Paris trip report May 10--May 15 Very long
May 16th, 2006 | 04:25 AM
#1
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Paris trip report May 10--May 15 Very long
I usually just read what others have to say and then research on my own, but after just coming home, I feel I must write a report.
My DWF and I have been to Italy 3 times before, but this was our very first trip to Paris.
Started out last Tuesday leaving from Philadelphia International at 6:45 pm. My DWF and I both have dividend miles with US Air and we were fortunate enough to be able to upgrade to Envoy Class at least for the ride over. What a difference in a trans-atlantic flight, rather than being back in the cattle shute! Bigger seats that recline, to regular silverware and plates, better food, amenity kits to free booze! I don't think I can ever go any other way again!!
A smooth flight and some sleep and we are there before you know it. So easy, I don't even recall the time we landed. We had a shuttle from the Bee Shuttle company shared with one other couple. (36 euros for the two of us) The driver dropped the other couple off first near the Arch de Triumph, which was the very first thing we saw on our arrival. The he drove thru Paris to get to our hotel. Hotel St. Jacques, 35 rue de Ecoles in the Latin Quarter. A fabulous hotel. This hotel hasn't really been mentioned to much on the boards and I'm not quite so sure why. Recently redecorated and the place is beautiful inside. Our room is on their website. Our room was huge. I was so worried about the size of rooms from all my reading here, but we had PLENTY of room and the biggest bathroom, and the biggest shower we have had now in our 4 trips to Europe. We were 5 minutes to Notre Dame, about 2 minutes up the street to the Pantheon, and 2 minutes down the street to the Metro (Maubert-Mutalite) and the price was excellent also 620 euros for 5 nights!
The only negative we could find in this hotel was that it does NOT have air conditioning. We knew at this time of the year we would not need it though. I probably would not stay here in the summer, as I am an AC type of guy.
We were lucky enough that when we reached our hotel, (around 10:30 am) our room was available and we could check in. We unpacked and went directly out to see Paris.
Wednesday: arrival, cloudy and cool all day, but no rain.
Walked down the street and to Notre Dame, here we bought a 4 day Musee Pass and as everyone mentions here. IT IS WORTH ITS' WEIGHT IN GOLD. Definitely buy a pass. We did not, I repeat did not walk up the tower of Notre Dame. I'm 56, my DW 54 and normally we would, but just arriving here even in Envoy we were quite tired. But we did walk, and walk, and walk. We then continued to walk around after visiting Notre Dame, to get the lay of the land. We went up to the Cluny Musee, then walked over the see the church at St. Sulspice, then walked way back to our hotel.
We got back about to our hotel and took a short nap and freshened up a bit and then set out for more. This time we walked up to the Pantheon and then walked around a bit more. We decided since it was Wednesday we would go over to the Louvre. We did take a Taxi as we weren't up on the Metro yet and it seemed easier for now. We did manage to see quite a bit at the Louvre (on a fast pace, I might add)
From the Louvre we took a taxi to Chez Henri on rue de Fosses-Saint Bernard. We did not have reservations, but we were there at 7:30 on the dot and they were very accommodating. I had the best steak with pepper sauce and the accompaning fries were the absolute best I have ever had. We then walked around the corner the see Notre Dame at night and then back to our hotel around 11:30 pm. Needless to say we slept very well that night.
More to come later.
My DWF and I have been to Italy 3 times before, but this was our very first trip to Paris.
Started out last Tuesday leaving from Philadelphia International at 6:45 pm. My DWF and I both have dividend miles with US Air and we were fortunate enough to be able to upgrade to Envoy Class at least for the ride over. What a difference in a trans-atlantic flight, rather than being back in the cattle shute! Bigger seats that recline, to regular silverware and plates, better food, amenity kits to free booze! I don't think I can ever go any other way again!!
A smooth flight and some sleep and we are there before you know it. So easy, I don't even recall the time we landed. We had a shuttle from the Bee Shuttle company shared with one other couple. (36 euros for the two of us) The driver dropped the other couple off first near the Arch de Triumph, which was the very first thing we saw on our arrival. The he drove thru Paris to get to our hotel. Hotel St. Jacques, 35 rue de Ecoles in the Latin Quarter. A fabulous hotel. This hotel hasn't really been mentioned to much on the boards and I'm not quite so sure why. Recently redecorated and the place is beautiful inside. Our room is on their website. Our room was huge. I was so worried about the size of rooms from all my reading here, but we had PLENTY of room and the biggest bathroom, and the biggest shower we have had now in our 4 trips to Europe. We were 5 minutes to Notre Dame, about 2 minutes up the street to the Pantheon, and 2 minutes down the street to the Metro (Maubert-Mutalite) and the price was excellent also 620 euros for 5 nights!
The only negative we could find in this hotel was that it does NOT have air conditioning. We knew at this time of the year we would not need it though. I probably would not stay here in the summer, as I am an AC type of guy.
We were lucky enough that when we reached our hotel, (around 10:30 am) our room was available and we could check in. We unpacked and went directly out to see Paris.
Wednesday: arrival, cloudy and cool all day, but no rain.
Walked down the street and to Notre Dame, here we bought a 4 day Musee Pass and as everyone mentions here. IT IS WORTH ITS' WEIGHT IN GOLD. Definitely buy a pass. We did not, I repeat did not walk up the tower of Notre Dame. I'm 56, my DW 54 and normally we would, but just arriving here even in Envoy we were quite tired. But we did walk, and walk, and walk. We then continued to walk around after visiting Notre Dame, to get the lay of the land. We went up to the Cluny Musee, then walked over the see the church at St. Sulspice, then walked way back to our hotel.
We got back about to our hotel and took a short nap and freshened up a bit and then set out for more. This time we walked up to the Pantheon and then walked around a bit more. We decided since it was Wednesday we would go over to the Louvre. We did take a Taxi as we weren't up on the Metro yet and it seemed easier for now. We did manage to see quite a bit at the Louvre (on a fast pace, I might add)
From the Louvre we took a taxi to Chez Henri on rue de Fosses-Saint Bernard. We did not have reservations, but we were there at 7:30 on the dot and they were very accommodating. I had the best steak with pepper sauce and the accompaning fries were the absolute best I have ever had. We then walked around the corner the see Notre Dame at night and then back to our hotel around 11:30 pm. Needless to say we slept very well that night.
More to come later.
May 16th, 2006 | 04:56 AM
#3
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Joined: Jan 2006
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"Dave in Pennsylvania" here
Continuing:
We awoke Thursday to Sunny skies, clear weather, a little cool, but it warmed to a beautiful day.
We walked to Place Contraescarpe and got coffee and sat outside watching the world go off busily to work. We then walked down rue Mouffetard and it was a lovely market street where my DW bought some scarfs and we split a pastry while walking around. We then bought a carnet of tickets and took the Metro to the Arch de triumph. The Metro is very easy to use and the people have been so nice, two ladies helped us and gave us the Metro Map, which then became my bible for the week. Went to the top of the Arch on a beautiful day! WE then walked down the Champs and had lunch at a sidewalk cafe. DW browsed some stores and we then decided to take the Metro to Sacre Coure. Not to self, wait for the elevator to take you out of the Metro. We didn't! Big mistake, you are about 5 stories down and it seemed like it would never end to get to the top! Walked over the Sacre Couer and took the funiculare to the top. We then went in the church, and then on the pl. tertre for a quick stroll around dodging the artists trying to paint your picture. A very interesting place. Took the Metro back to our hotel and got ready to go to dinner as we had reservations for Bofinger which I took from reading this site. An excellent meal in a beautiful place. My wife had the Lamb, and i had the Bofinger specialty of the house--sauerkraut with sausages and duck. We both had the best French Onion Soup in the world for our appetizer. And also the best Creme Breulee!
We then walked up to Pl. des Vosges and said we would love to live here. We then caught the Metro and went to Ecole Militare where we had a wonderful night time view of the Eiffel Tower and its magical presentation at night. Back to our hotel and had drinks across the street at a little cafe and then to bed, as we were both excited of going to Jules Verne for lunch in the Eiffel tomorrow!
Continuing:
We awoke Thursday to Sunny skies, clear weather, a little cool, but it warmed to a beautiful day.
We walked to Place Contraescarpe and got coffee and sat outside watching the world go off busily to work. We then walked down rue Mouffetard and it was a lovely market street where my DW bought some scarfs and we split a pastry while walking around. We then bought a carnet of tickets and took the Metro to the Arch de triumph. The Metro is very easy to use and the people have been so nice, two ladies helped us and gave us the Metro Map, which then became my bible for the week. Went to the top of the Arch on a beautiful day! WE then walked down the Champs and had lunch at a sidewalk cafe. DW browsed some stores and we then decided to take the Metro to Sacre Coure. Not to self, wait for the elevator to take you out of the Metro. We didn't! Big mistake, you are about 5 stories down and it seemed like it would never end to get to the top! Walked over the Sacre Couer and took the funiculare to the top. We then went in the church, and then on the pl. tertre for a quick stroll around dodging the artists trying to paint your picture. A very interesting place. Took the Metro back to our hotel and got ready to go to dinner as we had reservations for Bofinger which I took from reading this site. An excellent meal in a beautiful place. My wife had the Lamb, and i had the Bofinger specialty of the house--sauerkraut with sausages and duck. We both had the best French Onion Soup in the world for our appetizer. And also the best Creme Breulee!
We then walked up to Pl. des Vosges and said we would love to live here. We then caught the Metro and went to Ecole Militare where we had a wonderful night time view of the Eiffel Tower and its magical presentation at night. Back to our hotel and had drinks across the street at a little cafe and then to bed, as we were both excited of going to Jules Verne for lunch in the Eiffel tomorrow!
May 16th, 2006 | 10:09 AM
#7
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Continuing:
Friday morning: Another day of 65-70 degrees of sunshine!! Slept til 9 am, must have been tired as i don't really sleep past 7:30, ever!
Today we took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower at about 11 am for our lunch at Jules Verne. I was just thinking about all the talk about pickpockets in Europe and that this is our 5th trip and have never had this happen to us when, yup, you guessed it. They tried. Getting off the Metro I was walking up the left hand side with my wife on my right. We are very careful and are aware of our surroundings at all times. I had my wallet in my cargo pocket on the left side. That is why I walked up the stairs on the left. First of all, there was no one in front of me on the steps and no one behind me when we came to a landing. One more flight to go. Halfway up the stairs I felt a finger go in my cargo pocket, (it has 2 velcro snaps on it and you can't get the wallet out without opening it up, not enough room) I quickly jumped and smacked at the hand hard that was at my side, the hand smacked against the wall. As this was happening, my wife thought these 2 girls around the ages of 15 were trying to pass me on the stairs, so she said move over they are trying to pass as I was smacking the hand away. (she didn't see me do this) I moved over and then stopped and turned around and the two girls were gone back down the steps as fast as they appeared out of nowhere. They weren't trying to pass and they didn't succeed in getting my wallet, but one of them did get a rather bruised and sore hand that day!!
On to the eiffel Tower, we had reservations for 12:30 and @ 12:15 they opened up the elevator and we were on our way. A VERY NICE PLACE with very formal waiters and service. NOT CHEAP! in fact, the most expensive meal we have ever had and that was lunch! The presentation was excellent the appetizers and deserts were excellent and the main course I would say was not excellent, but if I were grading it I would give the main course a B, the rest would get an A. We also had a table for two directly at the window. The view was better than an A+. Between the two of us having appetizer, main course and desert and splitting a bottle of wine (their cheapest) we ended up paying 338 euros for lunch. Ouch, but yes it was worth it and I would do it again. Truly a day to remember.
We then took the Batobus boat down the river to the D'orsay musee. After visiting there we continued on the boat to Notre Dame and then went over to St. Chappelle to see the magnificent stained glass. Much better than ND. From there we walked back to our hotel.
We changed our clothes and hopped the Metro up to St. Germain des pres and walked all around this lively area on a Friday night. Had a small sandwich le Bonaparte cafe and did some people watching before exploring more of the area. We then walked down to the Seine and over the the bride called pont des artes and hungout on the bridge full of hundreds of people. My wife had a conversation with 2 college age girls that was just wonderful. They hoped that people like Paris and so wanted for Americans to like them. It was a great night. We then walked along the river past Notre Dame and came up to Blvd. St. Germain and sat at a cafe for a drink. As this was a Friday night we were lucky to see the rollerbladers skate right in front of us. Hundreds, maybe more than that skating with a police escort thru the city every Friday evening.
Off to bed early (midnight) as we will be picked up early 6:15 am for a trip to Normandy tomorrow and the invasion beaches.
dave in pa
Friday morning: Another day of 65-70 degrees of sunshine!! Slept til 9 am, must have been tired as i don't really sleep past 7:30, ever!
Today we took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower at about 11 am for our lunch at Jules Verne. I was just thinking about all the talk about pickpockets in Europe and that this is our 5th trip and have never had this happen to us when, yup, you guessed it. They tried. Getting off the Metro I was walking up the left hand side with my wife on my right. We are very careful and are aware of our surroundings at all times. I had my wallet in my cargo pocket on the left side. That is why I walked up the stairs on the left. First of all, there was no one in front of me on the steps and no one behind me when we came to a landing. One more flight to go. Halfway up the stairs I felt a finger go in my cargo pocket, (it has 2 velcro snaps on it and you can't get the wallet out without opening it up, not enough room) I quickly jumped and smacked at the hand hard that was at my side, the hand smacked against the wall. As this was happening, my wife thought these 2 girls around the ages of 15 were trying to pass me on the stairs, so she said move over they are trying to pass as I was smacking the hand away. (she didn't see me do this) I moved over and then stopped and turned around and the two girls were gone back down the steps as fast as they appeared out of nowhere. They weren't trying to pass and they didn't succeed in getting my wallet, but one of them did get a rather bruised and sore hand that day!!
On to the eiffel Tower, we had reservations for 12:30 and @ 12:15 they opened up the elevator and we were on our way. A VERY NICE PLACE with very formal waiters and service. NOT CHEAP! in fact, the most expensive meal we have ever had and that was lunch! The presentation was excellent the appetizers and deserts were excellent and the main course I would say was not excellent, but if I were grading it I would give the main course a B, the rest would get an A. We also had a table for two directly at the window. The view was better than an A+. Between the two of us having appetizer, main course and desert and splitting a bottle of wine (their cheapest) we ended up paying 338 euros for lunch. Ouch, but yes it was worth it and I would do it again. Truly a day to remember.
We then took the Batobus boat down the river to the D'orsay musee. After visiting there we continued on the boat to Notre Dame and then went over to St. Chappelle to see the magnificent stained glass. Much better than ND. From there we walked back to our hotel.
We changed our clothes and hopped the Metro up to St. Germain des pres and walked all around this lively area on a Friday night. Had a small sandwich le Bonaparte cafe and did some people watching before exploring more of the area. We then walked down to the Seine and over the the bride called pont des artes and hungout on the bridge full of hundreds of people. My wife had a conversation with 2 college age girls that was just wonderful. They hoped that people like Paris and so wanted for Americans to like them. It was a great night. We then walked along the river past Notre Dame and came up to Blvd. St. Germain and sat at a cafe for a drink. As this was a Friday night we were lucky to see the rollerbladers skate right in front of us. Hundreds, maybe more than that skating with a police escort thru the city every Friday evening.
Off to bed early (midnight) as we will be picked up early 6:15 am for a trip to Normandy tomorrow and the invasion beaches.
dave in pa
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May 16th, 2006 | 05:31 PM
#10
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 43,742
Likes: 4
Dinpa, I laughed at your story about the two girls trying to get your wallet.
It happened to me once when I was stopping to watch a street performer.
Something made me aware of someone close
to my bag and I turned and stamped on the toes of a young woment trying to get into the flap of my bag. She fled(in pain) with another girl following her. As on the metro, they always work in twos so that they can pass the stolen wallet to the other who leaves the metro.
It happened to me once when I was stopping to watch a street performer.
Something made me aware of someone close
to my bag and I turned and stamped on the toes of a young woment trying to get into the flap of my bag. She fled(in pain) with another girl following her. As on the metro, they always work in twos so that they can pass the stolen wallet to the other who leaves the metro.
May 17th, 2006 | 04:16 AM
#12
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Joined: Jan 2006
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Saturday morning 6:15 am weather--cloudy and it was supposed to rain today. It didn't!! It cleared up and actually became a beautiful day.
Our van by Paristrips.com picked us up at 6:15 and we had 2 other stops to make for a total of 10 people. Our driver, who spoke excellent English was terrific! We picked up one couple that we found out lived only about 10 minutes away from where we do in PA. We didn't know them, but it was really unbelievable. What are the odds of that? It was truly a great day going to Pont du Luc, Omaha Beach, Arromanches, and the Caen Memorial and the American Cemetery. The bravery of those soldiers can't be measured. I'm going to watch Saving Private Ryan again. Very touching day.
We got back to the hotel around 6:30 pm and Saturday night in the city seems to have doubled the populations today. We quickly changed our clothes and hopped the Metro up to Bon Marche for MDW to have some time shopping or should I say looking. We then hopped back on the Metro and went up to Hard Rock Cafe so we could buy t-shirts for our grown children (24-30, 2 boys, 2 girls) 3rd wedding in July! College all finished. Anyway, we then walked back down, caught a sandwich @ cafe comedienne and then walked over past the Lovre and over to a very lively street area @ rue de la Huchette and then back to the St. Jacques. Versailles tomorrow.
We did walk thru some of the passages up by the Hard Rock and saw the hotel everyone mentions, I believe it is the Chopin?? All the stores were closed, but maybe on the next trip we will get in the passages when they are open.
PS It is a long walke from Blvd. Montmartre all the way back to rue Ecoles, but my DW did not complain, so we trudged on exploring this part of the city that we had not yet seen. We realized our trip was going to come to an end after tomorrow, so taking turns carrying our purchases we did walk the distance.
dave in pa
Our van by Paristrips.com picked us up at 6:15 and we had 2 other stops to make for a total of 10 people. Our driver, who spoke excellent English was terrific! We picked up one couple that we found out lived only about 10 minutes away from where we do in PA. We didn't know them, but it was really unbelievable. What are the odds of that? It was truly a great day going to Pont du Luc, Omaha Beach, Arromanches, and the Caen Memorial and the American Cemetery. The bravery of those soldiers can't be measured. I'm going to watch Saving Private Ryan again. Very touching day.
We got back to the hotel around 6:30 pm and Saturday night in the city seems to have doubled the populations today. We quickly changed our clothes and hopped the Metro up to Bon Marche for MDW to have some time shopping or should I say looking. We then hopped back on the Metro and went up to Hard Rock Cafe so we could buy t-shirts for our grown children (24-30, 2 boys, 2 girls) 3rd wedding in July! College all finished. Anyway, we then walked back down, caught a sandwich @ cafe comedienne and then walked over past the Lovre and over to a very lively street area @ rue de la Huchette and then back to the St. Jacques. Versailles tomorrow.
We did walk thru some of the passages up by the Hard Rock and saw the hotel everyone mentions, I believe it is the Chopin?? All the stores were closed, but maybe on the next trip we will get in the passages when they are open.
PS It is a long walke from Blvd. Montmartre all the way back to rue Ecoles, but my DW did not complain, so we trudged on exploring this part of the city that we had not yet seen. We realized our trip was going to come to an end after tomorrow, so taking turns carrying our purchases we did walk the distance.
dave in pa
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