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Road Work in the Mezzogiorno.

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Road Work in the Mezzogiorno.

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Old Aug 24th, 2009 | 11:35 AM
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Road Work in the Mezzogiorno.

We've booked a great trip to Sicily and as many advised us, are trying to spend as much time as possible there rather than on the mainland. And my spouse, a Rome fanatic, insisted on an extra day in Rome.

The result is that we have three days (two nites) to get from Catania to Rome. We decided to stop a Paestum for two nites and then continue on to Rome. That is, unless some of you think we're crazy to try to drive from Catania to Paestum in one long day.

I've looked on the internet, and it seems that there are lots of problems on the A3. Does the roadwork continue? If so, can I take the SS18 and the other roads by the coast as an alternative?

Any idea of the driving time Catania to Paestum?

Thanks. And thanks for all the advice re our trip to Sicily.
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 06:03 AM
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It all depends on the ferry connections. Run the route via Google Maps.
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 06:08 AM
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Hi, I'm Italian, living in Italy.
Sicily is great, wonderful, stunning, one of the best places. Real good choice.

About the road:
I would never suggest to drive that way.
I don't know when you are going there, but there is great rick of problems on the A3.

A good opportunity to avoid crowds, enjoying the trip and getting there safe is to take a ferry from Palermo to Napoli (Naples).

I'm gonna check the companies and timetables and fares for you, I'll be back.

That would be an opportunity to visit naples, stop there 1 night and enjoy some real italian PIZZA!
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 06:12 AM
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Google says 7:21 but I would plan on 8 hours plus stops--it is a long drive.
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 06:15 AM
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Here I am.

From Palermo you can take the Ferry to Napoli at 20.00 (8 pm).
It takes 10,30 Hours to get there, you can sleep on the ferry and arrive fresh in Napoli. There is a lot to see around Napoli, Ischia, Capri, the Reggia (Castle) of Caserta, etc.

You could also drop the car in Sicily, go by ferry to Napoli and then by Train (very near) to Rome.
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 06:16 AM
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You can check prices and availability here:

http://www.traghettiweb.it/


By the way, Paestum is Great, but Pompei and Ercolano near Napoli, destroyed and preserved by the Vesuvio eruption 2k years ago, are incredible.
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 12:13 PM
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Priscillota--thanks. We are taking the ferry (sans auto) from Napoli to Palermo and picking the car up there. We've seen Pompeii and Herculaneum--we're going to the Villa Poppae in Napoli on the way down to Sicily.

I'll think about taking the ferry back, and may do it, but it will take one nite and arrive in Napoli. I want to see the Museum at Paestum--we were there years ago and the museum was closed for some reason, then drive along the Amalfi Coast again. To see that, we would probably have to fight our way through Naples traffic, then down the coast to (probably) Paestum. If I have to take the ferry, I'll probably plan to stay somewhere in northern Lazio or southern Tuscany instead.
Terrible to have to make such decisions, no?

Seven or eight hours is not that long for us--we live in the Atlanta in the southern U.S. and are accustomed to driving 7+ hours to get to the Gulf or the Atlantic.
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 12:55 PM
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The problem is not the 7 hours driving, it's ok, but the road works in that autoroute which are eternal...
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Old Aug 25th, 2009 | 01:02 PM
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Why not train from Catania to Salerno, then pick up a car in Salerno to go to Paestum? We took the train from Giardi Naxos/Taormina to Naples two year ago and it was very pleasant.
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Old Aug 26th, 2009 | 08:26 AM
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Priscillotta--

I decided you're right and am looking at the ferries. But my wife is concerned that the sea will be rough in late Sept. and/or that the ferry will be so noisy that we can't sleep. Please tell me that those are not real problems--we are taking the ferry from Napoli to Palermo in any event.

One idea I have had is to take the first ferry and book the return when we get off in Palermo unless the crossing was too [something] for my wife or we cannot reserve a cabin on only two weeks notice. We can rearrange the last day to be in Palermo by the time we would have to.

BTW--the roadwork is what my original inquiry was about. What do you think about driving up the coast to the extent that we can? I realize that there will be slow traffic because of the gaps in the A3, but we generally do not like expressway driving on vacations. It seems to me that even though the coastal roads will be slower, we'll get back some of that time by missing stops on the A3.

Incidentally--now thinking that, if we do take the ferry, to spend our two extra nites and one extra day (because we won't spend it driving) around Orvieto or the Alban Hills rather than around Salerno. We spent about a week in Sorrento some years ago so are familiar with that part of the world, but haven't seen much of Lazio north and south of Rome.

Hazel--thanks, but we will already have a car already at a pretty good rate, so I don't want to change just to avoid a long drive.
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Old Aug 26th, 2009 | 11:32 PM
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Hi! no, the sea won't normally be rough, you'll be in southern italy, people can even bathe at the seaside in that period, it's not the Northern sea!

About the roads, I can tell you that for Italians that is a very bad part to drive. It's extremely slow, and crowded, so I do not recommend it. I mean, it's not impossible, but... I think that if your wife is worried for comfort in the ferry, spending days in the car is not so good.

Instead, I do like your idea of going to Orvieto! that's a good glimpse of italy. In that zone there are also Saturnia Thermae, very nice and you can also find natural hot water spots in the countryside, free, to bathe in the outside.
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Old Aug 27th, 2009 | 08:08 AM
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Thanks, Priscillotta--I've printed your answer and will show it to her. She was waiting only on your response. I gave her three choices (Amalfi Coast, where we've previously stayed, Alban Hills, and Orvieto) and after reading Fodor's, she opted for Orvieto. So looks like the ferry for us.


Again--thanks. Your ferry suggestion effectively doubles our time in actually seeing things as opposed to driving around Italy.
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Old Aug 27th, 2009 | 08:48 AM
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I love that ferry, Naples to Milazzo - and back! I've done it several times and would love to do it again. The last time was late September, 2 years ago, returning to Naples in mid-October. It's slow travel at its best. What the on-board restaurant lacks in atmosphere it makes up in the food on offer - I've had very acceptable veal limone and good pasta and even some good wines on the southbound trip.

Rise from your comfortable berth in your little cabin before dawn breaks, pull on your clothing with a warm pullover against the morning chill, then make your way out to the deck to watch the sun rise behind the black outline of Stromboli: http://jmstudio.fotopic.net/p37969650.html

Early morning views of the Aeolians are stunning and utterly bewitching. Here are some more photos, if you're interested: http://jmstudio.fotopic.net/c1461898.html

And the return trip is also delightful, rushing out on deck around midnight to see Stromboli's fireworks (our ferry was running a little behind schedule that trip), then passing between the end of the Sorrentine Peninsula and Capri in the beautiful early morning light: http://www.gardentouring.fotopic.net/p56677138.html

and: http://www.gardentouring.fotopic.net/p50062268.html

Then to be on the Bay of Naples with water as smooth as glass, the city barely visible through the morning mist and Vesuvius silhouetted against the sky - heavenly: http://jmstudio.fotopic.net/p29512138.html

One thing to keep in mind: if your cabin is too hot to sleep, you can close the vent in the ceiling.
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Old Aug 27th, 2009 | 10:37 AM
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Fantastic Julia !

We hope to see Lipari next year--you have inspired me.
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