Alexgadgetman

Day 21 (31st July):

Rain!! For the first time during the day. Minor nuisance as I wanted to walk to the prison - it's name is distinctly polish, with an abundance of consonants and a lack of vowels. I think it began with an 'R'.. 

Anyway, I decided to get a tram, but as it is a sunday, no places were open that sold tickets, and as someone at the hostel had been telling me of his 70 PLN fine when caught with no ticket earlier in the day, I decided to get off after one stop (driver didn't want to sell me a ticket).

So getting to the prison (now a museum I should mention) failed. Which was annoying, and as it closes at 3 on Sunday's I couldn't go later in the day.

I hid from the rain in manufaktura for a while, when it abated a little then walked back to the hostel. After browsing some local shops and stocking up on essentials, I it ready to walk back to Manufaktura for the evening 'open air concert'. Apparently it featured some popular polish groups.

It was still damp and the umbrellas were out in force. All I can say is that I heard the first act, so decided to go inside and listen to some Spanish music on a mini stage in the mall. Then I heard the second act and decided to go and wary Transformers. I just don't think Polish as language really works with anything except sombre/classical music. Certainly the pop music being played was of questionable quality, and the singing was comparable to the Xfactor auditions.

Of course in the cinema the projector broke and that caused an hour long delay whilst they readied another screening room. Film had better 3D effects than Harry Potter..

Alexgadgetman

Day 21: (new month!)

Apologies for the ongoing spelling and grammatical errors, my iPod seems to think that auto-correct is an excuse to change the meaning of everything that I type..

Anyway, today was a marathon trek across Poland from Lodz to Krakow, this actually involved revisiting Warsaw (again!) before heading south to Krakow. I managed to miss the earlier trains (that may have got me to Krakow just after lunch), due to bad directions to the train station (I'm sure go right doesn't entail three right turns usually..). Anyway I reached the station around 11, the fastest route according to Deutche Bahn was to take a train to Warsaw and then on to Krakow. So the train to Warsaw was relatively easy, except that the platform the train was on had two trains, both traveling to Warsaw. I guessed that the one I wanted would be the run down one, a correct assumption for once.

Arrived in Warsaw at around 2pm, with a half hour wait until the connection. There was actually an IR train that would have arrived in Krakow at half five that I could have caught. However, as usual the people at the ticket office only spoke Polish. (I even tried asking if they spoke German I was that desperate to get the train!). So with no reservation, I could not get the train, and I had to settle for the slower train.

I have now learnt two lessons about Polish trains. Firstly, internationals seem to congregate in the restaurant carriage, simply because Polish people are so obtuse about sitting arrangements (six seats.. two people), as I have mentioned in earlier posts. Secondly, Polish train food is actually pretty decent, with Bruschetta,Kebabs and Pierogi on the menu at three pound a time (also many other things like salads). So at least I didn't go hungry.

Anyway, I arrived in Krakow at half seven, and made my way to the hostel for eight O'Clock. Then made my way to a 24 hour Polish Food place where I had yet more Pierogi.

At this point I was in dire need for sleep and decided against looking round any longer.

Alexgadgetman

As you can see... apparently it was day 21, it was really day 22... 1st of August and all that.

So Day 23, 2nd Aug

Loads to see today which is always nice.

Started off the day with a visit to Wawel Cathedral and its accompanying museum. I recommend the audio guide which makes the total visit around two hours (well, when you skip some of the museum part anyway). The story of the past leaders of Poland is told in part here, as with many of the intricacies of faith and reign. Plus you can climb the bell tower for a panaramic view off two sides. Plus can make a wish on the bell at the top. Cathedral itself is immaculately sculpted and maintained, as would be expected. I am leaving the castle itself for later in the week.

For lunch I went to a milk bar near where I am staying. At 4PLN for a plate of Pierogi I cant complain (under a pound, but more pierogi as I dont understand any other names of foods.. though I have now tried Pork, Duck, Potato, Veg and Blueberry flavors). This place isn't so much a have your own table place as a find a spare seat and ask if you can sit (no real way the person can say no..).

Then went to the Church in the main square of the town (st Marys Basylika), it cost 6 PLN to enter, and if you wanted to take photos you had to pay an extra 5PLN. Three guys were going around telling people they didn't have permission to take photos (if they were without the sticker and with a camera) and forcing them to fork out the 5PLN. A bit idiotic as far as I am concerned, especially as it is a church (and this was a designated tourist area within the church which you had to pay to get into in the first place, a bit different if it was all one area and then you could identify tourists by their cameras and charge them). If you decide not to pay, just visit http://www.mariacki.com/galerie.php and see all the pictures that you could have taken (hence me saving myself 5PLN).

Now I walked up to and along the old city walls to the north. There was a TV filming going on nearby so I couldn't get into the west side of the park. Though did find time to stock up on water and a creamy strawberry milk drink in a nearby supermarket.

After this I visited the National Museum, a few different galleries here. Of which two were the usual rubbish (I'm sorry, but a picture of someone hunting or smoking is not art, nor was the contemporary exhibition which was the usual mismatch of bent objects and meaningless paintings). The exhibition on the Polish army with armour that you could wear, plus the Spanish exhibition were both quite good. Spent a few hours overall here. Entry was 18PLN for all exhibitions. After this I visited the museum cafe and had a very nice Brownie (chocolate and toffee sauce), plus a strawberry smoothie. Both reasonably priced the total was under four pounds.

By now I was still fairly hungry and grabbed a burger and an ice cream on the way back to the main square (around 6PM). In the mains square there were the usual tourist acts. I.e, they have horse drawn carriages (bound to be a rip off), restaurants (which wont be as good as those in the side streets)and street performers which were pretty standard (except two guys who balanced on a staff using an outstretched hand, no idea how they do that).

After wandering around here for a while it was around eight, so I headed back to the hostel for a few minutes, dropped my bag off and went in search of Kielbasa, for this I headed towards somewhere quite famous. A blue van that is parked halfway up ul. Grzegorzecka. Mentioned in many tourist guides and also in the 'Krakow Post' (it had a half page spread article in the one I read), it serves Kielbasa for 8PLN, you will share the small freestanding table with other travelers, regulars and drunk people (well, thats what I found anyway). Even better there are three 24H stores in proximity here. Anyway, I headed back to the hostel fairly knackered having walked a fair distance today.

Hopefully I will get to Schindler's Factory tomorrow, and also the nearby Krakow under Nazi occupation museum. Plus, somewhere around Krakow is the Krakow against Terror museum, which I hope to track down.

annhig

Hi, Alex,

don't miss the ghetto museum in the old chemist's shop on the edge of the ghetto. it's remarkable for the story it tells, [of the only gentile that the nazis allowed to remain, and the wonderful work that he and his assistants did] and for the sculpture in the square outside, comprising copper chairs at all different angles to represent to furniture that fell from the carts as the refugees entered the ghetto. all very striking and moving.

irishface

Still reading and enjoying your story. Once again, thanks for sharing!

Kwoo

My grandmother was born in Poland & immigrated to the U.S. I grew up eating pierogi, so I'm envious of you. We did have delicious pierogi when we were in Krakow, too. have you tried golompki (stuffed cabbage) yet? or beet soup or cabbage soup? Hope you liked your kielbasa.

Alexgadgetman

Thanks for the comments:

@annhig
I managed to make it (day 25). Though was told a slightly different reason for the chairs!

@Irishface
Thanks for reading

@Kwoo
Pierogi is always nice, though I must admit that the boiled ones filled with potato are not so much to my taste. The best must be fried ones filled with meat (as standard it seems pork). I have just added golompki to my list of things to find. I have had various soups, though admittedly, i much prefer my soups to be warm! (half the time they are cold ) Dont think I have yet had cabbage soup, I seem to have a preconception of a lack of taste from cabbage...

Alexgadgetman

Day 24:

I believe that I have just passed the half way point of my travels. Kind of nice really, but scary to think that I will have to return to normality in a month. Woke up late today (well, early for me) at around 10. First stop was the Schindler Museum/Factory, a 2km walk in the sun.

I found the place relatively easily with the aid of the omnipotent google maps app on my iPod. A pleasant walk, which took me across the river. It's actually located by the museum of contemporary art (decided to avoid that one!). I have been told that the museum only opened around a year ago and therefore is very modern inside (lots of video clips and audio). Also a 35 minute cinema clip (literally inside a small cinema). The exhibits were very detailed and truly told a story of Schindler's actions during the war. One part that definitely stuck out was the description of how he fired a number of Jews from the factory in order to save them from being rounded up by the SS. Worth a visit if you are ever able to. Entry is only 15 PLN. You could spend anywhere from an hour to maybe two and a half here if you wanted to see/watch everything.

At this point I tried to reach the Museum of the Pharmacy Under the Eagle. However, even when in the square with the empty chairs I could not find it! With no map and no internet, I gave up and grabbed a Pizza. After which I was tired enough to head back to the hostel for a while.

The afternoon... well, I did a good job of sleeping for about four hours. Then grabbed a beer and also another Kielbasa (same van!) at around 1am. The crowd really is tourist/drunk/regular. Though I am not sure of the sense in queuing for 30 minutes for a sausage!

Alexgadgetman

Day 25:

This time, I was not to be defeated. I headed back to the same square with the chairs and success! I found the Pharmacy Under the Eagle Museum, situated right on the corner of the street and looking ominously closed. But that was only because the doors seemed to be kept closed (odd seeing as it was a museum). Anyway, I made my way in and paid the 6 PLN (if I remember correctly). I decided (perhaps mistakenly) not to get an audio-guide. The museum is actually very interesting as it is a more personal story than other places I Have visited which have been more general in their descriptions, with a letter from a person in 1993, sent from the USA, which thanked the Pharmacist for saving their life and enclosed $250 for the drugs which he provided being something that ( for whatever reason) stood out.

Next stop was a small cafe just across the road from the Museum. This cafe can be seen on the left hand side as you cross over the bridge towards the Jewish Ghetto area of the city. Here I had soup, schnitzel and a Kompot (juice mix). All for 20 PLN including the tip I thought that it was very reasonable.

Back to the hostel, this time to wash clothes. The best bit was that it was free, the second best bit was the the person working at the hostel agreed to put my clothes into the dryer for me whilst I went back up to the castle area.

So, me and another Brit climbed up the tower and that was about it. It provides a fairly panoramic view of the city. Perhaps more so on the lower levels where the windows are larger. It only costs 4 PLN to go up and is not as strenuous (nor as high) as many other towers which I have ascended (here I refer to the Copernicus tower that was in Torun). Anyway, we decided not to pay for any other things in the castle because they were all separate fees - and the armory had already sold out its allocation of tickets (after around 2pm, expect tickets to be fully sold out for the most popular exhibits (royal apartments when I was there, also armory/treasury on one day.)

Following this, it was half three and hot, time for a few beers and a talk about the usual random time passers (beer is cheaper before 4pm, 8 PLN vs 6 PLN, where we were per pint).

From here it was back to the hostel for the free evening meal, and another kielbasa (I will have to stop automatically heading towards that blue van at every opportunity).

adrienne

Alex - please do not miss the salt mine - I loved it.

Alexgadgetman

Day 26: (5. Aug)

Absolutely manic day, mainly due to the fact that my parents are heading out to Krakow for the weekend to meet up with me.

Up at around nine, I headed first of all to the castle where I got tickets to the armory/treasury for 2pm. This hopefully saved any chance of there being no tickets left. After this I went back to the hostel to charge my (now totally dead) phone up. Left it for an hour and sorted out some of my expanding mess.

Left the hostel again at around eleven, I should mention that it is between 24 and 26 degrees here now. I walked down to the river (the Vistula I presume..) and sat on the banks whilst waiting for my parents to arrive (a 'we will arrive in twenty minutes' easily becomes an hour..). Anyway, they eventually turn up around half 12. So, time for lunch.

This lunch gets its own paragraph, as it was one darn good lunch. We had it at a place that is visible from the north side of the castle. It is slightly into the park and is in the shade. The waitresses wear what I suppose are German/Polish style dress and they have a few massive beer kegs. Anyway, first off, time for some beers which were served in proper beer glasses (ie the big wide ones). Plsner and Tyskie were drunk (Tyskie perhaps more local than Plsner) and provided apt refreshment. The service was perfect. Slow, but not slow in a bad way, but in a 'we're on the continent, life has slowed down' way. The food arrived in a fine amount of time and was very impressive. Between us we had, chicken breast topped with cheese and tomato (and enough side stuff to feed a few people), a toasted sandwich of some form (perhaps not so impressive), and a Lamb thing that had bacon around it. No idea what it was, but was assured that it was great. Having the chicken had the disadvantage of being absolutely stuffed before even finishing my plate of food. I would definitely recommend this place for lunch, and will endeavor to find out its name in the next few days and will likely eat there again. The total cost of the meal was 82 PLN and including tip came to 90 PLN. For a good quality meal that isn't in a posh restaurant and will actually fill a gap this is perfect.

After lunch we headed to the armory and treasury. Some impressive engravings on the valuable items there. However, at 18 PLN, I would recommend the Chapel/Cathedral that is in the castle grounds with a audio guide as a much more time consuming and worth while thing to visit for another 1 PLN (see my post from day 23).

Now onwards to the main square of the old town and due to my parents wanting to a take a tour taxi (around the two Jewish quarters). We spent an hour (and 150 PLN) seeing some of the synagogues and Jewish sights. Actually quite useful as a lot of the Jewish quarters can be seen quickly unless you want to go into any of the places as they are today. There is a lot of history, but perhaps not so much content. Pleasant ride, bit bumpy.

After this, a break for coffee, then a break for beer. Then, finally at around half six, time for an early(ish) meal. This time near the 24HR polish food place I visited on my first day here. The meal may not have been so spectacular (though was by no means bad!!!). However, the puddings were exquisitely presented and very filling. Apparently an apple pie/crumble doesn't really have a small. Or at least I wonder what would arrive if you ever ordered a large pudding. I had a rather nice honey based desert. Again, I missed the name of the place, though think that I have a photo of my desert where they printed their name into the flour.

At around half eight we headed back to sleep/recoup with a view towards visiting the salt mines tomorrow. Time has gone quick here, only two full days left in Krakow.

Alexgadgetman

Day 27: (Sat 6th Aug)

Up early and left for the salt mines. The weather was hot, in the 20's and expected to rise to a maximum of 28 degrees. Arrived at around 11am and it looked like the first proper tourist destination with multination queues and hundreds of people wandering around. Plus a state visit (probably diplomatic visit) by someone from China who had his own security detail.

Entry to the mines is with a guide and cost approx. 40 PLN per person. The English groups are every half hour during the day, and ours was so large they split it into two groups of 30. The guides obviously knew what they were talking about and gave detailed explanations (which half the time I only half paid attention to whilst snapping away on my camera during the stops). The mines are quite spectacular and are definitely worth a visit. You can even go to the toilet 100 metres underground (not often you can do that, though I wonder where it all goes...), have a meal, or stop in the cafe. At the end of the tour you are given rough instructions on how to leave, which is probably not the best thing given that some people dont have the greatest sense of direction, we left with a group of Poles, who, after a few tunnels and stops later it became apparent were in fact not heading to the lift to the surface but were going to the Rehabilitation Museum. We were directed back up to a small area where thankfully there were lifts, not quite the size that was expected, maybe room enough for 4 people. Of course this being Poland there were 8 people squeezed in.

We left the mines and got lunch at a place towards the bottom of the hill that leads up to the mines, kielbasa all round. Cheap at around 60 PLN including two beers. We decided to make our way further south to Zakopane. However, half an hour later, and a few traffic jams sat in, we hit a monster. Caused presumably by a crash up ahead we gave up and returned to Krakow. Where I revisited the Schindler Museum (parents hadn't been). As before, a good museum.

We tried to go back to the restaurant from yesterday lunch time. However it was full outside, and too hot inside. Went to the Hard Rock Cafe for drinks, but to be honest, service was slow, and it was expensive considering the places nearby. Ended up at a Georgian restaurant on one of the side streets. With starters that were pretty filling (like a thick based pizza) and a pork main with wedges, it wasn't very Polish. But it was grub (OK food, but for the cost very good).

Beer in the evening in the square, then onwards to the hostel for sleep. Travelling round all day is tiring (I don't like cars now anymore than I did in England).

Treesa

Alex, thanks, so much fun. We'll follow your steps in October, no Lublin, though. Just Warsaw and Krakow.

Alexgadgetman

Day 28: (Sun 7th Aug)

I got up early at half eight and headed to the flea market to the North East of the old town. I have never been to a flea market before, but can honestly say it was one of the oddest places. A mix of clothes, bikes, antiques and old rubbish. Space obviously came at a premium with stalls hanging their goods off the full bins. Nothing really purchasable, but an interesting visit.

Another attempt to visit Zakopane - some advice, get a sat nav and take all the shortcuts or be stuck in traffic jams for like two hours. Not a quick journey at the weekend, not sure during the week though. (during the to-ing and thro-ing from Zakopane, we came across three seperate crashes.

Anyway, Zakopane, worth a visit, though perhaps book yourself into a hotel there for two nights as you cant really see so much during a single day where you can only spend a few hours there. The sights are spectacular and you can grab a beer looking out over the mountains for only 8 PLN (only half a litre, as standard here). Lunch was had before ascending the mountain on the cable train, cant remember what it was though...

The market in Zakopane itself is quite an experience, the winter jackets there are spectacular (though the cost is quite high at 400-1000 PLN, though can probably be bargained).

After a few hours here we left to return to Krakow mid afternoon. Back to 'Pod Wawelem' the restaurant from the first lunchtime. Sitting inside here, it was hot, but we had 1L beers (mega heavy in their glasses) and huge meals. Great food again, though a little disorganised service (though they did have the whole serving staff come out and sing happy birthday in Polish to the guy on the table next to us). The meal here was around 170PLN (ie under 40 quid). Cant really fault the prices here at all.

Back to the centre and again a few beers whilst watching the world go by. Also had a tropicana cocktail which was nice (and strong).

Alexgadgetman

@Treesa
You will definitely enjoy Krakow, no matter what you like to do when travelling. How long are you spending in each city? (as I would recommend more time in Krakow than Warsaw, I didnt see everything in a whole week there! (will try and write my final day and a half there up soon..)

annhig

hi Alex,

glad you are enjoying Krakow and finally got to see the pharmacy. what was the "other" story you heard about the chairs?

where are you going next?

Alexgadgetman

@Annhig
We were told on our little tour (if I heard correctly) that the chairs represented the Jewish people who had been displaced. Empty to represent the empty Jewish houses.

I am currently in Wroclaw, relaxing. A nice town, which hopefully I can find time to write about (the last days in Krakow were too hectic for blogging much so the report is a little behind my current location.

On to Olomouc next.

Treesa

Alex, thanks for replying. We're spending 4 days in Krakow as well as in Warsaw. No change is possible since we're staying in apartments and there are four of us, each one with a different agenda and different expectations. We shall see. In the meantime I'm shamelessly stealing ideas from your trip.

annhig

Tressa - definitely try to see the pharmacy under the eagle discussed above, and the salt mines. and we found the jewish district very interesting too. the castle didn't wow us much but there's lots to see in 4 days in Krakow.

jomagpie

Great updates! I'm heading to Krakow in the fall so it's good to read other people's experiences.

In case you haven't already seen it, you should look up In Your Pocket guides; it's free and full of info (what to see, bars, restaurants, etc). http://www.inyourpocket.com/
(I do not work for them but am finding their guides helpful with planning)