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Poland and the Czech Republic - ongoing report!

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Poland and the Czech Republic - ongoing report!

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Old Jul 18th, 2011, 12:41 PM
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Hi Alex,

just found your thread - glad i did. Very interesting reading about Gdansk. do they do trips to the politically important sites like the dock yards?

I suspect that you will find Krakow, at least the centre, very expensive by contrast to Gdansk. it's full of tourists of all nations and seems popular with the stag night set. we found the salt mines very interesting, but didn't go to Auschwitz. the jewish quarter and the ghetto were fascinating too, and got us away from the hurley burley of the centre.

we did take a trip out to Nova Huta to see the church where John Paul ll was bishop [it's designed like a sail or a boat] and there was a market on the way which was very cheap - i think that our lunch bill came to about £2.50 for both of us. I think that they were the first tourists they'd seen for some time, if ever, but they were friendly enough and we got by with sign-language - a bit like you.

looking forward to more!
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Old Jul 18th, 2011, 12:49 PM
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JulieVikmanis -- Hope you're going to Moravsky Krumlov to see Mucha's Slavonic Epic. It is certainly worth the trip, altho not much else there.
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Old Jul 19th, 2011, 08:15 AM
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JulieVikmanis & Alex,
If you are interested, you can click on my name to read my trip report from August 2009, when we visited Prague, Cesky Krumlov, Karlovy Vary, Telc & Kutna Hora.

Alex, what is your planned itinerary for Czech Republic? I've been to both CR & Poland & am enjoying your report. Only had time to visit Krakow in Poland. Sights to see are: main square, cloth hall, St. Mary's Church, Wawel Castle & Cathedral, Wieliczka Salt mines, Auschwitz & Kazimierz.
Happy traveling!
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 06:54 AM
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On Gdansk:
Annhig
For things relating to the shipyard strikes and demonstrations, I recommend that you start at the roads to freedom exhibition. It is possible to spend a good 3/4 hours here if you use the computers and watch the various videos which I found fascinating. The exhibition places a (slightly biased) emphasis on gdansk, but is still factually informative. There are also two videos to watch on large screens plus loads of materials that you can read. From here (5 min north if the station, the exhibition is underground, follow the lines on the road) you can head north another 2 minutes to reach the monument to the fallen shipyard workers. This will have probably taken half a day or so so far.

As for the shipyards themselves,  I don't think that there is much on the shipyards themselves, except notable points, and a bar/club inside the yard number 2 (IIRC). You may be best enquiring with an English speaking guide, as obviously there wasn't time to see everything whilst I was there (though had further monuments to Walesa and the likes have been mentioned I likely would have made a beeline towards them). There seemed to be a lot of things on Amber, and there was a lot to see (not do at times).

On the Czech:
julievikmanis
I may well end up in many places you intend to visit! Certainly Cesky Krumlov, and maybe Brno, I intend to day trip a fair bit as well ( should be able to afford it having already underspent by around £80-£100 on what I had budgeted for.) I have towns/cities as an itinerary but no fixed plans or each day.

Kwoo:
I will get (make) time to read that report in the next few days, thanks for the post! (I tend only to have the Internet when I post, and write stuff over lunch/dinner when I am not connected). I will definitely visit Wawel, Auschwitz and the Salt mines, guess I will have to survive the tourist hoards. At the moment no plans in the Czech except locations to sleep (Olomouc, Plzen, Cesky Krumlov and Prague). 
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 07:00 AM
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Angel Hostel: a review.
Located on the same square as the town hall, this fourth floor hostel is pretty clean, quiet(ish) however lacks a full time check in and certain amenities (Washing Machine!!)

Upon arriving at the hostel you must first go into the cafe on the ground floor (cat with the tin hat), the lady here will buzz you into the hostel and call ahead ( so someone is there when you arrive). You will be met by the babushka (best way to describe her really, though it's meant in a nice way..). Who will try and find you in her notebook. Slightly back in the day feel.

The rooms have been designed ( I believe ) by her son, expect.... Well expect the unexpected, I guess tue style would be described as slightly gothic (just a little). And the beds are inventively placed (ie two in each room are above the door from what I could tell), the rest are bunks or singles, metal frames with random wooden bits. I could see that mine had previously been welded back together.

The beds are comfortable, and overall things are relatively clean. Though I did wonder a little about the brown segment all over the floors of the showers, I believe it was because they were not draining properly. There were 2 toilets and 3 showers, never had any queues when I was there.

 Due to the age of the place, things creak, doors, beds, floorboards. Can be a little irritating at times. The light fixtures by the beds are accidents waiting to happen, indeed accidents did happen, mainly involving my head, on a number of occasions.

As for amenities, you have free tea and coffee, some random old magazines and also Internet access. BUT there were three main gripes for me, lack of any real reception, no common area and no washing machine (I suppose you can add fridge, hob, microwave and guidebooks to that list as well).

If I stayed in Torun again, to be honest my first choice would be to look elsewhere ( the Orange Hostel seems to be the only other choice), the location was good, the owners kind when I saw them ( twice ), but it just lacked in hostel stuff. Maybe better for young families whos kids aren't old enough to sleep in their own room yet - as one family of about 6 stayed the night in the room next to ours. Shame they don't get rid of the twin room in favour of a common area.

Out of five, I would give it 3, mainly for location.
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Old Jul 20th, 2011, 07:02 AM
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Day 9: leaving Torun arriving in Warsaw.

Up early at 9am (I know awful isn't it). Got my deposit back (50 PLN for a key!). And walked the 2 km to the station, as usual it is sunny, a little wind and only a few clouds in the sky. 

Apparently the train leaves from platform 1 at 10:17, though you would never know that if you didn't ask. Maybe they make things so badly signposted so they get their money's worth from the people at the billet office. Ended up on the wrong platform for 10 minutes, apparently platform 1 is not the one nearest the entrance, but is the furthest away..

I have also noticed that when you get on he train, the rule seems to be that you grab a compartment and close the door and blinds no matter how many people are in there. Plus sit/lie across as many seats as possible. I glanced in first class, and it would seem that the same happens (to be honest the only difference seemed to be that you could get a seat in first class, cant say I wouldn't have liked that, 3 hours standing can be a little painful and I am only 90 minutes in!!) plus I would swear that people just get on these trains to use to toilets, there is a constant stream of people flowing past to use them, makes it nigh on impossible to use the aisle seats!

Standing next to someone who has a (very) nice camera, I think that one would be quite a nice investment for any future trips, especially if they can do clever things (ie a shot every second continually) to be honest, my camera skills are lacking... Severely. Especially on my £30 camera, but then, I don't have to worry about it.

Arrived in Warsaw, at the wrong station for my map. So from here I had to first stress a little and then catch a bus ( only found this out thanks to a kindly guard). The hostel looks pretty good, though more on that after I have stayed a few nights.

A late lunch at a small cafe - breaking the bank by spending 29PLN on lunch. A risotto and some ice tea. It is more expensive here, certainly at places you can sit down to eat. Though the risotto is worth it, seafood. It also has some things i don't usually see in seafood - tentacles with the suckers on poking up throughout. 

On Warsaw, to be honest I haven't seen anywhere that was built before 1950 yet (to be expected). But it seems no restoration attempts have been made around the hostel - just apartment blocks.
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Old Jul 21st, 2011, 08:09 AM
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Day 10 (double figures!):
Morning:
Breakfast today was a few handfuls of supermarket purchased cheerios, vitamin filled and cheap (you can guess which one of these two points made me buy them).

Quite scary to think that I am already 10 days in, so today i decided to follow a tourist trail in Warsaw. In the book it is titled 'route no1 the Royal Route'. Means walking a fair bit, as of now (1pm) I have seen various things including: King Zygmunt III Column, the Presidential Palace and the house without corners ( always a good fun to take photos of the guards outside state buildings such as the Presidential Palace. Looks like I have finally found some architecture worth looking at. Yet most of it has still been built after 1950 (for obvious reasons). Hopefully I will get to the Museum of the Polish Army this afternoon.

Afternoon:
Museum of the Polish Army is FREE on a wednesday, saved 22 PLN there, and got an audioguide (recommended or things will just be objects rather than historical artifacts). Good museum, especially of you feel like a soy on the benches outside while admiring the decrepit tanks and missiles.

Walked south a fair bit but the guide after Park Lazienkowski expects you to walk 4pm further to the poster museum (which I will visit, but may use public transport for).

Still want to see the Poster Museum and Uprising Museum. Lucky I put them off as not half an hour after getting back to the hostel it started to rain. Hard. Not like England where it's just light rain, but first the lightning and thunder, then a massive downpour lasting two hours. It felt like I was in a bomb shelter when the thunder sounded(?), things vibrated everywhere.

Fortunately another guy at the hostel had a good recommendation for somewhere to eat, a Sri Lankan place that is like a cafe but family run and very friendly. Name was Samagi, had a meal consisting of three curries and rice for 20 PLN. Good value plus we got free Masala Chai, something that I have never had before but was very good as an after. Also got a sales pitch for Sri Lanka whilst I was there (looks like a nice country).
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Old Jul 21st, 2011, 08:11 AM
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Day 11: Warsaw Uprising and Palac Wilanowski.

Having woke late after staying up until 2:30am yesterday (talking at the hostel, not drinking ) I made a beeline for the Warsaw uprising museum, I have to say that though the museum is a good attraction with an abundance of films and articles, it was thoroughly ruined by the sheer volume of snap happy, tour guide led people with no genuine interest in the exhibits. This was a real shame for me. I much preferred the Roads to Freedom exhibition in Gdansk as it gave me time and space to think. In Warsaw many corridors were blocked by tour groups,  people were getting onto exhibits for their photo opportunities and were paying little attention to the sacrifices of the people of Warsaw. This makes me reconsider my plans to visit Auschwitz in a few weeks, having spoken to a number of people they recommend a less tourist  popular camp near Lublin.

Around three o'clock I decided to head to the Poster Museum that is in the far south of Warsaw, near Palac Wilanowski. Of course after a half hour bus ride I found that I had just missed last admissions, so found myself wandering around the palace gardens. I would recommend the gardens, I am not a garden person, yet sat in the sun for three quarters of an hour reading quite happily in rather serene surroundings (with only one tour group there, it is a little out if the way, the get to the palace/gardens catch the 180 bus south to the end of it's line then you are 100m away). Though I did not go inside the palace, as i am not a palace person, if it is as impressive as the exterior it will be well worth a visit. Had to leave the gardens prematurely due to a quickly encroaching cloud formation (blanket of grey).

Ham sandwiches for tea
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Old Jul 21st, 2011, 01:52 PM
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thanks for taking us with you, alex.

i have heard not very good things about Warsaw - do you think that it's worth the trip?
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Old Jul 22nd, 2011, 06:14 AM
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Alex, I am enjoying reading about Warsaw & would like to go there some day. I do recommend seeing Auschwitz; it is not like the museum you described; people are not having their photos taken. People are somber and serious & reflective. Auschwitz is very depressing, of course, but I think it's important for people to go there. I know that some people think it is sanitized (not sure why people say that) but at any rate, that does not take away from the horrors of the camp. We went with a very knowledgeable & serious tour guide; there were 3 in my group & 3 or 4 other travellers with us. Everyone was respectful & behaved appropriately.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2011, 07:03 AM
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Those reports on the hostels are wonderfully detailed. Thanks so much!

I usually choose an apartment or a B&B, but occasionally will stay in a good hostel, especially if it's just an overnight. Saves me from having to do a ton of research on B&Bs when staying for just one night.

Hostel living isn't for everyone, but I enjoy most the convenience (24-hour front desk, quick check-in, close to transportation) and the socializing. Not everyone who stays in a hostel is a poor dormouse or a drunken backpacker. Many are just saving their money to make it stretch further so they can travel longer or to use the money for something they consider more worthwhile. The shared conversations, experiences and, sometimes, the shared travels are wonderful and impossible to duplicate.

Keep up the good work! Still traveling with you - riding on your backpack (have you noticed it's gotten heavier since you started posting on Fodors? )
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Old Jul 23rd, 2011, 01:11 PM
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Day 12: poster museum, random museum and Harry potter.

Made it to the poster museum, kind of disappointing, lots of cool 
photos but no real explanations. Wandered around for half an hour or so. Then left in search of more interesting things.

I somehow found a museum in the north of warsaw that was empty except from me. it focused on the solidarity movement and WW1, a time that isn't referenced much elsewhere. It only cost 7 PLN to get in. I still don't know it's name, but it is near the architectural museum ( I think). interestingly the posters here were more interesting than those in the poster museum. Plus it cost less to get in!!

After this I headed back to the hostel and ended up going to watch Harry Potter with two americans. The best 3D bit in the movie was the cinema introduction. Also fairly expensive at 32 PLN a ticket!!
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Old Jul 23rd, 2011, 01:13 PM
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Day 13: (23rd July)

My last full day in Warsaw.. I have seen pretty much everything that I wanted to.

I bought a day ticket for buses, trams and the metro for two quid (9 PLN) and then attempted to reach greenway, 4.5pm away. Needless to say by the time I got anywhere near it was 2pm, and I couldn't find it. So lunch was had at karoca, in a shopping mall. I had potatoes, carrot and some meat that had the constituency of liver. Whatever it was it was nice at first.. Then after five minutes my stomach realised what was happening and tried to repel the invaders, fortunately it failed, or it would not have been pretty. It still isn't happy with me, and it's four o'clock now. Might have to skip food for a while.

Ended up back at the hostel and slept for  four hours. Lack of sleep plus an abundance of liver did not help.

Decided to eat a macdonalds at like 9pm (safe food!!) and that was about it for the night.
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Old Jul 23rd, 2011, 01:21 PM
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Kwoo:
Enjoyed reading the report! Some very useful stuff for me to use when I am in Prague. (didnt know they had a castle). I will refer to your report in later posts no doubt (it's a few weeks away yet).

Annhig:
I would definitely say that warsaw is worth visiting. It has some very good museums (and some not so good). There is always the Chopin museum or Marie Curie museum if people are interested. There are also reasonable shopping oppurtunities. I would say 3/4 days is perfect for sightseeing. Maybe 5 if you go to the corpernicus museum
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Old Jul 23rd, 2011, 01:31 PM
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(got cut off again!)

Or the science museum. There are lots of pretty buildings, it's just a shame that they are only 60 years old at most!!

Kwoo ( again) : i guess I will have to make a decision about that in krakow, which is ok, I am in Lublin for three days from tomorrow. I know there is a camp near there that I can visit.

Easytraveller:
Your reasons for hostel staying are sound, and they pretty much mimic my own reasons for staying in hostels. I will write a Review for the oki doki hostel where I am now on the way to lublin, my short advice on it would be that it is great though there are a few drunken backpackers around, I can see three I'm here, but they seem to be comatose
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 12:18 PM
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Oki Doki hostel, a review.

This is possibly my favourite hostel, it definitely rivals the Five Elements in Frankfurt. The first thing that you will notice about this place is that it is painted orange, bright orange. It has a mermaid statue on the wall, and no matter what time you arrive the reception will be open plus there will be at least one drunk person in the common area (ok so maybe the last bit is a minor hyperbole). Still, the staff are always friendly, and you can buy a variety of necessities such as toothpaste, shavers and soap from reception. Talking about buying things they also have an impressive souvenir collection along plus a bar that is open until midnight (7-8pm is happy hour, two pints of beer for 7PLN, about 78p a pint). So you don't actually need to go out too much, and as the nightlife in Warsaw is questionable it's probably for the best. Though I should add there is a supermarket, McDonalds, bars and clubs all within five minutes walk. The location is pretty ideal for sightseeing as well.

As for the rooms, I was in the 'football' room, which had famous footballer lockers (pictures on the lockers) and a football themed paint job. Other rooms had different themes such as the photography room. The lockers could fit my backpack and day bag plus food and drink. The bed didn't creak and was comfortable. Except from a lack of central heating (or cooling, which was felt on the first night)  the room was fine. Mix of bunks and single beds, some twin rooms as well. Ours had a sink and mirror as well.

The toilets and showers must have been cleaned hourly as they were pretty spotless throughout my stay. The kitchen had a microwave, hob, fridge, freezer, cutlery and plates. Couldn't fault it, breakfast wasn't included and was 16 PLN, I can't comment on it as was working my way through a 500gram bag of cheerios. From what I heard it wasn't worth it, but might be worth a try.

Also free wifi throughout the hostel, free tea and coffee, and three computers (use early or not at all ) hostel was secure and all rooms had keys, nothing really bad about this place except when someone decides to have a hour long coughing fit in the middle of the night.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 12:21 PM
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Day 14: Leaving Warsaw (24th July) and arriving in Lublin.

I want to start this entry off with a complaint, against what I always felt to be British logic. That is to say, that you should place the least able and most unhelpful person in a position where you must interact with them, and prevent those that could help you from being able to.

To explain, at Warsaw Centralna (the main train station in Warsaw), they have an information kiosk with three young multilingual helpful staff, however you aren't allowed to ask them about the trains, for this you must ask elsewhere. Needless to say this kiosk was empty of people needing help, yet when you go to where they expect you to enquire about the trains, there is only one lady serving, who speaks only one language and has a massive queue. There I was thinking that efficiency was only blatantly ignored in England.

I didn't actually know which train to catch, it was only after a trip to KFC for their free Internet that told me the train left from II/1, after waiting around on platform one for a while I realised that I needed to be on platform two and that the 1 was merely track number.... Got on the Train and found a seat, but don't you hate it when you are in the seem carriage as someone who hasn't showered in about a month... Then insists on keeping the window closed!!

Anyway, I had a nice egg and chicken sandwich for lunch. That's about the only positive thing so far today.

I arrived in Lublin around half three, all that I will say is, dont visit Lublin unless you have to. It really is a dump (from what I have seen).

As I left the train station I could see prostitutes touting on the corner of the street, I tossed a tomato into the bin, only to see an old guy rummaging around 30 seconds later and gleefully retrieving it. It started to bucket down, the buses are infrequent, there are drunk people wandering around shouting and the place is a tip. Plus I saw two eight (they looked) year olds playing with a makeshift blade claw (wooden grip with two knives protruding). I wasn't even surprised when my Portuguese roommate told me that i was staying on the street with the most crime in Lublin.

I found the hostel.. just, I will review it later, but the major nono is instantly it's lack of lockers, plus a single toilet and shower between everyone?!?!?! Got some fast food for dinner, least it was cheap. Apparently I am a kilometre from the old town, I'll check that out tomorrow, when it is light... Hopefully I will find a launderette in the morning and can visit somewhere in the afternoon.
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 12:29 PM
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so you'll be staying in Lublin for how long?
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Old Jul 24th, 2011, 11:55 PM
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@Annhig
Provisionally for four nights (madness) I may have to shave a few off that.. Shall see how the next day or two goes.
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Old Jul 25th, 2011, 03:29 AM
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mmm - you aren't hoping to get a a commission from the Lublin tourist Board are you?
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