Following the raves of a number of Fodorites regarding the southeast corner of Switzerland, and after reading a Bon Appetit article about the Graubunden region, I'm rethinking some of next summer's Swiss itinerary to eliminate some of the places we've been and substitute a few new ones. Have only been to St. Moritz in that area, and took a beautiful day train trip up to the Bernina pass. Is Chur worth three days as a base? And is Poschiavo worth spending two nights? Thinking of going from Andermatt to Poschiavo, then to Chur, then to Saas Fee --all by train on Swiss Pass. This is in addition to some time in Basel and Weggis before, and Gstaad and Montreaux afterwards.

Patrick,<BR><BR>I wish there were more questions like this. Very detailed, so we have enough information for a detailed response.<BR><BR>I am assuming I am one of those who raved about this corner of Switzerland. J It is of course a pleasure for me to reply.<BR><BR>Yes, I think Chur is worth three days as a base. You should reserve one day for the town itself. Stroll through the narrow cobbled streets (mostly pedestrian area) or join a guided tour (the advantage is that you can see the interior of the old town hall), have a look at the St. Martin church with the stained windows by Augusto Giacometti, visit the Kunstmuseum with picture by Angelika Kauffmann, the Giacomettis and Segantini and enjoy a coffee or hot chocolate in a caf&eacute; on one of the beautiful squares (esp. Arcas square). The highlight IMO is the cathedral on a hill above the town. It is under restoration at the moment, but still worth a visit. I was fascinated by the late gothic altar, the crypt with the pillars and capitals and the treasure. The church St. Luzi a few steps away is often overlooked, but has a 1200 years old crypt. The cable car to Brambruesch starts right in the town and takes you to a place with great views of Chur and the Rhine valley.<BR><BR>There are many possible day trips from Chur: The vineyards with quaint villages north of Chur (Maienfeld, Malans etc.), the train excursion to Arosa (maybe add a trip by cable car to Weisshorn), an excursion to the Via Mala gorge with a visit of the church St. Martin in Zillis or visit the spa in Vals (scenic train/bus ride).<BR><BR>Poschiavo is also definitely worth the two nights. I am assuming two nights means only one full day for exploring. You should reserve a half day for strolling through the town watching the churches, the bone chapel and palazzi, the Spain quarter and having an ice cream at Caf&eacute; Semadeni on the main square. Your Swiss pass offers you great opportunities to spend the rest of the day: Take the train or bus to Le Prese, walk along the left side of the lake to Miralago (maybe two hours with some breaks), from there back by train or bus; or take the train up to Cavaglia and walk to this magical bluish lake below the Pal&uuml; glacier; or take the train up to Ospizio Bernina and hike via Sassal Masone (stunning views, good restaurant with excellent wines) to Alp Gr&uuml;m or Cavaglia, back from there by train.<BR><BR>In case you would be interested in a day hike: take the train to Brusio, then the bus to Viano. From there it is a 4 to 5 hours hike via Alpe San Romerio (Romanesque church, restaurant, gorgeous views) to Poschiavo. Poschiavo dep. 11:17 (Bernina Express in summer), Brusio dep. 11:55 by bus, Viano arr. 12:15, reservation required).<BR><BR>I am wondering if a different itinerary would possibly work better: Weggis – via Andermatt to Chur – Poschiavo – via Tirano to Lugano (bus operating by Rhaetian railway), stay overnight and to Saas Fee the next day via Locarno – Centovalli train (very scenic!) – Domodossola – Brig.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

Thanks, Ingo. Of course I was referring to you, but I hate those questions that specifically ask information from one specific person. Yours is a great answer, and we already switched our itinerary from Zermatt (where we've been twice) to Saas Fee (that I had never heard of until your postings and those of Bob Brown).<BR>I especially like your comment on the alternate route to Saas Fee. We have done the Locarno -- Domodossola --Brig route before and it is indeed beautiful. I wouldn't mind doing it again. But although we had considered a return to Lugano, we didn't enjoy it enough to warrant giving up a night along the way and adding it to Lugano or Locarno. I will check out the times for that route. I was planning the order I mentioned going to Poschiavo from Andermatt (although it is about a 6 hour trip) and then to Chur to take the Glacier Express from Chur to Brig (and bus to Saas Fee), which seemed to be one of the shorter and easier connections, as we could leave Chur at 10:57 on the Glacier Exptress to Brig, catch the bus and arrive in Saas Fee at 16:23. We could possibly start that day in Poschiavo, however, still allowing us to go to Chur immediately after Andermatt before going to Poschiavo and then making the longer journey from Poschiavo to Saas Fee. <BR><BR>What about hotels? The Bon Appetit article shows a lovely looking hotel called the Albrici right on the main square in Poschiavo. Not sure about Chur -- perhaps the Freieck, the Drei Konige, or the Stern? We do like nice smaller hotels right in the main part of town, not out somewhere.

Patrick,<BR><BR>the alternate route which I suggested is IMO not doable without a stay in Lugano or Locarno. You could do it via Milan - Stresa, but it would cost a considerable surcharge to your Swiss Pass (Tirano-Milan-Domodossola). But, what about this route: go from Weggis to Poschiavo via Arth-Goldau – Landquart – Klosters – (Vereina tunnel) – Pontresina. Go to Chur after your Poschiavo stay and then to Saas Fee with Glacier Express and bus. So you can explore more new scenery!<BR><BR>About hotels: In Poschiavo I recommend Hotel Suisse, definitely the best in town, not on the main square, but only a few steps away. As far as I know the rooms in the Albrici don’t have private bathrooms.<BR><BR>In Chur I am also not sure, but I think you cannot fail with those:<BR>A very small and charming one is Zunfthaus R&auml;bl&uuml;ta www.rebleuten.ch (German).<BR>Romantikhotel Stern http://www.restaurant-calanda.ch/stern and Hotel Drei K&ouml;nige www.dreikoenige.ch (definitely book category Comfort) would be my next choices.<BR><BR>BTW, you will be surprised by the good shopping opportunities in Chur’s old town and its charming restaurants.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

Thanks, Ingo, for your great help. <BR>Yes, I checked the schedules and the route through Italy is out for us. Actually after checking the schedules, I've come up with the following sequence which seems to be the least total train travel times, backtracks the least, and allows the most times in each place:<BR>Weggis to Chur: 9:08 to 11:44(stay 3 nights)<BR>Chur to Poschiavo: 8:54 to 12:26 (stay 2 nights<BR>Poschiavo to Andermatt: 9:32 to 15:28 (stay 2 nights)<BR>Andermatt to Saas Fee: 8:30 to 11:12 (stay 3 nights)<BR><BR>My only question is with arriving late in Andermatt, but before noon in Saas Fee would we be smarter staying three nights in Andermatt and only 2 in Saas Fee -- or the other way round? After Saas Fee we will be staying four nights in Gstaad for specific dates and reasons.<BR>

Oops, forgot. Yes, I see in my outdated Swiss Hotels guide (with pictures)that the Albrici doesn't have private baths -- I had missed that. Do you have a website or email for the Hotel Suisse? It looks very nice as well and will now be our first choice.<BR><BR>I had also marked the Zunfthaus zur Rebleuten in Chur-- and appreciate your comments. We will try for that. Thanks for the websites for the hotels -- very helpful.

<BR>Patrick,<BR><BR>Here is the website of Hotel Suisse: http://www.suisse-poschiavo.ch/<BR><BR>I don’t really understand why you want to stay for two nights in Andermatt. Sorry, of course it is your choice. But I personally would not really know what to do there. It is quite good for hiking and skiing, but else … ? You could arrive Saas Fee 19:23 the same day … maybe a little late, but it should be manageable. If you really want to make a stop between Poschiavo and Saas Fee, what about Disentis? Just a thought. At least I would stay 3 nights in Saas Fee and 2 in Andermatt.<BR><BR>I must admit I have not stayed at Zunfthaus zur Rebleuten in Chur. But I had a wonderful dinner there. Very cosy, friendly staff, excellent food. After the dinner we enjoyed a drink in the nice bar.<BR><BR>I am sure you will enjoy your vacation.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

Not committed to Andermatt. Just went through on Glacier Express once and it looked so scenic, and several people have mentioned how beautiful it is there. Yes, we'd just spend a full day hiking and/or taking lifts up as I know there isn't much else to do, but thought the hiking would be great there. Is there better hiking or scenery in Disentis?<BR><BR>Or are you saying to add those two nights to somewhere else -- maybe 4 in Chur and 3 in Poschiavo? And if cutting out Andermatt, we could go from Weggis via Chur to Poschiavo on one day, then stay in Chur, shortening the trip to Saas Fee?<BR>

Hi Patrick - just a coincidental comment on Andermatt: it's the one place I've been dying to go to this year for hiking purposes but just didn't (distance question mostly...). Have hiked in the Engadine (mostly Pontresina and Sils Maria areas), Meiringen/Engstlenalp/Axalp, Adelboden, Sch&ouml;nried/Saanenmoser, Flims/Laax/Bargis, Villars, Les Diablerets, Crans Montana, Les Paccots, and some of the Jura, but darn, didn't make it to Andermatt. Ingo's probably right, there isn't much there, but I'd say this: what's really intriguing about Switzerland is that you can stay in some far-off places and really get away from &quot;tourism&quot;, then you can also go to more established and infrastructured places that will demonstrate how great the country is at what is does best. <BR><BR>So I'd say: if you've got the time to allow for a stunning, out-of-the-way place like Andermatt, then do so. P.S. There's the 3-star Hotel Drei Konige &amp; Post in the village, believe it has a modest sauna/wellness area to relax at the end of a hike (it's what I've come to really appreciate)!

I was re-thinking all this today. Maybe I am a little too much focused on the canton Graub&uuml;nden? J Anyway, considering that you will stay in so many places I think you should cut off Andermatt and add one day to Chur (or Poschiavo) and one to Saas Fee. In 1996 (?) I spent a full week in Saas Fee and it was not too long. And you are right, this would allow you to go via Chur directly to Poschiavo (BTW, I recommend via Landquart – Klosters – Vereinatunnel) and then to stay in Chur, from there directly to Saas Fee.<BR><BR>I agree with xxx’s general thoughts. But finally, putting all the preferences and emotional relations to Graub&uuml;nden away, I think I was more impressed by Disentis than Andermatt. I guess I loved the green meadows, woods, the magnificent monastery and quaint surrounding villages in Disentis – and I missed it in Andermatt. (I must admit I spent only one night in Hospenthal, the neighbouring village, though.) The views are stunning from the Gemsstock above Andermatt (cable car) as well as from Caischavedra/Gendusa above Disentis.<BR><BR>Ingo<BR>

Ingo, you and I are sort of on the same wavelength now. Although since we are now going all the way to Poschiavo from Weggis, we won't have much time that first day there, so two nights only gives us one full day. I think we will stay in Poschiavo for 3 nights giving us two full days -- you've already given us more than enough ideas to fill those two days. Then we'll stay in Chur for 4 nights, omit Andermatt, and stick with our three nights in Saas Fee. I think our hiking may be starting to wear thin by then and we still have our four more days in Gstaad.<BR>Sounds like a plan to me.

Sounds like the perfect plan to me, Patrick!<BR><BR>Leaving Weggis 10:08 and arr. Poschiavo 16:26 means that there is not much time on your first day. But you still have two days if you stay three nights! Perfect!<BR><BR>Just to &quot;torture&quot; you here is another option for a fantastic hike: Val da Camp/Valle di Campo, check http://www.sac-bernina.ch/htmls_englisch/index2.htm and click &quot;huts&quot; and then &quot;Rifugio Saoseo&quot;! It is a lovely, green valley with unbelievable bluish lakes. As far as I know there is a bus service from Poschiavo to Sfazu (-Ospizio Bernina) and from there a mini bus to the mountain hut (or hike from Sfazu). Unfortunately I could not check the schedules on sbb.ch, because there is a change in December.<BR><BR>Ingo

Ingo, you've got me interested in Poschiavo now as well. Let's see - one day in the hopefully not-too-distant future, it'll be: Andermatt/Disentis, then Poschiavo. Say over 1 week. Yum....

If you get the chance on a gorgeous July or August day definitely take one of the &quot;open top convertible&quot; aussichtswagen trains in Graubunden, either over the Bernina between Poschiavo and St.Moritz rather than the Bernina Express or Filisur to Preda. It's great and no special supplement/reservation required. You won't be disappointed.<BR><BR>http://www.rhb.ch/aussichtswagen/aussichtswagen.e.php<BR>http://www.rhb.ch/railrider/railrider.e.php