Before I decide how to do this I'd like to prioritize some of the villages/sights.

Since we'll be in Provence the 2nd week of June I'm thinking of totally skipping things lavender: Senaque Abbey and the Lavender Museum. Wasn't keen on them to start with.

Of the following villages I like to pioritize and drop a few.

Our style is to wander through the streets, drop into a few stores, see the sights and enjoy the views. I'm an amateur photographer so satisfying that would be good.

While we do spend some time in museums, we're not really museum goers.

A full sitdown lunch is not important. Just a quick snack is fine.

The villages on my list to prioritize are (alpha):

Bonnieux
Gordes
Lacoste
Lourmarin
Oppede le Vieux
Roussilon
Saignon

Thanks for the help in doing this.

Don't you have time to see them all? In which case, visit them in a logical geographical order.

A full sitdown lunch is not important. Just a quick snack is fine. A bit like going to a Bordello and sitting in the corner then You know this is France and a three course meal of the day is mandatory

Hey M,

>A full sitdown lunch is not important. Just a quick snack is fine.<

Sacre bleu!!! Your'e not in Kansas anymore.

Slow down and enjoy Provence.

Of your list, our least favorites were Gordes and Oppede le Vieux. W didn't visit Saignon.

I guess it depends what your goal is, but you said your goal is just to walk around and snap photos and go into shops, so not real attraction or site of interest is necessary, I guess. I haven't been to Lacoste, I'd but Roussillon at the top. Gordes if you want to shop, as you say. Never got into Lourmarin, too crowded with tourists and cars so I just left (don't think I could even find a place to park, maybe it wa market day). I really wanted to stop there to visit Camus' grave, though. Bonnieux is okay. I sure wouldn't go there for shopping, and it isn't very big, just a pit stop for me.

I wouldn't worry about this too much, a lot of them aren't that different IMO but I don't care a whit about shopping, but wandering around streets in all of them isn't going to be anything that different in one vs another. Shops aren't going to be that different, anyway, I just think Gordes has more because it is so popular with tourists. I can't see any great loss if you didn't make it to BOnnieux. NOw Roussillon is the only one I think of as that special.

Life really isn't like this.

I love it when people answer their questions instead of mine.

If we decide to rent a car for a few days we'll visit whichever towns fit into a logical path. No rushing around.

If, however, we decide on a private tour which would most likely be limited to one day, we would try to be efficient and select a limited itinerary to allow the most time in each selected place. For that day I don't think we'd want to sit around for a couple of hours having lunch.

I added "drop into a few stores" more as part of wandering around than hard core shopping. My wife may buy the odd item but in general it's part of feeling the flavor of the place.

If your original post mentioned no rental car and private tour for one day you might have received very different responses.

I think each of these villages is special in its own way.

Lourmarin is on the other side of the Luberon mountain and you have to travel through a mountain pass to visit there. It's not a perched village but flat. There's a chateau you can visit, a charming village center with cafes, restaurants, shops. It's become a bit more upscale there over the years, I think. There's a good sized market on Friday mornings.

Bonnieux is one of the perched villages and there are beautiful views of the countryside. It also has a market on Friday mornings, smaller than Lourmarin's. There are some shops, but I'd mainly visit to walk through the village, admire the architecture and the views, the tiny pedestrian streets. There would be several places to have lunch, more leisurely or just a snack.

Lacoste would be easy to visit paired with Bonnieux, a perched village just across the valley. There's been a lot of restoration in recent years, by an American art school (SCAD) and Pierre Cardin who owns the old castle at the top. You can also now visit some of the castle interior, and there are lovely views from the top. There's very little commerce in Lacoste, so you really just wander there, on the steep cobblestone streets. I like it.

Roussillon is quite different than the other villages because there's a mineral called ochre in the soil, and the village is very colorful. It sits kind of up on a spur between Bonnieux/Lacoste and Gordes. There are shops and eating places, and you can do a little walk through the old ochre pits (a small cost) or walk up through the little streets to an overlook. This village draws more tourists (some in buses). There's a market on Thursday but it's quite small.

Gordes has a really great site on the top of another mountain on the other side of the valley. There's a wonderful overlook where you can admire the village. The village itself is fairly flat (once you get up there) with a big square and a chateau in the center. I would recommend going for market day on Tuesday-- it's a nice size market but not too overwhelming. There are shops, eating places, and tourists in buses.

I love Saignon. It's further east and sits above the town of Apt. It's tiny with a beautiful square. Basically here you'd wander the little streets, maybe have a coffee at the boulangerie/tea shop or restaurant on the square. But mainly I'd recommend finding your way to the "rocher," climbing up on the huge rock among some restored ruins of an old castle for an amazing view of another part of the Luberon. There's a lovely isolated plateau above Saignon, and you could take this road over to Bonnieux.

Opppede-le-Vieux is further west down the Luberon Valley. It's a ruined village that has been brought back to life. You have to walk in a ways from the public parking to the small village center... a cafe or two, a new little shop. But then you can walk up through rocky paths to the old church which I find very interesting. Once again, there are beautiful views. You used to be able to climb around in the old castle ruins, but there were signs posted this year and it was no long permitted.

Beyond the villages, if you had a car, you could also visit some spots in the countryside or on the mountain, depending on your interests. You could stop at a winery as well, if that interests you.

Myer, hope this helps you think about your options. The Michelin Green Guide does outline a driving tour in the Luberon.

Kathy

ditto judy

ah, we all read different questions in different things.

I started by writing that I hadn't decided how to do it.

I didn't want to get into the debate about renting a car or not.

I just wanted to get opinions about the various villages and and then based on how we're doing it I would put together a plan.

I believe that out of 9 responses only 2 had anything to do with the villages.

You will have to dock our pay then.

Hi Myer,

I also will have to get my pay docked. I haven't seen all of the villages so cannot rank them for you.

However, I did want to see some of the villages, and I don't like to drive. So after lots of research, I found these tours:

http://www.city-discovery.com/arles/tour.php?id=1141

I was based in Arles for one week. I found they offered just the right amount of time in the towns. At first, I thought I would be disappointed with so little time there -- then I saw there wasn't much "there" there. Just a few streets, some tourist shops, some nice cafes.

BTW, the driver agreed to add Les Baux to our day, and I would say that ended up being my favorite.

Anyway, I recommend this tour group!

s

No pay-docking.

Thanks.

swandev2000, could you tell me how much time you had in each place? I too am concerned that we'll stop for a photo and move on.

I'd like to have enough time to wander. Of course, if you go somewhere and there isn't much that's a bit of a bummer.

Did the driver make short roadway stops along the way?

I came across a comnpany call taxi-provencetours that give canned tours and also private tours where you can make up your own itinerary. city-discovery seems to offer this as well but they appear to be based in Aix.

That may work for us.

Interesting the Les Baux ended up being your favorite.

I want to go there but as part of the day to Saint-Remy and we can do this by bus.

The problem is that in June the bus only runs on weekends and that's not market day in Saint-Remy. I'm sure I can work something out there. I'll check the bus schedule for timing and if it doesn't work out I may add Les Baux to the tour day.

Thanks again.

And thanks KethyWood for you detailed description of the villages.

This will help a lot.

Hi again,

Yeah, the poor state of public transport in France will probably keep me away for a long time --

Well, like you, I wasn't really interested in the museum, and that was included in the tour; that took up the most time, about two hours. We ended up having about 45 minutes in Roussillon and Gordes. Like I said, I thought it wouldn't be enough, but it actually was -- it only takes about 10 minutes to walk the villages. Because Les Baux was added and not scheduled, we only had about 20 minutes -- I wish I'd had more time there.

The reason I liked this tour was the cost -- I really didn't want to spend, like $500, for an afternoon.

Hope you find something that works!

s

Here is the section in my Provence itinerary about visiting the villages in the Luberon.

Visiting the villages in the Luberon
If you stay in Gordes*, start by visiting this wonderful perched village. You should park in the large lot (pay about 3E) down below the town (steep walk up). Explore this village thoroughly – not just the areas directly around the Chateau. There is an ATM in town on the side of the chateau where the outdoor cafés are located. On Tuesday morning there is an outdoor market in Gordes. It’s a little touristy, but quite good. There is a GR (walking route) that goes through this village and it passes by the lower sections of Gordes. Try to pick it up & follow it down hill. The route is marked by red & white stripes, usually painted on the sides of buildings. As you face the Chateau with your back to the main entrance to town (the steep hill), there are several shops on your right (look for a Pharmacy) and follow one of these streets down to where it passes a church. The road turns right just past this church (there is a GR mark where it turns right). (If you go straight past the church, where is a wonderful panoramic view - look for the “Point de Vue” sign). If you follow the GR down hill (after you have turned right past the church) you will see an old medieval wash basin (lavoir) and also get a close-up view of how they built these perched villages on top of rock outcroppings. It’s about a 10 minute walk from the center of Gordes down to this wash basin. There is a nice shaded area near the basins where you can relax & enjoy the surroundings. This is a very interesting walk.

After Gordes, head to Oppede le Vieux*. Leave Gordes towards les Imberts. At Les Imberts, veer to the left just past a gas station. Then take a left opposite the “Exit” sign to Les Imberts. Go over a small bridge and past vineyards & a lavender field. At an intersection, keep going straight towards the N100 and the Luberon Mountain range. At the N100, take a right and then immediately turn left & go under the railroad tracks. Follow the signs to Oppede les Vieux. There is a town of Oppede which is not “le Vieux” (old). It’s a pretty drive getting there from Gordes. Part of the drive strangely passes through a parking lot. As you approach Oppede le Vieux, get the cameras ready.

After Oppede, head towards Menerbes* (another pretty drive getting there). Explore Menerbes. If you have read Peter Mayle’s book, you’ll know that this is where he lived. Many people just drive through Menerbes – we did the first couple of times we visited. It’s actually a great town to explore on foot. Some of the most interesting areas are on back streets & even on some dirt streets. There are many artisans scattered throughout the village.




After Menerbes, head to Lacoste. Although the “main road” to Lacoste (D109) will take you up on a plateau & directly into Lacoste from the west, I prefer the road south of Lacoste (D103 towards Bonnieux then the D3) that passes through some pretty countryside with vineyards & cherry orchards (bypassing Lacoste). As I said, there is no wrong road in this area - if you have the time, take every one. Both Lacoste & Bonnieux are perched villages – staring at each other over a valley. The settings of both are quite spectacular. The best view of Lacoste is from the D3 just west of where it intersects the D109. Take the D109 into Lacoste & drive up into the village, but turn around at the Mairie parking lot & retrace your route (heading to Bonnieux). This will afford you good views of Bonnieux. One unfortunate situation is that you really can’t get good views of both Lacoste & Bonnieux at the same time of day because of the sun’s position. We usually view Lacoste on our morning drives and Bonnieux in the evening just prior to dinner.

Explore Bonnieux*. Walk up the narrow R Mairie (see the green Michelin Guide) to the Terrasse to get a wonderful panoramic view of the area. Walk down R Voltaire & peek into the antique shop to see a very interesting interior.

Drive through Bonnieux & head toward Lourmarin on the D36 & look behind you to see another great view of Bonnieux – more picture taking. When you get to the D943, head north toward Apt.

An optional stop is at the Fort de Buoux (look for signs just after the turn onto D943) which was a refuge for the Waldensians and then destroyed by Louis XIV. Pick up the English guide & walk around the Fort. A bit of climbing is involved, but I found the fort more interesting than I expected and the views from the top were great. There are usually a lot of rock climbers in this area.

Find Saignon on your map & drive there on the D232 from Bonnieux. There are some pretty lavender fields on each side of the road as you approach Saignon. There is a picturesque view of the village from this road too. Explore Saignon thoroughly on foot – there are only a few shops in town and 3-4 simple restaurants. The main square in town is very picturesque – covered with plane trees, a beautiful fountain, lavoire (washbasin), and an ivy covered building. On one side of this main square, the Auberge du Presbytere would be a lovely spot for lunch.

Take the D48 to Apt. There’s another lovely view of Saignon from this road and another lavender field. Notice the rock formations west of this road. This Saignon/Apt excursion will add about 45 minutes to your touring, and the outskirts of Apt and some of the urban sprawl are not what you want to experience. However, Saignon is quite lovely & it’s in a pretty setting and the lavender fields make a wonderful experience (in early summer when the lavender is in bloom). If the lavender fields are not in bloom & you need to save some time, then skip this excursion. Instead of heading to Saignon after Bonnieux, take the D149 north to the N100. There is actually a very pretty lavender field with a view of Lacoste in the background along this road. My wife has taken several pictures of this scene.

Head to Roussillon* and explore this village (map in the green guide). You will have to park below the village & walk up. There are a lot of shops in Roussillon and they are open on Sunday (never been there on a Monday). This is a good place for lunch and, although the cafes might seem a little touristy, it’s a fun spot if you happen on a sunny day. Visit the ochre fields close by, but do not wear white shoes, white sox, or touch your face with your hands. The ochre color is hard to get out. Don’t try to drive through Roussillon – my wife got stuck on our last visit & she was mad at me for hours for insisting that she drive through Roussillon.

After Roussillon, take the D104 to Goult and explore this town. Check out the restaurant I recommended (Bartavelle). Wander through this town that is a bit off the main tourist itinerary. Find the Chateau & walk the streets around it. Like Gordes, notice how the Chateau engages the rock outcropping it is sitting on. There is an area near a windmill with some wonderful views looking south. There is another great viewpoint marked “panorama” – look for the signs at the windmill end of the village, towards the chateau. If I had to live in one of these pretty towns in the Luberon, this is where it would be.

After Goult, drive through St Pentaleon, and then back to Gordes.

If you have seen pictures of an Abbey with large Lavender fields in the foreground, that’s Senanque Abbey** just outside of Gordes. This scene is actually on the cover of my Michelin Green Guide. The drive there from Gordes is beautiful and the setting is lovely. However, in ’10, there was no lavender directly in front of the Abbey - the tour guide said they were re-planting the lavender, but I didn’t see anything but weeds. It might take a few years for the lavender to look anything like the pictures on the postcards. There are some other pretty lavender fields close to the Abbey – only the field directly in front is being re-planted. The only way you can visit the interior of the Abbey is on a guided tour. The tour takes anywhere from 1 to 1 ¼ hours, and it is only offered in French. The tour can be a bit tedious if you don’t understand French. The Abbey opens up in the morning between 9:45 & 10. The first tour in June ’10 was at 10:10 and the next tour and last one of the morning. was at 10:30. The first tour in the morning is the best time to visit Senanque because it is less crowded then, the sun is in the best position of the day to shine on the lavender and “front” of the Abbey, and it will be much cooler at 10 than at 2:30 PM. There were only about 10 visitors at the Abbey when we arrived at 9:30 (and took pictures of the Abbey & lavender/weeds) but it was “mobbed” when we left at 11:30.

I’m not a fan of Fountaine de Vaucluse, although it’s “rated” quite high. I’ve never seen the fountaine because I’ve never been there in the spring when the fountaine gushes. The town is way too touristy for me, but the walk along the tree-shaded Sorgue river is very nice if you can do it at a time when there are not many tourists around (in the AM). Regardless, there is one touristy shop after another on the side of the road/walk opposite the river.

Stu Dudley

It looks like you received nice village reviews. I do agree with StCirq that you have time to see them all.

If you have time or inclination, here's my TR link for some of what you've mentioned:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...e-sandwich.cfm

Love, love loved, Aix and our hotel there (Aqua Bella) whose staff set us up with Rendez-Vous Provence van tours.

Myer, you will find pictures of all these villages in our two Provence phototravelogues referenced at http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...azur-again.cfm