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Please help me pare my wish-list for Switzerland to fit into 25 days

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Please help me pare my wish-list for Switzerland to fit into 25 days

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Old Dec 28th, 2012, 12:33 PM
  #41  
 
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Do NOT backtrack to Chur. Skip it.

There's a magnificent drive from Upper Engadin over the Ofenpass, to Mustair, go into Italy, stop in the walled town of Glurns, continue over the Restenpass and then head back into Switzerland driving through Sent, Scuol, Ardez and ending in Guarda. Then drive back to the Upper Engadin. You can easily do it in a day from the Engadin.

Personally, I think Zermatt should be on your list if you're staying that long but that my opinion.

I find Rheinfalls terribly overrated and can easily be scratched from your itinerary.

Stein am Rhein is very quaint and small but it's also out of the way so you might want to reconsider it.

There's not much to see in Zürich so you might want to add a few days to your Tessin itinerary. It's lovely in Ascona / Lugano during March because spring comes earlier in the south.

You might want to leave some flexibility in your itinerary. A successful tour of Switzerland depends greatly on the weather. Bad weather in the mountains can mean zero visibility. You can get some amazing weather during the time you're here or you might not. Nobody knows.

Are you staying in hostels? They are very good in Switzerland.

Good luck.
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Old Dec 28th, 2012, 08:22 PM
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Lots of great travel advice and good opinions.

It seems each of us has our favorite things.

I lived in Switzerland for 4 years and traveled around quite a bit. Much of the time I traveled solo and found it very easy to do so. I almost always used the train/bus system. You can stay in fairly reasonable places and find them safe, clean, and comfortable unlike in some other countries.

I have my own loves and they include:

For the beauty and hiking (every level):

Murren (this is a favorite of mine and where I would have a second home if I could)
Wengen
Guarda - walk to Ardez and beyond... Love Guarda...idyllic
Fex Valley - but have only been in the snow - magical

I have also enjoyed Ascona - although it was a tricky place for finding an accommodation that pleased us. The views and walk up to the top of the ridge at the end of town were gorgeous however. A good place to head to find the sunshine should it escape you elsewhere.

Although the Italian lake region (Como) is very scenic, for some reason I never "warmed" to it as much as the other areas. Just me I'm sure...I'm also not as wild about Italy as many on Fodor's are.

Have taken the Bernina Express many times and am never disappointed. Bring a picnic and some wine. In the Engadin, I am partial to Pontresina. Not keen at all on San Moritz.

I loved the William Tell Express which includes a really spectacular boat trip - pick a sunny day however. http://www.raileurope.com/european-t...ess/index.html



Zermatt is not my favorite town per se, but the Matterhorn is definitely a kick and worth a trip.

I love art and have enjoyed so many lovely museums all over Switzerland. In Basel do not miss:

Kunstmuseum
www.kunstmuseumbasel.ch/en/home/

Fondation Beyeler (a favorite of mine)
www.fondationbeyeler.ch/.../...

I lived in Zürich and worked in Bern. They each have their charms although I think many people never see most of them. I'm not sure why. We loved Zürich. Charming and lovely with plenty to see and do IME. I also loved Fribourg and the old town of Zug. The art museums in both cities (Zürich and Bern) are also quite nice. Also loved a small Impressionist museum in Lausanne. http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/laus...oundation.html

Lucerne has a few very nice museums as well....my favorite is the Sammlung Rosengart - was fortunate to meet Angela Rosengart there once when I ran into a journalist friend interviewing her. It was a real thrill!


I think it would be hard not to love Switzerland - enjoy!!! If you look under gruezi you may find a report or two of mine...
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Old Dec 28th, 2012, 08:27 PM
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Oh YAYYYYY!!!

I posted this and then my screen went blank with an error message from Fodor's. I thought all that was lost... glad the Fodor's gremlins found it and it posted.

Have a good trip kja...
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Old Dec 29th, 2012, 12:56 AM
  #44  
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Oh, how I love this board! I had thought that my thread had come to the end of it’s useful life. And then today, in the midst of the holiday season, I found several more wonderful packages waiting to be opened. It’s as if Santa came! Thanks so much!


➢ PalenQ

Thanks again – your comments are most assuredly helping me plan my trip!


➢ schuler

Thanks so much for chiming in!

The drive you describe from the Upper Engadine to Mustair, and then through a bit of Italy into the Lower Engadine, sounds wonderful. That said, I think I’ve now been convinced that I can manage my trip without a car, so that’s what I’m most likely to do.

I’m very glad that you shared your perspective on the Rheinfalls and Stein am Rhein. I’ve done a bit more research since reading your words, and I am now very seriously considering skipping them (and so skipping Schaffhausen, too). In the face of my seemingly ever-growing wishlist for Switzerland, identifying something that I might actually drop from my plans is very much appreciated.

In contrast, I find it hard to imagine spending less than 2 full days in Zurich. In fact, the more I learn, the greater the difficulty I have imagining that I’ll be able to fit everything I want to do there into just 2 days! I’m looking forward to savoring its museums and churches, exploring its quays and botanical garden, getting out onto the lake (even if briefly) and, of course, just roaming its Old Town. Am I miscalculating the time these activities are likely to take?

As you and so many others have been careful to note, weather might not cooperate with my sightseeing plans. I realize that I need to ensure that I have enough time in the areas where I most want to see mountains so that I have at least some chance of doing so. So far, I’m thinking that the Bernese Oberland and the Engadine are the two areas where I would most like to seek some panoramic experiences. (If you think there are other areas that would be better, don’t hesitate to say so!) I’m trying to come up with an itinerary that gives me at least a few days in each area, so I can take advantage of a clear day (or two) if available, while still having lots of things to see and do on the other days. When I post my revised plans, I hope you’ll comment!

(BTW, on the decades-ago trip during which I visited Lucerne, I also visited Innsbruck for a day. It didn’t clear enough for me to see the Alps surrounding Innsbruck until I was on the train on the way out of town. I felt so lucky to have gotten that last-minute glimpse! Still, the overcast skies didn’t stop me from going to the top of Mt. Hafelekar earlier that day. I spent several hours there hoping for a break in the clouds. With the exception of a few seconds-long glimpses, it didn’t happen. Nonetheless, my time at the top of that mountain was one of my all-time most memorable travel experiences, with an ethereal other-worldliness to it that I would never have expected. Such an unexpected treat!)

And that brings me to your comments on Zermatt: Much as I would like to see the Matterhorn, I haven’t identified enough things that appeal to me to make it worth blocking out several days for that area, particularly given the things I would have to skip elsewhere to free up time in/around Zermatt. But I’m still learning about my options, so by all means, feel free to offer suggestions!

And thanks for making sure that I am aware of Switzerland’s hostels—I have heard wonderful things about them. Nonetheless, I’ll be seeking the greater privacy of en-suite rooms for single use. I know that this will be an expensive trip (I’m sure I’ll stop hyperventilating about the costs soon—it never takes more than a few moments after I start thinking of them), even if I manage to book rooms that are on Switzerland’s more affordable side. Any and all suggestions are welcome!


➢ gruezi

I’m so very pleased that you, too, have chosen to share your thoughts with me—many thanks! And I’m VERY glad that your comments weren’t lost to cyberspace—I hate when that happens!

As you note, I’ve been getting some wonderfully informative advice, for which I am very grateful. Of course there have been some divergent opinions: Wouldn’t it be awful if we all traveled for the same reasons and had the same reactions to everything? Vive la différence! My challenge (any traveller’s challenge) is to sift through the comments to figure out what best matches one’s own interests….

Murren, Wengen, Guarda, and Ardez (and the walk from Guarda to Ardez) are all currently on my must-see list, so I’m very glad to hear you affirm their merits. Fribourg is on my must-see list, too. And I appreciate the 2nd vote for Ascona—from what I have learned so far, it would be a better choice for me than Locarno. And I’m so glad to hear that you are fond of Pontresina!

Fex Valley sounds wonderful, too, although I must admit that it only came to my attention recently when ingo mentioned it. (There’s so much I still have to learn about Switzerland!) I haven’t found much about it in my guidebooks and am still trying to learn more and figure out whether it will work into my plans or not. Hearing that you found it magical in snow makes me think that at the very least I should consider it as a worthy option if I encounter snow while in the area.

The Bernina Express is now as close to writ-in-stone as anything I’m considering for this trip, so again, I’m glad to hear that you commend it, too. (I just made sure that my planning file noted that I should bring a picnic meal and wine – thanks!) My goal will be to get on the Bernina Express north of Thusis, probably in Chur, to make sure that I go through the area around the Albula Pass where the technological feats for which the route is known are most evident.

As for the Italian Lake district, well, it would seem that my effort to maximize the diversity of my trip would fall short if I weren’t to include at least some parts of the French, German, AND Italian sections of the country! More to the point, I’ve hoped to visit the Ticino for a very long time, so I’ll be glad to finally see it with my own eyes.

For my transit from Locarno (or Ascona) back into the heart of Switzerland, do you think it worth taking the William Tell Express rather than any other train on that same route? I wasn’t planning to take the last leg on the lake, because when I visited Lucerne many years ago, I took a delightful multi-hour boat ride that was, fortunately, on a spectacularly sunny day. I made it as far as Rutli (with a brief stop in Rutli Meadow—so moving!) before I had to return to Lucerne. Much as I’d love to be back on that body of water, I was thinking that getting off the train earlier might be a way to allow myself a bit more time in the Bernese Oberland.

Re: Zermatt – Please see my comments to schuler that immediately precede these notes to you. If there’s a reasonable way to make a view of the Matterhorn a part of my trip, I’m open to hearing it!

In Basel, the Kunstmuseum and Fondation Beyeler are most decidely on my agenda, along with several notable museums in Zürich and Bern, and museums in Winterthur and Geneva and… (When I introduced myself by saying that I enjoy art and museums, I meant it!) Just last night, I learned that Lausanne’s Fondation de l'Hermitage will, during the time that I am likely to be in the area, have a special exhibition of paintings through the ages that feature windows. I don’t know if I can see it; I am sure that I would like to! One of my goals when planning an itinerary is ensuring that I can visit my highest priority museums, which are sometimes closed on Mondays. I can’t always plan around that, but I sure do try!

And, oh, this is really weird, but seriously, one of the reasons I’m blocking out some time to return to Lucerne is to see the Sammlung Rosengart—it sounds quite special. Again, I’m so glad you confirmed its merits. (How wonderful it must have been for you, as someone who obviously appreciates art and its accessibility, to meet Angela Rosengart! Awesome!)

“…also loved the old town of Zug.” I’ve heard about Zug, but haven’t heard a recommendation to see it. I’ll look into it!

“I think it would be hard not to love Switzerland” -- Me, too, That’s why I’m going!


Thanks all!
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Old Dec 29th, 2012, 08:22 AM
  #45  
 
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It's too early for the Fex Valley. The restaurants and hotels there will still be closed, no horse-drawn carriages yet to go into the valley. And there is not enough time for everything in the Engadine anyway.

I have some pages on places in Switzerland on Virtualtourist.com which may help you with planning:

St. Moritz
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a88f9/
Scuol
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8885/
Müstair
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8b3c/
Poschiavo
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8a16/
Soglio
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8843/
Basel
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a919b/
Zürich
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8632/

A town which wasn't mentioned so far (I think) is Solothurn - well worth your time:
http://members.virtualtourist.com/m/4166c/a8840/

You can go from Müstair to Scuol via Italy as suggested by schuler by public transportation (bus), too. Takes about 2 hours, e.g. leave about noon and arrival at 2 pm. Changes in Mals/Italy and Martina, Switzerland. Since these buses run every hour you are free to stop somewhere along the way and do some sightseeing. Glurns is nice, worth an hour, Mals, too. But that opens another can of worms, meaning possibilities ;-)

I.
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Old Dec 29th, 2012, 10:06 PM
  #46  
kja
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➢ Ingo

What great web pages! Thanks so much for making sure I saw them (I hadn’t). I’ve only given them a quick glance so far, but I can see that they are filled with all sorts of useful info (including some hotel/B&B recommendations that look intriguing—and reasonably affordable! ☺). And you’ve included some truly stunning pictures – awesome! Your love of the region comes through every word and every photograph. BTW, I had already planned to visit Zurich’s Toy Museum (I’m a sucker for toy museums) and enjoyed reading your description of it.

Although it hasn’t been mentioned, Solothurn has been part of my plan, even if for just a few hours. Thanks for making sure I didn’t forget it!

Fex Valley is officially off my list. (At last—something I can skip without further research! Perhaps I’ll be able to return to Switzerland someday….)

At this point in my planning, I’ve managed to add far more things to my wish-list than I’ve deleted. And that means that even if I figure out a way to add some time to my trip, I still have too much to see. I’m considering giving up Appenzell and St. Gallen (sigh)….
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Old Dec 30th, 2012, 08:25 AM
  #47  
 
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kja,

Perhaps you could switch things around a bit when you arrive too. Reservations are a good idea, but not necessarily carved in stone should you find something more appealing or the weather holds nicely somewhere and you want to stay...

Weather is such a problem in Switzerland - when the sun shines it is so magnificent. But 3 days of gray gloom in Zürich can be, well, gloomy.

Regarding Zürich - I think 2-3 days is good. You can see a lot in a short time as it is very walkable. But do walk - much can only be enjoyed that way. I don't understand all those that skip Zürich, as to me it is one of the world's most lovely small cities. But, others feel differently. Just the lake and hiking and a boat ride could fill a day or two - without even spending time in the old town - which has two parts on either side of the Limmat... There is a small square (Lindenhof) up above the Limmat that looks out over the old town area - do walk up hill and enjoy it.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/rainprel/4833587707/

Since you like art be sure to visit the stained glass windows done by Chagall - try for a sunny day and check opening times. A must see in my opinion. But, like you, I love art...

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/s...ch-fraumunster

The art museum in Zürich is under construction I've heard, but knowing the Swiss they will have figured out a way to make this wonderful collection somehow accessible. There is a small bit of everything there...

Do look for works by Hodler as you travel about - I knew nothing of him before living in Switzerland but came to love his work. In Bern they had a special retrospective a few years ago that I just loved - he painted a lot of scenes from the death of his wife from cancer... I'm an oncology nurse and he really captured this painful time. On the other spectrum, his paintings of the mountains are so alive with vibrant colors - cheerful and bright... Also in Bern - Paul Klee - an entire interesting museum dedicated to him. You need to take a bus outside the city to get there - not too long and interesting trip if you like him. Same with Fondation Beyeler in Basel - although that is a MUST just for the setting and building - the smallish collection is wonderful too and worth the 30 minutes or so tram outside the city.

Do you like glass? there is a trip by boat from Lucerne to Glasi Hergiswil - a glassworks. I mention it more for the little museum which is all automated and very "swiss" since you said you liked toys... and this is a great spot for souvenirs and a pretty setting on the lake. http://www.glasi.ch/index.php?id=2&L=1. The website does not do the setting justice...

I would do the William Tell if the weather is nice and skip if not. It is an amazing trip and even if you saw it years ago worth a revisit as your memory can only recall so many gorgeous views.

In Guarda I always stay here as it is reasonable and comfortable with a lovely breakfast and gorgeous view:

http://www.hotel-meisser.ch/go.cfm?home&language=EN#

Hotel Meisser has single rooms at a very good price and cozy and cute. Family owned.

It is a couple hours walk (lovely) from there through Ardez to Ftan where you can lunch at this pricier and very elegant hotel:

http://www.paradieshotel.ch/en/das-hideaway-im-engadin/

Eat outside if sunny, or downstairs in the pine paneled room if not. Special. You can take the train from there back to Guarda if your luggage is left behind or probably send your luggage ahead if you ask.

Well, I'm not due back to Switzerland until at least the spring and I'm very much enjoying helping you plan your trip!!!

Enjoy!
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Old Dec 30th, 2012, 08:40 AM
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Two trip reports of mine that might help. First includes the Bernina Express and the second the BO but only Wengen not my more beloved Murren.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-5-days.cfm


http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rip-report.cfm
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Old Dec 30th, 2012, 03:52 PM
  #49  
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➢ gruezi

Thanks for your many recommendations!

I definitely plan on exploring Zurich (and the other cities I see) on foot. For me, that’s a core part of exploring any place! And thanks for making sure that key museums and works of art (like the Chagall windows) are on my list – they are! I am familiar with Hodler and (of course) Klee and am looking forward to seeing their work as I travel around the country.

“I'm an oncology nurse” – wow, such a difficult and incredibly important job. Kudos! My brother recently some some of Hodler’s paintings of his wife during her battle with cancer; he also found them very moving.

I was not familiar with the Glasi Hergiswil and am glad you mentioned it. I have many fond memories of watching glass being made in Venice and Murano.

I’ve added Ftan in my walk from Guarda through Ardez – I’m so looking forward to that day!

And thanks for bringing your trip reports to my attention – very enjoyable! I’ve made notes about your restaurant recommendations (feel free to add other suggestions!) and your many other helpful observiations.
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Old Dec 30th, 2012, 04:30 PM
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Get the Swiss Pass....forget the car.

Travel to places where the weather is good. Wing it. The local tourist office will find you the best housing prices. or go to groupon Switzerland for best deals.

In no particular order definitely visit....

St Moritz, Lugano, Lucerne, Zurich, Zermatt, Lauterbrunnen Valley, Lausanne,Gstaad Zermatt, Interlaken

Prost.
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Old Dec 30th, 2012, 10:32 PM
  #51  
kja
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➢ sam

The car is forgotten; Swiss Pass it is!

“Travel to places where the weather is good.” Are weather predictions in Switzerland sufficiently accurate to use as a basis for planning travel? I was under the impression that the weather would generally be somewhat less predictable.

“The local tourist office will find you the best housing prices” – I am very glad that tourist offices continue to offer accommodation options to travelers. I am even more pleased that I no longer avail myself of those services! I clearly remember waiting in lines, sometimes for hours, only to find that the prices were higher than I expected for lodging that was less convenient than I had hoped. And although most places turned out to be at least minimally satisfactory, there were a few places (not in Switzerland!) that were so horrendous that I felt trapped because I knew it would take hours and hours to get back to the tourist information office and make other arrangements. So I must admit that I love being able to book in advance! (I did make one recent trip without advance reservations – a journey to China in 2010 – but doing so was outside my comfort zone, and the circumstances of that trip were quite different than this one.)

My current plan is to try to make reservations that can be cancelled with no more than 24 hours advance notice; consider adjusting my plans as necessary; and trust that I will find much to enjoy, fair weather or foul.

Thanks for sharing your recommendations and your list of favorite Swiss destinations. Happy travels!
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Old Jan 5th, 2013, 04:26 PM
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Kja you are helping me with advice for Turkey. In 2010 we spent 3 and a bit weeks in Switzerland then 2 plus in Provence. Swiss pass is way to go. Swiss tansportation so efficient. We did go in early September when you could access all the walks in the mountains. We flew to Zurich but went straight to Appenzell area. Did some hiking Inn to Inn. We then went to Bernese Oberland area and stayed in Wengen. Rented a condo. Loved being up above the valley. Went everywhere using trains, liftes etc. Jungfrau on a sunny day is worth every penny. Starting from Wengen you can get the jump on the crowds. On a cloudy day we used swiss pass and went on lake from Interlaken to Thun which I quite liked for a small city. Interlaken was very commercial but still worth a wander through and has big Co=op grocery. We stayed in a condo in Zermatt as well for 3 nights then went onto Vevey on Lake geneve. Used swiss pass to ride boats all over lake , great fun and walk trails through vineyards, combination of trains and boats all on Swiss pass. Took regular train to Gruyere but was really disappointed, was a major tourist trap but had been told to get directions from TA to walk from there down the hill at the back and along river and pathways to Broc chocolate factory. The view of Gruyere from a distance was it's best feature. The chocolate factory was super. We took regular train back but transfered to golden train and it was full so they put us in first class to Montreaux but didn't think it was a big deal.We visited Lausanne from Vevey as well. Stayed one night in Geneva to catch train to France. Are you set on June as Mountain areas will still have a lot of snow and early September rates drop for a lot of place to stay. Good luck
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Old Jan 5th, 2013, 10:32 PM
  #53  
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➢ Whistler North

Thanks for sharing a bit about your experiences! I hope my comments provided some information that was useful to you as you plan your time in Turkey, and I really appreciate that you have taken the time to provide input to me on my plans for Switzerland. The chance to both get and give is one of the great things about Fodors forums, isn’t it?

It sounds like you had a wonderful trip to Switzerland! You visited several of the places I hope to see, and I always find it reassuring to learn that others enjoyed places I’m hoping to spend some time. Given your comments, I’ll definitely read a bit more about Gruyeres. If I still go there, the idea of walking from Gruyeres to Broc is intriguing! Do you remember how long it took?

I’m still developing my plan, but currently expect to skip both Appenzell (argh!) and Zermatt (argh!) to free up time for the Engandine. Switzerland offers so many opportunities that I’m really finding it hard to pick and choose!

For better or worse, I am pretty much wedded to a May/June trip, unless I postpone my trip to 2015 or later – and I really don’t want to do that! I’m hoping this time frame will serve me reasonably well: I love wildflowers and think I’ll have a decent chance of seeing some in the Bernese Oberland. And I can imagine worse things than seeing the Alps in their “winter whites!” I probably won’t spend any time in the mountains until at least the 2nd week of June, so there’s a reasonable chance (I think! I hope!) that I’ll only see snow from a distance. Fortunately, my super lightweight, travel-worthy walking/hiking shoes are Goretex-lined. ☺
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Old Jan 6th, 2013, 06:32 AM
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I know the Engadine is much lower.I'm not sure the flowers will be out that early elsewhere or even there. I live in the mountains in Canada and flowers are not until much later.Put a post on the Swiss trip advisor forum as they have a lot of people that give good advice. I think the hike was about hour to hour and a half, we grabbed a bite in Broc, not too much selection there. We were too early in Gruyere to consider eating there. It was a full day excursion from Vevey.
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Old Jan 6th, 2013, 10:23 AM
  #55  
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Thanks, WhistlerNorth!
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Old Mar 21st, 2013, 04:49 AM
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Bookmarking!
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Old Jun 27th, 2013, 11:47 PM
  #57  
kja
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For my final itinerary and trip report, see http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...any-thanks.cfm
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Old Jun 28th, 2013, 03:47 AM
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thanks for reporting back!
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