Seaside Basque Country in Spain - suggestion for driving daytrips.
Mar 6th, 2008, 12:15 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Seaside Basque Country in Spain - suggestion for driving daytrips.
We will be based for a few days in Ibarrangelu, a seaside town near Guernica in Basque Spain.
Question: We're there in the middle of March, so what do you do there? Any suggestion for driving daytrips around the area?
Question: We're there in the middle of March, so what do you do there? Any suggestion for driving daytrips around the area?
Mar 6th, 2008, 09:30 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bill_boy,
I've stayed in Ibarrangelu at the Hotel Gametxo (amazing sea views!!!) and have written a bit about the Urdaibai area in my País Vasco guide (with restaurant recommendations and places to see). You can download it at
www.maribelsguides.com
If you're there on a Monday, we like going to the Gernika market (we always buy some local red beans, alubias gernikesas, to take home), and at any time, please, please don't miss Gernika's very moving Peace Museum. Very, very memorable.
Plus the Basque Museum, the Chillida sculptures in the Parque de Europa and the Casa de Juntas.
www.peacemuseumgernica.org
www.gernika-lumo.net/in_index.asp
Gernika is a great place for pintxos (Basque tapas). The bars are lively and display really nice pintxos and also great pastries. We love to dine at the creative Zallo Barri.
www.zallobarri.com
I certainly wouldn't miss a hike down to Ibarrola's Painted Forest in Kortezubi. It's quite a hike but really fascinating (poster mikelg can tell you more...)
You can also visit the Santimamiñe caves, but the gallery with the prehistoric cave paintings is closed.
And definitely take a drive east over to the tiny but charming fishing village of Elanxobe (note how the public busses have to turn around to head out of town), then on to Leiketio, much larger and really, really atmospheric.
From your base also take a drive west, first to the whaling town of Bermeo (there's a free fisherman's museum here, el Museo del Pescador), then to the shrine of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe with its 200+ steps to climb out to a promontory with fabulous views, then on to the resort town of Bakio to visit the Doniene Gorrondona txakoli vineyards outside of town (their barrel fermented Doniene white is delicious!). There's a handy tourist office in town that can show you how to reach these vineyards.
www.donienegorrondona.com
Here's the Bakio tourist page in English:
http://tinyurl.com/39vovl
The Vizcaya province tourist page:
http://tinyurl.com/2wd7yw
I'm asuming you plan to visit Bilbao before or after your stay.
I really love the Urdaibai. We visited our friends at an agroturismo, Txopebenta, last November and are headed back in July.
Enjoy your stay!
I've stayed in Ibarrangelu at the Hotel Gametxo (amazing sea views!!!) and have written a bit about the Urdaibai area in my País Vasco guide (with restaurant recommendations and places to see). You can download it at
www.maribelsguides.com
If you're there on a Monday, we like going to the Gernika market (we always buy some local red beans, alubias gernikesas, to take home), and at any time, please, please don't miss Gernika's very moving Peace Museum. Very, very memorable.
Plus the Basque Museum, the Chillida sculptures in the Parque de Europa and the Casa de Juntas.
www.peacemuseumgernica.org
www.gernika-lumo.net/in_index.asp
Gernika is a great place for pintxos (Basque tapas). The bars are lively and display really nice pintxos and also great pastries. We love to dine at the creative Zallo Barri.
www.zallobarri.com
I certainly wouldn't miss a hike down to Ibarrola's Painted Forest in Kortezubi. It's quite a hike but really fascinating (poster mikelg can tell you more...)
You can also visit the Santimamiñe caves, but the gallery with the prehistoric cave paintings is closed.
And definitely take a drive east over to the tiny but charming fishing village of Elanxobe (note how the public busses have to turn around to head out of town), then on to Leiketio, much larger and really, really atmospheric.
From your base also take a drive west, first to the whaling town of Bermeo (there's a free fisherman's museum here, el Museo del Pescador), then to the shrine of San Juan de Gaztelugatxe with its 200+ steps to climb out to a promontory with fabulous views, then on to the resort town of Bakio to visit the Doniene Gorrondona txakoli vineyards outside of town (their barrel fermented Doniene white is delicious!). There's a handy tourist office in town that can show you how to reach these vineyards.
www.donienegorrondona.com
Here's the Bakio tourist page in English:
http://tinyurl.com/39vovl
The Vizcaya province tourist page:
http://tinyurl.com/2wd7yw
I'm asuming you plan to visit Bilbao before or after your stay.
I really love the Urdaibai. We visited our friends at an agroturismo, Txopebenta, last November and are headed back in July.
Enjoy your stay!
Mar 6th, 2008, 01:14 PM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you so much Maribel. Lot's of of good information in the links that you provided. I've downloaded your Pais Vasco guide and it's a helpful travel guide ot the area. I see that you have recommendations for San Sebastian, Hondarribia (spending a couple nights there) and Bilbao (for our last 2 nights). I'll have to get to the office to print your guide - there's quite a lot of pages but it's worth it.
It's encouraging to know that Gametxo is a good choice, because that's where we will be staying at.
The Painted Forest at Kortezubi sounds very interesting. I'll look it up.
Lot's of pintxos and pastries at Gernika? Yes! Food and drinks are a couple of our primary resons for travelling.
Thanks.
It's encouraging to know that Gametxo is a good choice, because that's where we will be staying at.
The Painted Forest at Kortezubi sounds very interesting. I'll look it up.
Lot's of pintxos and pastries at Gernika? Yes! Food and drinks are a couple of our primary resons for travelling.
Thanks.
Mar 6th, 2008, 02:26 PM
#4
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,818
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bill Boy:
I have 6 words for you.....
"do not miss the Painted Forest"
The Bosque Pintado is an awesome, unique, slightly weird sight to see. The ride up the mountain is gravel and potholed...at the top there is a place to park only a few cars...then it's a hike downward into the core of the forest...photo ops galore. It's very close to Gernika.
Ibarrola touches it up every few years. We were there just after one of these makeovers...bright blues, reds, yellows, etc.
Stu T.
I have 6 words for you.....
"do not miss the Painted Forest"
The Bosque Pintado is an awesome, unique, slightly weird sight to see. The ride up the mountain is gravel and potholed...at the top there is a place to park only a few cars...then it's a hike downward into the core of the forest...photo ops galore. It's very close to Gernika.
Ibarrola touches it up every few years. We were there just after one of these makeovers...bright blues, reds, yellows, etc.
Stu T.
Mar 6th, 2008, 04:38 PM
#5
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bill_boy,
Make sure you get one of the sea view rooms at the Gametxo with sit out balcony. The views from our little balcony were just fantastic!!
For a really nice meal with sea views and charming Basque farmhouse decor, we really enjoy Eneperi between Bermeo and Bakio. If you go on a weekend, you should have the nice couple who run the Gametxo reserve a table for you, because it gets very crowded.
www.eneperi.com
Joshe Mari, that I recommend in Bakio, has closed.
Make sure you get one of the sea view rooms at the Gametxo with sit out balcony. The views from our little balcony were just fantastic!!
For a really nice meal with sea views and charming Basque farmhouse decor, we really enjoy Eneperi between Bermeo and Bakio. If you go on a weekend, you should have the nice couple who run the Gametxo reserve a table for you, because it gets very crowded.
www.eneperi.com
Joshe Mari, that I recommend in Bakio, has closed.
Mar 6th, 2008, 10:09 PM
#6
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stick to Maribelīs advice and youīll make the most of your visit. Of course, donīt miss the Painted Forest of Oma, had it been in the US it would be now a major attraction---but we kind of like to keep things unspoilt over here.
Gametxo is a beautiful place to stay, I spent several summers in my childhood in the tiny town of Akorda, very close by. Youīll need the car to move around, for sure.
Donīt forget to visit Mundaka, in the Urdaibai, a Unesco Protected Natural Space, awesome views. Itīs very close to Ibarrangelu.
Gametxo is a beautiful place to stay, I spent several summers in my childhood in the tiny town of Akorda, very close by. Youīll need the car to move around, for sure.
Donīt forget to visit Mundaka, in the Urdaibai, a Unesco Protected Natural Space, awesome views. Itīs very close to Ibarrangelu.
Mar 7th, 2008, 07:51 AM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great suggestions, everybody. Thank you.
Eneperi looks good. Ill see if we can consider it, as were already reserved for a few, shall we say, Michelin-star type places that may be in the same cuisine-type and which we would not want to overdo. Were doing Mugaritz, Akelarre, Etxeberri and Arzak (which we may end up dropping as we only want to do 3). I hope we made good choices.
Ill have to let my wife know that Im being set up with high expectations with her Gametxo choice. Well email a request for a sea-view room.
Based on the overwhelming recommendation for the Painted Forest, its in the plan.
Now, on to Hondarribia. I saw Iketxe in Maribels guide. Lo and behold, the wife also booked this one for us for 3 nights. I guess my wife is on a roll. Were planning on a daytrip to Pays Basque for a winery visit and a nice lunch. Im looking into St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Suggestions on a winery visit and a lunch?
Eneperi looks good. Ill see if we can consider it, as were already reserved for a few, shall we say, Michelin-star type places that may be in the same cuisine-type and which we would not want to overdo. Were doing Mugaritz, Akelarre, Etxeberri and Arzak (which we may end up dropping as we only want to do 3). I hope we made good choices.
Ill have to let my wife know that Im being set up with high expectations with her Gametxo choice. Well email a request for a sea-view room.
Based on the overwhelming recommendation for the Painted Forest, its in the plan.
Now, on to Hondarribia. I saw Iketxe in Maribels guide. Lo and behold, the wife also booked this one for us for 3 nights. I guess my wife is on a roll. Were planning on a daytrip to Pays Basque for a winery visit and a nice lunch. Im looking into St-Jean-Pied-de-Port. Suggestions on a winery visit and a lunch?
Mar 7th, 2008, 08:32 AM
#8
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bill_boy,
Your Michelin star places are all fabulous-I've dined in all. The least exciting for me is Arzak.
Mugaritz I find incredibly imaginative, Akelarre has a fabulous setting (I would go for lunch to enjoy the sea views) and the chef at Etxebarri is simply a genious at the grill. I would also go to Etxebarri for lunch, as it's hard to find your way in and out of tiny Axpe at night if you're not familiar with the roads.
If you look in my Pays Basque guide (separate from the Pais Vasco one), you'll see winery recommendations for St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, St. Etienne de Baigorry and tiny Irouleguy.
I certainly would not miss the wine cooperative in St. Etienne de Baigorry (Les Vignerons du Pays Basque) so that you can sample from many of these tiny Irouleguy A.O.C. vineyards. My favorite is the Domaine de Mignaberry red. And you can buy a pretty ceramic wine cooler there from the Goicoechea potters. It's a must stop. (Open Mon.-Sat. in March.)
I would also visit the Domaine Brana in St. Jean Pied de Port for their wines and also their eau de vie and fruit liqueurs. There is a D.B. shop in town plus two shops outside of town at the vineyards. Just follow the signs.
And if you go to St. Jean Pied de Port on Monday, make sure to visit the market, as the vintners all have stands there, and you can sample to your heart's content.
In the Michelin star category, Les Pyrenees in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port would be "the one", but your itinerary is already heavy on Michelin stars.
We love the cuisine and the wonderful secluded setting by the river Nive of the dining room at the family run Hotel Arce in St. Etienne de Baigorry. Just charming. A special place. The hotel is next to the church.
We'll be staying with Patxi and Fátima at the Iketxe in late June.
We love Hondarribia. And for great pintxos there, you must, must head straight to Gran Sol (they've won many pintxos competitions). You'll find it in the fishing quarter on Calle San Pedro. But get there early (at 7:30 when the kitchen opens), as it can get really crowded, especially on weekends.
Gran Sol makes creative pintxos equal to those you'll find in San Sebastián's Old Quarter (Parte Vieja) at La cuchara de San Telmo (another don't miss) and A Fuego Negro.
Happy wining and dining!
Your Michelin star places are all fabulous-I've dined in all. The least exciting for me is Arzak.
Mugaritz I find incredibly imaginative, Akelarre has a fabulous setting (I would go for lunch to enjoy the sea views) and the chef at Etxebarri is simply a genious at the grill. I would also go to Etxebarri for lunch, as it's hard to find your way in and out of tiny Axpe at night if you're not familiar with the roads.
If you look in my Pays Basque guide (separate from the Pais Vasco one), you'll see winery recommendations for St. Jean-Pied-de-Port, St. Etienne de Baigorry and tiny Irouleguy.
I certainly would not miss the wine cooperative in St. Etienne de Baigorry (Les Vignerons du Pays Basque) so that you can sample from many of these tiny Irouleguy A.O.C. vineyards. My favorite is the Domaine de Mignaberry red. And you can buy a pretty ceramic wine cooler there from the Goicoechea potters. It's a must stop. (Open Mon.-Sat. in March.)
I would also visit the Domaine Brana in St. Jean Pied de Port for their wines and also their eau de vie and fruit liqueurs. There is a D.B. shop in town plus two shops outside of town at the vineyards. Just follow the signs.
And if you go to St. Jean Pied de Port on Monday, make sure to visit the market, as the vintners all have stands there, and you can sample to your heart's content.
In the Michelin star category, Les Pyrenees in St. Jean-Pied-de-Port would be "the one", but your itinerary is already heavy on Michelin stars.
We love the cuisine and the wonderful secluded setting by the river Nive of the dining room at the family run Hotel Arce in St. Etienne de Baigorry. Just charming. A special place. The hotel is next to the church.
We'll be staying with Patxi and Fátima at the Iketxe in late June.
We love Hondarribia. And for great pintxos there, you must, must head straight to Gran Sol (they've won many pintxos competitions). You'll find it in the fishing quarter on Calle San Pedro. But get there early (at 7:30 when the kitchen opens), as it can get really crowded, especially on weekends.
Gran Sol makes creative pintxos equal to those you'll find in San Sebastián's Old Quarter (Parte Vieja) at La cuchara de San Telmo (another don't miss) and A Fuego Negro.
Happy wining and dining!
Mar 7th, 2008, 09:33 AM
#9
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bill_boy,
A few more thoughts...
As I mentioned above, I would head straight to the cooperative in St. Etienne de Baigorry for wine tasting. Just look for the signs "La Cave Coopérative d'Irouleguy" as you enter the town, to your left.
Another vineyard to look for on your way in is Domaine Etxegaraya, open daily from 10-12:30 and 2-7:30.
And since you are "foodies", I wouldn't miss an opportunity to buy a little "gâteau basque" dessert at the patisserie Barbier-Millox on 17 rue d'Espagne (the main shopping street behind the main drag) in St. Jean Pied de Port.
The foremost food critic of Spain calls their version "the king of the Basque gâteau".
If you drive down to this area on the D 932-D918 (La Route Gourmande), you can stop to buy red pepper powder and condiments, the famous "Piment d'Espelette", at the Bipia factory right on the highway (left side going down) at Larressore.
They sell this amazing red pepper powder in small amounts (you only need a tiny bit to spice up a roast, stew or eggs)-in jars and in cryovac packages that are easy to carry.
And the charming red and white, pepper town of Espelette, just off the highway, is also worth a stop for the photo ops and its chocolates at Chocolats Antton.
A few more thoughts...
As I mentioned above, I would head straight to the cooperative in St. Etienne de Baigorry for wine tasting. Just look for the signs "La Cave Coopérative d'Irouleguy" as you enter the town, to your left.
Another vineyard to look for on your way in is Domaine Etxegaraya, open daily from 10-12:30 and 2-7:30.
And since you are "foodies", I wouldn't miss an opportunity to buy a little "gâteau basque" dessert at the patisserie Barbier-Millox on 17 rue d'Espagne (the main shopping street behind the main drag) in St. Jean Pied de Port.
The foremost food critic of Spain calls their version "the king of the Basque gâteau".
If you drive down to this area on the D 932-D918 (La Route Gourmande), you can stop to buy red pepper powder and condiments, the famous "Piment d'Espelette", at the Bipia factory right on the highway (left side going down) at Larressore.
They sell this amazing red pepper powder in small amounts (you only need a tiny bit to spice up a roast, stew or eggs)-in jars and in cryovac packages that are easy to carry.
And the charming red and white, pepper town of Espelette, just off the highway, is also worth a stop for the photo ops and its chocolates at Chocolats Antton.
Mar 11th, 2008, 06:11 AM
#10
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Maribel,
I read up on your Pays Basque report and that cooperative at St. Etienne de Baigorry looks very interesting and well have to see how we can include this, but at this point we may just play it by ear and concentrate on St. Jean Pied de Port and plan on going there on a Monday instead of Tuesday. Looking forward to sampling some gateau basque at Barbier Millox.
I read about fronton being all over the place. I hope that these are for Cesta Punta. I hope I can squeeze in a short game as my cousins and I were sort-of trained when we were younger.
We will be doing pintxos walk at San Sebastian on Tuesday. La Cuchara de San Telmo is included in the plan. Thanks for the enablement.
I read up on your Pays Basque report and that cooperative at St. Etienne de Baigorry looks very interesting and well have to see how we can include this, but at this point we may just play it by ear and concentrate on St. Jean Pied de Port and plan on going there on a Monday instead of Tuesday. Looking forward to sampling some gateau basque at Barbier Millox.
I read about fronton being all over the place. I hope that these are for Cesta Punta. I hope I can squeeze in a short game as my cousins and I were sort-of trained when we were younger.
We will be doing pintxos walk at San Sebastian on Tuesday. La Cuchara de San Telmo is included in the plan. Thanks for the enablement.
Mar 12th, 2008, 07:37 PM
#11
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bill_boy,
Gernika has a big frontón. Don't know about the schedule but your hosts at Gametxo can tell you.
If you can do St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port on Monday, please do!!! The market brings the very best purveyors in the inland Pays Basque to you. You don't have to go seek them out-they come to you-so easy, and fun.
And you can easily combine the market and Irouleguy sampling at the cooperative in St. Etienne de Baigorry, a town next door. We did this easily last summer.
Gernika has a big frontón. Don't know about the schedule but your hosts at Gametxo can tell you.
If you can do St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port on Monday, please do!!! The market brings the very best purveyors in the inland Pays Basque to you. You don't have to go seek them out-they come to you-so easy, and fun.
And you can easily combine the market and Irouleguy sampling at the cooperative in St. Etienne de Baigorry, a town next door. We did this easily last summer.
Mar 14th, 2008, 10:23 PM
#12
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,087
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We're currently in Ibarrangelu. The sea view from our room French-door balcony at Gametxo Hotel is stunning! Their free wireless Internet connetion is a godsend especially as I decided to bring my laptop to do on-the-fly research.
Zallo Barri restaurant at Gernika easily proved to be a very good dining decision,
I'll post thoughts and report later.
Zallo Barri restaurant at Gernika easily proved to be a very good dining decision,
I'll post thoughts and report later.
Mar 15th, 2008, 01:50 AM
#14
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,681
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you have the chance, donīt miss the opportunity to visit the Bosque Pintado in Oma and eat at Baserri Maitea (www.baserrimaitea.com) or www.castillodearteaga.com. Stunning area.
Mar 15th, 2008, 09:54 AM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 7,817
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
bill_boy,
I know you have an ambitious dining list with all those Michelin stars, but the two recommendations mikel just gave you are superb!!
One in a castle/hotel with woman chef, the other in a charmingly decorated Basque farmhouse, just north of Gernika. Both are part of the same group. If you can fit them in...
I know you have an ambitious dining list with all those Michelin stars, but the two recommendations mikel just gave you are superb!!
One in a castle/hotel with woman chef, the other in a charmingly decorated Basque farmhouse, just north of Gernika. Both are part of the same group. If you can fit them in...
