Nikki

My daughter and I really enjoyed sightseeing independently in Athens. We decided not to take a guided tour and saw lots of wonderful sights. The area around the Acropolis has been pedestrianized and it is a great area to stroll among the archeological sites.

In addition to the Acropolis, we enjoyed walking around the Roman Agora and the Ancient Agora, both included in the admission ticket to the Acropolis. The Plaka is the picturesque albeit touristy neighborhood at the base of the Acropolis.

Monastiraki, in the same area, has a fun flea market on Sundays. I also went to the Central Market early in the morning on Athinas Street for a very gritty and colorful experience of Athenian daily life.

I describe the restaurants, music, and sightseeing we did in Athens in my trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34589254

beanweb24

Where are you staying in Crete? We're going to Chania next spring and are staying at Palazzo di Pietro...looks wonderful.

www.palazzodipietro.com

A traditional apartment during your timeframe looks like it will run about 104Euros.

Wifeybug

Beanweb24:
Funny you should mention the Palazzo di Pietro. I've contacted Christine about staying there while we're in Chania, Crete. You're right, it does look awesome. She seems really friendly and helpful. I noticed some other rave reviews on this place, so I decided to pursue it. Looks like it should work out for my timeframe. I'm so excited!

Wifeybug

Okay, if you all had a choice between the following accommodations in Santorini, which one would you choose:

Oia Mare, Esperas, or La Perla Villas???

Let me know. Thanks so much for your feedback!

TexasAggie

I have read many amazing reviews of Esperas on both Tripadvisor and Fodors. That would be my first choice!

brotherleelove2004

I toured Esperas and Oia Mare when I was in Oia in May, and I'm familiar with La Perla's location as well. They're all fine hotels. If you want unobstructed sunset views Esperas is the best. Oia Mare is above Amoudi and has a lovely view as well, although in the fall I fear you won't be able to see the sunset because of the position of the sun in the sky. The tradeoff is a view of Thirassia across the way from Oia as well as a partial view of the caldera, something Esperas doesn't have. Another consideration about Oia Mare is that you'll be walking up and down a lot of steps to get to and from the village above, as it's part-way down the steps to Amoudi. For me, La Perla has the best location of the three. Truthfully, I've never been that thrilled with the Santorini sunsets, nice as they are, so they're not a priority for me. I've been spoiled by tropical sunsets in the South Pacific, Southeast Asia and Indonesia. La Perla overlooks the caldera and at night you can see the lights of the other cliffside villages along the volcano rim.

But before you decide, take a look at the Aspaki Suites. For the money, in my opinion, they are by far the better choice. Their location is as good as La Perla, basically the same view, and they're decorated with a special artistic flair seldom seen on Santorini. The attention to detail is really something special. But understand that they are not part of a hotel. No room service, etc., just daily housekeeping, but you'll be in an environment you'll not soon forget.

www.artmaisons.gr

marshacarlin

Well, I just wrote you a long reply abut how great Oia Mare was when we visited it one October about 5 years ago and it seems to have not gone through. The gest was that we LOVED it. A donkey brings your luggage to the Oia Mare. It's about a 5 minutes walk into the main street of town. The rates go down in Oct, you can get a small apartment with kitchen and view of caldera. The grotto pool at night under the stars was fabuous. We got lunches at the small market (tdziki-cucumbers and yogurt dip) cheese, great bread and tinnnny sweet grapes and used out kitchen for lunches. Rented a car for one day to visit the archeological site that was being excavated...interesting.....drove through Thira (FIRA)---way too crowded and touristy compared to OIA but the place for nightlife if you want that.
Anyway, I hope this goes through so I don't have to write it again. (Iguess I should copy it!)
BTW we flew from Athens because the winds can blow hard that time of year and I remember hearing that the ferries can be canceled and we had a tight schedule. We also booked on line trhougha Greek travel agent and got a 25% discount because we did. I think it was Helos, don't have my notes with me here in the mountains of NH.
You'll love Santorini.....have fun.

beanweb24

Wifeybug --

There's a link already above to my trip report, with a thorough review of Esperas. We loved the location and the view - definitely a prime view of the infamous sunset.

I made the following notes that I'm not sure made it into my report:

* Room 101 has a really lovely terrace.
* Our room was 106 which shared a terrace with room 105. Luckily we didn't have neighbors for most of our trip (until the end).
* Room 110 looks nice and is just below the pool...great view. Only drawback are that the stair cut through by the terrace so there could be some traffic from other guests.
* Room 120 looks really nice with a huge terrace and full view of the sunset. This room's position is also somewhat more private. AND - it's mere steps from the pool. The terrace is large enough for 2 chaise lounges.

Wifeybug

Thank you so much for the feedback/insights. It really helps a lot. I am in the process of securing hotel reservations in Crete, Santorini, and Athens, and getting more excited about our trip.

One logistical thing that we'll need to figure out is transportation from Crete to Santorini on Oct. 6th. Do you think that we will have any difficulties taking a ferry at this time? What are our best options? Lemme know your thoughts and experiences. Thanks.

brotherleelove2004

In the past the express catamaran from Heraklion to Santorini has no Thursday schedule, so Oct. 6 is out for that particular option. And since the October timetables are not yet published for the car ferry, it's impossible to say whether or not you'll be able to make that trip on the 6th. Keep your fingers crossed and keep checking in at www.gtp.gr. Hopefully it won't be too much longer.

Wifeybug

Thanks everyone for the great tips and feedback! I'm even more excited because of your enthusiasm about your own travels to Greece.

I've gotten the hotels buttoned up for our trip. They are: Palazzo di Pietro-Chania, Esperas-Oia, and Attalos-Athens.

The only thing missing is our transportation from Crete to Santorini on Oct. 6th. So, I'll keep checking the ferry schedules. I suppose that we could always fly as a last resort. Should I try to nail this down/reserve before we get to Greece? Or can I easily figure it out once we get to Crete?

Now, I'm looking forward to learning basic Greek, and planning some things to do with my husband.

Eleni

There are many days of fasting for the Greek Orthodox faithful. My priest told me that he added up all of the fast days in the year, and there are 180!

For the most part, Greek Orthodox fasts require a vegan diet -- the exception being for seafood without a backbone (i.e. shrimp, lobster, squid, clams are ok, but not fish because it has a backbone).

In other words, if you stay away from the seafood, the Orthodox fasting diet is vegan. No dairy, no eggs, no animal products. And, since fasting is so key to the Greek way of life, it is easy to find a variety of vegan food. Wednesdays and Fridays are fasting days, and many restaurants have vegan food as their special.

The word "nistevo" in Greek (pronounced nees - TEV - o)means "I am fasting." "Is it okay for fasting?" in Greek is "Einai endaksi yia ti nisteia?" (EE-nay en-dak-si ya tee nee-stee-a). This word and question should help you ascertain which foods are suitable for your diet.

Wifeybug

Eleni,
Thank you so much for the dietary/language tips. I will incorporate these phrases into our language studies before we go.

sheila

Well, I have to say that I think you may well find the food thing challenging. I'm vegetarian but not vegan, and it's quite hard to eat out even at that level. It's not at all hard to eat well, if you're cooking yourself. The markets are full of fantastic fresh produce and it can be combined nicely with traditional protein bearing pulkses and things.

BUT- dolmades will almost always be stuffed with mince as well as rice, if you see them on a menu, and so on, and so on.

There is a veggie restaurant in Paleochora- the Third Eye- and I THINK I read somewhere that it's the only one on Crete.

The south coast has more vegetables on its menus than the north IMHO. You could try asking on explorecrete.com. Yannis might be able to help more.

From Chania, try swimming anywhere on the Akrotiri peninsula; or take a day trip to Falassarna or Elafonissos.

You can organise a day trip to Samaria. The gorge will get dodgier the later in the month you try to walk it. The trip people will keep you right.

You MUST go to Knossos- again a day trip from Chania- and you should take in the Archaeolgical Museum in Iraklion too. Sundays, they're free.

Wifeybug

Sheila,

Thanks so much for your feedback and insights. It is always encouraging to exchange info with other vegetarians as well.
I look forward to the experience of doing some light shopping in the Greek markets. At the same time, I certainly hope that the vegetarian restaurant recommendations, as well as some very specific ordering will carry us through.

By the way, what did you mean by the Samaria Gorge getting dodgier towards the end of the month?

Also, do you (or does anyone else) know if there are hot springs that we can visit during our stay in Santorini? Let me know. Thanks much.

Wifeybug

Topping for Sheila...

sheila

The reason they close the gorge in winter is because at the Iron Gates you're wlking practically IN the watter. Now, in high summer, it's a non-issue. There's been no rain for months and it's a mere trickle. But in winter the water is high and fast and, frankly, dangerous. So, the later you go, the less chance there is of being allowed through.

Wifeybug

Toppin'