Since I've successfully used fodors message boards to plan our England trip last year, I thought I'd try and post a question about travel to the South of France/Provence during the early Summer of 2004: I am searching for a small hotel, or very nice guesthouse with a pool, very comfortable rooms and A/C for a family of four (parents + two well-traveled teens). Our 5 day touring plan with rental car (after 7 days in Paris) will include: arrival in Avignon, Palais des Papes, Orange, Vaison la Romaine and Grignan. I am considering two hotels: Manoir de la Roseraie in Grignan and a very small place I found on the east-side of the Rhone called Domaine du Moulin in St. Laurent des Arbres. Any suggestions or recommendations?

Since you mention Grignan, I assume that you're not averse to spending some time in the Drôme area. In that case, I recommend with great affection the hotel/restaurant Les Hospitaliers, in the medieval perched village of Le Poët-Laval, not far from the charming town of Dieulefit. This is our favorite hotel of all we've stayed in over the years, and we've been back to it at least 10 times. (I've even written an article on it; if you're interested, send me a message at [email protected].) The hotel is small and was built of the same stone used in the medieval village, once a stronghold of the Knights of Malta, of which part remains. There's a wonderful pool, with a view from the surrounding patio over the valley leading over to the mountains in the distance. It's a great place to relax; we usually spend half the day reading by the pool, but there's a lot of interest in the area.

If you go, ask for room #18, which is very large and has really wonderful storage in a series of closets, one with floor-to-ceiling shelves, along with a beautiful antique armoire.

There is really something magical about this place; perhaps it's the love that the owners have put into it over the years, of the joy of dining under the stars in what feels like your own universe. Whatever it is, it keeps drawing us back.

P.S. The restaurant's food is terrific.

If I am not mistaken, St. Laurent is on the West side of the Rhone and in a very pleasant area. The place you mentioned looks nice, I will have to check it out. Only caveat for you - depending on where you are planning on visitng, basing yourself West of the Rhone and North of Avignon can add some traffic hassles if you want to spend time in the countryside of the Vaucluse/Luberon etc.

Underhill: thank you for the advice. I came across Les Hospitaliers elsewhere and will check it out!

Underhill, I read your wonderful article about Les Hospitaliers for BonjourParis. Your descriptions make it sound absolutely lovely. I had read about this hotel in an article from a book I have "The Collected Traveler- Provence", which is an anthology with great articles re the Provence and the Cote d'Azur. I definitely would like to stay at this hotel someday. I'll be in Provence this May, but not sure if I can work it in then. By the way, is Montpelimar the closest city, where you could rent a car (and have the TGV)to get back to Paris? I've been trying to figure out how to get rid of my car in that area, without driving all the way back to Avignon (where I'm picking it up).

Sue4,

I'm glad you liked the article on Les Hospitaliers; we really do love the place. We used to get off the TGV in Montélimar and pick up a car across the street from the station, but I understand the new TGV Méditeranée doesn't stop there anymore. But it should be easy enough to get off the TGV at Valence and either pick up a rental car and drive down or take a local train to Montélimar and get a car there. So you could do the reverse: drop the car in Montélimar, then take the train to Valence and connect to the TGV. Montélimar has quite a number of rental-car agencies, and it's a nice town to visit.

Underhill, thanks so much for the info re Montelimar. I'm sure I'll call on you again in the future! And your article really was wonderful - you are a great "travel writer".

I agree!

You're both very kind--thanks!