provence trip report
Jun 21st, 2006, 02:24 AM
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provence trip report
First thanks too all on this site as i used it extensively (espec. this forum) to plan my first international and solo trip. I have to also give props when do to the Rick Steves guide book _ Provence and the French Riviera which I used extensively along with the fodor's guide.
5/31 - flew Philadelphia to Paris CDG to catch connecting flight to Nice. As I said, this was my first overseas flight but I had a less than pleasant exp. at CDG. Of course we were in a large airbus for long haul flight but they pulled our plane around in the cargo area and we disembarked onto the tarmac into a shuttle bus. Other people from other connecting flights were jamming on at each stop to almost the point of fighting. The CDG employees loading the shuttles were pushy and rude, and i had to take 2 shuttles and finally made it to my gate only to get right in line for boarding. On my return home from CDG, we left the gate only to board a shuttle bus on the tarmac. It was a tense and angry 20 min. as we had to wait on the shuttle as the plane wasn't even ready to be boarded. otherwise, the actual Air France flight was pleasant and comfortable.
5/31 Checked into the Hotel Suisse in Nice. Room was comfortable and kept clean but the smallest room i've ever seen. I cannot complain though as I had asked for a single standard room,sans view, so long as it had private bathroom and that is what I got. Staff was pleasant and friendly but not overly warm. Didn't care so much though as I was only there to sleep and shower. Good location as it gives a beautiful view from the front of the hotel, and was very close to the Old Nice area and about only a block from the Cours Saleya with their beautiful market and cafes. Lovely lunch at Chez Freddy. Spent time in Nice shopping and visiting museums. I thought the cheesey, double decker tour bus was not a bad deal, since it was hop on/hop off all day (or for two days for three more euro) and I used it more like transportation to museums like Matisse and Chagall and just to see different areas on the other side of town without having to walk all the way back. took a day trip one day by bus up the coast to Monaco and Menton.
6/4 - Train from Nice to Arles on SNCF Corail Teoz. The ride was lovely and comfy as these are newer trains. This train was straight through and had I taken the TGV, i would have changed in Marseille and it would have taken the same total travel time. Since it was a four hour ride, I splurged on 1st class (57 euro) but after seening 2nd class cars, I would have been just as comfy.
I LOVED Hotel LeCalendal in Arles. The staff was warm and friendly and the decor was what I envisioned of Provence. the amazing Roman arena and ampitheater was right outside the hotel. My adorable room was off the cute garden and the free internet access and laundry service was great. No elevator but my room was right off the garden. Lucked out by traveling to this area during the Feria de Nime so I took a bus to Nime on day and had a great time at the huge outdoor Spanish themed street fest along with experiencing a bullfight. If you're a foodie I highly reccommend Madeleine and Erik Vedel Cuisine Provencale cooking classes. They run a bed and breakfast out of their home in central Arles along with various cuisine and culture programs. I joined them on two evenings for cooking classes with other guests of their B&B. It was informative and fun and I would def. go back. All in all, loved Arles with it's ancient culture and quaintness and no shortage of sights to see or places to relax.
6/9 train to Avignon - Stayed at Hotel Danieli right on the main road and a block walk to the Place D'Horlage(spelling?). The hotel staff were pleasant and helpful but the hotel itself wasn't as nice as the prior two I had stayed in. The fixtures were older and a bit shabby, bed not as comfy but it was kept clean by the staff and had private bathroom/toilet. Kind of tacky. No elevator. It was suppopsed to have mobile air con. I don't no what that was like cause i just used an oscilating fan that was in the room at night. I saw the necessary sights in Avignon - Palace of Popes, Pontd'Avignon but didn't seem to enjoy it as much as Arles. My favorite part, and highly suggested part was my full day private "wine safari". I found the website for and preplanned an one-on-one winery tour/tasting and educational journey through the Cotes du Rhone region. Michael Rijken is the owner of the company and your guide. He has an impressive resume as a chef/sommelier in various hotel/restaurant venues, also spent 13 years as the marketing director at Chateneuf du Pape. He picked me up at my hotel. On the way to Domaine de Cabasse in the Gigondas area, he explained the basics of taste and pairings, etc. When we got to the winery, I found out he had previously worked their as well so everyone knew him and he had full run of the place. He took me out into the vineyard and explained everything about the vine - the shape, the maintenance. We went into the pressing rooms and barrel rooms and then of course the tasting. I felt comfortable with him and not intimidated with my novice wine knowledge. I was relaxed enought that I could pick up the subtle taste nuances and not be preoccupied with what I thought I was supposed to be tasting. for lunch, he gave me the option of a restaurant that he thought was really good but a bit fancier or someplace more relaxed and budget - basically, what I was comfortable spending. I went with his reccommendation and he called up his friend/chef/owner who said to bring me to this great new bistro he had just opened in Vaison la Romana (again spelling?). It was lovely and because again, he knew so many people including my server, I had a great lunch with all the details. Aside from visiting the wineries, he would drive me up some beautiful winding roads where the view was fantastic point out the landscape, the olive trees - educating all the way. he drove me around the lovely village of Seguret and to the remains of the Popes home in the Chat.d Pape area. After lunch we visited Domaine d' Bernardins to tatse some wonderful Muscat sweet wine. Again I felt comfortable to ask questions and he was good about asking the wine makers to elaborate on their processes. At the end of the day, he dropped me back at my hotel and carried boxes of wine for me into the lobby. I plan to go back in fall and go out with him again when they are harvesting.
6/12 train to Aix en Provence
Stayed at Hotel de France on Rue d Espiriat which was a great location with a busy little pack of cafes right outside the door and the La Rotonde and the Cours Mirabeau right around the corner. Again, staff was pleasant although they did speak less English than other hotels but we got by fine with each other. Elevator was a plus. Room was very plain but a little nicer than Danieli but again was kept clean for me and had private facilities. The room had an air conditioner but it was sad. Barely cooled the room so during the day it was kind of warm but wasn't in my room much during the day. At night I opened up the huge windows and shutters in to quiet little courtyard and it was so cool I gave up on the air cond. Aix was definitely younger and busier which was a nice way to end the trip. No feeling of obligation to see historical sites, just leisurely shopping and meals. I did of course catch the wonderful Cezanne exhibit at Musee Granet and visited his studio, with items as he left them, as this was the celebration of 100 years since his death in Aix. I visited and bought Santons from a delightful little workshop on one of the winding streets and observed the world cup fun by watching the USA game and France games in the square at an outdoor bar with a tv set up. Couldn't help but notice I was "watching the game" with a glass of rose and a bowl of olives. Quite different than when watching Sunday Eagles games.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip for me. I wouldn't guage any hotels just by my descriptions of the rooms cause i went for the least expensive (so long as it had private facilities) as I didn't spend much time in them. All my rooms were between 60 and 90 euros a night.
i know we are all educated travelers but i have to lay it out for the record - Nobody in the places I visited in France were rude or unfriendly, nor did they seem to dislike Americans. People went out of their way to help find my way and to navigate the language and i would def. go back.
Things I now know after visiting provence:
1. I love tapenade. I didn't even like olives before.
2. There is no such thing as too much olive oil - Erik Vedel will show you that.
3. Everything tastes better when eaten outside near the Mediterranean.
5/31 - flew Philadelphia to Paris CDG to catch connecting flight to Nice. As I said, this was my first overseas flight but I had a less than pleasant exp. at CDG. Of course we were in a large airbus for long haul flight but they pulled our plane around in the cargo area and we disembarked onto the tarmac into a shuttle bus. Other people from other connecting flights were jamming on at each stop to almost the point of fighting. The CDG employees loading the shuttles were pushy and rude, and i had to take 2 shuttles and finally made it to my gate only to get right in line for boarding. On my return home from CDG, we left the gate only to board a shuttle bus on the tarmac. It was a tense and angry 20 min. as we had to wait on the shuttle as the plane wasn't even ready to be boarded. otherwise, the actual Air France flight was pleasant and comfortable.
5/31 Checked into the Hotel Suisse in Nice. Room was comfortable and kept clean but the smallest room i've ever seen. I cannot complain though as I had asked for a single standard room,sans view, so long as it had private bathroom and that is what I got. Staff was pleasant and friendly but not overly warm. Didn't care so much though as I was only there to sleep and shower. Good location as it gives a beautiful view from the front of the hotel, and was very close to the Old Nice area and about only a block from the Cours Saleya with their beautiful market and cafes. Lovely lunch at Chez Freddy. Spent time in Nice shopping and visiting museums. I thought the cheesey, double decker tour bus was not a bad deal, since it was hop on/hop off all day (or for two days for three more euro) and I used it more like transportation to museums like Matisse and Chagall and just to see different areas on the other side of town without having to walk all the way back. took a day trip one day by bus up the coast to Monaco and Menton.
6/4 - Train from Nice to Arles on SNCF Corail Teoz. The ride was lovely and comfy as these are newer trains. This train was straight through and had I taken the TGV, i would have changed in Marseille and it would have taken the same total travel time. Since it was a four hour ride, I splurged on 1st class (57 euro) but after seening 2nd class cars, I would have been just as comfy.
I LOVED Hotel LeCalendal in Arles. The staff was warm and friendly and the decor was what I envisioned of Provence. the amazing Roman arena and ampitheater was right outside the hotel. My adorable room was off the cute garden and the free internet access and laundry service was great. No elevator but my room was right off the garden. Lucked out by traveling to this area during the Feria de Nime so I took a bus to Nime on day and had a great time at the huge outdoor Spanish themed street fest along with experiencing a bullfight. If you're a foodie I highly reccommend Madeleine and Erik Vedel Cuisine Provencale cooking classes. They run a bed and breakfast out of their home in central Arles along with various cuisine and culture programs. I joined them on two evenings for cooking classes with other guests of their B&B. It was informative and fun and I would def. go back. All in all, loved Arles with it's ancient culture and quaintness and no shortage of sights to see or places to relax.
6/9 train to Avignon - Stayed at Hotel Danieli right on the main road and a block walk to the Place D'Horlage(spelling?). The hotel staff were pleasant and helpful but the hotel itself wasn't as nice as the prior two I had stayed in. The fixtures were older and a bit shabby, bed not as comfy but it was kept clean by the staff and had private bathroom/toilet. Kind of tacky. No elevator. It was suppopsed to have mobile air con. I don't no what that was like cause i just used an oscilating fan that was in the room at night. I saw the necessary sights in Avignon - Palace of Popes, Pontd'Avignon but didn't seem to enjoy it as much as Arles. My favorite part, and highly suggested part was my full day private "wine safari". I found the website for and preplanned an one-on-one winery tour/tasting and educational journey through the Cotes du Rhone region. Michael Rijken is the owner of the company and your guide. He has an impressive resume as a chef/sommelier in various hotel/restaurant venues, also spent 13 years as the marketing director at Chateneuf du Pape. He picked me up at my hotel. On the way to Domaine de Cabasse in the Gigondas area, he explained the basics of taste and pairings, etc. When we got to the winery, I found out he had previously worked their as well so everyone knew him and he had full run of the place. He took me out into the vineyard and explained everything about the vine - the shape, the maintenance. We went into the pressing rooms and barrel rooms and then of course the tasting. I felt comfortable with him and not intimidated with my novice wine knowledge. I was relaxed enought that I could pick up the subtle taste nuances and not be preoccupied with what I thought I was supposed to be tasting. for lunch, he gave me the option of a restaurant that he thought was really good but a bit fancier or someplace more relaxed and budget - basically, what I was comfortable spending. I went with his reccommendation and he called up his friend/chef/owner who said to bring me to this great new bistro he had just opened in Vaison la Romana (again spelling?). It was lovely and because again, he knew so many people including my server, I had a great lunch with all the details. Aside from visiting the wineries, he would drive me up some beautiful winding roads where the view was fantastic point out the landscape, the olive trees - educating all the way. he drove me around the lovely village of Seguret and to the remains of the Popes home in the Chat.d Pape area. After lunch we visited Domaine d' Bernardins to tatse some wonderful Muscat sweet wine. Again I felt comfortable to ask questions and he was good about asking the wine makers to elaborate on their processes. At the end of the day, he dropped me back at my hotel and carried boxes of wine for me into the lobby. I plan to go back in fall and go out with him again when they are harvesting.
6/12 train to Aix en Provence
Stayed at Hotel de France on Rue d Espiriat which was a great location with a busy little pack of cafes right outside the door and the La Rotonde and the Cours Mirabeau right around the corner. Again, staff was pleasant although they did speak less English than other hotels but we got by fine with each other. Elevator was a plus. Room was very plain but a little nicer than Danieli but again was kept clean for me and had private facilities. The room had an air conditioner but it was sad. Barely cooled the room so during the day it was kind of warm but wasn't in my room much during the day. At night I opened up the huge windows and shutters in to quiet little courtyard and it was so cool I gave up on the air cond. Aix was definitely younger and busier which was a nice way to end the trip. No feeling of obligation to see historical sites, just leisurely shopping and meals. I did of course catch the wonderful Cezanne exhibit at Musee Granet and visited his studio, with items as he left them, as this was the celebration of 100 years since his death in Aix. I visited and bought Santons from a delightful little workshop on one of the winding streets and observed the world cup fun by watching the USA game and France games in the square at an outdoor bar with a tv set up. Couldn't help but notice I was "watching the game" with a glass of rose and a bowl of olives. Quite different than when watching Sunday Eagles games.
Overall, it was a fantastic trip for me. I wouldn't guage any hotels just by my descriptions of the rooms cause i went for the least expensive (so long as it had private facilities) as I didn't spend much time in them. All my rooms were between 60 and 90 euros a night.
i know we are all educated travelers but i have to lay it out for the record - Nobody in the places I visited in France were rude or unfriendly, nor did they seem to dislike Americans. People went out of their way to help find my way and to navigate the language and i would def. go back.
Things I now know after visiting provence:
1. I love tapenade. I didn't even like olives before.
2. There is no such thing as too much olive oil - Erik Vedel will show you that.
3. Everything tastes better when eaten outside near the Mediterranean.
Jun 21st, 2006, 03:59 AM
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cmrey4, what a delightful summary of your trip. I was intrigued by the cooking classes in Arles and the escorted wine tour from Avignon; I've made a note of both.
My wife would agree with your comment about there being no such thing as too much olive oil. Her recipe for ratatouille starts like this: "Pour slightly more olive oil than you think you'll need into the saucepan. Now double it."
Anselm
My wife would agree with your comment about there being no such thing as too much olive oil. Her recipe for ratatouille starts like this: "Pour slightly more olive oil than you think you'll need into the saucepan. Now double it."
Anselm
Jun 21st, 2006, 12:46 PM
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Enjoyed your trip report! We are doing something similar in August. I have a question about CDG. We will be connecting there from Nice, to Detroit. We will have only 1 hr. 20 min. connection time. What do you think are the odds we will make that flight? Do you have any suggestions? My sister is flying to Paris tomorrow, and she has the same connection time to Barcelona. I didn't tell her what I've learned about CDG.
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