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Old Dec 11th, 2005, 09:55 PM
  #21  
 
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Londonlover: All your suggestions (picnic in the park, river boat ride, changing of the guard, etc.) are great -- for a June trip. But TBelle's daytrip to London is <b>January 5</b>. Not likely picnic weather, nor would I recommend hanging around outside B'ham Palace for an hour for the changing of the guard in 40 (or 30) degree weather.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 05:11 AM
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Thank you all for your wise advice.

After reading and re-reading the posts, I *do* have some thoughts on the 4-day rail pass:

1) I feel we will need periods of rest, particular *warm* rest, and a good train trip will allow that.
2) Kristen LOVES trains, but has not had the opportunity to use them - just the desire.
3) Since we'll be in the country, I really wanted both of us to experience more than just the city of Paris...

All that said, I do now believe as you have told me that the RailPass was not a good economical move, but as has also been said, it is water under the bridge; I already have it. I've spent much time at the Rail Europe site trying to figure out how to reserve day trips using the pass, but alas, it seems you can only do that by paying.

Based on what I've heard here and what I've researched, I believe I'd like to try Lyon, Avignon and Bordeaux for 3 day trips. Worst case would be we had a lot of fun on some long train rides, and simply stumbled about in unknown territory for a few hours in between; best case would be no stumbling due to decent research ahead of time.

Question: Do you think, with the RailPass, we will be able to simply go to the station and board the train? Or must reservations be made?... Also, where IS the TGV station in relation to Montparnasse (cemetery) (14)? I have looked at countless maps, but this one is eluding me completely...

Many have said I have already overbooked, but when I look at my agenda, I have 15 full days, and have booked 2 firm day trips (London and Versailles), one entertainment (Cirque d'Hiver Bouglione), leaving 12 days open. Tack hop-on/hop-off onto that for 2 days, which isn't really a planned thing - more of a convenience, and there are still 10 days left. I thought 3 or 4 days on train trips out of 10 would be delightful, not an overbooking/overplanning exercise... No?

Dave_in_Paris - Thank you for that. Yes, the change I had plotted was indeed at Invalides, so if you say it will work, that is definitely what we will do!

BAK - thank you for ALL your advice. Yes, I had forgotten, our hotel rate *does* include breakfast - I think I forgot because I am not a fan of sweets, but of course, my daughter is... Loved your insightful views on the taking of the 11 year old from a father's perspective!

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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 05:17 AM
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As far as a bit of pre-planning ... information on what to see and do would be available for your decision once you're there...
I turn to metropoleparis.com. He lists the &quot;scenes&quot; (which are suspicially like the paris.org, etc. websites that list concerts, plays, theatre, exhibitions, all sorts of things...), usually it is a two part listing of what is happening in Paris at any one time. At least it gives you options of things you MIGHT want to do if you get museumed out.
Also, on Thursday's between 3 and 5 p.m., he (Ric Erickson) has a place for a meet 'n Greet for his readers at Cafe Corona. When I was there, it was nice to sit for a while and speak nothing but English! Lots of the attendees live in Paris and just come for a quick cafe or glass of wine. Nice group.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 05:26 AM
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First, I would take a taxi to your hotel from CDG. It will be direct and predictable. No problem with a shuttle not showing. The cost will be approximately the same.
Do I understand you are planning day trips to Lyon, Avignon, and Bordeaux. WOW. Bordeaux is sort of &quot; 'way over there&quot;. Make it just Lyon and Avignon, if you must. You could arrange this at the end of your trip and take the train directly to CDG.
Breakfast in Paris won't necessarily be &quot;sweets&quot;.
The TGV station at Montparnasse is the train station. That may not be the station you will use to go to your destination however. If it is Lyon, the gare will be the Gare de Lyon. If it is London, it will be the Gare du NOrd.
You may need to become acquainted with the SCNF site for your rail needs.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 06:07 AM
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What a great present for Little Miss K!
Your approach - a couple big agenda items over the long haul with ad lib days in between - worked well for me when traveling with youngsters. Something else that was helpful was to come up with a list of things to do /places to go at some point during the trip, then just pick one or more each day according to weather, budget, location and energy level. A decent guide book can help with this planning, and is indispensable. Don’t go overboard, though, and load up with too many. My favorites are Fodors and the DK Eyewitness series. Use the book(s) to plan your days. Sometimes schedules of opening hours have changed since the book was last printed, so re-verify once you are in town. Another good strategy is to start the day with the place farthest from where you are staying and work your way back. The L’Open Tour buses are a good way to get a quick once over of the major tourist spots that you can use to decide which places you want to come back to and spend more time.
The metro is actually quite simple to use once you get the hang of it. Each line is numbered and named according to the endpoints of the line. To figure out which platform you want at a station, know in which direction (i.e, toward which endpoint of that line) you need to travel. Transfers vary by station, some just a brief walk and others (like Chatelet) can be a real hike, often with lots of stairs. The RER is a separate system that goes further out to the suburbs, but within the city essentially operates just like the Metro.
As noted, it will likely be cold, so be sure you bring along clothes that you can layer, along with gloves and scarf. This is important not only because the weather may vary day to day but also because many buildings are heated to the point that you will likely need to peel off some layers while inside. Silk underwear is great in this weather – warm but light. Places like Lands End sell reasonably priced things. Most public places have a coat room; remember to not leave valuables (including your passport) in your checked coats.
For your train trips – which really appeal to the train lover in me – you can tote along your own food and beverages to avoid the less luscious and more expensive train food. The train stations have loads places to pick up quick food (but certainly nothing like American fast food) and drinks. And you may enjoy checking out some Parisian grocery stores, too.
One last practical note – your hotel will likely have at the reception desk cards printed with the name, address and phone number of the hotel. As a safety measure, pick up one or two for yourself and K to keep in your pocket as a way to help get back there “just in case” you get turned around or separated.
Bon voyage!
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 06:27 AM
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There's a huge amount to work with here, so I'll try to be brief, but..........

1. The idea of the hop-on, hop-off bus is to give you an overview of the city. I would therefore do it the day of your arrival, not on Day 3, though of course it will be fun no matter when you do it.

2. Buy your daughter the Eyewitness Guide to Paris for Christmas. She can read it and figure out what she wants to see in Paris, learn the m&eacute;tro and bus system, and find out all kinds of practical information that you seem to be needing. Involving her in the planning will give her some &quot;ownership&quot; of the trip and may help you out with answering some of your questions.

3. Really too bad about that Eurrail pass, but in any event yes, the best thing to do to make the most out of the money you spent is to use it on TGV routes. But do you plan for each of these to be a day trip? It's 3 hours to Avignon and 3 hours to Bordeaux - that's 6 hours total on trains each of those daytrips. That doesn't sound like fun to me. Can you not spend the night? Lyon is just under two hours, so that's do-able. Also consider Strasbourg - the wonderful Christmas market may still be going on at the beginning of your trip (you can Google that).

4. Buy yourself a Streetwise map of Paris for the holidays and study it. I doubt you'll be able to miss the Gare Montparnasse on it.

5. As Dave says, you can easily take the m&eacute;tro to the Cirque d'Hiver.

6. Check to see if your hotel includes breakfast in the cost. If it does, it's best to have breakfast there. If not, you can find a caf&eacute; nearby. France doesn't have &quot;pastry and cheese&quot; shops rolled into one. They have bakeries (boulangeries), patisseries (pastry shops), and fromageries (cheese shops). You definitely don't want to be running around to two or three shops to get a take-out breakfast. Just locate a nearby caf&eacute; and order coffee and a croissant, which is the normal breakfast in France. Your daughter will become an expert on all this when she reads that Eyewitness Guide.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 07:04 AM
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About a block from your hotel is the bistrot La Cerisaie, 70 bd E. Quinet; this small restaurant has a Michelin Bib Gourmand rating (means great food for cheap, relatively) and offers a luncheon menu at 14E. Please check it out, and you should reserve if possible.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 08:21 AM
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Another good word for La Cerisae, which is really tiny. And I second the recommendation for the Creperie Josselin, a bit of Brittany in Paris. If you like seafood, the Bistrot due Dome, at 1 rue Delambre, is good. La Coupole, which is at 102 boulevard du Montparnasse, is a huge, noisy, crowded, classic Parisian brasserie with great cold seafood platters and choucroute (sauerkraut with all sorts of meat) as well as a large menu of other items.

There are many movie theaters around the corner from you on boulevard du Montparnasse. Just make sure you go to one marked VO (for version originale) if you want to see an English language film that has not been dubbed into French. The French dubbed films are marked VF (version Francais).

There is tons of shopping that your daughter might enjoy both in the enclosed mall at the base of the Tour Montparnasse and all along the rue de Rennes.

On Sundays there is an art and craft fair on the boulevard Edgar Quinet. Several other days of the week (including Saturday, I believe), the same area has a food market. When I was there one time there was also a brocante market (like a flea market) but that is more sporadic.

All these things are within a couple blocks of your hotel. When I stayed in the area with my daughter a few years ago, we really enjoyed it.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 08:40 AM
  #29  
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Another hop-on-hop-off idea in Paris is the Batobus, a boat on the Seine. I think it's only about 11 EU for a two-day pass per person, and stops at the eight major attractions areas along the Seine. It's a scenic and leisurely way to get from one part of Paris to another. And, a nighttime boat ride on the Seine is a Must Do in my opinion.
Relax-- you will have a great time, and your daughter will remember it forever. If you click on my screen name above, you can find my trip report of London-Paris-Amsterdam, with specific recommendations for restaurants we loved there. Enjoy yourselves!
 
Old Dec 12th, 2005, 08:42 AM
  #30  
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I think you should calm down a bit. You are not factoring in Jet lag or relaxation. Trains in Europe, are efficient, but they are not like the Orient Express. You are going to London (for a day I presume) and then you want to do 4 or so other trips?

Go to London if you must and then take one longish trip out of Paris and stay for a day or two. Honestly, you won't want to spend 4-6 hours on a train per day. The weather could be rainy and there may not be much to see out of the window. I think your daughter will go crazy!

The Paris Bus Tour is not such a bad idea. I would take the whole tour once, to get your bearings and then decide exactly what you want to visit.
 
Old Dec 12th, 2005, 10:16 AM
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okay, just a few tips. First, do you have a good city map of Paris? If not, I'd suggest you get one immediately. Yes, you can get some free ones at your hotel in Paris, but you need one for planning. I would suggest the Streetwise Paris map, available in many bookstores. It has metro stops, train stations, etc. marked on it. The only disadvantage is it is cut off on the edges, but I think it goes down to at least the bottom of Montparnasse cemetery.

that is going to help you. Second, here is the URL for your bus tour, it has maps and you can see where you can pick it up
http://www.paris-opentour.com/

My suggestion about the TGV (Train a Grande Vitesse) was that those are high-speed trains, and thus cost more and will be a longer distance -- so, a better use of your railpass than a conventional trip 30 minutes away. I think you would enjoy that trip for the experience. I think both Lyon and Avignon are wonderful cities for day trips and both have plenty to see in the central area, walkable from the train station, and you will see a different area of France.

YOu can walk to the central &quot;place&quot; (where the Palais des Papes and lovely small museum are) in Avignon from the train station without much trouble. Lyon is also fairly walkable, although I took the metro some when I was there on a day trip. I think it might be of slightly more interest (hard to say), if you must choose one -- there, you can take the funicular up the hill, see the basilica, walk through Old Town, see the lovely main square and Hotel de Ville, and they have several excellent museums (decorative arts, textiles, etc). Both of these are beautiful cities on rivers, with vistas (don't miss going up to the little park in Avignon near the church to view the river and famous Post d'Avignon). Avignon is a bit farther than Lyon, of course -- but there are some runs that are only 2:40 (such as 7:54 am to 10:30 am). Strasbourg is much longer by train than Avignon, actually, although otherwise it would be a nice idea (it is 4-4:45 hours to Strasbourg). You might want to skip Bordeaux, or at least one idea.

For a shorter trip, Reims is a regular train and only about 90 minutes from Paris, as I recall. There is a nice cathedral (beautiful Chagall windows), quite a few nice museums, and it's a pleasant city just to stroll around. It is known for champagne caves, but you don't have to do that, given your daughter's age. I didn't.

Rouen would be my other suggestion for a regular train day trip -- it has the Joan of Arc history, and is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in France.

YOu must reserve TGV train seats, but not others. That costs about 4 euro at the ticket window in the station. YOu have to find the particular train station for your trip, as others said (Gare du Nord for London, Gare de Lyon for Lyon or Avignon, I think Montparnasse for Rouen, etc).

Since you will be very near the Montparnasse train station, you can go in there (up to second floor) and get some brochures of train routes, if you want.

I would also suggest you might enjoy going up to the roof of the Montparnasse tower to see the view. It does cost a bit, but I enjoyed it.

Another restaurant suggestion is Chez Clement, a moderate-priced restaurant with a pleasant decor and wide variety of choices. They are very pleasant there, and it's a good choice with a child. There is one only a block or so away from your hotel -- on Montparnasse boulevard going towards bd Raspail (about a block before it).

YOu don't have to buy things at bakeries rather than a cafe or take-out breakfast place, if you don't want. I don't, but I don't like eating walking around or on the run, I prefer to sit. Just don't worry about planning everything like that, when you are there, you can easily look around and choose what you want to do. There are a zillion places to eat around there, do not worry. There is a Brioche Doree over on rue du Depart, and one farther north on rue de Rennes (takeout bakeries). There is a real bakery in the Inno, as I said, and I think one on rue Delambre. Just don't worry about that. There are plenty of places on bd Montparnasse, also, probably places for breakfast there.

You also might enjoy going to a movie one night, there are many many cinemas around that location, which you will see. Lots of them will be showing American movies, in English (subtitled in French). Just look for VO (version orginale) next to the name at the box office sign to find one in English.

There is also an excellent outdoor street market on bd Edgar Quinet (just down the street from your hotel) a couple days a week in the mornings. That is Wed. and Sat. (about 7 am to 2 pm). There is also a special artisans market on the street on Sundays. I didn't care for it much, but some others on Fodors have(paintings, sculpture, etc).



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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 10:36 AM
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Hi TBelle:

Since you indicated that you are going to Paris for the holidays - why not stay in France altogether?

In review of your proposed itinerary, I thought of some comments/ideas as follows:

1) You can easily take the RER from the CDG airport into Paris yourselves. It is approx. 11+ euros each. I did this last year (stroller for my 4 year old and all) and managed just fine. Once in Paris, you connect to a Metro that is going to the 5th Arr (Montparnasse) and then walk/taxi to your hotel. The Luxembourg Gardens are near Montparnasse and are fun to go to and walk around, there are areas for children to play as well and things to see.

3) I don't think you need an organized tour of the Versailles. You can take the RER C directly from Paris out to Versailles. The palace is across the way, up from the train station. Once there, you can opt for an audio guide or a tour on the premises. Don't forget to take &quot;Le Petit Train&quot; around the gardens.

4) Hop-on/Hop-off bus? There are lots of places to see in Paris by foot. If you want to, you can start in centrally located Notre-Dame and see that. Then walk across to the Conciergerie (used to be a prison, Marie Antoinette was imprisoned there). Plenty of gore and stories to read and see that would fascinate any child. In Sainte-Chapelle, there are evening concerts admidst beautiful stain glass windows. You can then walk west towards the Champs-Elysees and do some window shopping along that famous boulevard. Don't forget to see the L'Arc de Triomphe (you can walk up the stairs or elevator to the top) for some great views over Paris. Keep walking down in the 7th to the Eiffel Tower.

6) Why the trip to London? While it is easy to do via Eurostar and the Chunnel into Waterloo Station in England, it makes more sense to see what you can in France.

For some alternate suggestions, why not take a TGV (fast train) from Paris down to the south of France and visit say, Avignon, Marseilles, Monaco, etc? It will be warmer down there and you can split your trip to see sites in both the north and south of France. Marseilles is a neat city, there is the island that the Count of Monte Cristo was imprisoned on in the harbor, with daily boats going out there. My 4 year old loved it there, I am sure any child of any age would like that experience. In Monaco, there is the Jacques Cousteau aquarium, the Grimaldi Palace, and lots of interesting things to see too.

7) A French rail pass doesn't seem really necessary as you can buy your tickets at the train station when there. However, if you are determined to buy ahead of time, check online at the Rail Europe site for prices.

Have fun and soak up the surroundings, Paris and France are wonderful.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 10:42 AM
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Huitres: Of course you have some good suggestions. However, TBelle has already pre-paid for all those things you advise against (rail pass, Eurostar to London, Bus tour, airport transfer, Versailles tour, etc).
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 11:03 AM
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One of my favorite things to do in Paris hasn't been mentioned yet. Check out Fat Tire Bike tours. They offer both bicycle and segway tours. Granted, it will be chilly, but a fun way to see the town.

I saw that you have had some suggestions for shoes/clothing to pack. I love my silk insulated underware as it breathes more when you go inside of a warm building. You could never take mine away from me!

Be sure to have a crepe from one of the vendors while strolling. I especially like Nutella and bananas.

Thinking of the future, you might have your daughter buy a sweater that will fit her in a few years if she doesn't buy the trendiest of garb. My mom used to do that for me when I was young.

Be sure to order your fill of hot chocolates in the caf&eacute;s. They are superb!

If you and your daughter are up for a tea room, Mariage Freres is superb. I did things like that with my grandmother when I was young. Noel is a superb blend for this chilly time of year!

I didn't notice if you had commented on luggage. What have you chosen for packing?

Also, a great idea for a Christmas present would be a nice photo album or scrapbook for her to organize when you return home.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 11:09 AM
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When I was 49, I took my 11 year old neice to London. I did all the research myself, but I asked her to do some computer searches for things she might want to do and let her have some say in these things, e.g. she chose visiting the Mews at Buckingham Palace, and I would have skipped them - she was right, they were interesting. She chose the London Dungeons - she was wrong, it was schlocky. She chose Madame Tussaud's wax Museum and loved it. So try to give your 11 year old some say in the project to give her a vested interest in the trip and realize that a few of the things she chooses might not be your cup of tea.

You will have a wonderful time - both cities are fabulous.
Note: The Hop-On-Hop-Off bus tours end at a certain hour and wherever you are on the line, that's where you get dumped off at, so pay attention to the time in the evening!

The Metro (Paris) and The Underground (London) are easy to navigate after a bit of study - do that BEFORE you go and you should be fine.

Have a great time and write a trip report when you get back!

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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 11:11 AM
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Hi, All~

Again, many thanks! The restaurants and trip ideas will be invaluable to me. I did go into town after reading the posts this morning and purchase the Fodor's Paris 2006 book; I've looked through it and my daughter is also looking through it. There is a map included with that one, so I'm a little more at ease!

Christina - thank you again for your recommendations. I will curtail the longer trip ideas (by now I'm thinking Bordeaux is definitely out), and have a look into the shorter ones. Perhaps we will skip down from the available four to only 2, but the recommendation to pick up the brochures and reserve the seats at the station takes care of putting my mind at ease.

I'm not planning to do much shopping, as my daughter's eyes are *always* bigger than my pocketbook, but the street stuff on Edgar Quinet mentioned sounds like fun!

You all have provided totally invaluable information - I have turned from a state of confusion and apprehension yesterday evening to a state of excitement and glee now... feeling *much* more confident about what will happen when we arrive.

Any more tips are appreciated, for sure!
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 11:33 AM
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No one has mentioned a day train trip to the Loire. I'm sure you &amp; your daughter would love seeing some of the castles. I've not done it but I'm sure you can find lots of info on the best place to train to.

Chartres is another choice. It's only a one hour train ride away. The cathederal is breath-taking.

Enjoy!
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 11:44 AM
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If you are wanting to travel by train to one of the castles, it can easily be done from Paris to Chenonceau. You will connect in Tours. Be sure to check out the train times. There are not many connections from Tours - Chenonceau and back. It is a tiny station just outside of the parking lot of the castle.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 02:07 PM
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I haven't done it but some posters have said that children like the sewer and catacombs tours in Paris. Depends on your child, sometimes an 11 yo girl seems like a 16yo and others much younger. Be sure to see the Louvre and Musee d'Orsay. Just do your research so you know what the highlights are that appeal to you each museum and where they are so that you can move in and out without taxing your daughter's interest. Depending on her interests, there are some specialty museums in Paris, http://www.paris.org/Monuments/ will list all that are on the Carte Musee. This is a 1, 3 or 5 day admission into all of the public museums and monuments. (Eifel Tower is not public, so not included). Don't buy it online, buy it at a major metro station when you get there and then at the first place you use it, it will be validated for the time period. Do anticipate doing the museum thing on consecutive days and start in the am.

IMHO the best hot chocolate is at Angelina's, it is like drinking warm fudge sauce. 226 rue de Rivoli. Not an inexpensive place and everyone should bring their best manners, it is a classic.
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Old Dec 12th, 2005, 03:10 PM
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For a novice traveler, I think you'd get a lot of use out of the Rick Steves' Paris book. He gives easy to understand directions and suggestions that will come in very handy. I like to use the colored stick-on tabs to mark the pages I need to get to easily.
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