forget!

It's the Casale Reale near Piazza Armerina.

As I mentioned before a car is a must. Leave it outside Messina or Palermo but drive into the villages. Driving is very easy. We have driven around and through all of Sicily with no problems except for the occational traffic jam of a herd of sheep or goats in the road.

The market in Catania is not to be missed.

"I'm a confident driver, and I have a good navigator next to me. Maybe that makes the difference?"

Nope - I'm a VERY confident driver with a crap navigator - I am always capable of a handbrake turn just as I get the "oh that was the junction we should have taken"

Problem was the apes driving around us.

Willit - experienced a classic - that autostrada between Catania and Siracusa was subject to a large local diversion down a single lane road. Now this really pissed the locals off as the tailback was 1.5 hours. Only it wasn't for some bright sparks - at one stage we were trundling along in the queue whilst being overtaken on both the INSIDE and outside - those on the inside were in the ditch/field, those on the outside simply drove on the wrong side of the road which caused 40 foot trucks which were coming the other way scream to a halt.

Funny thing out of all this - no one (other than me) actually pipped as a rebuke only as a "I am here" warning. It's as if the mafioso lawless way of life applies to the roads and those who show the most intiative without getting killed earn the mosr respect.

Incidently, don't forget that most of the gushing about the island applies to the Sicily of pre 1850. Most of the social and architecture fabric of the island since then has been very very ugly.

Thank you Caroline! Taking a bus is possible but more time-consuming.

I can vouch for the post below re: Taormina, Sicily. Absolutely gorgeous..it's like a fairytale..A must see...the only other city I was in in Sicily (father's family from there) was Messina..the port city..it was ok..but Taormina,breathtaking as I mentioned...

I think if you go on youtube..it has videos...

lily, I agree with above posters - GO!

To get in the mood you may want to read the quintessential novel of Sicily - THE LEOPARD by di Lampedusa.

Enjoy!

Yes, TDudette, as Caroline says, the Villa Romana at Casale, near Piazza Armerina. Both the villa and Monreale are worth a journey per the Michelin guide.

Sicily is one of the most exciting places we've been to recently, it's like Italy used to be before it was so thoroughly "discovered" by hordes of tourists, including me, I know. While a car is convenient, we went everywhere by public transport and our richest people-watching was on buses and trains - schoolkids, old women and men (who really do kiss each other on the cheeks, just like the films.) The food is wonderful, really the best in Italy, but then I do like fish and vegs.

Lily,

I visited Sicily just this September (09.) Like you, I had read the many negative reports on driving there. Reports be damned, myself and a friend decided to rent an auto and see the island close up.

First let me state that the trip (5 days) was trouble free. We had a wonderful visit.
The natural beauty of Sicily is amazing.

Second, if you plan on driving I advise two things: One, get yourself a good set of road maps. I made out the itinerary before leaving home and used google maps that I printed up as reference. That worked out just fine. Two: Make certain you have a navigator that can read maps and has familiarized themselves with Italian road signs and Italian road "habits."

Driving in the lager cities does get hectic but you need to remember to "go with the flow" and you will be alright. Read up a bit on road signs and freeway (autostrada) do's and don'ts and you will have the time of your life in beautiful Sicily. Goda!

I thought I would update this post as my husband and I did travel to Sicily for 2 weeks last month. And we absolutely loved it - from Taormina to Ortegia to Cefalu. Unfortunatley we didn't get to Palermo as planned because we were enjoying ourselves so much elsewhere.

Some highlights - a cooking lesson at Licchio's restaurant in Taormina; an evening with a violin virtuoso at the Greek Theatre in Taormina; the antiquities in Syracuse; Fontaine Blanche beach outside of Syracuse with a wood burning pizza oven at the snackbar; La Corte degli Angeli Bed and Breakfast in Ortegia; our house in San Ambrogia outside of Cefalu; the food, the wine, and the people, and more and more.

We did drive, and although the scooters are very annoying and really own the road in any of the towns, it really wasn't so bad.

On our way home, we spent one night in Rome. I loved Rome when we first visited in 2005 but this time I found it overrun with tourists. The contrast between Sicily and Rome was astounding although, to be fair, the cities and towns we visited in Sicily are much smaller than Rome.

Thanks to you all for your encouragement to go to Sicily. It may be our favorite place in Europe now although our friends say we have said about every European country after each of our trips to Europe!

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for letting us know.

Thanks for the follow up Lily - and I am so glad you enjoyed the trip!

Cyn

Super, Lily! Sounded wonderful.

I'm so happy you rented a car. Everyone is different in their opinions, but I really don't understand what problems people have with driving in Sicily. Why go by a bus or train schedule when you can be on your way and stop in little places or road stands on your way?

Sicily is Italy 40 years ago before the tourists ruined it!


Realizing that you have already done your trip but:

Leaving next week for my 4th trip to Sicily driving with my 25 year old daughter who studied abroad in Ortigia/Siracusa for a semester 4 years ago.One will never regret their trip to Sicily with the wonderful scenery,food,people and history.

Sicily is unique. If you are looking for something authentic, Sicily is for you. If you expect more of the same, Sicily is not for you. Already most of the comments in this thread do the job. Enjoy if you decide to go.

Thanks for the follow up Lily, we've never been yet but it is on my bucket list.

I lived in Sicily for a over a year and I can tell you that no its not like northern Italy, its completely backwards. lol. But thats what makes part of Sicily charming. Its an incredible place to visit and you will be delighted with an incredible amt of history. I would say def go for it, make sure you plan your meals ahead of time because places close for Siesta so you will be out of luck. you could pick any part of the island and have a great trip. i could give you some suggestions if you need them just give me a shout out

-marcello
http://www.wanderingtrader.com