As many of you know from my various posts over the last few days I'm going to Paris over New Year's. I was reading the Fodor's destination guide which suggests going to open air markets for cheeses, etc. I would love to do this on my first day to stock up on cheese for midnight snacks and breakfast. Anyone know of any great food markets? We're staying at hotel Esmeralda (I think) which is supposedly on the Left Bank, right across from Notre Dame, and we're arriving on the 29th, Monday morning.

The market on the rue Buci is probably the closest to your hotel, and it's open every day. I was there two days ago and the cheese selection was looking pretty appetizing!

Hi
Rue de Buci is great
let me suggest that in your checked luggage you pack paper plates, plastic utensils, corkscrew.

You'll have no problem finding street markets in Paris, and you'll get lots of responses here. One of my favorites is on the lower half of rue Mouffetarde. I read somewhere that it's the oldest in Pairs, and it has both great variety and ambience. It's a pleasant walk through the 5th from your hotel. Stop at one of the cafes on the Place de Contrescarpe for lunch or coffee. I was last there just after Thanksgiving, and they were putting up Xmas trees.

Another vote for the Mouffetard. Check for the hours in a guidbook, though. I THINK it's only open in the mornings and late afternoons (ie after work time) All my books are in storage right now so I can't confirm that. Someone else here probably knows.
One of my favorite pictures from Paris is an early morning photo of a smiling butcher unloading an entire skinned calf from the back of a truck into his store. It's fun to get to the markets early enough to watch everyone set up

All great suggestions...thank you! And even though I'm not going until 2.5 months from now, I already have 'corkscrew' on my packing list!

I had an apt. near Mouffetard last summer and those shops do close down for most of the afternoon (maybe closing around 1 pm) and then re-open late afternoon. Many stores stay open rather late, actually, I was surprised--until at least 7 pm and maybe later. There is a good fromagerie on it down in the southern section, probably past rue Ortolan.

There is a roving market at place Maubert, however, which is much closer to that hotel. They probably will have cheese there. I think it is every other day (Tu, Th and Sat) in the mornings.

You can't really store cheese that long without refrigeration, particularly softer cheeses which are quite common in France. So I don't think you can stock up on a lot of cheese. Now maybe since you will be there at that time of year when it's cold out, you can stick it on a window sill or balcony? I don't know, Esmeralda is pretty quirky from what I've read, and I doubt if a lot of rooms have balconies.

Your post is exactly one of my "issues" for my trip Thanksgiving.
I arrive on Sunday; plane arrives at 6:15 AM...I can afford to be slow and easy...get into Town by 8:30 (???you think possible?). I can't get into my apartment until 11:00... I have a picture in mind of me lugging my duffel-bag on wheels through the markets getting my supplies...! Wine, cheese, coffee...I plan on trying to find the Rue du Buci Market too that morning. Even if you forget your corkscrew ... you'll find one there!
A friend, a travel agent LOVES the Esmerelda.. she would insist you get a room at the very top of the building to get the best views (she said there is an elevator up EXCEPT for the two top floors under the eaves!)

Susan, thanks for the vote of confidence for Esmeralda. It sounds perfetc for me, but not everyone has been pleased with it, so I wasn't sure what I was getting myself into...now I'm very happy about it. I will definitely ask them if I can reserve a top floor room.

Christina, thanks for the advice (on this and many other posts!). I was just planning on hanging a big bag with perishables out the window!

HOpe you have a good time. I didn't think the Esmeralda had minibars or anything, so just thought I'd mention that in case you hadn't thought of it. You'll have to be sure to get a room with a window on the exterior, though. I'll be interested in how you like that place.

I think the Maubert market may be good if it suits your schedule. There are regular shops around place Maubert, also. There is a regular good cheese shop (fromagerie) right there so you don't have to go to a market street for that, unless you want, of course. It is the Cremerie des Carmes (on bd St-Germain, in-between avenues Carmes and Montagne Ste-Genevieve) and the owners are from the Limousin area of France from what I've read. It's closed Sunday afternoons and Mondays. They have Cantal, Chevre, Comte, Camembert, Gruyere, plus others I'm sure.

There is also a good fromagerie on the Ile St-Louis, which isn't far from that hotel: La Ferme Saint-Aubin at
76, rue Saint-Louis en l'Ile

You're staying not too far from Place Monge. If you happen to be in the area on Wednesday, Friday, or Sunday, there is a great market with around 50 vendors selling everything from wine & cheese to meats and other cooked items. If you arrive by metro, you will exit onto the square where the market is located. The prices for cheeses was much better than I paid in other shops around Paris. Do try the Comte, my favorite.

Mmmmmm, we could devote a whole thread to French cheese. I've recently become addicted to St Agur. Heaven!

Get the guide Le petit Parisien, 3 plans par arrondissement. It gives a subway map for each arrondissement, a bus map and a street map. In addition, it lists the open air markets when they are avaialble. The first and second arrondissement have no weekly markets.

Hi mp413

Here is a link to most of the markets in Paris from a thread this past summer.

http://www.jack-travel.com/Paris/Par...arkets1_11.htm

Hi!

Thinking of going to Paris soon, and I googled hotel Esmaralda, with no luck.

Can someone post contact information for it?

Thanks.

PC,
It's "EsmEralda"...
http://www.eurocheapo.com/paris/list.../esmeralda.asp

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...de_France.html (shows the tel / fax numbers)

http://europeforvisitors.com/europe/..._esmeralda.htm