I have only two weeks in Scotland, and I want to see and do as much as possible without running myself ragged. I will be going mostly by rail, with a few side-trips by bus. General route-Edinburgh-Aberdeen-Culloden-Inverness-Kyle of Lochalsh-Skye-Loch Lommond-Glasgow. I want to see a beautiful ruined Abbey. Should I add St.Andrews or Melrose Abbey, or will Pluscarden Abbey be just as good and still be in my route? Is Glen Coe a must, or will Skye be just as breath-taking? I'm planning a whole day at Aberdeen for the Highland Games, is it worth it?(Remember I've never seen anything like them) For great castle ruins, is Eilean Donan Castle suficiant, or should I try to see Kilchurn as well? I would greatly appreciate any and all help you can provide me, as well as suggestions for interesting adventures along that route ie. Pony trekking in the highlands . Thanks <BR>

I want to see a beautiful ruined Abbey. <BR> <BR>The scottish Abbeys, becasue they were much smaller are not so spectaular as the English or French ones. They are attractive and you ill certainly get more of the "feel" I getf rom your posting from Melrose or Jedburgh than from St Andrews. But St Andrews has more history and is in a stunning location. Tough choice if you're only doing one (there, that helped didn't it?) Pluscarden is still occupied and a much more spiritual place. "Truly uplifting" <BR>Is Glen Coe a must- no, but hard to miss <BR>or will Skye be just as breath-taking? - more breathtaking, less atmospheric,less gloomy(not a criticism, just a description). <BR>I'm planning a whole day at Aberdeen for the Highland Games, is it worth it?- probably not. It's not the best anyway, being non-Highland and a big city. If you give me your dates I'll check which others re on and if any of thm coincide with your route. But anyway, noon onards will be enough, evn for a stalwart. <BR>For great castle ruins, is Eilean Donan Castle suficiant, or should I try to see Kilchurn as well?- no view on Kilchurn but try for Dunottar just outside Stonehaven, or Huntly castly in the eponymous town, as you go past on the train. <BR> <BR>Things to do on the route <BR>1.Discovery, Dundee <BR>2. Elgin Cathedral is pretty good as ruins go. <BR>3. dolphin watching in the Moray Firth <BR>4. boat trip down Loch Ness <BR>5. Seals at Elgol, Skye <BR>6. Clan Donald centre, Skye <BR>7. Dunvegan Castle and the fairy flag, Skye <BR>8. Talisker distillery, Skye <BR>9. Oban-boat trip to Iona <BR>10. Kilmartin Glen- lots of prehistory. <BR>11.Glasgow. see next posting

Glasgow 2nd half <BR>Glasgow is the home of the Scottish pub. They are all worth trying, but these are some of the best- definition of best here is “Glasgow”- <BR>The Halt Bar in Woodlands Road <BR>The Corinthian in Ingram Street <BR>The Scotia (my favourite- folk music, writers and journalists) Stockwell Street <BR>The Saracen’s Head (wan singer, wan song) Gallowgate <BR>The Bon Accord- for the beer. N Street( now a slip road of the motorway) <BR>Tennents in Byres Road <BR> <BR> <BR>If you want folk music try the Scotia or the Clutha Vaults nearby. For a ceilidh try the Renfrew Ferry (a real ferry moored on the river. Every Friday night) or the Riverside. <BR> <BR>Glasgow is a big city. It has everything you might like to find. Bits of it are rough, so you need to be careful about where you go late at night. The people are probably about the most friendly in the world. It has a small city centre underground known as the Clockwork Orange. (You’ll see why) <BR> <BR>There’s a fortnightly magazine called the List, which has all the current stuff in it for Edinburgh and Glasgow. Buy it as you get off the plane. <BR>

Glasgow 1st half <BR> <BR>Glasgow is Scotland’s happening place and it was also the European City of Architecture in 1999. <BR> <BR>There is an east/ west split in Scotland, which leads to intense rivallry between Edinburgh and Glasgow. Edinburgh is the ancient capital and Glasgow is the largest city. Glasgow’s fame is 19th century because of industrial grandeur and imperialism it’s often said that Scots built the Empire. <BR> <BR>Also the industrialisation coincided with the Irish potato famine, and hundreds of thousands of Irish people came to Scotland and especially Glasgow, leading to a second split- Catholic/Protestant. Scotland had a fairly robust Reformation leaving few Catholic families here, and the arrival of hundreds of thousands into the midst of Calvinist Scotland was a shock we have not yet quite got over. It’s one of the reasons that there has never been a n IRA atrocity north of the Border- everyone in Northern Ireland is related to someone in Glasgow. It’s said that if you tell people in Glasgow that you are a Jew, you are likely to be asked if you are a Catholic Jew or a Protestant Jew. There are two main football teams, which split along the same divide <BR> <BR>So, a place to stay-Adelaide’s Guesthouse in Bath Street. This is a City centre conversion of a church hall, used to bring in revenue. Never stayed there myself but am told it’s very good. En Suite rooms are c £40 per person per night. If you want cheaper, we can no doubt find it. If you are coming in University vacations, the student residences are available at very good rates. Obviously no en suite but clean and functional. One, Baird Hall, is an A- listed (highest architectural standard in the UK) Art Deco former hotel. <BR> <BR>Things to do- Architecture <BR> <BR>In Glasgow you start with Charles Rennie Mackintosh. Lots of Art Nouveau buildings and other design. The best building is the Glasgow School of Art, (good from the outside but tours 11am and 2 pm(Sat 10.30am))but others include, Queen’s Cross Church, the Mackintosh House(this was his house and shows what a complete artist he was. He designed almost everything in it); Scotland Street School (now a museum of education Mon-Sat 10am-5pm Sun 2-5pm); the Willow Tearooms; Martyr’s Public School; House for an art Lover in Bellahouston Park <BR> <BR>The Lighthouse is the gallery established for the year of architecture. <BR> <BR>The area from the city centre down to the river is now known as the Merchant City- lots of neo-classical 18th century stuff. West of the city centre there’s a grid of fine town houses built when the great unwashed pushed the fine folk out of the centre- lots of Georgian elegance. Another great Glasgow architect was Alexander “Greek” Thomson who worked in the second half of the 19th century. Lots of examples-fusing classical and eastern. Look at St Vincent Street Church. <BR> <BR>The Tenement museum is owned by the National Trust. Lots of central Glasgow was 19th century tenement buildings. The lady who owned this one died about 200 years ago, and it was discovered to be untouched since about the turn of the century. It’s an absolute time capsule. <BR> <BR>

Glasgow-wee hauf. OK I can't divide <BR>Other culture/ history <BR> <BR>The People’s Palace- late 19th century museum of social history with it’s Winter Gardens next door (10-5 daily) <BR>The Necropolis- Based on Pere Lachaise it’s stunning; high on a hill overlooking the City. I wouldn’t send just anyone there. <BR>The Burrell Museum in Pollock Park <BR>The Museum of Modern Art <BR>Kelvingrove Museum and Art Gallery <BR> <BR>You also need to know about the Glasgow Boys. It’s said that the Royal Scottish Academy (artists) wouldn’t take anyone from the west coast in the 19th century. A school of painting based on impressionism grew up in Glasgow around 5 painters- Guthrie, Lavery, Hornel, Henry and Crawhall in the 1870s. Best examples in Kelvingrove. <BR> <BR>Other options <BR> <BR>1. Shop. Glasgow is the shopping city to die for. <BR>2. Transport Museum <BR>3. Botanic Gardens <BR>4. Hunterian Museum <BR>5. Fossil Park <BR>6. Glasgow Horror Walking Tour <BR>7. Waverley (paddle steamer trips down the Clyde- there’s even a song about it) <BR> <BR> <BR>Festivals- Mayfest in early May <BR> Celtic Music Festival in January <BR> Jazz festival- October/November <BR> World Pipe Band Championships- mid August <BR> <BR>Food- For quality Glasgow’s probably better than Edinburgh <BR>Nairn’s TV chef quality Scottish produce simply cooked <BR>One Devonshire Gardens- “contemporary, vogueish and stylish” <BR>The Ubiquitous Chip- in Glasgow society for serious people watching <BR>Rogano- THE Glasgow restaurant <BR> <BR> <BR>There are lots of others but I have restricted myself to the ones I know about. There are in addition some great Indian restaurants- the Ashoka West End (watch out there are others with similar names) and the Shish Mahal are but 2. <BR>There are some great Chinese too. My favourite is the Loon Fung in Sauchiehall Street. <BR> <BR>Everyone speaks to you in Glasgow- usually too much! They have a language all of their own, and no-one is admired as much as those who are “gallus” ( you find out what it means, and explain it to me please) You will find the approach every where in taxis, shops, cafes, clubs, talking to policemen, just everywhere. If you are there at the weekend, you should go to the Barrows (Barras) a market with about 1000 stalls. Don’t buy and hold onto your wallet. Go to watch and listen and have breakfast in one of the nearby caffs. <BR> <BR>There used to be a great tradition of neighbourhood cafes, often Italian. Ones to look for/try are Coia’s in Duke Street and D’Jaconelli in Maryhill Rd. Understand these are greasy spoons, no sought out for cuisine especially. <BR> <BR> <BR>

Thank you Sheila, you are so very helpful! I'll probably leave off Glen Coe in favor of sky and I actually will be going through Huntly on my way to Rhynie. I have to do a bit of geneology for my great aunt, I'm looking for the ruins of a village called Tilleybreedles where my greatgrandfather grew up. I will cut back my time in Aberdeen, which will allow me more in Inverness and on Loch Ness. I have two other options for Highland games that fit into my schedule: Newburgh Games in Fife June 16th or Old Meldrum Games also June 16th. I can tell you really love Glasgow from your post, I will have to alot more time there. Thanks again Kathy

Inverness & Kyle of Lochalsh could be left out.(remember there is now a bridge from Kyle to Skye.)Eilan Donan castle is a beautiful fake, totally rebuilt this century.Take pix, don't go in.Side trip possible from here to Glenelg (south of loch Duich) has 5k years old Brochs (forts). <BR>Good ruined castle at the top of Skye - Duntulm.Inhabited castle in Skye - Dunvegan castle (seat of clan McLeod). <BR>Many small stables everywhere in highlands, inquire at the local tourist office, forward book not usually needed.Glencoe is good for a quick stop, but Skye is a big island with its own mountain range etc.The Skye-Glasgow trip is stunning, assuming you take the western route via Ft. William.(bus from Skye all the way or pick up the train at Ft. William.) <BR>Sheila : derivation of "GALLUS" - bound for the gallows.Meaning : combo of cheeky/irrepressible/stylish.(Not really translatable)

Hi Kathleen, <BR> <BR>I wish we were going to Scotland again this year! It's hard to post after Sheila, her info is great. Just wanted to agree with her on St. Andrew's - it's enchanting. Also, Elgin Cathedral is great, and I esp. like the chapel that they've completely redone. Skye is the best, I'm glad you've decided to go there. Try and do the boat trip on Loch Corusk (sp?). We missed it and have kicked ourselves ever since. Also, if you do Sheila's boat trip from Oban to Iona, take it a step further and go to Staffa as well. We did everything by rail and bus, with one car rental on Skye (not much convenient public transit there). Have fun, Scotland is excellent!

Kathleen <BR> <BR>Rhynie! Why didn't you say? Rhynie is nearly at the centre of Aberdeenshire and holds a place in all our hearts. Do you know about Rhynie Man? And, are you sure you've got the spelling of Tilleybreedles right? Lots of places her start with "Tilly" which is of Pictish derivation. The only one I can easliy find on the map within spitting distance is Tillathrowie. But I'll check with friend who farm there and see if they know anything about it. <BR> <BR>Of the Games you mention I would do Meldrum. It's actually quite famous- well, it's famous in Meldrum- and is great fun. But get out of Dodge before nightfall. It can be a bit of a riot after the show's over. <BR> <BR>I don't hugely love Glasgow. I prefer Edinburgh- sorry Frank, and thanks for the translation- and I would ditch Inverness except as a transit point; not add more time there

Again, thank you for all the info. I will pass up Inverness and Eilean Donan in favor of Kilchurn Castle and Old Meldrum. I don't know if I am spelling Tilleybreedles right all I have is the spelling my Great Aunt gave me. The directions I have for finding it are a bit vague. Find Tom Duff(which I believe is a house), go two miles to a stand of trees, go two fields past that to a gate, go through the gate and down in the field is Tilleybreedles. Along the way there is a Church and a Churchyard I have to find. Any help with finding this would be great! Thanks Again to Everyone Kathy

The Aberdeenshire mafia is on the case. What was your great grandfather's name?

Hi again! <BR>My greatgrangfathers name was Alexander H. Smith(don't know what the H. stands for) Born around 1848-1849 in Tilleybreedles, his first marrage was to a girl from Lanarkshire (can't find her name at this time. They went to the states sometime after 1910. They had three children (Will,John and Anna), then she died. Alexander sent word back to his brother James Smith to send a Scotswoman to raise his children. Wilhelmina Jemima Leipper(called Missy) from Newmill volunteered and they were subsequently married. I don't have the really important info like his parents names or anything, but I hope this info can help. I'll keep looking and contact my Aunt to see if she has any other pertinant info. Thanks Kathy

Kathleen,<BR>Hope you don't mind if I tag along on this thread. I only have 2 weeks in Scotland as well, and have very similar interests. Pony trekking would be a great adventure. Are you planning to take your riding boots and helmet? I also have some geneology to check out, but in Ayrshire, in Kilmarnock, the Dean Castle, my father's ancestry. This whole trip has been very serendipitous from its inception, to the amazing family discoveries along the way and the unmet friendships across the ocean. <BR><BR>How goes the lodging situation? The Isle of Skye lodging for us (me and my husband) is still up in the air, or should I say 'ayre'. For the romantics out there, what did you find inspiring? There are many ears and eyes out there to know whatever there is to be known.<BR>God Bless,<BR>Dr. Betty<BR>

Hi Dr.Betty, <BR>I don't mind a tag-along, the more the merrier. I don't do any riding here at home, so I don't have a helmet and I only own snow boots, they will probably end up tying me to the horse. No matter, I will have fun anyway. I will be splitting my lodgings between some castle hostels I saw that looked really interesting and B&Bs. My only trouble with this trip is making the decision to rent a car or take the train and bus alternative. I am VERY nervous about driving on the opposite side, but I think I will lose alot of valuable time using trains. How are you getting about, and are you going in June also? <BR>Kathy

I haven't done half the things mentioned and I have been to Scotland 3 times, spending a grand total of about 2 months there. I spent a few days there as a student too many years ago to bear thinking about and have done two month long home exchanges there in recent years. <BR> <BR>I generally get all caught up in the Edinburgh Festival in August and didn't spend my time schlepping around to all the islands. I have, for example, never been to Skye. That is for a future trip. <BR> <BR>Please remember that in the Highlands roads are often one lane in each direction (or single track) and driving is much slower than on US highways. <BR> <BR>There are castles and abbeys all over. I always say that in Scotland, there is one of those on every street corner. <BR> <BR>You need to read the guidebooks and make your choices. Having said that, no matter how you plan, you won't see all the things on your list. There is never enough time.

Kathleen, don't fear going to the highlands due to single track roads - this is not the case unless you really get on to small roads. There are two lane roads all over the highlands and they are kept in good repair. It is a small country so seeing a lot should not be a problem. <BR> <BR>I'll be there one week from today - 6th trip there, and it's beauty never lessens. Enjoy your trip.

Kathleen, I hope you're still around. <BR> <BR>My friend Jaq has traced what she thinks might be your family near Cairn Castle at Rhynie. The people who live there are called Barlass, and she suggests that you simply bowl up to the door and see if they know what you're talking about. I have the impression that she's already sounded them out. You've got the name a bit wrong which is why none of us could find it. <BR> <BR>I'm told the information is a bit stronger than a hunch.

Make that Craig Castle