Sicily - having second thoughts, please comment.
Nov 4th, 2009, 11:09 AM
#21
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Lily
It may be my posts that you refer - I will not go over our experiences but for gods sake go....
Sicily is a destination that rattles your senses and maybe after the time we have had recently that's just what we weren't looking for - we have two weeks booked in the Bahamas in February - retrospectively we should have taken that trip now.
After being back a week we are sure that if the stars align and too many individual experiences start to spiral down its possible to have a bad time anywhere. I think after seeing most of the Med our expectations were high - in fact the highest of anywhere we had visited. The image of Sicily is everything we love in life add the spice of its dark side and this should have been a dream trip. I think we spent our week comparing Sicily to other places and maybe that was very unfair. I also think too many logistical issues got in the way.
Ironically we indirectly started a heated arguement between two other couples on the connecting flight back from Milan to Manchester. We mentioned our experiences in Sicily to a couple who then bemoaned Amalfi as being "a dump". A second couple heard this and so the discussion went on and on....
Personally, I love Tuscany but refuse to go within 20 miles of Florence.
A lot of southern european destinations rely on 30oC to carry their beauty. In a cloudy 16oC October it just isn't the same.
We will spend time in future on the west of Sicily most definitely when the weather is better.
It may be my posts that you refer - I will not go over our experiences but for gods sake go....
Sicily is a destination that rattles your senses and maybe after the time we have had recently that's just what we weren't looking for - we have two weeks booked in the Bahamas in February - retrospectively we should have taken that trip now.
After being back a week we are sure that if the stars align and too many individual experiences start to spiral down its possible to have a bad time anywhere. I think after seeing most of the Med our expectations were high - in fact the highest of anywhere we had visited. The image of Sicily is everything we love in life add the spice of its dark side and this should have been a dream trip. I think we spent our week comparing Sicily to other places and maybe that was very unfair. I also think too many logistical issues got in the way.
Ironically we indirectly started a heated arguement between two other couples on the connecting flight back from Milan to Manchester. We mentioned our experiences in Sicily to a couple who then bemoaned Amalfi as being "a dump". A second couple heard this and so the discussion went on and on....
Personally, I love Tuscany but refuse to go within 20 miles of Florence.
A lot of southern european destinations rely on 30oC to carry their beauty. In a cloudy 16oC October it just isn't the same.
We will spend time in future on the west of Sicily most definitely when the weather is better.
Nov 4th, 2009, 11:14 AM
#22
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ps talking of the connecting flight - we spent the first two days of our trip with our friends in Torino which is widely regarded as the most conservative (small c) city in Italy - this again was probably an unfair introduction to the cultural diversity of Sicily.
Nov 4th, 2009, 11:24 AM
#23
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"Renting a car is a must." While having a car can facilitate seeing parts of Sicily within a limited time frame, I disagree that it is a "must". Search this board for GAC's very helpful postings about using public transportation to tour Sicily.
Nov 4th, 2009, 12:05 PM
#24
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Chiming in here to say that we also loved Sicily. We've been in March and May--never had those 30 degree C temperatures markrosy talks about, but loved the cooler, gorgeous clear days (got a little rain, too, which we took in stride). We had a car for the 11-day March trip and found the driving to be delightful for the most part (avoid driving in Palermo, but don't avoid Palermo!). For the May trip we focused on the Aeolian Islands, which are fantastic. Other highlights: Segesta, Ortygia, Piazza Armerina, Selinunte, Scopello, Monreale, Cefalu...I could go on and on.
Your question is interesting because when I read the negative comments you mention, my first reaction was that they would likely turn someone off to traveling in Sicily, and I meant to respond but got busy and didn't. Glad you pursued the issue. I don't think you'll regret visiting Sicily--the more time the better!
Your question is interesting because when I read the negative comments you mention, my first reaction was that they would likely turn someone off to traveling in Sicily, and I meant to respond but got busy and didn't. Glad you pursued the issue. I don't think you'll regret visiting Sicily--the more time the better!
Nov 4th, 2009, 12:22 PM
#25
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"found the driving to be delightful" - I know there are many gushing comments made on this site but that does push to boundaries. You were clearly not on the same island. I can only assume that you mean the scenery was delightful whilst driving - to describe the average Sicilian's driving as delightful would suggest you work for the Sicilian Tourist Board.
Nov 4th, 2009, 12:26 PM
#26
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Also visited in March and also loved it: stayed just outside Siracusa and loved Noto and Ortigia and a suburb of Palermo where we visited family. We were living in Italy (in the Abruzzo) at the time and it is very different from mainland Italy, so even if you have seen all Italy has to offer (like that could happen!) you still will enjoy the diversity of Sicily.
Nov 4th, 2009, 01:14 PM
#27
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kja: I said driving is a must because there are many wonderful places you can't get to by train. Taking a bus and train is very restrictive in Sicily unlike the rest of Italy. Driving through the mountains, stopping in small towns and getting to some great hotels or agritourisms are impossible without a car.
Nov 4th, 2009, 01:22 PM
#28
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Monreale not to be missed. There are a couple of good churches in Palermo as well. We stayed in Palermo and Siracusa-enjoyed the both as bases for travel. The wonderful place (sorry senior moment about the name-Casal Reale???) with the mosaics CAN be reached by bus but not so easily.
DH and I loved it also but we love quirky. I often use that word for all of Italy.
DH and I loved it also but we love quirky. I often use that word for all of Italy.
Nov 4th, 2009, 02:13 PM
#29
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Ha ha, markrosy. I really did find driving in Sicily easy--well-maintained roads, little traffic, and, as you say, gorgeous scenery. Palermo, as I mentioned, was a bit of a challenge (we ended up driving in downtown Palermo by accident...after failing to find a parking garage on the outskirts), but elsewhere was just fine.
I'm a confident driver, and I have a good navigator next to me. Maybe that makes the difference?
I'm a confident driver, and I have a good navigator next to me. Maybe that makes the difference?
Nov 4th, 2009, 02:19 PM
#30
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Thanks to all of you for your wonderful comments. I originally chose Sicily for our trip to Europe next year because of the recommnedations of a large group of Dutch people we spent an evening with in Portugal in September. They were so absolutely entranced with Sicily that I thought we must go. And we will go now thanks to all of you and your thoughtful feedback.
Nov 4th, 2009, 03:34 PM
#32
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If you like wonderful contrasting scenery of mountains, azure sea, unspoilt pale-ochre villages and friedly welcoming people, it's a must! I recently visited Selinunte, Erice and Castelvetrano and had a wonderful time. You're welcome to read and see more at lifefromtheedge.blogspot.com Enjoy!
Nov 4th, 2009, 03:41 PM
#34
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We spent two weeks in western sicily for the most part it was beaufutiful, the food was good and the people nice. To us it had a different feel than Northern Italy.
I was upset about all the garbage which was on every beach we went, and in all public places including Segesta and seluninte (sp?).
Overall it was an ok trip but we would rather go somewhere else.
I was upset about all the garbage which was on every beach we went, and in all public places including Segesta and seluninte (sp?).
Overall it was an ok trip but we would rather go somewhere else.
Nov 4th, 2009, 04:24 PM
#35
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This is an interesting topic because I spent time in Palermo and the Aeolians in Sept and while I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked Palermo, I didn't care for the Aeolians. Everyone told me how amazing they would be and I've no doubt that under different circumstances I would have enjoyed them more but the few days I spent there were probably the only ones I'll ever spend.
The mosaics of Monreale were beautiful and shouldn't be missed if in Palermo. The beach at Mondello on the other hand..yuck! Another thing that was hyped to me and fell short. There are so many different areas, towns to visit in Sicily and I will be back to see those in the future.
The mosaics of Monreale were beautiful and shouldn't be missed if in Palermo. The beach at Mondello on the other hand..yuck! Another thing that was hyped to me and fell short. There are so many different areas, towns to visit in Sicily and I will be back to see those in the future.
Nov 4th, 2009, 11:57 PM
#36
aprillilacs - I am going to agree with markrosy about the driving. I have driven in many areas of Italy, and would say that the driving in Sicily is easily the worst I have experienced (and I include the outskirts of Naples in that).
Once out of the cities and on the main roads it was fine in the cities themselves, particularly Palermo, it was utter chaos
The road between Catania and Siracusa was probably the most dangerous in terms of lunatic driving that I have ever experienced (three abreast overtaking by large trucks doing >120kph in a 50 zone springs to mind).
Having said that, when I return, I will still hire a car.
Once out of the cities and on the main roads it was fine in the cities themselves, particularly Palermo, it was utter chaos
The road between Catania and Siracusa was probably the most dangerous in terms of lunatic driving that I have ever experienced (three abreast overtaking by large trucks doing >120kph in a 50 zone springs to mind).
Having said that, when I return, I will still hire a car.
Nov 5th, 2009, 03:52 AM
#37
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I love Sicily too (including Palermo), have been 3 times, including (the 2nd time) for our honeymoon. If I could only holiday in one place for the rest of my life, it would be Sicily. The only part of Sicily I wouldn't bother with again is Cefalu but lots of people love that too. DH has no problem with driving there but we did dump the car on arrival in Palermo.
Nov 5th, 2009, 04:42 AM
#38
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Having said how much we enjoyed it, I will suggest that you be careful crossing the street. Give motorcycles a chance to stop as they seemed to run the lights when cars didn't.
I have told the story of our bus trip to Agrigento: the police car blaring past us with sirens going came to a screeching halt to let an old woman and her family go slowly across the road!
I have told the story of our bus trip to Agrigento: the police car blaring past us with sirens going came to a screeching halt to let an old woman and her family go slowly across the road!
Nov 5th, 2009, 05:19 AM
#39
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Absolutely love Sicily - could never live there, but I love to visit. Don't follow the opinions of one unhappy traveller, go to see it for yourself. You will certainly not be disappointed with the scenes, sites or food in beautiful Sicily. Buon viaggio!
