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Poland and the Czech Republic - ongoing report!

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Poland and the Czech Republic - ongoing report!

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Old Aug 11th, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Oh and there's also this: http://www.spottedbylocals.com/
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:46 PM
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Big update

Day 29: Monday 8th August

Started the day by visiting the castle for souvenirs. I wanted to pick up a decorated box, one with a textured map of old Europe on. This cost 55PLN which I thought was a fair price. The castle itself was mostly closed, only three exhibits open, and only the dragon exhibit and tower had tickets left.

After, we headed towards the centre of the altstadt and, due to diminished funds my parents decided to exchange £50 into PLN. For this they got 227 Zloty, the equivalent of a 4.54 exchange rate. This compared to 4.04 at the post office. The 4.54 was at a random Kantor without shopping around (or asking how much they would get!!)

From here we went into the stalls in the centre. After oggling the (rather expensive) Amber, we settled on a chess set and smaller box. The chess set weighed around 2kg, but as I am not carrying it I didn't worry too much.

I let my parents go into St. Mary's Basilica. Having already been in once I didn't feel a second visit was necessary. Outside (and before they went in) people had gathered around the area where you enter. After wondering why for a minute why everyone was filming the roof we saw the Bugler appear in an upper window of the tower. He played and everyone below clapped and cheered (!!??). I believe that the bugler is there on the hour every hour. 

By the time we wandered away from the Basilica it was about a quarter past one. I was supposed to catch the half twelve train, then the half two train, heading to Wroclaw. For a leaving lunch we ended up back at Pod Wawelem. I guess that my Dad wanted one of their more spectacular dishes. So our third visit in four days, almost regulars. I pointed out that my parents should have stayed in the hotel there, as they stayed a 15 minute walk away across the river. 

Anyway, for food, the three dishes ordered were a lamb sausage with bacon wrapped around, a ham and cheese toastie (without the toast and with breaded..) and finally my dad ordered a pork and chicken kebab. Advertised as a meal for one, it's description is a little ambitious. Easily enough food for two, it's wooden platter covered half the table. A huge kebab, with wedges, sauerkraut and sauces plus rice and an apple that is on fire. I have a picture somewhere, as does a woman from the table opposite who asked to take one (it really was that spectacular). At 30PLN, it wasn't an expensive dish either. Spent about 131PLN, though 36 was on 3 Lemon Vodka shots (disgusting I might add, though that is personal preference).

Anyway, by now it was quarter to 3, having missed my half 2 train, I now needed to get the half 3. Bid farewell to my parents and having seen that it was drizzling, I lobbed my anorak on and my waterproof cover over my bag. People probably wondered what I was doing given that it was only drizzling/spitting with rain. Needless to say, halfway through my 20 minute walk it began throwing it down. Made my train with two minutes to spare, grabbed a seat and sat down.

The journey was five hours from Krakow to Wroclaw and around four hours in someone got on at the other end of the train and, like in Britain, started blasting music out of their phone. Now in England you just put up with it for fear of getting stabbed. Not in Poland. A guy (7 foot tall at least) asked her to switch it off and when she didn't, five minutes later simply got up and gave her and the phone a good smack. After which the boyfriend (think stereotypical small chav) turned up and started mouthing off (but was never going to do anything simply as the other guy was so tall), finally the conductor turned up to prevent the guy from getting off, and as I left the train at Wroclaw the police turned up.

Anyway, I reached Wroclaw at around 8:30 and was instantly lost. The whole station is undergoing renovation and I exited at the back of the station. Thereby losing any sense of direction. I wandered around for an hour, contemplated finding a taxi but eventually four the ticket office and a place selling Zapiekanki. After this pizza like snack I again wandered out the station and after a few minutes and by some miracle came across a group of Australian/Malaysian/Japanese guys (and women) on a post wedding holiday. Turns out that they were lost as well, but had iPhones to aid them. I asked if I could tag along (to the altstadt) and half an hour later was much closer to my hostel.

Again I became lost just streets away from my hostel. I ambled in the general direction and looked lost, so much so that a drunk pole came up and attempted to help. Having lost all hope I accepted him guiding me around whilst he asked various taxi drivers. After a while we reached the hostel, about 50m from where I had originally been standing a quarter of an hour earlier. I offered to buy the guy a beer for his efforts but he refused. Two hours from station to hostel.....
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:48 PM
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Day 30: Tuesday 9th August

Got up fairly early, didn't help that you can hear the road as loud as if you are standing on it in the dorm room (and one window refuses to close). No real plans whilst here so I just wander. Went to the church with the bridge from which you can have a panoramic view in two directions. Legend has it that two women who refused to marry and instead chose to enjoy life were cursed to forever sweep clean the bridge. Anyway, after a massive walk up... I walked down again, not much more to say. Worth a trek if you are up to it.

After this I went to the post office and bought an envelope using good old sign language. Back to the hostel and with some help (got the guy at reception to translate a request for a stamp for me) sent some postcards off.

Had a pizza for lunch, 16 Zloty Inc. a coke. Again wandered, browsed Empik, bought some more water from the supermarket and then back to the hostel to catch up on the riots.

Glad to relax for a day after krakow and travelling, tired and need more sleep though.

In the evening I bought some ice tea (Nestea), tomatoes, rolls, tuna and smoked salmon (cost £4.50) and devoured the lot then slept.
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:49 PM
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Day 31: Wednesday 10th Aug

Another unproductive day, I don't really know what I accomplished today, just bought a paper, read it and ate ice cream/walked round the square.

I should point out that Wroclaw is another contender for the European City of Culture 2016 but, unlike Lublin, I would say that it's centre may actually warrant the title. A nice central square, churches, old architecture and what looks like a castle being renovated.

Changed 200 spare PLN to Czech Kronor, 1100 plus 10.90 Zloty back. So I was within 5 CZk of the real value. Down to my last 26 PLN, I bought a map and some paper for 22.50 and spent 2.50 on water and was down to my last Zloty. Headed back to the hostel to sleep.
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:51 PM
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Day 32: Thursday 11th Europe

Up early and walked to the station, half hour walk if you know the way. Along the way I was asked for polish money for beer by someone. I handed over my final Zloty in small denomination coins quite happily.

Made it to the 9:54 train to Kolozko which begins my journey to Olomouc. Old school system at Kolozko, no LED boards here, in fact nothing that seemed to require power at all. But they had a paper timetable up with departure time and vitally platform for each train. I made the 20 minute connection in five minutes as the train was already there. Next stop the Czech. 

Supposed to get off at Ulici nad Uland (something like that anyway). End up getting off at the wrong station, a little shack in the middle of nowhere. 4 km walk to try and catch the connection as the next train isn't for an hour. Got to Ulici... But it was Ulici miesto (again roughly), wrong station! A quick call to my parents gets me a google map direction of 1KM along the river to the correct station. Instead of getting to 14:40 to Olomouc I ended up on the 16:40 and arrived at 15:57.

Walked the 35 minutes to the hostel then relaxed and talked a bit to people, went out for a tomato soup, risotto and a beer (total cost 250CZK Inc tip).

Tired from travelling, time for sleep.
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:52 PM
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Music hostel lodz: a review

This hostel is located on the main street of lodz and is surrounded by restaurants plus is near to the station.

Reception is good, loads of maps around, friendly staff and a secure building (key for building, room and can use lockers).

The dorms are pretty compact, not tiny but not roomy either, could do with a few more plug points as well. Beds were wooden and creaked a fair bit when people climbed up. Linens provided, but no towels.

Common area is good, sofas, kitchen area with a free breakfast in the mornings and standard stuff like microwave/hob/toaster plus a big TV and of course a big radio/hi fi thing. Wifi as well.

Things were clean and the facilities were good (very modern look), two showers and two toilets, plus free use of a washing machine.

Pretty much all you want in a hostel and for a good price.
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:53 PM
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Travellers Inn hostel krakow: a review

This place is a more relaxed hostel, expect heavy drinking, loud nights and a good time. Pretty good location as well.

The reception is 24h and you must be buzzed into the hostel when you want to enter. No locks on room doors, but huge lockers which make up for it. The main door is soundproofed and the road is quiet (cul-de-sac).

Facilities are good, free laundry (with a dryer), two showers and two toilets which have paper towels (nice to have these when hands are wet). Two computers available, wifi, huge bean bags, a sofa, hi fi, board games to name just some things. Oh and free breakfast in the mornings! (plus dinner on a Thursday).

Cleanliness is ok, could do with washing the floors a bit and fixing one of the showers, plus on my last morning the water was out (entire street) but the hostel weren't expecting it for another four hours...

The dorms were fine, large and with wooden beds. Little creaky. However, they have not yet changed the doors in the building from residential ones, ie one dorm has two glass window doors that lead to the common area off it. They can't be opened but spill sound through them. Makes it very loud for people inside, similar, though less concerning fact for the other dorms.

Almost everything was good here, except the failure to hostelise the residence by changing tue soundproofing of doors, for that reason it is 4/5.
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 01:55 PM
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Boogie hostel, Wroclaw: a review

This hostel is on the third floor of a building that is 400m from the central historical square plus has a pub downstairs.

The reception seemed to be 24h, but not 100% on that. Receptionists were exceptionally helpful, especially with translations. Rooms were locked and each bed had its own locker, plus no deposit was required.

Facilities were good, loads of space given over to a separate kitchen and lounge area and a separate reception as well. Loads of sofas, and tv channels on the big tv in the lounge. One computer and free wifi through most of the hostel (it didn't seem to reach my room....). Free breakfast as well, cereal and bread with jams or honey.

Dorm rooms were OK, few minor issues, such as the noise level, a window wouldn't close and the room overlooked the main road, this meant we heard everything going on very loudly throughout the night. Also the beds creaked a lot! Any movement was loud, and the beds were metal bunks.

Cleanliness was mixed, the toilets were clean but the floors needed a scrub. I saw 4 toilets and a minimum of 3 showers. Kitchen was clean, some cutlery and plates not so much. 

Hostel caters for families in their private rooms as well, so atmosphere is less party orientated than most places. Lots of people seem to stop off fora night or two. Not a massive amount to see in the town itself.

Major downsides here are the creaky beds and loud dorms. Though that's not too bad for the price and may not be true for all rooms. 4/5.
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Old Aug 12th, 2011, 03:32 PM
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Wow Alex, your adventures continue, I see !
I commend you once again for your hardiness and good spirit - good on you mate. I'm still enjoying the adventure through your experiences but think you are a lot more daring and patient than many who will be reading this detailed travelogue.

You mentioned pictures - any chance that you may post some now or when you get back home ? It would be great to see some of the scenic places you've described, as well as the restaurants and food you've eaten, and of course, the infamous hostels !

Travel well and stay safe,

M
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Old Aug 13th, 2011, 04:50 AM
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So this is a continuing review as you travel? Lots of details for sure. I wonder you can take the time for Fodors. But you are indeed seeing Poland. Glad you got to Zakopane for a day as it is a lovely trip and place. And Krakow is a wonderful old city. Hopefully you will get to the Jewish quarter Kazimierz. Artistic Cafe in hotel Alef is where Spielberg relaxed during the film of of "Schindler's List." In fact, Schindler was here too. I am wondering if his former factory nearby is now open to tourists. But I do hope you get to Auschwitz-Berkenau as I believe everyone should go if in Krakow. Let humanity forever remember!

Bill in Boston
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Old Aug 13th, 2011, 05:30 AM
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<i>I am wondering if his former factory nearby is now open to tourists.</i>

It re-opened last year as part of Krakow Historical Museum with exhibition of Krakow under the Nazis. It's very well presented with English explanations, lots of fascinating (and some disturbing) photos and artefacts. Well worth a couple of hours it takes to go around. It provided for us a good introduction to our visit to Auschwitz-Birkenau. On site there is also a brand-new contemporary art museum (separate entry charge).
http://www.mhk.pl/oddzialy/fabryka_schindlera
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Old Aug 21st, 2011, 12:21 PM
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@ Mathieu
Thanks for the reply, I do have pictures (like 800), though cant upload them until I return home.

@ Ozarksbill
I did not (unfortunately) have time to visit Auschwitz before moving on. Maybe this will have to be returned to at a future date.

@Alec
Also it is open pretty late (until 20:00 most days) so you can do other things early in the day and this museum in the afternoon when other things are closing.
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Old Aug 21st, 2011, 12:28 PM
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Day 33: Friday 12th August

Woke up around ten after I had slept well for about ten hours. Made a quick trip to the supermarket for breakfast and lunch, bought water, two croissants, two cheese topped rolls and a large pizza slice. I should point out that a 1.5L bottle of water was only 4.90 CZK, or about 18 pence. Evian eat your heart out. Ate the croissants and added the rest to my backpack.

Back at the hostel I hired out a trekking bike (and helmet - as I always try to when cycling abroad) for 200 CZK for the day.  No real aim except to head towards the lake (was ready for the off at 11am) which was 5 km away. My sense of direction prevailed and I spent an hour trying to navigate my way out of the city, eventually found the route, about 100m from my hostel. I think my sense of direction has been steadily eroding recently.

Anyway, the 5 km to the lake went by pretty quick, the cycle routes here are awesome. A mix of Tarmac, dirt and boggy bits. Serious speeds can be reached over the 1 km straights you hit. I ended up having a snack at the lake (the rolls), before cycling another 5 km to a small town with a restaurant where I had the spiciest spaghetti ever. I wondered what the woman was gesturing about when I ordered, with here fingers waving over her mouth, as neither of us spoke each others language it was a little hard. Two beers and the meal cost 110 CZK, I left 150 as it really wasn't much money for what I ate.

I cycled on, down route 51 to Litovel. Due to my awful sense of direction I took diversions at least 3 times both on the way there and back. Instead of a 21 km ride each way, it turned into more like 30, especially when my hour lost in Olomouc was considered.

I actually got to Litovel and only stayed for about half an hour for a very chemical tasting strawberry ice thing. Not a lot going on there today. But tomorrow they have a beer festival (too tired to cycle there again, and predictions of rain tomorrow). On the way back had a beer (3rd of the day....).

Cycled back at a good speed, only got overtaken by about 5 OAP's (nothing against them but I am supposed to be young and *cough* full of energy *cough*). Only saw one dead snake on the way back. Got back to the hostel muddy and very tired, showered and ended up going for a meal with three guys from the hostel (from the US, Italy and Zambia). Drunk yet another beer and had a large meal of pork, fries, mushrooms and  salad. All for 140 CZk (including a small tip), no idea where it was that we ate though... Food here seems very reasonable, like Poland really.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2011, 05:32 AM
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Only saw one dead snake on the way back. >>

A great line, alex. I must save it up for a trip report of my own.

keep it coming!
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Old Aug 22nd, 2011, 05:36 AM
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Alex - where are you?

I remember lots of cyclers in the Czech Republic - lots of fairly flat roads in the southern part. And the food is good, plentiful portions, and inexpensive. The landscape was lovely.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2011, 11:05 PM
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Hi, Alex!

Been away for a few days and it's such a treat coming back to your leisurely and detailed account of your travels!

Thanks for the specific reviews of the hostels. They should be invaluable. When travelling alone in Europe, I sometimes like to stay in hostels - for the camaraderie.

Of course, the best combination is camaraderie and a 1L of beer in hand!

Please keep it coming! So very enjoyable!
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Old Aug 25th, 2011, 10:00 AM
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Currently in Prague, but only until Saturday when I head home!
Will write up the rest of my report then (though for Prague I have done a suprising amount of drinking and sleeping!)
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Old Aug 25th, 2011, 10:53 AM
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Good for you !
Prague Pilsner is very good.
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Old Aug 25th, 2011, 11:40 AM
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Alex - have you tried the nettle beer yet?
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