Decisions, Decisions in Provence

Old Dec 14th, 2003, 02:34 PM
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Decisions, Decisions in Provence

Third times the charm. We have been planning this trip for three years and it will finally happen this summer. Getting married took precedent last summer. No, no second thoughts . We will be in Provence this summer for 6-7 nights and we just can't decide what to do. Do we rent a place for one week in the countryside, or spend a couple nights in a few places, example, 2 nights in Avignon, 3 nights in the Luberon and then 2-3 close to or in Nimes (we want to see the Tour). We will have a car as well as our bicyles so we need a good location to cycle in and out of and we definitley want to go wine tasting. Lugging loads of wine back on the plane is so much fun. Always makes for an entertaining last story to any trip - hope someone LOL thinking back on that one. Do folks feel its better to situate in one location or to experience a few? When we did a similar trip in Italy we said the next time we go back we would only do one location, but this is our first time to Provence so we are really not sure what to do. If you were to pick one location, what area/village would you pick and the same if you were to stay in a few places? I know I will get lots of different opinions, but they are all very much appreciated.
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Old Dec 14th, 2003, 03:13 PM
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Provence isn't that large. You might be happier staying in one place and taking trips in the area. Look for a nice central location. We usually stay halfway between Aix-en-Provence and Avignon and it's perfect for touring the area.

We stay at the Moulin de Vernegue and love it but it's pretty far out in the country. You might be happier staying in a fairly small town like St. Remy or Arles. That way you will have things to do in town and you can take day trips.

I would hate to pick a favorite place in France; I love it all, but if someone pinned me down, I think I would choose Provence. I'm sure you'll enjoy your trip.
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Old Dec 14th, 2003, 03:14 PM
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"loading lots of wine on flight"lots of fun and your luggage too? I don't think so! You may be able to manage a few bottls in each of your backpacks.
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Old Dec 14th, 2003, 07:05 PM
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I think in 6-7 days you could consider staying in two places. I would suggest near or in Nimes and then moving over to some small village around the Luberon (eg, Gordes, Bonnieux, Joucas, etc.). I don't know what staying in Nimes would be like because I haven't been there, but it's a city, not a village (over 100K population). That would give you a taste of both city and small town in Provence. However, you could stay in Arles, also, or some small place near Nimes. If you move, might as well make it far enough apart to make sense -- west of the Rhone and then East. I like the area north of the Luberon.

I don't think you say where you are leaving from (or how) which makes a big difference. I've changed places in a 10 day stay and found it fun to stay in two different areas. I stayed in Pernes-les-Fontaines a couple years ago (north of Isle-sur-la-Sorgue) and liked that small town very much; it was a very good central location for seeing other things.

I wouldn't move 3 times myself.
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Old Dec 15th, 2003, 04:27 AM
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Given the locations you mention, I would base in St. Remy which is a very centrally located charming small city. Another advantage is that it is very easy to get into and out off easily as roads going N,E,S,W are clearly marked.

From St.Remy you can easily visit the Luberon villages to the East; South you can visit Les Baux, Arles, even Aigues Mortes; North to Orange, Chateauneuf du Papes, Avignon and Pont du Gard.

If you want to be in Nimes more than 1-nt. I would suggest that after 4-5 days in St. Remy to stay in Nimes the balance of the time.

And suggest if you plan to be in the area this summer that you get your plans in place real soon as hotels get booked very quickly for that time of year.
 
Old Dec 16th, 2003, 08:46 AM
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We have travelled to St. Remy in each of the last 11 years. We love it.

Upscale hotel is the Chateaux des Alpilles; for budget (no a/c) L'Amandiere with a pool is fine. The outdoor market on Wednesdays 8 to 1 - is a must, best in Provence, in my opinion.

Favorite restaurant in town is Gousse d'Ail ( Thu. night is jazz night); fancier one, outside of town is in the auberge, Mas de Bournissac.

Good luck--Go Lance!!
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:24 AM
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job816,
My $0.02 worth - I agree with others that St. Remy area is a good central location. I would suggest staying there the whole time. You can easily hit all the spots that Sandi recommended. I think that Avignon, Aix and Nimes are simply too large and congested which makes getting in and out of town too time consuming. We based in Arles for 8 days and it was very convenient for day trips. Within 5 minutes you were out of town and on your way. Also it was very relaxing having a familiar place to come home to every night. I second Powell's recommendation of La Gousse D'Ail - Tues night is Bouillabaisse. How do they have jazz in that tiny spot?
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:35 AM
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job, I agree with all, about St Remy being the best pace to stay. Thanks powell for the jazz tip.
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:48 AM
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I would second Arles. It's close to the St. Remy area with a little more going on. I would also agree with spending half the time there and half in the Luberon area (Gordes, Roussillon, etc.)
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Old Dec 16th, 2003, 10:55 PM
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Hello,
My husband and I are heading to Paris next week and were thinking of taking the TGV to Provence for 2 nights to stay at Crillon de Brave in Carpentras...does anyone have any opinions on this? Thank you!!
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 05:31 AM
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Crillon La Brave is in the village of Crillon La Brave above Bedoin and Capentras. You will love the place, the views are magnificent, built on terraces. The food will not disappoint.
The furnishings are lovely.
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 06:03 AM
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caracy - we took the TGV from Paris to Lyon then drove into Provence and loved it. Two nights isn't very long, but you'll get a flavour for the area. It's best if you'll have a rental car, only because you can explore a bit more (Carpentras isn't very big, nor are virtually any places in Provence!).

job816 - I agree with the St. Remy or Arles recommendations. And definitely stay in one spot and take day trips. You can map it out ahead of time -- head a different direction each day and see as much as possible. "Discovering" little towns (like Seguret) is so much fun. I'd recommend also seeing Orange and taking a tour of the Roman theatre and seeing the arch (smaller than Paris' but pretty amazing). Visit the aqueducts around Nimes and see their collesium (and the one in Arles). I also love Chambery though it's a bit further north. Spending a day driving along the coast is spencatcular. I didn't care for Marseille (mostly because my aunt can't read a map or French and we were terribly lost). Six Fours and Bandol are darling (and Bandol wine is highly regarded).
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 07:56 AM
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Re: Thursday night jazz in the St. Remy Gousse d'Ail restaurant:
Two brother guitarists "Coco Breval" sp?) play in front of the serving bar, later joined behind that bar by a waiter who plays sax and A base fiddler.

They play Sephane Grappelli-type jazz. Very nice.

Anthony
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 10:14 AM
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Part of the decision has to do with what kinds of activites you enjoy doing. Then post questions here as to a tentative destination in relation to that. One of the items on my list is "as little as possible." So for that partiular interest the Crillon-le-brave would be ideal.

No question St Remy is ideally located for that part of Provence, but if the Luberon area fits your interests, then I would suggest dividing the time. I think it is easier to change hotels rather that drive back and forth every day on the same road.

We like to stay in Bonnieux, because if you look on a map you will see that roads head off in three directions and it is centered between the two major highways in the area. So you can loop around.

There is also a possible budget question...for one reason or another a more expensive hotel might be appropriate in one of the locations. In Paris our **is about 78, and I couldn't see any reason to pay more than that. In Bonnieux our **** is about 350 for half board, justified by the amenities provided for my interest in doing very little part of the time..



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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 03:36 PM
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This past summer we rented an apartment in Provence. It was part of a chateau and there was a lovely pool. I love staying in one place and making day trips. There was very little we did not see. Going back to the apartment with some wine and taking a swim, was so delightful. We ate out or went to the local butcher, cheese shop, baker for some meals. There are a lot of fruit and vegatable stands along the roads in Provence. We bought our food and cooked some meals. It was delighful. We stayed in Uzes, which was my favorite place, but indeed not as well located as Arles etc. Whatever you do, it will be fabulous.
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Old Dec 17th, 2003, 04:08 PM
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Yipper, We stayed in Uzes one year at a great place , The Bugude St-Pierre. I still have the poster they gave me That I had framed, of an art exhibit there.
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 07:50 PM
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Thanks for all the wonderful advice. I like the idea of staying in one place and I found a great one outside Chateauneuf de Papes, but I think we will go for the two. We will stay in the Luberon for three nights in a gite and then its between St Remy, Arles, and Uzes. Although my husband just said to me as I write that he would like to stay close to Mt Ventoux. He wants to ride up it with his bike so then that brings Vaison into the picture. We are Mr and Mrs indecisive. Do folks feel it is best to stay right in town or on the outskirts?
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 07:55 PM
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There is great biking at the foot of Mt. Ventoux riding into the nearby villages and vineyards.
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 07:57 PM
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I forgot to mention I found a nice place just outside Goult. How is this town?
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Old Dec 18th, 2003, 08:04 PM
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Okay, one more thing. I think staying around Carpentras would kill two birds. . . give us access to the Luberon and Mt Ventoux. Has anyone stayed around here (Pernes, Fontaine, L'Isle)?
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