Two of us are planning a brief visit (about 5-6 days) to the Basque region prior to our week at a rental house in Domme. At this early stage, it looks like we will fly from the US-CDG-Biarittz. Our first overnight will be Bayonne, so my first question is: How much time to allot here? My friend would like to visit a chocolate maker so that is the primary reason for the visit. Any recommended hotels in Bayonne? The first night we will be recovering from trans-Atlantic flight so we might need to spend two nights here. Lots to see? Interesting outdoor markets? Chocolate related places of interest? Or would we be better off limiting it to one night and take off the following afternoon for San Sebastian?

From Bayonne we will go south to Spain, probably by public transport...have received great advice on this forum so far on trains.

We will spend 2-3-4(?) nights in San Sebastian. I have been here before but it has been a long time. Would like to be centrally located: (Hotel Niza? La Galeria?) I am also thinking Hondarrabia but am wondering if it is better to visit this town from San Sebastian or to actually lodge here for one or two nights and if so, hotel recs are welcome. (Parador, Pampinot, Obispo?) I do have great Maribel's guide so will read this once again for its wonderful info but thought I would ask here as well.

I have been to the inland Pays Basque (St. Jean and around) so will not be visiting that area this time. And I think we will give Bilbao a miss this time. I am limiting the overnight stops since we would probably be better off with day trips, if any, rather than changing hotels too often without a car. Is this a mistake? Is there a town we should spend a day/night in without detouring too far off the train route? I should say that this will not be the last time (I hope) that I will visit this part of Spain so do not need to cover everything this trip.

From San Sebastian or Hondarrabia we will make our way by train to (Sarlat, Perigeaux?) and pick up the car and drive to Les Rosiers in Domme, spend a week there, and then train to Paris for 5-6 days.

Thanks for any and all advice.

Hi ekscrunchy,
I hope you find my guide helpful.

I would actually stay in beautiful seaside Biarritz for two nights and take the bus to Bayonne for the day. Yes, Bayonne has a more authentic Basque flavor to it, but I don't find it overall as beguiling a place to overnight as Biarritz with its gorgeous beaches, nice shopping, beautiful walk up to the lighthouse, its pretty gardens and ocean promenade. Plus there's the best tapas bar, Bar Jean, across from the indoor market, which is THE place to hang out at night! Just great!

In my file, I have a number of Biarritz hotel recs from the very nice Eduourd VII where we stay near the market to new B&Bs, such as the lovely chambres d'hote Maison Arrokenia, with designer decorated rooms featured in fashion magazines and the cute 3 star Hotel Clos Fontaine recommended to us by a Biarritz friend in the Pays Basque business, who puts up clients there.

What we enjoy doing in Bayonne is the following:

sipping delicious hot chocolate in the tea room or terrace of one of the famous chocolate makers on the rue Port-Neuf, either Cazenave or Darantz (they're next to each other at 15 and 19)

shopping for chocolate, Irouleguy wines and other Basque products on the rue d'Espagne at Saveurs et Chocolat (#66) and Pierre Oteiza (#68)

strolling through les Halles, the covered market facing the river in a.m. and buying an incredibly delicious gateau basque at the stand of the Moulin de Bassilour or Arraya.

a visit to the Cathedrale Sainte Marie, a staging area for pilgrims on the road to Santiago. Might catch an organ concert there in summer

In the very proud, nationalistic Basque quarter of le Petit Bayonne, visiting the Musee Bonnat fine arts museum (but closed Tues.) www.musee-bonnat.com
and also the wonderful Musee Basque,one of the finest ethnographic museum I've visited. Really well done. If you do one Bayonne museum, please visit this one, as it will give you such a better understanding of the Basque culture and way of life. www.musee-basque.com

Shopping for espadrilles at the sandalier "Pare Gabia" on the rue Pannecau 12 in Petit Bayonne

sampling the Bayonne ham at the shop of Pierre Ibaialde on rue des Cordeliers 41

A gourmet (but quite affordable) lunch at the terrific Michelin starred Auberge du Cheval Blanc in Petit Bayonne is always a highlight.

But again, I would overnight in Biarritz and do a day trip by bus to Bayonne.

In San Sebastían, I would keep your reservations at the Niza rather than La Galeria. It's more centrally located with virtually everything walkable. I really like the atmosphere and the stafff plus the fair prices at the Niza.

We are renting a farmhouse in Hondarribia for 2 weeks in July and usually use it as our base every summer. The parador has gone up in price considerably, now 190 euros for a standard room. The Obispo I like much more than the Pampinot. BUT... for you, without a car, I suggest you stay in Sanse, enjoy the lively nightlife and bus to Hondarribia for the day.
And don't forget to sample the great pintxos bars in La Marina quarter there as well-Gran Sol (just won another pintxos competition award) and Enbata are our 2 favorites.

For only a short stay of 5-6 days, I would limit my time to Biarritz and San Sebastián the two seaside jewels in the Basque Country crown (not that we don't love cova and mikelg's Bilbao plus short bus excursions you can make from those 2 cities.

You're going to my favorite area of Northern Spain! Have a great time. But I also loved my week outside of Sarlat in the Dordogne two summers ago and am dying to return.

Maribel, I cannot express how grateful I am to you for all of your help. I just returned from 2 nights in Room 22 of Hosteria Santo Domingo in Pedraza, which I found thanks to your amazing guide. Fabulous! I will write a report soon.
I will reserve at Niza in Sanse and let my friend know your advice on Bayonne/Biarritz. And when I get a bit more time, I will also return here, undoubtedly with more questions but for now I just want to say thank you!

ekscrunchy,
I am SO glad you stayed at the Hostería de Santo Domingo! We love it!! The girls who run it couldn't have been nicer to us, and our room with terrace was so comfy and relaxing. I loved sitting out on our balcony with a glass of wine watching the storks build their nest. It's so peaceful. We try to make it our last stop (sighĄ) before heading back to Barajas -just to wind down and soak up the beauty of this charming, picture-perfect village.
Lucky you! I'm envious.
Have a great time!

Dear Maribel, Once again, thank you for all of your help, both with this upcoming trip and all of the well-written and most helpful info on Segovia/Pedraza in your guide.

I have done a bit of investigating. The Hotel Eduourd VII in Biarritz looks ideal, but I must present this to my traveling companion, who may still be set on staying in Bayonne instead, mainly due to the choclatiers in that city, which she would like to visit for a possible project. That city does sounds fascinating with much to do and see and, especially, to taste, judging from your comments. So, before I present my case to her for staying in Biarritz based on your advice, I have a few questions:

1. If we stay in Biarritz, how easy is the bus trip to Bayonne? Only 15 minutes or so will take us from centre to centre?

2. The hotels in Bayonne do not seem as tempting as those in Biarritz. But do you have one in mind in case we decide to stay in Bayonnes?
Moderate price range, maybe under 120E double if possible in mid-October?

And here is one more two-part question that might sway us either way:

We will be arriving at Biarritz airport and departing by train for San Sebastian. Which location has easier access to the airport and to trains for the trip to Spain?

Mil gracias, once again.

Hi ekscrunchy,
If your friend wanted specifically to attend the "Bayonne Chocolate Days" next week or feria, July 30-Aug. 3. I would say stay in Bayonne but at other times, such as Oct., I'd urge you to use stunning Biarritz as your base.
As for arriving at BAB airport and leaving on train to S.S., I would say it's just as easy from Biarritz. You'll have to switch in Hendaye anyway to get to S.S. as posters have told you on the other thread.

Please tell your friend that they are GREAT chocolatiers in Biarritz as well, even a Chocolate Museum.
www.museeduchocolat.com
Open 10-12, 2:30-6 Mon.-Sat

There are 3 wonderful, historical Biarritz purveyors:
Dodin on 7 rue Gambetta which sells yummy choclate mousee truffles and chocolate mousee with genoise

Daranatz (also in Bayonne) at 12 Marechal Foch

Maison Paries on 1 place Bellevue, family run since 1895 and home of the famous caramel Kanougas

L'Atelier du Chocoate-Henriet on Place Georges Clemenceau, which has a boutique and workshop, which can be toured by prior reservation (groupos of 10) from 9-12:45
email at [email protected]

Bayonne is very close to Biarritz. In fact the Bayonne-Anglet-Biarritz axis is like one big metropolitan area. The STAB busses take you back and forth. Tickets cost 1.15 euros, or you can get a 24 hr. pass for 4 euros.
www.bus-stab.com

But if your friend's heart is set on staying in Bayonne, the most central place to be is the Best Western Grand Hotel right at the River Ardour. Couldn't have a better location-a stone's throw from the chocolate shops of the Port Neuf and the cathedral.
www.bw-legrandhotel.com
When we drive in, we park at the Place de Gaulle right in front of the hotel.

Here are some webs to help you plan your trip.
www.bayonne-tourisme.com
www.biarritz.fr
www.tourisme64.com
www.basquexplorer.com

Hope this helps!

Me again,
On your other transportation thread, did anyone mention that you can also take a PESA bus from Biarritz to Sanse?
(I go on Pesa from Bilbao to Sanse, and it's comfortable and very easy)

Bus leaves Biarritz at 12:15 (or from Bayonne at 12) and arrives in Sanse at 2.
Stops in St. Jean, Hendaye and Irún.

www.pesa.net

Sorry to butt into this thread but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to ask Maribel:

Any recommendations or suggestions to eat or drink in San Sebastian (that you didn't mention in your guide?)

We'll be there for the first time for a long weekend in June (staying at hotel niza)and have read your guide to the city. Just wondered if any new recommendations have popped up recently.

Thanks!

Yes, glad you asked! New for us to recommend are these two pintxos bars:

Both in the Gros section (in addition to the deservedly famous Aloña Berri and the Bergara Bar)

first is "Patio de Raimuntxo", located on Kaleo Peña y Goñi 10, which is very close to the Kursaal Center. Try the foi with wild mushrooms.

Second is "Hidalgo 54" at Paseo Colón 15, a street which runs parellel to Avenida de la Zurriola, which is the street that goes past the Kursaal Center. Chef is Juan Mari Humada. Look for the yellow awning.

Have a wonderful time doing the "txikiteo" (bar hopping).

Maribel, thank you yet again. I have put this on my list. I expect I will be eating all day long and into the night!

Hi Maribel,

Thanks so much for the new suggestions. We will be sure to check those places out. Can't wait. We're counting the days. Thanks again!

From Gerald Hirigoyen, a French Basque chef (Piperade/Bocadillos in San Franciso) and author of "The Basque Kitchen"
my favorite old Basque saying:

"to know how to eat is to know enough".

We took the appendix of his cookbook, "Culinary Guide to the Basque Country" along with us on our very first explorations of the Pays Basque and made wonderful discoveries.

eskcrunchy,
Have you tried some of his recipies as well?

Hi SDA and ekscrunchy,
typo above: It's Patio de RAMUNTXO

In the June issue of the British Conde Nast Traveller there's an article about San Sebastián:
"Break for the Waves", mostly about the beach/surfer culture but with dining-nightlife recs as well.

The author says of my favorite, La cuchara:
"I just might choose to have my last meal on earth here....best foie I've ever eaten. Seared and served with apricots and rich gravy, it lingered so fleetingly on my tongue, I was forced to order another immediately."
My feeling exactly!

Of my other favorite in the Gros quarter, Bergara Bar, the author states:
"eating here is like being at the canapé stage of a rather superior party. You feel rather greedy walking back to the counter, laden with plates of pintxos resting and helping yourself to another perfectly executed mushrom omelette or tartlet."
Yep.
www.pinchosbergara.com

Please make sure to hit these two!

Maribel I just noticed this post after a long while. Yes, I printed out G. Hirigoyen's index from his cookbook and brought it with me last time (i think it was 2002 or 2003) and plan to do so again...I have made a few things from the book; I like his style very much!

Hi eks,
We just "finished" Hirigoyen's recommendations on this trip. The pastry chef at Sare's Gâteau Basque Museum is a childhood friend of his. Hirgoyen's recipe for gâteau basque is good, but Bicente (his pastry chef friend) says you must add rum instead of pastis. Rum is a very essential ingredient! T. Barrenechea's recipe calls for it.

When you return to the area, which I'm sure you will soon, I can recommend reserving a day, maybe an overnight for Sare: the Gâteau Basque Museum (demonstrations are done in French only, but the store is open for purchaes of the cakes and essential cake pans), the prehistoric caves, the cogwheel train up to the sacred mountain of La Rhune (fun!), the smugglar's route down through the Lizarrrietta pass to Etxalar,
witches' caves at Zugarramurdi, the authentic Basque farmhouse, Maison Ortilopitz (but only if you can't make it to the huge and wonderful Basque Ethnographic Museum in Bayonne). The Fagoaga family, owners of Hotel Arraya, have added a prix fixe restaurant (30 places-menu surprise for 35 euros) to their exquisitely decorated B&B, the Olhabidea. I'm eager to stay and dine there.

2 corrections in the above info about Bayonne:

In the market, Les Halles Centrales, in Bayonne, the Moulin de Bassilour no longer has a stand! Boo! They and the Gâteau Basque Museum in Sare make the very best gâteau basque, guaranteed.

The Arraya stand is in the Biarritz market, but they'e not the best. The best there is the Luz Tourtiere stand. But you can buy gâteau basque in the Bayonne market at Mauriac, I believe (we bought pain au chocolate) and their store on rue Port Nuef #23.

In Bayonne the Pare Gabia shop has moved to 1 rue Argenterie in Grand Bayonne, left side, right above the charcuterie Montauzer (ham) on rue de la Salie. They sell really lovely espadrilles and sandals there. www.paregabia.com

I've now finished and put up my completely revised Pays Basque file and in a few days will put up the revised País Vasco one, which I've almost finished, for anyone who is Basque Land bound.

When travelling in France, I always use www.logis-de-france.com, moderately priced accommodation in a very familiar atmosphere, usually centrally located. No luxuries, but (always) excellent local food, this chain of independently owned small hotels is normally a bargain.

Pity youŽre missing Bilbao...in any case, travelling west of SS on the coastal road is absolutely delicious (Getaria, Zarautz, Zumaia...)

Just back from my holidays...from the sun to the rain again...darn!!

Mike, I agree that it is a shame that I have no time to visit Bilbao, since I have to be up in the Dordogne a few days after arriving in Bayonne. However, I am treating this like a reconnaissance trip and plan to return to spend an entire week in Pais Vasco, perhaps next spring.

Maribel, I tried the gateau Basque last trip and fell in love.....that museum looks very tempting and will put it on the list for my longer trip to the region, perhaps next spring.

On a food-related note, there is a short article about Jamon Iberico in the New York Times magazine this weekend..about how La Tienda has been taking orders for the whole jams due next year. I will not be ordering from La Tienda because I will be bringing my own supply home in October!

http://www.nytimes.com/2006/08/27/ma...mp;oref=slogin

Hi eks,
Thanks for the link. I haven't been down to Jaleo in D.C. to see if José Andrés has actually put the Ibérico on the menu yet-maybe our D.C. area posters know.

Speaking of Getaria, eks, for your future trip, we stopped in Getaria to inspect the new, little and very appealing Hotel Saiaz, right in the village, above the small Gaztetape beach, and we were impressed. The rooms in the original 15th century "casa-torre" structure have exposed stone, soft salmon colored walls, beautiful polished wood floors, Persian rugs, 4 poster beds (rm. 26) , free Wifi, and the rooms in the modern annex have floor to ceiling ocean views. Some are lofts. There's a cozy antique filled sitting room, terrace facing the sea for drinks, computer downstairs to check email, garage for only 3 cars (must reserve), friendly manager speaks very good English. it's as charming as it looks on the web page, and Getaria has two very, very fine restaurants for superb grilled fish-Elkano and Kai-Kaipe, plus the town produces some great txakolí. And just maybe by Sept. '07 the new Balenciaga costume museum will be open (about 5 yrs. behind schedule).
For those looking for a little hotel of charm right in a picturesque fishing village right on the water btwn. Bilbao and SanSe, it makes a very nice choice.
www.saiaizgetaria.com

MikelG,
Hope you had a great vacation despite the weather. Just want to thank you so very much for all of your recommendations, which, for us, were perfect! We walked around with mikelg and cova notes in our hand.
We impressed our friends very much with our ham feast at Colmado Ibérico, we loved our last 2 nights of luxury at the exquisite Palacio Urgoiti (parador quality-really great restaurant, too).
In that area, your rec. of the Zintziri Errota really came in handy, since it was Sun., and we waited too long to call for reservations at Eneperi and Joshe Mari, and luckily were able to get a table at the mill.
Speaking of mills, iron mills that is, the best and most memorable lunch for our friends was our trip to Ansotegui, the Sun. before. It took a while to find (we should have approached it from Markina instead of that winding mountain road from Elgoíbar-we almost missed the tiny sign). That was a real treat food wise and also architecturally, the house is quite interesting. So, eskerrik asko for all your fine tips! They were greatly enjoyed by all four of us!

Glad you liked all these places, Maribel. IŽll try to keep you informed of all the new places worth visiting (my parents dined yesterday at a recently opened restaurant in a txakoli vineyard, in Lezama (close to Bilbao) and they said it was awesome...IŽll check it out in September)

You're fantastic, Mikel.
Is it the Lezama in Alava, outisde of Amurrio or the Bizkaia Lezama? In Lezama, Alava, we loved staying at Luis de Lemaza's 15th century converted farmhouse, the Iruaritz.
But I think you're referring to Lezama near the Zamudio Technological Park, correct?
We could have used a great recommendation that day!
It was Saturday lunchtime, we were on our way to the Palacio Urgoiti, and we hadn't reserved, not knowing at what time exactly we were going to land in that "restaurant heaven" between Amorebieta and Derio, coming from Biarritz!
Everywhere we tried, we encountered huge wedding parties! Of course, a Sat. in July, we should have known! We first struck out at Boroa (which you had so highly recommended), then the 2 in the park, Gaminiz and Aretxarte, then finally Artebakarra in Derio. We couldn't find Azurmendi, is that the txakoli vineyard one?
Which left us at 3:15 with the restaurant in the Palacio, which turned out to be fantastic, thank goodness!
We really needed you on speed dial that day!