We just returned from a very Merry Christmas in Paris for 7 days. In planning our trip, I was concerned with the cold weather and what to wear considering we planned on walking a lot during our stay. I read some of the boards, asked questions and thought I would relay my opinion on what Parisian women were wearing, give you a scoop on the crowds and to reinforce a few tips that all Fodorites recommend.

First, check the weather forecast before you go. Prepare for the lows and cold versus the highs -it gets cold when the sun goes down. Please don't take the advice of many posters and assume you should wear rain coats with zip out liners or North Face jackets. You will stick out like a traveler and probably be cold. The Parisian women (and youth) all wear stylish coats. 90% of Parisian women wear long wool or brushed leather/suede coats with beautiful scarves stylishly tied around their necks. (I was afraid my fur coat would stick out - I was so wrong - many, many women wore fur) Definitely pack gloves and a hat. If it rains, very few women carry or use umbrellas (they get in the way on heavily crowded streets). You can buy very inexpensive hats in Monoprix for 10 or 15 euros if you aren't sure if you have an appropriate hat to wear. I had a long conversation with a woman in the Louis Vuitton store who actually showed me her secret for staying warm - silk underwear under her shirt. (I had mine on too). Don't forget to pack warm wool socks and wear sensible shoes. Okay - many Parisian women wore higher heeled boots but I'm sure they don't do as much walking as say a tourist does.
I didn't mind wearing or carrying my coat around the Louvre - it was worth it considering the amount of time I spent in between sites. Remember - you can check your coats upon entering the D'Orsay. And don't forget to stop at a cafe for a cup of wonderful hot cocoa to warm you up.

On the touring side - a few tips and notes:
their were huge crowds everywhere (worse than June crowds)
Christmas Eve mass at Notre Dame was wonderful (with a very, very long homily) Mass can also be heard outside but go early to wait in line to get a good seat.
the lines at the Eiffel Tower were 2 hours long to ride the lift...
No one - was at the Arc de Triomph
the Champs Elysees was extremely crowded
make sure you buy your Museum passes before arriving at the "atraction" - the lines were very long
If you go to Versailles - dress very warm if you plan on touring the gardens as it is a 30 minute walk to get to the Grand and Petite Trianons. Definitely worth it!!
For anyone planning on going next Christmas or on a Holiday, the Tourist office has list of open museums on Christmas and all Holidays. Remeber - you can buy a 1, 3 or 5 day pass if a Holiday falls during your stay. The Eiffel Tower, a few smaller museums, the Water busses, metro, and both the red and green tour buses are all open on Xmas day.
If you have purchased a Museum pass, don't wait in the lines - ask a badged employee what entrace you should use (St. Chapelle's, D'Orsay, Versaille all had long lines all day)
Keep euros handy at Versaille - each time you use the toilette - you are charged .40 euros.
The Champs-Elysees crowds were very heavy in the afternoon and evening so if you plan on shopping there - go early.
The Xmas display windows at Layfaette Galleries and Printemps (sp for both)were very pretty but a MAJOR tourist attraction for Parisians and probably the worst sidewalk crowds I have ever been in)

I'm done..Just hope this meaningless chit-chat helps someone who might have been thinking some of the things I was when planning our trip.

And so... you recommend fur? Not what I would ever wear to Paris, but whatever turns you on.....

If it's really cold, I guess I'd agree, but I've seen SO many tourists, mainly Italian, in Paris, sweating in their furs just so they could look cool when the temperature hiked to 60 degrees or more in winter! It's very funny to watch them with the pancake makeup running down their cheeks while they will NOT take off the fur!

hmmm...very useful tips to me.
h/w, I'm still sticking to my raincoat.
wool coat are for them anyway.

Hi StCirq
I would recommend a long wool coat - I didn't have one so I wore my long mink. And believe me - I was so thankful I did. The 2 days of rain I wore a leather jacket and was very cold (even with a hat and gloves) We love to walk everywhere and the folks I was with were freezing in their wool coats.. Whatever keeps you warmest is best.. It's all about warmth... In respone to your comment - have you ever worn fur? Again.. until you have tried it... how can you knock it? Again.. solely my opinions after experiencing wool and fur during the same trip.

I don't understand wearing wool coats in the rain. Wouldn't it stay wet when it gets wet? I would think wearing a raincoat would be better. You are a tourist and even if you don't wear a raincoat it would be apparent anyway.

I didn't know fur was back in style. Wasn't fur and leather banned by the Carter Administration? I best set some traps out and reduce that pesky muskrat population in my swamp.

Seriously, I doubt you will change any minds about trying or not trying to look like a tourists. Even the die-hards "blenders-in" will not go without an umbrella and get soaked all for the sake of french fashion.

You did have a lot of other good info in the report. Glad you enjoyed your trip.

While I prefer a black full length raincoat with a fleece lining - good in cold, rain, snow and even useful without the lining if it gets warm - you are right about the umbrellas. Neither Londoners nor Parisians seem to use them in light rain on city streets. Therefore, it is good to have some sort of waterproof had. A French beret is a good choice.

glad you enjoyed your trip, wed.
Thanx for sharing.