Poland --trip report
Jun 19th, 2007, 05:34 PM
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Poland --trip report
I am only going to describe the transportation issues in getting to and travelling around Poland. The guide books available have great information on sights. I like Rick Steves' books. I am a female in my 6o's, and I travelled alone for 3 1/2 weeks to Poland via Ireland.
One of my goals in travelling to Poland in May-June, 2007, was to avoid long flights, none more that 6-7 hours. I left on the first leg from Phoenix to New York (EWR) and visited with family for a few days. The second leg was from EWR to Dublin, Ireland, on Continental Airlines, followed four days later by a train trip to Belfast where I stayed several nights. EasyJet had a promotional fare from Belfast to Krakow for under $40US which worked out great. I bought the ticket over the internet before leaving the US. I spent a week in Krakow at the Wawel-Tourist Hotel. It had a great location, nice rooms and good food.
I got good advice from this site on intercity travel in Poland. I ended up buying my train ticket in Krakow to Warsaw with the help of the Tourist Information Office. The helpful, friendly staff printed the train schedule, wrote my requirements in Polish on a paper to give to the ticket agent at the train station. The ticket agent was cranky at first, but ended up smiling and friendly. I travelled light (one 35 lb. suitcase) so the few stairs were no problem. There are elevators and escalators at most stations but the elevators are not usually working. The writing in the train stations is in Polish, but everything is pretty obvious. The young people usually speak English, the older speak Russian and/or German in addition to Polish.
The train ride to Warsaw was very pleasant. I booked a first class passage and was put into a train car (wagon) with separate compartments which was too isolated, so I moved to an open car. I had heard that Polish trains have some safety problems. I would not take a night train, and I think most of the problems are on the southern border near Czech Republic and Slovakia. When I questioned the young Polish woman if they would travel by train they all said Day trains were fine and safe.
When I arrived at the Warsaw Central Station I went to the Information Office, where they speak English, and bought my future train ticket to Gdansk. In Warsaw, I stayed at the Bristol Hotel, my splurge for the trip--old style elegance, great location. They are remodeling.
After five days in Warsaw, I took the train to Gdansk and was again very pleased with the comfort and efficiency of the train system. In Gdansk, I took a cab to the hotel. All the cab drivers I encountered were honest and helpful. I had a printout of each hotel with the address from their website so the taxi drivers who didn't speak any English knew where I wanted to go.
Gdansk is a great place to visit in warm weather. I stayed at Kamineca Goldwasser, a restaurant with a few rooms to rent above the restaurant. I had a beautiful two room suite overlooking the river and all the action. The Polish and German people go there for their vacations. It has everything--great architecture, history, crafts, Baltic Sea, beautiful town squares, a dozen museums. It is overlooked by Americans. It was my favorite city, although Krakow was amazing and Warsaw very worthwhile to visit for 3-4 days.
I left Gdansk on Centralwings Airlines to Shannon, Ireland again on a promotional rate. The discount airlines in Europe are reallly low cost if you book a month ahead. I had booked Centralwings in the US before leaving. The flight was on time, pleasant, comfortable, not crowded. I had three seats to myself.
I took a bus from Shannon Airport to Galway, Ireland and spent four days there before returning to New York out of Shannon. An overnight at EWR where I met my daughter for dinner and then home to Phoenix the next day.
It was a great trip, interesting, relaxing, adventuous, a little out of my comfort zone, but accompanied by a feeling of growth. It lacked the companionship of a family member or friend, but had other delights.
I'd be glad to answer any specific question.
One of my goals in travelling to Poland in May-June, 2007, was to avoid long flights, none more that 6-7 hours. I left on the first leg from Phoenix to New York (EWR) and visited with family for a few days. The second leg was from EWR to Dublin, Ireland, on Continental Airlines, followed four days later by a train trip to Belfast where I stayed several nights. EasyJet had a promotional fare from Belfast to Krakow for under $40US which worked out great. I bought the ticket over the internet before leaving the US. I spent a week in Krakow at the Wawel-Tourist Hotel. It had a great location, nice rooms and good food.
I got good advice from this site on intercity travel in Poland. I ended up buying my train ticket in Krakow to Warsaw with the help of the Tourist Information Office. The helpful, friendly staff printed the train schedule, wrote my requirements in Polish on a paper to give to the ticket agent at the train station. The ticket agent was cranky at first, but ended up smiling and friendly. I travelled light (one 35 lb. suitcase) so the few stairs were no problem. There are elevators and escalators at most stations but the elevators are not usually working. The writing in the train stations is in Polish, but everything is pretty obvious. The young people usually speak English, the older speak Russian and/or German in addition to Polish.
The train ride to Warsaw was very pleasant. I booked a first class passage and was put into a train car (wagon) with separate compartments which was too isolated, so I moved to an open car. I had heard that Polish trains have some safety problems. I would not take a night train, and I think most of the problems are on the southern border near Czech Republic and Slovakia. When I questioned the young Polish woman if they would travel by train they all said Day trains were fine and safe.
When I arrived at the Warsaw Central Station I went to the Information Office, where they speak English, and bought my future train ticket to Gdansk. In Warsaw, I stayed at the Bristol Hotel, my splurge for the trip--old style elegance, great location. They are remodeling.
After five days in Warsaw, I took the train to Gdansk and was again very pleased with the comfort and efficiency of the train system. In Gdansk, I took a cab to the hotel. All the cab drivers I encountered were honest and helpful. I had a printout of each hotel with the address from their website so the taxi drivers who didn't speak any English knew where I wanted to go.
Gdansk is a great place to visit in warm weather. I stayed at Kamineca Goldwasser, a restaurant with a few rooms to rent above the restaurant. I had a beautiful two room suite overlooking the river and all the action. The Polish and German people go there for their vacations. It has everything--great architecture, history, crafts, Baltic Sea, beautiful town squares, a dozen museums. It is overlooked by Americans. It was my favorite city, although Krakow was amazing and Warsaw very worthwhile to visit for 3-4 days.
I left Gdansk on Centralwings Airlines to Shannon, Ireland again on a promotional rate. The discount airlines in Europe are reallly low cost if you book a month ahead. I had booked Centralwings in the US before leaving. The flight was on time, pleasant, comfortable, not crowded. I had three seats to myself.
I took a bus from Shannon Airport to Galway, Ireland and spent four days there before returning to New York out of Shannon. An overnight at EWR where I met my daughter for dinner and then home to Phoenix the next day.
It was a great trip, interesting, relaxing, adventuous, a little out of my comfort zone, but accompanied by a feeling of growth. It lacked the companionship of a family member or friend, but had other delights.
I'd be glad to answer any specific question.
Jun 19th, 2007, 09:36 PM
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Klam-
I'm topping this because of the great information and it dropped way too quickly.
What made you decide to go to Poland? I have to admit it is not in my top 10 places. Seems very adventurous, expecially traveling alone. My daughter drove there several times while she was living in Germany - mostly to buy pottery, which is beautiful.
I'm topping this because of the great information and it dropped way too quickly.
What made you decide to go to Poland? I have to admit it is not in my top 10 places. Seems very adventurous, expecially traveling alone. My daughter drove there several times while she was living in Germany - mostly to buy pottery, which is beautiful.
Jun 20th, 2007, 05:46 PM
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You have written a very interesting and useful trip report. I would be interested in reading about your perspective of the sights you saw, even if they books have great information. I loved Gdansk but only spent a few hours there. I have always wondered what else I missed.
Jun 21st, 2007, 05:39 PM
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Hi,
I'll try again to address your questions. I spent quite a lot of time writing yesterday and now I find that my reply didn't post on the main page, but I can see my descriptions of the reason I chose Poland on the side of the page of this reply. If you are interested, try selecting "reply" and see if you have it also. I hope this posts.
From Gdansk it is possible to travel to the important and impressive castle located in Malbork, a 40 minute train ride to the south. It is on the train route from Warsaw to Gdansk. I chose to backtrack after checking into my hotel. It is the largest castle in Europe and made of brick, built by the teutonic knights returning from the crusades who then ruled the area for several hundred years. It has been restored and it is well worth the effort to get there. Lots of visitors.
My room in Gdansk looked over the Motlawa river and the quay next to the ancient crane which is Gdansk's symbol. Hugh masted ships came by several times a day full of visitors. There were flowers everywhere and school groups and visitors walked along the quay in a holiday spirit. The crane on is part of a large marintine museum, part of which is reached by a small ferry carrying passengers across the river. There are ancient granaries, magnificent churches, Hanseatic architecture, pedestrian streets (Long Street and the very beautiful and mysterious St. Mary's street), with the old town gates, an armory, art museum in what was the Old Town City Hall, sculptures including the memorial to the men who lost their lives protesting communist decisions at the shipyards. The museum there is being redone and wasn't open.
Many people were kyaking, sailboating, jet boating. I did not go to Sopot, but is one of the three cities that make up this tricity area, and there is found the longest wooden pier in Europe and a sand beach, and other water activities. Ferry rides are possible on the Baltic to the small southern section of Russia just north of Poland. Also Ferries to other parts of Poland on the Baltic Sea. I didn't go there, but will the next time I am able to visit.
The amber craft is well represented in all the small shops in the old section. There is an amber museum and well as a half dozen other museums Restaurants are great.
Gdynia (the third city) has an aquarium, but is generally considered less interesting for visitors, but the highest income in Poland is found here.
The feature I especially like about the Gdansk is that you can walk everywhere, even to the train station. It is very compact.
I'll try again to address your questions. I spent quite a lot of time writing yesterday and now I find that my reply didn't post on the main page, but I can see my descriptions of the reason I chose Poland on the side of the page of this reply. If you are interested, try selecting "reply" and see if you have it also. I hope this posts.
From Gdansk it is possible to travel to the important and impressive castle located in Malbork, a 40 minute train ride to the south. It is on the train route from Warsaw to Gdansk. I chose to backtrack after checking into my hotel. It is the largest castle in Europe and made of brick, built by the teutonic knights returning from the crusades who then ruled the area for several hundred years. It has been restored and it is well worth the effort to get there. Lots of visitors.
My room in Gdansk looked over the Motlawa river and the quay next to the ancient crane which is Gdansk's symbol. Hugh masted ships came by several times a day full of visitors. There were flowers everywhere and school groups and visitors walked along the quay in a holiday spirit. The crane on is part of a large marintine museum, part of which is reached by a small ferry carrying passengers across the river. There are ancient granaries, magnificent churches, Hanseatic architecture, pedestrian streets (Long Street and the very beautiful and mysterious St. Mary's street), with the old town gates, an armory, art museum in what was the Old Town City Hall, sculptures including the memorial to the men who lost their lives protesting communist decisions at the shipyards. The museum there is being redone and wasn't open.
Many people were kyaking, sailboating, jet boating. I did not go to Sopot, but is one of the three cities that make up this tricity area, and there is found the longest wooden pier in Europe and a sand beach, and other water activities. Ferry rides are possible on the Baltic to the small southern section of Russia just north of Poland. Also Ferries to other parts of Poland on the Baltic Sea. I didn't go there, but will the next time I am able to visit.
The amber craft is well represented in all the small shops in the old section. There is an amber museum and well as a half dozen other museums Restaurants are great.
Gdynia (the third city) has an aquarium, but is generally considered less interesting for visitors, but the highest income in Poland is found here.
The feature I especially like about the Gdansk is that you can walk everywhere, even to the train station. It is very compact.
Jun 21st, 2007, 06:05 PM
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Thank you for your report. I hope you will continue with more information (what, I don't know 
However, Poland is up-top on my places to visit and all info is appreciated.
I have used Rick Steves' books extensively and found them very good. Did not know he had one on Poland. Thx
However, Poland is up-top on my places to visit and all info is appreciated.I have used Rick Steves' books extensively and found them very good. Did not know he had one on Poland. Thx
Jun 22nd, 2007, 04:31 PM
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Since I'm not currently planning a trip to Poland I don't have any specific questions but am so glad to posted here. I was just looking forward to you continuing your report, which you did. Thank you.
Jun 22nd, 2007, 04:41 PM
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Klam,
I tried the "reply" trick, but there was no explanation on why you went to Poland in the left hand column; just the text that is on the main page. Is a puzzlement!
Perhaps you could copy and paste, as inquiring minds would like to know.
Great trip report!
I tried the "reply" trick, but there was no explanation on why you went to Poland in the left hand column; just the text that is on the main page. Is a puzzlement!
Perhaps you could copy and paste, as inquiring minds would like to know.
Great trip report!
Jun 23rd, 2007, 07:17 AM
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Author: Klam
Date: 06/20/2007, 01:23 pm
LCBonti,
Several reasons for selecting Poland for my trip: (1) I'm of the age that I am personally aware of WWII and the struggles of Poland and wanted to see first hand how the people were doing and the historical sights from that period as well as the medieval. I was also interested in Gdansk area due to the events centered around the Solidarity Movement and the fall of communism. I visited the shipyard area and monument where Lech Walesa led the men to strike. I have always considered that heroic and wanted to see the shipyard area. I was surprised at how much else Gdansk offered.
The unemployment rate is high in Poland-around 16%-- but to an outsider the country looks like it is developing well. The bombed areas have been rebuilt as they had been before the war. The buildings look very authenic, not "Disneylandish," Some people criticise the replicas, but I thought them beautiful and appropriate. They are back where they were in 1930's.
Large number of Poles are going to Ireland for work , the first time in Irish history to have an influx of people looking for work. Many of the wait staff and clerks in the hotels are the young Poles.
(2) Prices in Poland are lower than Western Europe. Nice meals were affordable. I didn't expect to enjoy the food as much as I did. The Polish food was very good. One new item to me was serving a soft goosefat (in place of butter) with bread topped with diced onions for an appetizer. Can't do that very often, but it was tasty. The other condiment served with the bread was red peppers (perhaps paprika peppers) blended into a spread--spicy and good. Italian food is very popular and Italian restaurants are found around all the squares.
(3)My husband and I travelled through Czech Republic,Slovakia, and Hungary last year. I was disappointed at that time that we could not include Poland, and so this trip was, in a way, completing that adventure. If I had to choose one country to reture to it would be Poland. They are ready for visitors. The Germans have been going there for many years, and the Baltic area is a favorite place of the Polish people to spend the summer.
(4) My daughter has been invited to teach dance at a two-week workshop this summer in southern Poland. I wanted to go and see if I thought it was a safe place for a young woman. Don't tell her. She would be annoyed.
(5)I don't usually travel alone, but I enjoyed the novelty and adventurousness of it. I took me out of my comfort zone. I usually rely on my husband for luggage handling, etc. So I feel a little stronger, competent, and confident with the solo travel and Poland was more of a stretch that Western Europe. I only speak English. I have travelled a lot, in Europe and Asia, so thought I knew how to handle language problems.
Poland is beautiful and ready for visitors. There were very few Americans. It seemed to me that most visitors were Germans, some English, but the greatest number were Poles enjoying their country. You heard the Polish language 99% of the time.
I should point out that I stayed in the old center of the towns I visited. I'm sure the suburbs are not as quaint and interesting and since much of them was built by the communist regimes, they are ugly. But the central squares and surrounding areas are a delight.
Date: 06/20/2007, 01:23 pm
LCBonti,
Several reasons for selecting Poland for my trip: (1) I'm of the age that I am personally aware of WWII and the struggles of Poland and wanted to see first hand how the people were doing and the historical sights from that period as well as the medieval. I was also interested in Gdansk area due to the events centered around the Solidarity Movement and the fall of communism. I visited the shipyard area and monument where Lech Walesa led the men to strike. I have always considered that heroic and wanted to see the shipyard area. I was surprised at how much else Gdansk offered.
The unemployment rate is high in Poland-around 16%-- but to an outsider the country looks like it is developing well. The bombed areas have been rebuilt as they had been before the war. The buildings look very authenic, not "Disneylandish," Some people criticise the replicas, but I thought them beautiful and appropriate. They are back where they were in 1930's.
Large number of Poles are going to Ireland for work , the first time in Irish history to have an influx of people looking for work. Many of the wait staff and clerks in the hotels are the young Poles.
(2) Prices in Poland are lower than Western Europe. Nice meals were affordable. I didn't expect to enjoy the food as much as I did. The Polish food was very good. One new item to me was serving a soft goosefat (in place of butter) with bread topped with diced onions for an appetizer. Can't do that very often, but it was tasty. The other condiment served with the bread was red peppers (perhaps paprika peppers) blended into a spread--spicy and good. Italian food is very popular and Italian restaurants are found around all the squares.
(3)My husband and I travelled through Czech Republic,Slovakia, and Hungary last year. I was disappointed at that time that we could not include Poland, and so this trip was, in a way, completing that adventure. If I had to choose one country to reture to it would be Poland. They are ready for visitors. The Germans have been going there for many years, and the Baltic area is a favorite place of the Polish people to spend the summer.
(4) My daughter has been invited to teach dance at a two-week workshop this summer in southern Poland. I wanted to go and see if I thought it was a safe place for a young woman. Don't tell her. She would be annoyed.
(5)I don't usually travel alone, but I enjoyed the novelty and adventurousness of it. I took me out of my comfort zone. I usually rely on my husband for luggage handling, etc. So I feel a little stronger, competent, and confident with the solo travel and Poland was more of a stretch that Western Europe. I only speak English. I have travelled a lot, in Europe and Asia, so thought I knew how to handle language problems.
Poland is beautiful and ready for visitors. There were very few Americans. It seemed to me that most visitors were Germans, some English, but the greatest number were Poles enjoying their country. You heard the Polish language 99% of the time.
I should point out that I stayed in the old center of the towns I visited. I'm sure the suburbs are not as quaint and interesting and since much of them was built by the communist regimes, they are ugly. But the central squares and surrounding areas are a delight.
Jun 23rd, 2007, 10:00 AM
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Thank you again, Klam! Most interesting, partly because my Wife's mother came from Poland. You make a trip to Poland sound doable and enjoyable.
Wife and Mother went back to Poland for a visit almost 40 years ago. The Mother is now in her 90s, so she could not go, but I know my wife would enjoy such a trip. Perhaps I will surprise her.
Wife and Mother went back to Poland for a visit almost 40 years ago. The Mother is now in her 90s, so she could not go, but I know my wife would enjoy such a trip. Perhaps I will surprise her.
Jun 23rd, 2007, 09:04 PM
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Great trip report regarding Poland. When we were in Kracow, we visited the small museum devoted to Shindler's List fame. I just read that a larger one will be opening in 2008.
We also took the tour to nearby Auschwitz. A memorable, if sad, experience.
Rosemary
We also took the tour to nearby Auschwitz. A memorable, if sad, experience.
Rosemary
Jun 24th, 2007, 08:38 AM
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PeterB,
I want to thank you again for all the good advice and help in planning the ground transportation. I travelled light and after walking through the train station in Krakow, and talking to several women, I decided I could handle the train. I took your schedules and Polish language phrases with me. A young woman at the tourist information office took charge of me, and so I used her latest information. I think I could have handled the purchase of train tickets without her help if I had to, but everything worked well.
Thanks again for taking so much time to help and inform.
I want to thank you again for all the good advice and help in planning the ground transportation. I travelled light and after walking through the train station in Krakow, and talking to several women, I decided I could handle the train. I took your schedules and Polish language phrases with me. A young woman at the tourist information office took charge of me, and so I used her latest information. I think I could have handled the purchase of train tickets without her help if I had to, but everything worked well.
Thanks again for taking so much time to help and inform.
Jun 24th, 2007, 12:09 PM
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Klem: My pleasure but really you did it yourself - got over any fears - and just did it on your own - proving to yourself you really can do anything What's next on your list? ex-russian republics are nice and cheap to visit ... what ever it is anyone traveling with you should consider themselves lucky ;-)
but really you did it yourself - got over any fears - and just did it on your own - proving to yourself you really can do anything What's next on your list? ex-russian republics are nice and cheap to visit ... what ever it is anyone traveling with you should consider themselves lucky ;-)
Jul 6th, 2007, 03:51 PM
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Hello posters,
I have just returned from a 3 mth motorhome trip of the uk and europe. we visited poland for 2 weeks in our motorhome and even though I know I am going to regret saying this, it was absolutely fantastic.
I say regret, because one of the first things we noticed when we arrived was the lack of tourist hordes we experienced in western europe especially in italy.
It will only be a matter of time before more people find out about these eastern/central european gems and unfortunately they will eventually become as popular as the more iconic european locations one must visit on a trip to europe. I guess at the end of the day thats progress and one has to accept it as such.
But there is no doubt, IMHO if you do your research, Poland quickly becomes a "must see" destination.
Trip
I have just returned from a 3 mth motorhome trip of the uk and europe. we visited poland for 2 weeks in our motorhome and even though I know I am going to regret saying this, it was absolutely fantastic.
I say regret, because one of the first things we noticed when we arrived was the lack of tourist hordes we experienced in western europe especially in italy.
It will only be a matter of time before more people find out about these eastern/central european gems and unfortunately they will eventually become as popular as the more iconic european locations one must visit on a trip to europe. I guess at the end of the day thats progress and one has to accept it as such.
But there is no doubt, IMHO if you do your research, Poland quickly becomes a "must see" destination.
Trip
Aug 6th, 2007, 08:23 AM
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Greetings Klam,
When you took the train from Warsaw to Gdansk, did you go first class? I'm visiting Poland for my first time this fall and will be taking a side trip from Warsaw to Gdansk and back on my own. I'm wondering if there is a big difference in between 1st and 2nd class. Do all the trains have an open car? Not sure the compartments would be my preference.
When you took the train from Warsaw to Gdansk, did you go first class? I'm visiting Poland for my first time this fall and will be taking a side trip from Warsaw to Gdansk and back on my own. I'm wondering if there is a big difference in between 1st and 2nd class. Do all the trains have an open car? Not sure the compartments would be my preference.
Aug 6th, 2007, 12:58 PM
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jma_travels
I'm not KLAM but I did make a similar trip this year so I will offer what I learned. We took the train from Malbork (near Gdansk and same train line) to Warsaw and Warsaw to Krakow. We were in first class on both trains. The train cars held a number of compartments for 6. On both trains we were the only people in our compartment and most 1st class compartments had one couple or group and some were empty. I did not walk through the second class cars but based upon the number of people getting into the cars I assume they were more crowded than 1st just like elsewhere in Europe.
A friend of mine who is Polish encouraged us to go in 2nd rather than 1st. She said the only difference is that coffee, tea and water are free in first. However, we opted for 2nd class on a trip last summer in the Netherlands and had to stand in the aisle for much of the trip since there were too many people so we were relectant to try it again. In September I doubt you would have an issue with trains being that full.
Enjoy Gdansk. We found it to be a very nice city.
I'm not KLAM but I did make a similar trip this year so I will offer what I learned. We took the train from Malbork (near Gdansk and same train line) to Warsaw and Warsaw to Krakow. We were in first class on both trains. The train cars held a number of compartments for 6. On both trains we were the only people in our compartment and most 1st class compartments had one couple or group and some were empty. I did not walk through the second class cars but based upon the number of people getting into the cars I assume they were more crowded than 1st just like elsewhere in Europe.
A friend of mine who is Polish encouraged us to go in 2nd rather than 1st. She said the only difference is that coffee, tea and water are free in first. However, we opted for 2nd class on a trip last summer in the Netherlands and had to stand in the aisle for much of the trip since there were too many people so we were relectant to try it again. In September I doubt you would have an issue with trains being that full.
Enjoy Gdansk. We found it to be a very nice city.
Aug 12th, 2007, 10:02 AM
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jma_travels: 1st class will have compartments - 2nd class in most cases on those longer distance trains will also have compartments vs open cars which are reserved for more of the local trains ... Also it really depands when you be traveling in fall - where there are parts of the season when students and others are returning from their vacations - 2nd class then gets full to it's rims ... BTW tea/coffee service is not free - but yes it's only available in first class (but not on all trips)...
I always get 1st class and when I feel to sit in 2nd class I can with no problem from a conductor vs a 2nd class ticket holder on packed train need to talk to conductor (in Polish) to be allowed to pay addtional ticket fees to be in first class (which by then may also have no seats left) ...
Once in Poland ask in your hotel what they would recommand considering a specific day of the week - then decide - and if still not sure go with 1st class ticket.
I always get 1st class and when I feel to sit in 2nd class I can with no problem from a conductor vs a 2nd class ticket holder on packed train need to talk to conductor (in Polish) to be allowed to pay addtional ticket fees to be in first class (which by then may also have no seats left) ...
Once in Poland ask in your hotel what they would recommand considering a specific day of the week - then decide - and if still not sure go with 1st class ticket.
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