zootsi

We just got back from 10 fabulous days in Provence and the Cote d'Azur. Perhaps the nicest memories were the unplanned experiences that we'll always remember. For example, while driving the hill town loop in the Luberon (Stu Dudley's report was very helpful!) we passed a sign for Abbaye St Hilaire en route from Lacoste to Menerbes. We drove down a very rough gravel road to discover a small abbey being restored in a picture perfect setting. Scenery wise, this was perhaps the high point of our trip.
Another totally unexpected high point was while exploring the small town of Tarascon while en route to Pont du Gard. Tarascon gets very little mention in guide books, other than for it's chateau. We loved this meduim sized, very untouristed town - the chateau was picture perfect, and in a spectacular setting - but what made the day for us was the festival that was happening in the town square. About 1000 locals were enjoying a sit down lunch at long tables, complete with unlimited wine and live music. Many people were in local costume, and there were absolutely no other tourists. We partook of the meal (8 euros for curried chicken, seafood salad, fresh fruit, cheese and wine), and had a ball.
Some comments:
- Many places, like the A8 toll booths and many restaurants, don't accept the low tech credit cards that we use in the USA. Most of France now seems to be using the new, signature free card.
- Nice exceeded our expectations. We spent 2 1/2 days there and could have easily spent more. The Hotel Rex was a gem for the budget traveler.
- We found Lourmarin to be an ideal base for exploring the Luberon area. Yes it's touristy, but very pleasant. However for sheer beauty, the northern side of the Luberon (Roussillon, Menerbes, etc)is a must.
- We loved the markets at places like Lourmarin and Nice, but don't expect any bargains, especially with today's dollar.
- St. Maxime was a real jewel if you are looking for a beautiful beach side resort town but don't want the 'attitude' of St. Tropez. Yes St. Tropez is great, but we much preferred St. Maxime.

cigalechanta

Very nice and welcome home.
Tarascon is also well known for the musée Souleiado, the history of those colorful provençal fabrics.
..There's a fontaine on one of the streets of the "Tarasque."
It's written in local lore that in the 1st century, Saint Martha saved the inhabitants of Tarascon (hence the name)
from the Tarasque a monster which hid in the Rhone and terrorized the region.

blh

zootsi - thanks for the trip report. Could you tell more about the Hotel Rex in Nice. Was the location convenient to transportation, sites, etc. Was it quiet - clean - and were the beds comfortable? Any other infomation would be appreciated! Did you day trip to the other towns in the Cote d'Azur from Nice?

We stayed in Lourmarin a few years ago and toured the villages in the Luberon. I am enjoying reading your report as it brings back many memories.

zootsi

blh: The Rex was in perhaps the best location possible in Nice - just a few steps off the Place Messina, on Rue Messina, which is a pedestrian street chock full of restaurants and shops. The Old City was about 10 minutes walking, so was the beach. There are bus stops within 2 blocks of the hotel. The Rex is situated in a building behind the street facing building, so it's very quiet. The downside is that it's a bit of a walk up several stairs to the actual hotel. The Rex is a budget hotel, so the rooms are small but clean and well taken care of. The bed was comfortable, but slightly smaller than a queen.
While we were in Nice, we didn't have a car, but we did take the bus to Monaco, which was fun.
Later in our trip (when we had a car), we stayed in St. Maxime, which is a very nice seaside town just east of St Tropez.

blh

Thanks, Zootsi. I appreciate the information on the Rex!

lemidi

Enjoyed your report.

Cgale

Hello,

Your trip sounded wonderful. I'm planning on going next May. I had a question about the A8 etc not taking US credit cards. How do I get this new signature free card or do I have to carry cash everywhere?

Thanks,
Celeste

kevin_widrow

"Old-style" US Credit cards, which need to be signed - are accepted just about everywhere. The only major exceptions a tourist might run into are tool booths and gasoline pumps.

So when on the highway, have some cash with you and for gas - make sure to go to a station where there is attendant.

-Kevin

Michael

Toll booth attendants will accept "old-style" credit cards. The cards do not work in most, if not all, self-serve situations (RER machines in CDG, automatic toll booths, unattended gas stations).

Ptolly

Is it possible to make a base in nice and travel to Monaco and St Maxime? l am appreciative of the info on hotel Rex - l will investigate. Also Zootsi - thaks for your eport it sounds just what we hope to do - we have a villa booked just outside Avignion which we will find our way to from Nice. \should we consider car or train for this route?

Viajero2

I am glad to hear another poster who agrees with me!! I love, love, love the Cote D'Azur! If given the choice between going back to Paris or Nice, I would go back to Nice in a millisecond. From Nice we drove the Napoleon Route on a good friend's recommendation on to Lyon. That was definitely a wonderful experience. So much to do and explore around that whole geographical region; I see it so narrow-minded the amount of people that think solely of Paris and environs when they think of France.

Eze

Yes, it is very easy to reach Monaco from Nice, either by train, roughly 20 minutes trip (rather frequent) or by bus (line 100) that takes roughly 45 minutes depending on the trafic. I would favour train.
St Maxime is much farther. In this direction, from Nice to Fréjus by train and bus afterwards.

zootsi

Ptolly, I honestly don't know too much about the trains, but the drive from Nice to Avignon is an easy one. I would definitely want a car to be able to explore Pont du gard, Tarascon, St.Remy, etc,etc. Ste-Maxime is really too far for a day trip from Nice. Another thing I forgot to mention was our bike ride from Ste-Maxime to St. Tropez - wow! 80% of this ride is on a bike and pedestrian only path along the sea,with plenty of places to stop for a swim. The last 2 miles or so into St Tropez is not as pleasant, with lots of traffic, but it's a great ride overall. There is a small bike rental shop in Ste. Maxime, just by the bridge.
As for the credit card issue, I did encounter two restaurants that wouldn't take out 'old' style card.

Ptolly

...so would it be possible to stay in Nice for 2 nights(Hotel Rex) - spend a day trip to Monaco by train then drive to St Maxime and stay 1 night - explore the coast and beaches before driving on to our Villa outside Avignon? What are the sights which are 'not to be missed'?

zootsi

Ptolly - sounds like a good plan. The coastal road just south of Cannes - I believe it's called the Corniche D'Or, is quite spectacular, and might be a fun way to drive to Ste Maxime from Nice. Antibes, just south of Nice is also worth a visit. Monaco on the other hand, was 'ok', at least just to say you've been there, but I wouldn't spend a whole day there. If possible, try and spend an afternoon exploring the hilltowns of the Luberon (Menerbes, La Coste, etc). We found this the most beautiful area of our trip.

marisak20

I too am going to stay at the Hotel Rex in Nice in March. I'm glad to hear that you enjoyed it. I was wondering, could you tell me the check out time? I need to catch a flight back to Paris on the day we check out and wanted to make sure I could enjoy Nice as long as possible on that final day before flying out.

Thak you!

zootsi

I think the check out time was 11:00, but I'm not positive. You could probably check out, then leave your luggage at the reception desk while you spend the day enjoying the city. We've done this at many hotels with no problems.

BeachGirl247

bookmarking

Celiaanne

I loved Nice too -- was plesantly surprised actually.

We also stayed at the Rex, and I agree that it is clean and in a great location. I don't know if I was prepared for the sparseness of it though -- at least our room was VERY bare.

We had twin beds each against a wall with a piece of furniture in between. It was pretty tall, so there was no nightstand, so no light for reading, etc., But, it was cheap and clean -- think dorm room and you will have a good idea.

We took a bus trip to Eze and really enjoyed it. We stayed 3 nights, but we could have definitely used more.

Have fun!