My boyfriend and I are going in September to Sicily for 7-9 days, followed by a week in Rome. We're definitely planning on Taormina and Siracusa, but I haven't been able to decide on Palermo.
We'd probably go at the beginning of the trip.
We both enjoy getting the feel of a town or city through its streets, local life and restaurants. As far as sightseeing goes, we're content to see a few major things, but not into exploring every last church and ruin. We're way more into walking around and eating, and enjoying beautiful scenery - countryside, beach, city. We were in Spain last year and Sevilla and Cadiz were our favorites. We're both from New York City and love living here - also loved it back in the 70s when it was known for muggers, garbage, and nothing but hookers in Times Square.

Given all that, is Palermo a "must" for us? Or is it more stress than it's worth? Is it truly impossible to walk around in a liesurely way, or have the reports of its inhospitality to pedestrians been exaggerated?
Would we be missing out big-time if we just focused on the eastern side, relaxing in Taormina and taking a couple of daytrips from Siracusa?

Please weigh in with your thoughts, and experiences in Palermo.
Also, if anyone's stayed at Hotel Ucciardhome in Palermo, I'd love your opinions on it. My other prospect is b&b Ai Cartari.

Thanks!

Palermo is a vibrant city so with 7-9 days in Sicily, I think you should visit it, at least for a day or two. It makes a great contrast to the slower paced eastern end of the island. My husband and I visited Palermo for two days a couple of years ago. After arriving on a Saturday morning and checking into the Villa Igiea, we were able to relax a short while, swim in the pool and then head out to Monreale to see its beautiful duomo. After that, we walked around downtown Palermo and the harbor and visited some other churches before having dinner. On Sunday, we visited the Duomo, Palatine chapel and Capuchin crypt before heading out to Erice for lunch. Another relaxing swim at the hotel and then dinner at Mondello beach. We hit the highlights and managed to not be overwhelmed with the hectic pace.

Thanks, Grinisa - what was your favorite of those little side trips? Was Mondello worthwhile?

I agree! We were in Sicily last fall and, while I loved everyplace we visited, Palermo was a favorite. It is colorful and alive and a great city. It reminds me of the "old" Italy but is also up to date in many ways. We had delicious food and thoroughly enjoyed our 3 days in the city. Don't miss a day trip to Monreale. I think the cathedral there was my favorite sight in Sicily. It is quite incredible with Byzantine, Moorish and Norman influences. The interior is filled with Old Testament mosaics that were the most interesting of our trip. Enjoy Sicily. It is nothing short of fabulous!

By all means. You have not seen Sicily if you have not seen Palermo. If I had 8 nites there I would do 3-2-3. Read your history before you go, especially about the Normans.

Did this trip in 2004, would definetly do Palermo.The rest of Sicily is easy to drive and it is easy to drive from one side to another. Don't miss Agrigento on your way.

Thanks, everyone.
So far no one has chimed in with a "skip it" so....sold! Now I have to convince boyfriend that going all the way to Sicily and dealing with an extra flight (to the mainland) in the middle of the vacation will be worth it. For weeks I've been researching and planning and now he asks, "what about Umbria instead?"

I also vote for Palermo. We spent two of our 11 days in Sicily there last July. We did essentially what you said you like to do - just walked around, visited a few "sites" but mostly just wanted to see the city. We did a half day train trip to Cefalu ("fishing" village) which we really enjoyed. We didn't get to Monrale but the chapel in the Norman Palace in Palermo (and the church in Cefalu) have similiar mosaics so we didn't feel we missed too much. We rented the car as we were leaving Palermo and driving out of the city is not bad if you are from NYC. People told me I was crazy not to go back to the airport to pick up the car but I thought it was quite easy actually. From Palermo we went to Erice, stopping at Segesta and those two places are really wonderful. Try to see them before you head to the eastern side and Taormina and Siracusa.

In Palermo we stayed at the Hotel Joli which we thought was great.

Since you are from NY - something I found interesting in Palermo. You know all the types of slightly "tacky" decorations you see in Italian neighborhoods in NY (especially Queens,some parts of Long Island). Well, I'd been to Northern Italy a number of times and never saw stuff like that so I figured it was a style that Italian immigrants developed when they moved to the US - well it's not - it's Palermo style! My husband (not from NY) didn't get it but I found it really interesting.

Thanks, Isabel -
Always good to hear from a fellow New Yorker. Those are good daytrip tips. I'll try and find a way to fit in those places before heading East. If you have any other Italy recommendations for a city person, I'm all ears. We're also heading to Rome from Sicily - staying either in the Navona area or Trastevere. I haven't made up my mind.

I know exactly the decorations you're talking about: the red and green garlands that are up all year in what remains of Little Italy and that go up on Mulberry during the San Janeiro festival. Interesting that it's specifically Palermo style.

I think those type of decorations can be found all over the far south, not only in Palermo, on the particular saint's day of the town. I agree that you ought to visit Palermo!
Another New Yorker here saying "Hi."

Does one need a car to get around Palermo? I would take the boat from Naples..I do want to see the city because that is where my family is from.

You do not need a car in the city; you can take the bus to Monreale.