We are a family of four (kids 10 and 12) traveling to Greece in late June/early July for 11 days as part of a longer European trip. We will fly into in Athens and spend a couple days there. We want to spend the bulk of our time in the Peloponnese plus a couple nights on an island. We only want a little beach time: we want to see sights and villages and nature. We will be renting a car. We prefer less touristed, nonresort type areas and lodging, and don't want to move around much. We are thinking of Monemvasia and or Napfion. Any recommendations of an itinerary and a laid back island that's easily accessible from either Athens or the Peloponnese?

Those are two great choices.

We took our kids to Nafplion. It's a very charming small town. We didn't have time for Monovassia, and I'm sorry we missed it.

Consider Olympia. We all enjoyed that for a couple of hours, and the Theater at Epidauros (north of Nafplion).

We also took them to Santorini and Mykonos, which are probably too touristy for you, since you don't want touristy. But if you've never been to Santorini, you might consider it anyways. It's SO beautiful!

Have fun planning!
Dina

Nafplio is a good base for the Peloponnese. There is a lot to see in the area and beaches close by if your children want a short break to relax. Nafplio is also great for walking around and for eating out.
Carolena

I'd definitely spend a cuople nights in Nauplion and then go south to Monemvassia. It is stunning. If possible, stay in the old town itself in one of the 14th century buildings that have been turned into hotels. Also in southern Pelopeonnese, I'll guarantee that the kids and you will be fascinated by the tower villages. They look like medieval, but actually were built in the late 19th, early 20th century.It is an incredibly scenic area to drive through. Don't miss Mistra the medieval ruins beside Sparta.
Vera

Thank you so much for these suggestions. It sounds like we should do a couple days Monemvassia (a friend stayed at the Byzantino Hotel there and liked it) and maybe use Nafplion as a base for several days. I am still hoping for an island recommendation.

Hi,

For an island, have you considered Kythira? It's accessible from Gytheio in Mani, southern Peloponnese, and is a very beautiful island. You could also visit Elafonissos which is just off the tip of eastern most leg of the Peloponnese, and which is supposed to be great for kids. Nafplio does fit your request of a non-resort type area but it is still VERY touristed. I mean.... let's be honest, it's one of the most touristed places in Greece, along with Santomykodelfometeoplaka. Since you'll have a car, you could stay in one of those vilalges you want to be visiting (Napflio is NOT a village!!). How about Dimitsana? That's a great place to stay... beautiful nature... cultural sites and museums... and not touristed in the summer (but does fill up in winter). It is a beautiful evening's drive from Mycenae/Epidauros area to Dimitsana via Vytina (take the highway to Tripoli and get off just before the city, go north and cut around the mountain coming back to Dimitsana or Stemnitsa on the other face).

If you go to Nafplio you will probably love it, so don't stress out. But if you're up for a bit of adventure, the mountain villages of Arkadia are what you are probably looking for. Monemvasia is great - but make time for the Mani peninsula as mentioned above. You will need at least a day to drive around the peninsula -- Gytheio -> Areopoli and south to the tip along the west coast, then back up to Gytheio along the east coast.

For nature, don't miss the beautiful Lousios River Gorge -- walking the Lousios River Paths is amazing -- entry near Stemnitsa, follow signs for Archaeological Site "Ancient Gorytna".

So yes, Kythira is laid back and is easily accessible from Gytheio aboard the old Myrtidiotissa boat.

I used to love Nafplio but after visiting a dozen times or so I head for the mountains. However, it is great if you are seeing it for the first or fifth time. (I do still take my students there -- older than your kids -- and they rave about it.) But they rave about Dimitsana more.

sorry...a bit scattered reply... hoping you can make some sense of it! xaroula.

I just realized I should have not said so cavalierly, "a lovely evening's drive" -- don't do this when it's actually dark, it's a bit windy -- "olo fourketes" in Greek ;-) -- and the Arcadians are kind of laid-back about guard rails and earthquake-rock in the road.

Try to avoid Nafplion on the weekend as it is crowded with people from Athens. Weekdays are better. There are three Venetian fortresses in Nafplion and the kids will love exploring them.
Monemvassia is an operating 15th centuary fortified town. Your kids will spend hours exploring and letting their imagination go wild. I understand it can be very hot in the summer. We were there in early June last year and it wasn't too hot at all. We also stayed at the Byzantino Hotel. It is really a series of rooms spread out all over the old city. Our room had a fireplace and overlooked the tower and the ocean. We were able to get the room for 70 euros which is way below posted rates, although I don't know what prices will be like in late June.

For a Greek Island recommendation, we always go to Naxos. It's economy is dependant on Agriculture so most of the Greeks you meet there will be permanent residents and will provide you with a more Greek experience than some of the other islands. Naxos town is full of twisting streets and alleys as well as antiquities. There are lovely villages in the countyside. I know you are not into beaches but Naxos beaches are very good and many families choose the island.
Having said that Santorini is spectacular, even if you only take the ferry from Naxos for a day's visit. The arrival by sea is remarkable.

xaroula, thank you for your detailed reply. It all sounds great and I'm sure will make sense when I get out a map. I will check out Kythira, that's one I hadn't looked into. stanbr, I have indeed been looking into Naxos, but have been put off by the 7 hr ferry ride (and I know I'd get seasick on a hydrofoil). I looked into flights to Naxos thru Olympic but they are booked for the days that work for us. Don't know if they might add flights later. I visited Santorini over 20 years ago; I'm not sure I want my memories of it to be revised!

LOL yes you need a map to make any sense out of what I said. However, if you do a quick Google image search of "Peloponnese map" you will find good maps. No big deal

I don't know how much driving around you are going to do but south of Kalamata are the Caverns of Diros. We were there about 5 years ago and it was one of the highlights of our trip. In a small "canoe" you are guided along a waterway in a dark cave that is full of stalagmites and stalagtites (excuse the spelling) it is incredibly beautiful and worth the side trip if you are driving the Peloponnese.

Hi! You can read my trip report called "Back from the Peloponnese - A Trip Report!" for more info...

I think that one night and two days in Monemvasia is enough. Once you have walked through the city, there is not much to do. While there, do drive to Limeni Geraka. We had our best lunch in this tiny village.

Also consider staying on Poros. Since it is a 60 minute boar ride from Athens and a 5 minute boat ride to the mainland, it is very easy to use this island as a home base. I will certainly do so when we return!

jojonana, I did read your trip report and it's very helpful. marken, we are happy tooling around to different areas by car, so we will look into Dimos. As for an island, I am now thinking we should do the island right after Athens, and then pick up our car for the Peloponnese (I don't want to do the island at the end of the trip and risk missing our flight due to weather etc.) I decided I could get meds and thus manage a high speed ferry, but Hellenic Seaways shows fast ferries to Naxos and Paros fully booked -- even for passengers -- on the days (in late June) we would need! All the info I've seen says you can wait to get ferry tix until you're in Athens -- so what's up with that? (I'll start another thread on the ferry question if necessary....)

Also, on the way to Monemvasia is Methoni. Another lovely ruined castle... and tho it was several years ago...the town where we had our best meal in Greece.
Nearby, is a nice upscale hotel... one of a chain whose name I can't recall -

This email I got from Hellenic Seaways clears up the ferry question:

In reply to your e-mail request, we would like to inform you that our timetables for June 2006 have not been officially announced yet. Therefore, we suggest that you may consult our web site (approximately by the end of May) at www.hellenicseaways.gr which is always updated and revised, featuring updated timetables, prices per person and vessel accommodation as well as possible connections (Interactive Map). In case of interest you may proceed with your bookings through our web site or our call center (0030 2104199000), by debiting credit card (visa or MasterCard). Furthermore, please kindly note that after your on-line reservation is completed you shall receive a confirmation with all your booking details.

Note that children up to 5 years old are free of charge and children from 5 up to 10 years pay half of the fare.

Thanks to everyone for their advice. We have been working with Dolphin-Hellas and have the following itinerary:

Athens: 2 nights, Central Hotel
Naxos: 3 nights, trying for either Alkyoni Beach Hotel or Naxos Royal
Nafplion: 3 nights, maybe Ilion Hotel
Mani: 3 nights

The agent suggested Cavo Grasso (family bungalows) in Mavrovouni as a base for the Mani, rather than staying in Monemvassia. I can't find any reviews of it. Does anyone have any thoughts on the hotel or location as a base?
Thanks!

Momevassia is a must. I give another vote for Elafonisos island if you can work it in. It has one of the nicest beaches in Greece and is a quaint fishing village.
http://www.elafonisos.net/

Poros is easy to reach from the Peloponnese and is a lovely, small, typically Greek island. We visited it for a day when we were exploring from the Nafplio area.
Carolena

For sure Monemvassia is too far away from the Mani to be used as a base. Gythios or Aeropoli would be a better jumping off point. It took us 8 hours to drive the Mani from Aeropoli at Gythios including several stops.

By the way the Caves of Dyros were mentioned earlier. The boat ride through the flooded caverns are remarkable. Legend has it, that these caves are the River Styx leading to Hades. Today they are not frightening but in ancient times you can see how myths are created.