2woozy

Planning my trip to Rome I read through threads like Aggiegirl and Maitaitom – and for where to go and what to see I would refer you to these more than able writers. Instead I thought I would try to address more nuts and bolts stuff, how to cope.

A few weeks in advance of my January 2010 trip, I was investigating having a phone for Europe. My cell phone wouldn’t work there so first I thought I might rent one. I found one plus a pack of minutes (purchased separately) for about $127. They would ship me the phone and then I would ship it back after my return. I filled out the on-line form but I didn’t like how it was shaping up so I stopped. A few minutes and a little more research later I discovered I could purchase a phone outright with 40 minutes talk time for $110 from www.mobal.com and by the way this phone would work in the US as well as Europe. I ordered thru the website and it arrived by FedEx in a few days. I intended it for mostly emergency calls but in the event I used it 95% of the time for texting with my family back in the US for pennies and I still have most of my talk time remaining. After I came back I put the phone away in a drawer til the next trip. I thought this was a terrific device to have.

I wanted to get a car arranged in advance to get us to our apartment downtown.
Aggiegirl had recommended [email protected] for transport so I sent him an email requesting his services. I had never been to Rome and I thought it would better to not have to worry about getting around. When we finally arrived at the airport pickup area there were a number of people holding name signs and a number of other men who were soliciting for customers (which they’re not legally allowed to do), talking to us in a low voice as we went by, pitching a ride to wherever..
Our driver, holding our sign, was not Gianni but Vincent who works for him (I suspect Gianni has several cars going) and his English was pretty limited but he was professional and knew where to take us. We arrived in Rome about 8 am and the traffic (the Italian style of driving I mean really) was pretty frightening to me and I was sure an accident was eminent at many points but it was only a normal drive in Rome. Our driver asked for 50 euros for the trip out and 35 for the trip back to the airport days later. Maybe the difference was the time it took; going out we got right to the airport. In any case I was glad to have that taken care of, it was a private car so we didn’t have to share.

I would earnestly suggest you consider renting an apartment in Rome, more so the longer your stay. Our apartment was a few minutes walk east of the coliseum, a nice neighborhood obviously handy to the ancient city and the metro stop opposite the coliseum. Our landlord provided wifi internet access so I brought my laptop and I thought it was just invaluable for researching anything I wanted to see or do in Rome or Florence, including restaurants, as well as keeping in touch with family and friends back home and for uploading the pix I took everyday.
I thought there was nothing obvious about me that announced me as an American but apparently this was not so. Anyone and everyone interested in pitching something, sometimes something I was interested in (coffee, lunch, pizza) but most often not, greeted me as a North American. Shopkeepers addressed me in English as I walked by (looking staunchly straight ahead) inviting me in, beggars and peddlers accosted me in English. On a rainy day in Rome, umbrella peddlers were omnipresent, at the entrance to every subway or up and down the sidewalk, at one crossing there was one every 15 fifteen feet. (How does one make a living this way?) Around the coliseum, various grifters would try to get my attention by calling “America! America! Meester!” On our last day in Italy, we were flagged down by an older man driving by Circus Maximus who spotted us as touristi and attempted a lame grift beginning by asking for directions. I often looked in the mirror to try to determine what it was about me that so loudly gave me away.

Many people have their favorite tours but I engaged www.romewalks.com
for tours of the ancient city (the forum and coliseum) and the Vatican (including the Sistene Chapel. We had Guen(ivere) as our guide and though I’m sure all the guides are good, we loved her. She was a fountain of information and edification as well as a delightful human being. Couldn’t recommend her more highly.

Getting along in Rome and Florence with limited Italian was ridiculously easy. I never felt out of place. Almost everyone that you might encounter knew some English and if not, just pointing at what you wanted was sufficient. Nevertheless, you should at least make the effort to learn to count to twenty and how to say basic things=What’s your name?, How much? I would like---- and of course to ask for the check (Il conto) because your server is not likely to give it to you til you ask. American style breakfasts are unheard of outside of large hotels; Italians will have a cappuccino and a pastry for breakfast and they will have these standing up at a café. Don’t sit down or you’ll likely be charged double for the table service. BTW, cappuccino’s are a breakfast drink. Later in the day ask for an espresso or a latte. The latte will come in a glass. Sit down to drink this; your feet hurt anyway.

You will find café’s and pizza by the slice stores every 20 steps in a residential neighborhood. Find out where your local supermarket is and patronize it. Liquor, especially, is cheap here and there is probably an outdoor market around the corner. Eating out is fun for a few days but pretty quickly you’ll want to save money and do for yourselves. Find out where the best local baker is. It won’t take long.

We took the fast train to Florence (90 mins) and went second class for 44 euros each; evidently there is little difference between first class and economy so don’t waste your money. Stayed overnight at the Ambassador hotel directly across (north, I think) of the train station so it was handy and utilitarian and 70 euros. Acceptable. There is a McDonalds directly south of the station but again, pastries, no American style breakfast.
Just to the southeast of the Palazzo Vecchio is the restaurant Tocco de Bacco (touch of Bacchus). Eat here. I inquired at our hotel where one might find a good late supper and Berenice sent us to La Rotonda a few blocks away where we had a great meal upstairs and a nice drink downstairs. Eat here and fear not. Took the fast train back to Rome, Termini, and zip, back to the apartment.

I walked everywhere in Rome and never felt unsafe or threatened. I was solicited endlessly but I pretty quickly learned to ignore it. Italians grow up surrounded by ancient churches, Roman ruins and great art and so are less impressed by it. In my home town there are a few Indian artifacts but that’s about it as far as older culture goes. That’s one of the reasons I’m more than willing to do the Trevi fountain thing. I went to all the major churches except for St Peter’s and lots of lesser ones and though I am not a churchy person, I was impressed (and I guess that’s what the builders were going for) by the history, the engineering, the architecture and the art. I went high and I went low and I had a great time with the exception of a few restaurants I would like to un-visit. Of course I went in the off-season and there were tourists but not at all like the high season. It was chilly but if you walk you will soon be unbuttoning your coat. Don’t be afraid of the subway, it’s easy to use. And don’t be afraid of crossing the street, just follow the Italians.

bab706

Thanks for putting together this great report - lots of practical, useful information.

We used Rome Walks last year for two tours (Colosseum/Forum and Vatican) and were very pleased as well. It made all the difference to have someone bring the history to life. We highly recommend them.

We are headed back to Rome again in April - can't wait!

kybourbon

>>>Later in the day ask for an espresso or a latte. The latte will come in a glass. <<<

If you ask for latte, you may get a glass of milk. Latte=milk in Italian, not coffee.

ellenem

Once I asked for a caffe latte and the server asked again and I repeated myself. I guess I still wasn't clear because I was served a latte caffe--warm milk with a small amount of coffee mixed in.

2woozy

I always got what I asked for but the cafes I went to were used to tourists. It might be useful to learn the exact terms..

Cbbi

Thank you so much for taking the time to post this report. I've copied and pasted much of it into my travel notes. We leave in just under 2 weeks.

"And don’t be afraid of crossing the street, just follow the Italians." Would you please elaborate? Is there something special we should know about crossing the street? And also is there a polite response when solicited by street vendors?

Thank you again - your report was invaluable as we make decisions regarding cell phones, winter apparel, etc. Now I'm off to search Rome Walks.

Asifkhan12

Hi.
Thank you very much for all of this.. things goes easy with all the information you put up here

Cheers

ellenem

>>"And don’t be afraid of crossing the street, just follow the Italians." Would you please elaborate? Is there something special we should know about crossing the street?<<

The OP was joking a bit. There are traffic signals to follow at many locations, but in some spots there may be no signals. Visitors unfamiliar with busy city traffic may be hesitant to step out into the street to cross.

>>And also is there a polite response when solicited by street vendors?<<
Since the street vendor has been rude enough to accost a stranger (you) with a sales pitch, the most polite response is to ignore them.

2woozy

Crossing the street is a bit like driving a car or bike in Rome, frightening at first view to this North American, disaster or death seem eminent to the unpracticed. To the street crosser it seems sometimes as though the traffic will never yield but it is mostly a dare. If you step into the traffic you must believe it will stop for you. This is daunting, so I say follow the Italians in this and learn.

cmcfong

Thank you for posting your report. Did you take a walking tour in Florence?

2woozy

A self guided tour, yes. Most of the things you want to see are within easy walking distance of downtown, the Duomo, the Accademia, the Palazzo Vecchio, Uffizi, Ponte Vecchio. There are tours to be had and no doubt a knowledgeable guide would add to your experience.

Peter_S_Aus

Traffic in Rome:

I’m no big fan of motor racing, but I think I’ve discovered something. There’s been no great Italian driver since Fangio, and the reason is now clear to me. All the Italians who might be gracing the Formula 1 Circuit are racing on a daily basis on the streets of Rome. And what a circuit it is. Round the Circus Maximus, down the via Di San Gregorio straight, hard right at Constantine’s arch, sweeping left hander at the Colloseo, dodge the guys dressed as centurions who are waiting for (paid) photo ops. Full noise up the via de Fori Imperiali (mind that Korean guy taking snaps). Rocket through the Piazza Venezia past the Victor Emmanuel monument, minding the tight chicane by the barriers around the current archaeological excavations, and off up the streets of the Capotoline Hill. Throw a left at St Peters, and blast down the bank of the Tiber. It’s absolutely free for spectators, and the whole thing is raced in micro cars – or diesel buses.

If you are outrageously brave, you can stop the whole show by stepping onto a pedestrian crossing. This takes considerable nerve, I’m here to tell you. It is a test of will, pedestrian vs. driver in Fiat 500, and leaves the running of the bulls in Pamplona for dead as a spectacle and adrenaline rush. There is an insane moment, when both pedestrian and driver do a quick “will he / won’t he” calculation, eye contact is made, and one either crosses, or hops back to the safety of the pavement. It has one in mind of Octavius (later to become Caesar Augustus) staring down Mark Antony in Egypt, except that in Rome, Cleopatra will likely be wearing ostrich leather boots (Prada), a silk scarf (Hermes), crocodile handbag (Gucci), a well cut little number (Yves St Laurent) and coat (Dolce & Gabana), bling by Cartier. As you do.

My Italian is not perfect, but I do have a grasp of basic sign language. I rather think that the two fingered salute that one receives from motorists on occasion is not meant in homage to Winston Churchill’s “V for Victory” salute. Particularly when it comes with a blast from an air horn. Allora!

LoveItaly

LOL, Peter. What an apt description. My son-in-law born and raised in Rome until he came here to California some 12 years ago sure had to learn how to drive differently here to put it midly. Italian drivers are mostly fantastic drivers but trying to cross major streets in Rome and throughout Italy takes an act of faith.

cmcfong

Thank you, 2woozy

maitaitom

"Italian drivers are mostly fantastic drivers but trying to cross major streets in Rome and throughout Italy takes an act of faith."

After having just spent eight days in Rome, I can only add an "Amen" to that statement.