Paris Report Sept 2006
Mar 1st, 2007 | 07:39 PM
#1
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Joined: Mar 2006
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Paris Report Sept 2006
Well, it's long overdue for my Paris trip report that I took back in September. So here goes.
Photos are here: http://tinyurl.com/2buxp4
September 9, 2006: Au Revoir Vancouver!
Today’s the big day. I’m flying out to Paris. I’m so excited. When I arrive in Paris, it will be Sept 10, 2006 at 1pm their time.
In the meantime, I’ll be entering daily updates here, no photos guaranteed. That may have to wait until I come back, unless the internet station has a flash card reader (doubt it though). Even then, I think I’ll post just one photo a day if possible.
Sept 10, 2006
Arrived safe & sound. However, my shuttle bus never showed up, so I had to take the train from the airport to downtown. It was a very interesting ride thorugh, going through north-east of Paris, which isn’t a pleasant scenery. If you recall a couple years ago riots between the youths and police, with car bombs and all in the suburbs of Paris, the train goes through this particular suburb. It’s extremely ghetto-ized, with lots of grafitti, maybe on every single building along the way. I was thinking, what am I getting into here?
(As for the shuttle bus fiasco - always check your dates and make sure you give the arrival date at your destination, not the departure date from your origin, which can be two different dates. The shuttle bus came on the 9th, the day I left Vancouver, not the 10th, the day I arrive in Paris. So it’s clearly my fault here.)
Okay. My highlights of the day are Notre Dame, cruise and dinner.
After checking in, I went down to the two islands that comprises the origin of Paris, and where Notre Dame stands. Notre Dame is HUGE and imposing. When I got there, mass was in session so I didn’t see as much as I could. But was able to take photos without flash. I did light a candle for my uncle, Ralph, who was in critical care. (flashback to now - I think I'm becoming a believer of prayers - he has improved greatly and beyond expectations)
Took a Bateau Parisian river cruise in the setting sun. It is very awesome. Took lots of photos of the Eiffel on a clear blue day.
For dinner, had pizza and wine at Pizza Roma. €11 total. It was pretty good, I had margherita pizza, which is about all I could stomach today, after the nerves of a no-show shuttle and an interesting train ride. The restaurant seem to be a local favourite, and no one spoke English, but I knew enough French to get by. Everyone that came in for dinner were greeted warmly by the people, as they are known to each other. I was greeted warmly in the way an unknown would be, but not as old friends.
Back to the hotel room at the Hotel du College de France. It was a decent room, clean, and small. I had a nice view of a church down the street if I leaned out and looked to the left. I thought it was well worth it.
Photos are here: http://tinyurl.com/2buxp4
September 9, 2006: Au Revoir Vancouver!
Today’s the big day. I’m flying out to Paris. I’m so excited. When I arrive in Paris, it will be Sept 10, 2006 at 1pm their time.
In the meantime, I’ll be entering daily updates here, no photos guaranteed. That may have to wait until I come back, unless the internet station has a flash card reader (doubt it though). Even then, I think I’ll post just one photo a day if possible.
Sept 10, 2006
Arrived safe & sound. However, my shuttle bus never showed up, so I had to take the train from the airport to downtown. It was a very interesting ride thorugh, going through north-east of Paris, which isn’t a pleasant scenery. If you recall a couple years ago riots between the youths and police, with car bombs and all in the suburbs of Paris, the train goes through this particular suburb. It’s extremely ghetto-ized, with lots of grafitti, maybe on every single building along the way. I was thinking, what am I getting into here?
(As for the shuttle bus fiasco - always check your dates and make sure you give the arrival date at your destination, not the departure date from your origin, which can be two different dates. The shuttle bus came on the 9th, the day I left Vancouver, not the 10th, the day I arrive in Paris. So it’s clearly my fault here.)
Okay. My highlights of the day are Notre Dame, cruise and dinner.
After checking in, I went down to the two islands that comprises the origin of Paris, and where Notre Dame stands. Notre Dame is HUGE and imposing. When I got there, mass was in session so I didn’t see as much as I could. But was able to take photos without flash. I did light a candle for my uncle, Ralph, who was in critical care. (flashback to now - I think I'm becoming a believer of prayers - he has improved greatly and beyond expectations)
Took a Bateau Parisian river cruise in the setting sun. It is very awesome. Took lots of photos of the Eiffel on a clear blue day.
For dinner, had pizza and wine at Pizza Roma. €11 total. It was pretty good, I had margherita pizza, which is about all I could stomach today, after the nerves of a no-show shuttle and an interesting train ride. The restaurant seem to be a local favourite, and no one spoke English, but I knew enough French to get by. Everyone that came in for dinner were greeted warmly by the people, as they are known to each other. I was greeted warmly in the way an unknown would be, but not as old friends.
Back to the hotel room at the Hotel du College de France. It was a decent room, clean, and small. I had a nice view of a church down the street if I leaned out and looked to the left. I thought it was well worth it.
Mar 1st, 2007 | 07:40 PM
#2
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 239
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Sept 11, 2006
I woke up at 7:30 am to get ready for a long day at the museums, namely the Louvre, Orangerie, and perhaps l’Arc du Triomphe. I had breakfast at the hotel for 8 Euros. I know I should be finding “my” cafe but right now, I don’t know Paris, let along what’s around the corner. I do know there’s coffee, baguettes, croissants, cereal, yogurt, ham, cheese and juice downstairs, so why not? Coffee itself was quite good, and had a croissant with confit du myrtle (blueberry jam), orange juice, and for extra energy, a piece of baguette with ham and emmanthel cheese.
After getting directions on how to get to the Louvre by foot, which is a mistake, actually - very doable as it is in walking distance but think about how much standing around are you going to do - I noticed the cafes nearby - most have coffee and croissants for 6 euros, and they are usually just only one cup of coffee and one croissant. If that’s all you subside on, then it’s good, but honestly, when you’re going to do a lot of walking and a lot of moving around, you need more than just a coffee and croissant. So the 8 euros at the hotel is actually a better deal in the long run.
First, to get a Paris Museum Pass. It was recommended to go to a smaller attraction to buy the pass, rather than to to the Louvre, and get in line to buy one. So I stopped at La Conciergerie. La Conciergerie is, or was, a prison for the French Revolution’s condemned. There were three levels of holding cells, based on your class and social status. If you were weathy and could afford your own cell, you had your own cell complete with a desk for writing your last will and testament. If you weren’t weathy enough to get your own cell, but could afford a single bed, you would usually share a cell with someone of a similar social stature, but with your own bed. But of course, if you were poor, penniless, well, you’re in a small cell with maybe 3 other people in a similar predicament, and you make do with a straw bed on the floor. The French never had to worry about overcrowded prison back then - their prisons were actually simply holding cells for that date with Madame Guillotine. Also featured was a reproduction of Marie Antoinette’s final cell, which was definitely much more luxurious than the cell for the bourgeious previously mentioned.
Well, I have my Museum Card, and now it’s on to the Louvre. It’s a fairly easy walk along the Rue de Rivoli, but several blocks. But of course, since it’s my first day, c’est rien.
The Louvre. It’s HUGE from the outside. I walked along Rivoli, and got to the first gates into the court yard of the Louvre, which is known as the Cour Carrée. What? No glass pyramid? Okay.. maybe if I walk through the arcade from this courtyard to the next one, I’ll see I. M. Pei’s work of art, or controversy, depending on what side you are on. But you know, once you’re there, you’ll find that it works. I don’t know how, but it just works. Maybe it’s because it’s been there for some times now that it becomes synonymous with the Louvre, but Pei’s Pyramid belongs. As I walked towards the line up at the pyramid to go through security, I noticed a rainbow coming from one of the fountains . Just magical!
Security - bags and purses on conveyor belts, sensor wands waved over me, and I pass through. Wow. It’s pretty impressive, I was so awed I didn’t take any photos. I went over to the information desk, to figure out where I want to start, by getting one of the plans. I decided to go thorugh the Italian collections today, including La Joconde, so that means going to the Denon wing. What greets me at the Denon wing was the Victoire de Samothrance, or the famous Winged Nike.
Victoire de Samothrance
Due to the huge popularity of the Denon wing, particularly the 15th to 17th century Italian paintings in la Grande Galerie, there were No Cameras signs everywhere. This meant, no photos allowed. This is not particularly enforced, and people still cheated with their cellphone cameras. It doesn’t matter - I can see these paintings in person, and I can get a book at the giftshop for references later on. The Louvre also has an extensive database of all their collections on the website, that you can get a pretty good look at. And I can always come back here to Paris again.
These paintings are spectacular in person. You might have seen some of them in books, or on posters, or in print somewhere, or even copies. But to see them in person can give you the chills. Botticini, Raphael, da Vinci (or what you can see of, with the Da Vinci Code fans crowding each Da Vinci painting, looking for clues), Fra Bartolomeo, Caravaggio, you name it.
I loved the drapery depicted in the paintings - you see the fold, and the light and shadowing. It’s hard to say what I like the best. I thought Raphael was awesome. I liked Fra Bartelomeo’s “Le Mariage mystique de sainte Catherine de Sienne” but the must amusing set of paintings was Guiseppe Arcimboldo’s 4 Seasons. I’ll let you look it up yourself to see why I think it’s amusing and cool. Don’t google it, use the Louvre website.
La Joconde. She has a room named after herself. She is the single most popular painting in the whole of Louvre. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, the one and only Mona Lisa, by the profilic da Vinci. I have to say, it’s not overrated, nor underwhelming. It is what it is. No more, no less. And I liked it for what it is. She was not as small as people made it out to be, but certainly perhaps the smallest painting in the room itself. AFter weaving through this small sea of crowd up to the front, it was nice to see. Poeple did still take photos, or phone camera photos, and security guards watched but rarely took action. Then I had enough of the people, and turned around, and … wow. This painting, “Les Noces de Cana” by Véronèse was just breathtaking. It was a large scale painting, taking up the entire one wall of this room, 6,77 m high and 9,94 m wide. It was quite beautiful.
Then I decided to have a look at the apartment of Napoleon. Once upon a time, the Louvre was a royal residence, and Napoleon was no exception. Napoleon seem to suffer from delusions of grandeur!
I had enough by now, and this was just one floor of one wing plus an apartment. Luckily I had set aside another visit to the Louvre for Wednesday afternoon. I was starving. It was well past 2pm, and the museum cafes were full or busy. I decided that I might as well get out and look for this salon de thé called Angelina’s, that I’ve heard so much about.
Angelina’s is world famous for it’s hot chocolate, and I guess I had to try it. But first, a more sustantial lunch consisting of quiche Lorraine, mescul salad, and un carafe d’eau (tap water). It was pretty decent lunch, and then finally, under the watchful eye of la dame at the table next to me, the Chocolate chaud d’afrique. It is richly thick chocolate, served in a little pot, that you pour into your cup, and then add whipped cream, also served to you in its own dish. It is delish!
Since Angelina’s was only right across rue de Rivoli to the Tulieres Garden, I decided to check out the Tulieres Garden. It was basically a plot of land with trees and plants, but with benches for people to rest, eat lunch or read, and a couple of cafes to drink wine or espresso. But at the very corner of the Tulieres Garden is l’Orangerie, where Monet’s Waterlilies permanently resides.
I believe that Waterlilies was one of his last works, and my, what works on a grand scale. They really don’t like it when people take photos, but as long as you’re not using flash, they leave you alone. It’s a very small museum, with about 2 or 3 rooms dedicated to Monet’s Waterlilies, and then downstairs, an exhibit of other impressionist paintings. I can’t recall who else, I’m sure Manet, and Van Gogh. Anyways, I can’t really get an entire painting in one shot, so I didn’t try.
At the end of Tulieres Garden, you cross the street and you’re in Place de la Concorde. It’s basically a plaza type of place, with statues and fountains. It’s pretty impressive, actually.
From here, I started to walk towards the Arc du Triomphe, but halfway there, I thought to myself, I want to climb it, but if I walk over there, I won’t be able to. So I took the metro which was just one stop away. It was probably a wise move, with about 286 steps.
Once I got to the top of the Arc, the view was pretty cool, seeing the spokes of traffic around the monument. I took photos of it, but somehow, in the excitement of this, I forgot to take the photo of the Arc du Triomphe itself! Well you see a little bit of it from Place de la Concorde above.
Surprises du jour: Parisiens are friendly. Yes. Friendly. Tap water is quite very good.
Get a Paris Museum Pass. You avoid line ups. You get security guards flirting with you, as it happened at the Orangerie.
I woke up at 7:30 am to get ready for a long day at the museums, namely the Louvre, Orangerie, and perhaps l’Arc du Triomphe. I had breakfast at the hotel for 8 Euros. I know I should be finding “my” cafe but right now, I don’t know Paris, let along what’s around the corner. I do know there’s coffee, baguettes, croissants, cereal, yogurt, ham, cheese and juice downstairs, so why not? Coffee itself was quite good, and had a croissant with confit du myrtle (blueberry jam), orange juice, and for extra energy, a piece of baguette with ham and emmanthel cheese.
After getting directions on how to get to the Louvre by foot, which is a mistake, actually - very doable as it is in walking distance but think about how much standing around are you going to do - I noticed the cafes nearby - most have coffee and croissants for 6 euros, and they are usually just only one cup of coffee and one croissant. If that’s all you subside on, then it’s good, but honestly, when you’re going to do a lot of walking and a lot of moving around, you need more than just a coffee and croissant. So the 8 euros at the hotel is actually a better deal in the long run.
First, to get a Paris Museum Pass. It was recommended to go to a smaller attraction to buy the pass, rather than to to the Louvre, and get in line to buy one. So I stopped at La Conciergerie. La Conciergerie is, or was, a prison for the French Revolution’s condemned. There were three levels of holding cells, based on your class and social status. If you were weathy and could afford your own cell, you had your own cell complete with a desk for writing your last will and testament. If you weren’t weathy enough to get your own cell, but could afford a single bed, you would usually share a cell with someone of a similar social stature, but with your own bed. But of course, if you were poor, penniless, well, you’re in a small cell with maybe 3 other people in a similar predicament, and you make do with a straw bed on the floor. The French never had to worry about overcrowded prison back then - their prisons were actually simply holding cells for that date with Madame Guillotine. Also featured was a reproduction of Marie Antoinette’s final cell, which was definitely much more luxurious than the cell for the bourgeious previously mentioned.
Well, I have my Museum Card, and now it’s on to the Louvre. It’s a fairly easy walk along the Rue de Rivoli, but several blocks. But of course, since it’s my first day, c’est rien.
The Louvre. It’s HUGE from the outside. I walked along Rivoli, and got to the first gates into the court yard of the Louvre, which is known as the Cour Carrée. What? No glass pyramid? Okay.. maybe if I walk through the arcade from this courtyard to the next one, I’ll see I. M. Pei’s work of art, or controversy, depending on what side you are on. But you know, once you’re there, you’ll find that it works. I don’t know how, but it just works. Maybe it’s because it’s been there for some times now that it becomes synonymous with the Louvre, but Pei’s Pyramid belongs. As I walked towards the line up at the pyramid to go through security, I noticed a rainbow coming from one of the fountains . Just magical!
Security - bags and purses on conveyor belts, sensor wands waved over me, and I pass through. Wow. It’s pretty impressive, I was so awed I didn’t take any photos. I went over to the information desk, to figure out where I want to start, by getting one of the plans. I decided to go thorugh the Italian collections today, including La Joconde, so that means going to the Denon wing. What greets me at the Denon wing was the Victoire de Samothrance, or the famous Winged Nike.
Victoire de Samothrance
Due to the huge popularity of the Denon wing, particularly the 15th to 17th century Italian paintings in la Grande Galerie, there were No Cameras signs everywhere. This meant, no photos allowed. This is not particularly enforced, and people still cheated with their cellphone cameras. It doesn’t matter - I can see these paintings in person, and I can get a book at the giftshop for references later on. The Louvre also has an extensive database of all their collections on the website, that you can get a pretty good look at. And I can always come back here to Paris again.
These paintings are spectacular in person. You might have seen some of them in books, or on posters, or in print somewhere, or even copies. But to see them in person can give you the chills. Botticini, Raphael, da Vinci (or what you can see of, with the Da Vinci Code fans crowding each Da Vinci painting, looking for clues), Fra Bartolomeo, Caravaggio, you name it.
I loved the drapery depicted in the paintings - you see the fold, and the light and shadowing. It’s hard to say what I like the best. I thought Raphael was awesome. I liked Fra Bartelomeo’s “Le Mariage mystique de sainte Catherine de Sienne” but the must amusing set of paintings was Guiseppe Arcimboldo’s 4 Seasons. I’ll let you look it up yourself to see why I think it’s amusing and cool. Don’t google it, use the Louvre website.
La Joconde. She has a room named after herself. She is the single most popular painting in the whole of Louvre. Yes, ladies and gentlemen, the one and only Mona Lisa, by the profilic da Vinci. I have to say, it’s not overrated, nor underwhelming. It is what it is. No more, no less. And I liked it for what it is. She was not as small as people made it out to be, but certainly perhaps the smallest painting in the room itself. AFter weaving through this small sea of crowd up to the front, it was nice to see. Poeple did still take photos, or phone camera photos, and security guards watched but rarely took action. Then I had enough of the people, and turned around, and … wow. This painting, “Les Noces de Cana” by Véronèse was just breathtaking. It was a large scale painting, taking up the entire one wall of this room, 6,77 m high and 9,94 m wide. It was quite beautiful.
Then I decided to have a look at the apartment of Napoleon. Once upon a time, the Louvre was a royal residence, and Napoleon was no exception. Napoleon seem to suffer from delusions of grandeur!
I had enough by now, and this was just one floor of one wing plus an apartment. Luckily I had set aside another visit to the Louvre for Wednesday afternoon. I was starving. It was well past 2pm, and the museum cafes were full or busy. I decided that I might as well get out and look for this salon de thé called Angelina’s, that I’ve heard so much about.
Angelina’s is world famous for it’s hot chocolate, and I guess I had to try it. But first, a more sustantial lunch consisting of quiche Lorraine, mescul salad, and un carafe d’eau (tap water). It was pretty decent lunch, and then finally, under the watchful eye of la dame at the table next to me, the Chocolate chaud d’afrique. It is richly thick chocolate, served in a little pot, that you pour into your cup, and then add whipped cream, also served to you in its own dish. It is delish!
Since Angelina’s was only right across rue de Rivoli to the Tulieres Garden, I decided to check out the Tulieres Garden. It was basically a plot of land with trees and plants, but with benches for people to rest, eat lunch or read, and a couple of cafes to drink wine or espresso. But at the very corner of the Tulieres Garden is l’Orangerie, where Monet’s Waterlilies permanently resides.
I believe that Waterlilies was one of his last works, and my, what works on a grand scale. They really don’t like it when people take photos, but as long as you’re not using flash, they leave you alone. It’s a very small museum, with about 2 or 3 rooms dedicated to Monet’s Waterlilies, and then downstairs, an exhibit of other impressionist paintings. I can’t recall who else, I’m sure Manet, and Van Gogh. Anyways, I can’t really get an entire painting in one shot, so I didn’t try.
At the end of Tulieres Garden, you cross the street and you’re in Place de la Concorde. It’s basically a plaza type of place, with statues and fountains. It’s pretty impressive, actually.
From here, I started to walk towards the Arc du Triomphe, but halfway there, I thought to myself, I want to climb it, but if I walk over there, I won’t be able to. So I took the metro which was just one stop away. It was probably a wise move, with about 286 steps.
Once I got to the top of the Arc, the view was pretty cool, seeing the spokes of traffic around the monument. I took photos of it, but somehow, in the excitement of this, I forgot to take the photo of the Arc du Triomphe itself! Well you see a little bit of it from Place de la Concorde above.
Surprises du jour: Parisiens are friendly. Yes. Friendly. Tap water is quite very good.
Get a Paris Museum Pass. You avoid line ups. You get security guards flirting with you, as it happened at the Orangerie.
Mar 1st, 2007 | 07:43 PM
#3
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Sept 12: Now I understand the whole “gardez l’eau” thing. You know, gardy loo, or how the word loo came about. If you walk onthe sidewalk on a narrow street under apartment windows, watch out for people watering balcony plants. today is going to be 29 degrees - Orsay museum today. Au revoir. PS I can’t sleep very well without my cats.
I found a cybercafe; but all the ones with the English keyboards are taken. Alors; French keyboards again: For example, where the a’s are; is q’s. Where all the w’s are; is z; and where all the .’s are; is : and so on. Once you get the hang of it; c’est bon: But it may make no sense to you.
Musée d’Orsay was fantastique. But not for the reasons you might think. The sculptures, in my opinion, blew me away. I don’t even know who the sculpturers were. The works were just amazing.
St-Germaine-de-Prés, the boulevard, was pretty cool. I just walked along this very long street; and it’s wonderful. Found Laduree; got some macarons. Tout sucrè!! Also the church of the same name, was pretty awesome. One of the oldest building in the city. I thought it was more impressive than the Notre Dame (but I haven’t been up the towers yet).Stopped for a croque-monsieur, wine & espresso. Found Starbucks, got my SIL a mug, and stopped at FNAC for more flash compact card.
I think I’ll go to Jardin du Luxembourg, and then head on back to the hotel to rest and decide where to go for dinner.
Et c’est ça pour maintenant!
Ended up not going to the garden, and had dinner at a small bistro/tabac, where I had the entrecote. It was funny actually, the waiter gave me a menu; and then when he took my order, he simply said what I'll have, which is the entrecote. Um... I was actually thinking of something else, but if you insist!
I found a cybercafe; but all the ones with the English keyboards are taken. Alors; French keyboards again: For example, where the a’s are; is q’s. Where all the w’s are; is z; and where all the .’s are; is : and so on. Once you get the hang of it; c’est bon: But it may make no sense to you.
Musée d’Orsay was fantastique. But not for the reasons you might think. The sculptures, in my opinion, blew me away. I don’t even know who the sculpturers were. The works were just amazing.
St-Germaine-de-Prés, the boulevard, was pretty cool. I just walked along this very long street; and it’s wonderful. Found Laduree; got some macarons. Tout sucrè!! Also the church of the same name, was pretty awesome. One of the oldest building in the city. I thought it was more impressive than the Notre Dame (but I haven’t been up the towers yet).Stopped for a croque-monsieur, wine & espresso. Found Starbucks, got my SIL a mug, and stopped at FNAC for more flash compact card.
I think I’ll go to Jardin du Luxembourg, and then head on back to the hotel to rest and decide where to go for dinner.
Et c’est ça pour maintenant!
Ended up not going to the garden, and had dinner at a small bistro/tabac, where I had the entrecote. It was funny actually, the waiter gave me a menu; and then when he took my order, he simply said what I'll have, which is the entrecote. Um... I was actually thinking of something else, but if you insist!
Mar 1st, 2007 | 07:44 PM
#4
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Sept 13: It’s not as mucky as yesterday, but still warm. I was going to do the stairs to the Notre Dame but it is too warm to attempt 500 steps. Went to Ste-Chapelle, and wow, the stained glass walls were just amazing. But that’s just a short visit; so went back to Notre Dame for a more leisurely tour. Got there in time for a noon mass, so I sat for the mass. It was quite nice. The centre is blocked off for mass; but you can still walk around the peripheral to take in the church. A nice blend of tourist attraction and a functional church - it works somehow. The mass area is roped off with signs asking to respect church services, but it doesn’t stop people from walking right up the centre aisles and stand in front of the priest giving communion to the congregate, and take flash photos. Doesn’t matter what nationality they were, all over. Nice.
Went to the Memorial for the Deportation, where France acknowledges their role in the acrocities committed during Vichy France, particularly deporting Jews, Gypsies, homosexuals, “social misfits” and the like. It’s very simple, but very powerful.
Berthellon ice cream. Very well-deserved of their reputation. I had a pear ice cream - yummy.
Found a wine store, and got a Chateneuf-de-Pape and a Bordeaux - for under $35 Euros. For both, not each.
Now dropping off the wine, have a youghurt, and then off to the Cluny to look at those tapestries…. and do another Louvre looky-loo. Dinner somewhere, of course.
The Cluny Museum of Medieval Ages was quite sublime. This building has been built around 1400-1500, with the gallo roman baths downstairs. So in fact, it’s actually much older than 1400s - dating back to the Roman times. It’s really weird - these buildings are still standing, and some of the buildings back home are falling apart, and they’re only built in 1945 or later. So much for progress. The toilettes were downstairs, and security guard joked that the bathrooms were built during the Roman times, so don’t expect modernity. He lied - fully functional, and I don’t know if I’m disappointed or relieved to find working modern toilets.
Decided to take the metro somewhere, to the Madeleine metro station, and the Madeleine church was just there, so I went in. The church is quite different from the Notre Dame or St-Germaine-de Pres. I think the Madeleine was completed during Napoleon’s time, well after the Revolution and the such. It is huge, as the other church, but very very sombre. The Notre Dame and St. Germaine is about the glory of God, where Madeleine wasn’t and that’s quite a remarkable difference in time, and the society in each time.
Walked over to Tulieres Gardens, which is adjacent to the Louvre. I wish we had parks like this in Vancouver. We have the Stanley Park, and little bit of green areas, but the difference is the maintenance. These little parks, or squares, are maintained by city workers, and only open during opening hours. It is locked after opening hours, and I think its what makes these parks very usable and enjoyable, unfortunately. But just before heading over to the Louvre, found another cafe, Cafe Flotte, to sit and have un soupe d’ognion et un croque monsieur Poulaine, avec un expresso after that.
This time I stuck with the French paintings at the Louvre. It is extremely large scale, and fascinating. But you can only do a little bit at a time, before you get claustrophobic as the air is still quite humid.
Walked over back to Latin Quarter at dusk. It’s quite lively on the pedestrian bridge, with people enjoying the sunset, picnic on the bridge etc. Unfortunately, when you’re by yourself, you are an easy target for gypsies and/or beggars, so I didn’t linger much, even though I’d like to stay and watch the Eiffel Tower lights.
Went to the Memorial for the Deportation, where France acknowledges their role in the acrocities committed during Vichy France, particularly deporting Jews, Gypsies, homosexuals, “social misfits” and the like. It’s very simple, but very powerful.
Berthellon ice cream. Very well-deserved of their reputation. I had a pear ice cream - yummy.
Found a wine store, and got a Chateneuf-de-Pape and a Bordeaux - for under $35 Euros. For both, not each.
Now dropping off the wine, have a youghurt, and then off to the Cluny to look at those tapestries…. and do another Louvre looky-loo. Dinner somewhere, of course.
The Cluny Museum of Medieval Ages was quite sublime. This building has been built around 1400-1500, with the gallo roman baths downstairs. So in fact, it’s actually much older than 1400s - dating back to the Roman times. It’s really weird - these buildings are still standing, and some of the buildings back home are falling apart, and they’re only built in 1945 or later. So much for progress. The toilettes were downstairs, and security guard joked that the bathrooms were built during the Roman times, so don’t expect modernity. He lied - fully functional, and I don’t know if I’m disappointed or relieved to find working modern toilets.
Decided to take the metro somewhere, to the Madeleine metro station, and the Madeleine church was just there, so I went in. The church is quite different from the Notre Dame or St-Germaine-de Pres. I think the Madeleine was completed during Napoleon’s time, well after the Revolution and the such. It is huge, as the other church, but very very sombre. The Notre Dame and St. Germaine is about the glory of God, where Madeleine wasn’t and that’s quite a remarkable difference in time, and the society in each time.
Walked over to Tulieres Gardens, which is adjacent to the Louvre. I wish we had parks like this in Vancouver. We have the Stanley Park, and little bit of green areas, but the difference is the maintenance. These little parks, or squares, are maintained by city workers, and only open during opening hours. It is locked after opening hours, and I think its what makes these parks very usable and enjoyable, unfortunately. But just before heading over to the Louvre, found another cafe, Cafe Flotte, to sit and have un soupe d’ognion et un croque monsieur Poulaine, avec un expresso after that.
This time I stuck with the French paintings at the Louvre. It is extremely large scale, and fascinating. But you can only do a little bit at a time, before you get claustrophobic as the air is still quite humid.
Walked over back to Latin Quarter at dusk. It’s quite lively on the pedestrian bridge, with people enjoying the sunset, picnic on the bridge etc. Unfortunately, when you’re by yourself, you are an easy target for gypsies and/or beggars, so I didn’t linger much, even though I’d like to stay and watch the Eiffel Tower lights.
Mar 1st, 2007 | 07:45 PM
#5
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 239
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September 14: Cloudy today, much cooler. Went to the Eiffel Tower today, and can I say this: overrated? I mean, it’s pretty cool to see this in person, and to go up in the tower via elevator, all the way up to 3rd floor, but once you’re on it, okay, let’s go, what’s next? It wasn’t busy, so things went quite fast. So I’ve got rest of the day free, and decided to find the Fat Bike Tours where they have English keyboards, write this up, and book a couple tours - the Montmartre walk tomorrow, and the Versailles bike tour on Saturday. Since paintings and sculptures don’t talk to you in the literal sense, I need to interact with people now. So, might as well take these tours. For the rest of the day, I’ll just walk around, and perhaps go over to Luxembourg Gardens as I haven’t been there yet. Au revoir!
Sept 15: Going to keep it quick and if I have time tomorrow morning at Fat Bike Tour office to elaborate more. This morning went to Le Grand Epicerie - the inspiration for Urban Fare in Vancouver. Urban Fare pales terribly in comparation to this shop. It’s a gourmand’s dream. It’s a bit more pricier than if you just go to the local verger (grocer), but just for the experience, hmm. Oh, and prawns. Why do we have the smallest prawns available? These prawns were jumbo huge xtra large prawns. And it says prawns, not lobsters, so I know my prawns. I think next time I’m in Paris with someone, I’m going to suggest an apartment hotel type of place, just so we can cook like Parisiennes. Lots of different kind of fish - we live on the Pacific Coast, and I’m so jealous that we don’t have these kind of variety. Huh.
Then went to Montmartre for the walking tour. Fantastique. We did the slow incline climb, starting in the Red Light District, whre the famous Moulin Rouge stands. Focus was on Toulouse-Latrec, interesting fella there. Next, the Montmartre Cemetary. We only saw a bit of it, with the focus on Dalida for some reason. Dalida was a very famous French chanteuse with a very tragic life, but won’t get into details here. But the grave marker is interesting. As we left, I spied a cat sleeping on top of a tombstone, so took a photo of that. Anyways, all very interesting climb, saw the vineyards of Montmartre, and the Bateau-Lavoie - where the artists all worked. Van Gogh’s apartments, etc. My internet time is running out, so I’ll have to stop here….
For dinner at Brassiere Ile de St-Louis for some authentic Alsatcien fare. Walked back to the hotel, and see Notre Dame awashed in night. No camera with me tonight - darn it!
Sept 15: Going to keep it quick and if I have time tomorrow morning at Fat Bike Tour office to elaborate more. This morning went to Le Grand Epicerie - the inspiration for Urban Fare in Vancouver. Urban Fare pales terribly in comparation to this shop. It’s a gourmand’s dream. It’s a bit more pricier than if you just go to the local verger (grocer), but just for the experience, hmm. Oh, and prawns. Why do we have the smallest prawns available? These prawns were jumbo huge xtra large prawns. And it says prawns, not lobsters, so I know my prawns. I think next time I’m in Paris with someone, I’m going to suggest an apartment hotel type of place, just so we can cook like Parisiennes. Lots of different kind of fish - we live on the Pacific Coast, and I’m so jealous that we don’t have these kind of variety. Huh.
Then went to Montmartre for the walking tour. Fantastique. We did the slow incline climb, starting in the Red Light District, whre the famous Moulin Rouge stands. Focus was on Toulouse-Latrec, interesting fella there. Next, the Montmartre Cemetary. We only saw a bit of it, with the focus on Dalida for some reason. Dalida was a very famous French chanteuse with a very tragic life, but won’t get into details here. But the grave marker is interesting. As we left, I spied a cat sleeping on top of a tombstone, so took a photo of that. Anyways, all very interesting climb, saw the vineyards of Montmartre, and the Bateau-Lavoie - where the artists all worked. Van Gogh’s apartments, etc. My internet time is running out, so I’ll have to stop here….
For dinner at Brassiere Ile de St-Louis for some authentic Alsatcien fare. Walked back to the hotel, and see Notre Dame awashed in night. No camera with me tonight - darn it!
Mar 1st, 2007 | 07:51 PM
#6
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 239
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September 16
Today was the Fat Bike Tour’s Versaille Tour. Oh my goodness. I think I mentioned earlier that Napoleon had a bit of a superiority complex. Napoleon pales in comparison to Louis XIV, aka the Sun King. Versaille is huge. We started off at the F.B.T. office, to get our bikes, and then rolled through the streets of Paris. Very unnerving. But we got to the train station all in one piece each. Got on the train, rolled through Western Paris, where it was largely development until we got to suburbs, with houses (not apartments for a change). And then finally the last stop - Versailles. Part of the tour’s appeal is to go to the market and pick up some picnic stuff, like bread, charcuterie, fruit, cheese and the like. Peach and figs - in season, so delicious stuff right now. Oh, and a 90 cent crepes - cheaper than the 3E crepes I’ve seen around here in town.
Then we rolled through the streets of Versailles the town, and got to Grand Trianon gates. The Grand Trianon, of its pink marbles and so on, was apparently the “get away from it all at the Chateau Versailles” kind of place, very peaceful, overlooking the man-made canal. Then we biked it along the canal, which is an X shape, or a + shape actually. Stopped and had a really peaceful lunch, and then when lunch was done, got back on the bike again, and went to the Chateau itself. It was pretty big, but not as big as the Louvre, and largely under renovations due to that big storm back in 1990s where it did a lot of damage to Versailles. So didnt’ get to see the Hall of Mirrors in it’s full glory. Saw only about 7 of 17 mirrors, so it was just to give you an idea of what it looked like.
The tour was pretty good, only that I was a bit disappointed not to see Marie Antoinette’s hamlet - we didn’t go by there for some reason or another.
Coming back, again, rolling through the streets of Paris. coming back was easier than going because it was all one way streets, and what are the drivers going to do if they see a gaggle of cyclists ahead of them? Honk? Sure. Let them honk. (for some reason I was almost going to say, let them eat cake…)
I returned to the hotel, pooped out, and passed out. The Blue Van had left a message confirming pick up for the day. Thank goodness.
Sunday, 17th Sept. I packed up, checked out, and put my luggage to the side; and went out for a walk. It was an early Sunday morning, and I went towards the Seine. No traffic, so I was able to take photos of Blvd St. Germaine and the various small streets without too many people. Found a cafe and had my first at-bar expresso - I know! On my last day!
Checked out the bird market that was just setting up. And finally one last look at the Notre Dame, remembering that au revoir is not good bye, it's until we meet again.
Today was the Fat Bike Tour’s Versaille Tour. Oh my goodness. I think I mentioned earlier that Napoleon had a bit of a superiority complex. Napoleon pales in comparison to Louis XIV, aka the Sun King. Versaille is huge. We started off at the F.B.T. office, to get our bikes, and then rolled through the streets of Paris. Very unnerving. But we got to the train station all in one piece each. Got on the train, rolled through Western Paris, where it was largely development until we got to suburbs, with houses (not apartments for a change). And then finally the last stop - Versailles. Part of the tour’s appeal is to go to the market and pick up some picnic stuff, like bread, charcuterie, fruit, cheese and the like. Peach and figs - in season, so delicious stuff right now. Oh, and a 90 cent crepes - cheaper than the 3E crepes I’ve seen around here in town.
Then we rolled through the streets of Versailles the town, and got to Grand Trianon gates. The Grand Trianon, of its pink marbles and so on, was apparently the “get away from it all at the Chateau Versailles” kind of place, very peaceful, overlooking the man-made canal. Then we biked it along the canal, which is an X shape, or a + shape actually. Stopped and had a really peaceful lunch, and then when lunch was done, got back on the bike again, and went to the Chateau itself. It was pretty big, but not as big as the Louvre, and largely under renovations due to that big storm back in 1990s where it did a lot of damage to Versailles. So didnt’ get to see the Hall of Mirrors in it’s full glory. Saw only about 7 of 17 mirrors, so it was just to give you an idea of what it looked like.
The tour was pretty good, only that I was a bit disappointed not to see Marie Antoinette’s hamlet - we didn’t go by there for some reason or another.
Coming back, again, rolling through the streets of Paris. coming back was easier than going because it was all one way streets, and what are the drivers going to do if they see a gaggle of cyclists ahead of them? Honk? Sure. Let them honk. (for some reason I was almost going to say, let them eat cake…)
I returned to the hotel, pooped out, and passed out. The Blue Van had left a message confirming pick up for the day. Thank goodness.
Sunday, 17th Sept. I packed up, checked out, and put my luggage to the side; and went out for a walk. It was an early Sunday morning, and I went towards the Seine. No traffic, so I was able to take photos of Blvd St. Germaine and the various small streets without too many people. Found a cafe and had my first at-bar expresso - I know! On my last day!
Checked out the bird market that was just setting up. And finally one last look at the Notre Dame, remembering that au revoir is not good bye, it's until we meet again.
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Mar 1st, 2007 | 08:39 PM
#9
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 108
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I think your trip report was wonderful and very easy to read, and am glad you had a wonderful trip.
I haven't been to Paris yet (hurry up May), but after reading many of the trip reports on this forum, I sometimes feel like I've already been.
The styles are often quite different, but I learn something from every one of them and always enjoy reading them.
Hope the time passes quickly for you until your next trip.
I haven't been to Paris yet (hurry up May), but after reading many of the trip reports on this forum, I sometimes feel like I've already been.
The styles are often quite different, but I learn something from every one of them and always enjoy reading them.
Hope the time passes quickly for you until your next trip.
Mar 2nd, 2007 | 06:06 AM
#12
Original Poster
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 239
Likes: 0
Thank you Barb, Artlover and Kaz.
Barb, you will have a great time! You posted a question about Monoprix. I went to the Monoprix just at the Grenelle metro stop, and I bought a messenger bag-style purse there. I needed a similar style so I could carry my mapbook with me as the purse I had took with me was too small. It was a real life saver - and to this day, I still get asked where I got my cool purse from! I didn't think that they had a great selection of cosmetics at that store, but better selection of personal supplies like hair products, skin products and the like! Do report when you come back as to which Monoprix was the best to shop at!
Barb, you will have a great time! You posted a question about Monoprix. I went to the Monoprix just at the Grenelle metro stop, and I bought a messenger bag-style purse there. I needed a similar style so I could carry my mapbook with me as the purse I had took with me was too small. It was a real life saver - and to this day, I still get asked where I got my cool purse from! I didn't think that they had a great selection of cosmetics at that store, but better selection of personal supplies like hair products, skin products and the like! Do report when you come back as to which Monoprix was the best to shop at!
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