Hope you don't mind the notoriety, but I have read read your positive comments about the 11th arrond. I would like to perhaps do a little exploring. Are there any particular streets, intersections etc. that you would recommend. I would enjoy spending time in "working and living" Paris away from tourists like myself. (hopefully I won't taint the nighborhood. Any particular restaurants or haunts you would recommend?<BR>Thanks

Pardon me for horning in on Elvira's question, but while you wait, here's a place that I've been to a number of times in that general neighborhood:<BR><BR>Le Dalou, 30 Place de la Nation, <BR>Tel: 01.43.43.41.38 <BR><BR>It's very reasonably priced, but white linen and they have a great menu (decent place for oysters, too, btw). I highly recommend the rack of lamb with a bottle of Bordeaux. The creme brulee is a wonderful finish. Mmmmmmm. <BR>

Topping, in hopes of finding Elvira.

I did not see Elviira's posting but my husband and I for years have stayed in the 11th, at a small hotel on rue Philipp-Auguste near Place de la Nation. We love being in a Paris neighbourhood, and going to the same boulangerie or fromagerie every day. There is an excellent couscous restaurant on Cours de Vincennes just about directly across the street from Le Printemps department store. The name is Couscous Royale, and you need to get there shortly after 7:00 pm to get a table because the Parisians in the area fill the place up by 8:00 or 8:30.<BR><BR>On Saturday mornings there is a wonderful market running for about a kilometer up the Cours de Vincennes, where you can find 100's of different cheeses or maybe some Mephisto shoes! Just walk east of Place de la Nation on Ave du Trone and you will see it in all its glory! <BR><BR>Usually when the weather is fine you can find a group of old men playing a game of petonque somewhere in the middle of La Place. Many gather round to cheer them on and it all adds to the neighbourly ambience.<BR><BR>It is a very safe area and we never hesitate to take a walk after dark around the entire Place. It is rare that you encounter another English speaking person or even another tourist. The other hotel guests at "our" hotel seem usually to be from other parts of France and are perhaps business people.<BR><BR>If you take a walk up rue Faubourg St. Antoine in the direction of Bastille, close to Bastille on the left hand side of the street you will see some furniture stores. You will never see more bizarre furniture than in those shops. We always go to have a look and be amazed. If you don't feel like such a long walk take Bus #91 (I think) from Place de la Nation, get off at Bastille, cross the road and walk back on rue Faubourg St. Antoine in the direction from which you just came. Vaut le voyage, as the Micehelin guides always say.

When Elvira stays in the 11th, she eats at Mickey D's. Just check her posts.