My proposed Andalucia/Madrid Itinerary
Apr 13th, 2016, 07:41 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
My proposed Andalucia/Madrid Itinerary
I feel a bit guilty asking another Andalucia itinerary question, as this issue comes up pretty frequently and I’ve read many of the various “takes” on how to divvy up one’s time. But I can’t resist the temptation to see if my own proposed itinerary looks okay.
The trip will likely be middle of next March (I like to plan well ahead). I realize the weather may not be ideal and we’ll have less daylight to work with, but that timing works out best for us. We have 13 nights on the ground to work with, from a Sunday arrival to a Saturday departure. Right now, these are my thoughts:
Arrive Madrid; AVE train to Seville, with five nights in Seville
Morning train to Cordoba for two nights
Morning bus to Granada for three nights
Train (hopefully the high speed AVE train will be running by then) to Madrid for three nights
The time I've allotted for each city is based on research on what we’d like to do and see in each place, knowing that we will not have enough time in any of the places to do everything we’d like. My husband is an avid photographer, so I bear that in mind when I consider how much ground we can cover in one day. While we like to visit all manner of sites, we also like to just aimlessly wander a fair amount. In fact, that’s really my favorite thing to do, so that's a factor for me as well. Oh, and food. We like to eat. Admittedly, though, this is the first trip we've taken where we've moved around this much. We usually prefer much longer stays in one place.
We have budgeted three nights in Granada to accommodate both a day and night visit to the Alhambra, knowing that we will not to do both tours the same day and our arrival day is a Sunday (no night visits). There are a number of other things in the city we’d like to see, but I do recognize that Granada hasn’t proven to be everyone’s cup of tea. I also know that many people just make a day trip to Cordoba, but again, I’ve identified several things we’d like to see there and I would also like to experience the city after day trippers leave. Finally, I’d note that we didn’t originally plan to spend anything other than one night in Madrid, but the more I read, the more I wanted to explore the city, even if just briefly. We added another day to the trip to help better accommodate that.
With respect to accommodations: I’m eyeing a well reviewed AirBNB apartment in the Triana neighborhood—on Calle Vasquez de Leca. We prefer to stay in neighborhoods that are a bit outside tourist central, so while I know many recommend Santa Cruz—and it does look lovely—I think Triana will suit our tastes. That said, if anyone has any reason to suspect that the specific location within Triana is undesirable, please let me know.
In Cordoba, I’ve eyeing the Palacio del Bailio. Booking.com has some decent rates for that property. My husband very much wants to stay in the El Albaicin area and Granada and I’m eyeing the Hotel Santa Isabel la Real. We’re both very active and the uphill climb from the city center doesn’t put us off. I think he'll be in photographic heaven. For Madrid, we’ll probably stay in the Huertas barrio. We were planning on just a hotel, but a Fodor’s member recently wrote about a group of apartments in the area that will accommodate three-night stays. I’d like to pursue that because we really do feel more relaxed in an apartment.
Thanks for everyone's input. I've read many older threads and want to commend the "Spain" regulars for the wealth of information they so frequently provide. Progol, if you're reading this, your trip report and pictures started the ball rolling on this trip; thank you ever so much for sharing. And maitaithom, I've read your blog entries from Spain several times through now. Kimhe, if you read this, I will be asking for specific suggestions as the trip approaches for flamenco suggestions. Ideally, I’d like to make time for two shows, with one in Sevilla for sure.
The trip will likely be middle of next March (I like to plan well ahead). I realize the weather may not be ideal and we’ll have less daylight to work with, but that timing works out best for us. We have 13 nights on the ground to work with, from a Sunday arrival to a Saturday departure. Right now, these are my thoughts:
Arrive Madrid; AVE train to Seville, with five nights in Seville
Morning train to Cordoba for two nights
Morning bus to Granada for three nights
Train (hopefully the high speed AVE train will be running by then) to Madrid for three nights
The time I've allotted for each city is based on research on what we’d like to do and see in each place, knowing that we will not have enough time in any of the places to do everything we’d like. My husband is an avid photographer, so I bear that in mind when I consider how much ground we can cover in one day. While we like to visit all manner of sites, we also like to just aimlessly wander a fair amount. In fact, that’s really my favorite thing to do, so that's a factor for me as well. Oh, and food. We like to eat. Admittedly, though, this is the first trip we've taken where we've moved around this much. We usually prefer much longer stays in one place.
We have budgeted three nights in Granada to accommodate both a day and night visit to the Alhambra, knowing that we will not to do both tours the same day and our arrival day is a Sunday (no night visits). There are a number of other things in the city we’d like to see, but I do recognize that Granada hasn’t proven to be everyone’s cup of tea. I also know that many people just make a day trip to Cordoba, but again, I’ve identified several things we’d like to see there and I would also like to experience the city after day trippers leave. Finally, I’d note that we didn’t originally plan to spend anything other than one night in Madrid, but the more I read, the more I wanted to explore the city, even if just briefly. We added another day to the trip to help better accommodate that.
With respect to accommodations: I’m eyeing a well reviewed AirBNB apartment in the Triana neighborhood—on Calle Vasquez de Leca. We prefer to stay in neighborhoods that are a bit outside tourist central, so while I know many recommend Santa Cruz—and it does look lovely—I think Triana will suit our tastes. That said, if anyone has any reason to suspect that the specific location within Triana is undesirable, please let me know.
In Cordoba, I’ve eyeing the Palacio del Bailio. Booking.com has some decent rates for that property. My husband very much wants to stay in the El Albaicin area and Granada and I’m eyeing the Hotel Santa Isabel la Real. We’re both very active and the uphill climb from the city center doesn’t put us off. I think he'll be in photographic heaven. For Madrid, we’ll probably stay in the Huertas barrio. We were planning on just a hotel, but a Fodor’s member recently wrote about a group of apartments in the area that will accommodate three-night stays. I’d like to pursue that because we really do feel more relaxed in an apartment.
Thanks for everyone's input. I've read many older threads and want to commend the "Spain" regulars for the wealth of information they so frequently provide. Progol, if you're reading this, your trip report and pictures started the ball rolling on this trip; thank you ever so much for sharing. And maitaithom, I've read your blog entries from Spain several times through now. Kimhe, if you read this, I will be asking for specific suggestions as the trip approaches for flamenco suggestions. Ideally, I’d like to make time for two shows, with one in Sevilla for sure.
Apr 13th, 2016, 09:15 AM
#2
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi indy,
We did much the same route last year, but in a different order. Your route to visit these cities is easily doable.
Just a thought about the sequence of the cities which you are visiting in Andalucia. The following of course are just our subjective impressions of the mood and feeling of each place:
Cordoba is sometimes regarded as a "ho hum" city apart from the spectacular mosque (now cathedral). But we had read a lot about the city in planning our trip and we decided to spend our first two nights there. We had never been to Spain before and Cordoba was, for us, a fine introduction. The town becomes quiet and slow in the evening and we liked that. Many old quarters. We enjoyed strolling the side streets in the evening and early morning. We stayed in the Hotel Viento 10 on the eastern side of the centro. This neighborhood is quite old but not as saturated with tourism as the area immediately surrounding the mosque.
If you visit Seville first and then Cordoba, you may be so dazzled by Seville that Cordoba will seem a very poor second cousin. It's just as easy to go from Madrid to Cordoba, then Granada, and then have a rousing ending in stupendously beautiful and fascinating Seville! Regarding staying in Triana: since you're going in March, the central Santa Cruz neighborhood should not be crowded with tourists. We stayed at the Hotel Amadeus in Santa Cruz in October and found it uncrowded and very convenient to be within a 10 or 15 minute walk to many sights and restaurants. Triana is across the river and will add more time to your walk to the centro and Triana has a sparser array of good restaurants and sights. FWIW.
Re Granada: we stayed in the Albaicin and found it very interesting. Our hotel was Shine Albaizin, on the edge of the neighborhood facing the river and the hill with the western tip of the Alhambra complex. Be sure to go up the Albaicin in the early evening to the San Nicolas Mirador and look out over the illuminated Alhambra opposite and the city below. Very beautiful.
Since you are planning well ahead of your trip you will have plenty of time to grasp fully the complex ticketing procedure for the Alhambra, night and day. This forum has a number of posts explaining it all. Buy your tickets well ahead of time (try 9 or 10 weeks ahead of time). Also, the entrance to the night tour is only through the Puerta de Justicia, on the western part of the walled complex. You cannot enter through the main (eastern) entrance for the night tour, at least you could not in 2015. Double check all of this and give yourselves plenty of time to get to the entrance before your timed entry listed on your ticket.
Having said all of that, both the night and the day tours are well worth it. We bought the night tour and also two tickets for each of us for the day tours, one for the morning and one for the afternoon, so we did not need to rush. We took our time, dawdled under palm trees, had a long lazy lunch in the courtyard of Hotel America (inside the palace grounds) and then continued the extensive walking over to the Generalife gardens and palace. The Alhambra complex is huge with many different sections. There are many recent questions and postings here and lots of different opinions about who likes what, night tour versus day tour versus doing everything, etc etc (sort of like "What's the best way to visit the Louvre?"), so you can read up on all of this and decide for yourselves in the next few months.
Here’s my trip report from last year:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...edo-madrid.cfm
Buen viaje!
We did much the same route last year, but in a different order. Your route to visit these cities is easily doable.
Just a thought about the sequence of the cities which you are visiting in Andalucia. The following of course are just our subjective impressions of the mood and feeling of each place:
Cordoba is sometimes regarded as a "ho hum" city apart from the spectacular mosque (now cathedral). But we had read a lot about the city in planning our trip and we decided to spend our first two nights there. We had never been to Spain before and Cordoba was, for us, a fine introduction. The town becomes quiet and slow in the evening and we liked that. Many old quarters. We enjoyed strolling the side streets in the evening and early morning. We stayed in the Hotel Viento 10 on the eastern side of the centro. This neighborhood is quite old but not as saturated with tourism as the area immediately surrounding the mosque.
If you visit Seville first and then Cordoba, you may be so dazzled by Seville that Cordoba will seem a very poor second cousin. It's just as easy to go from Madrid to Cordoba, then Granada, and then have a rousing ending in stupendously beautiful and fascinating Seville! Regarding staying in Triana: since you're going in March, the central Santa Cruz neighborhood should not be crowded with tourists. We stayed at the Hotel Amadeus in Santa Cruz in October and found it uncrowded and very convenient to be within a 10 or 15 minute walk to many sights and restaurants. Triana is across the river and will add more time to your walk to the centro and Triana has a sparser array of good restaurants and sights. FWIW.
Re Granada: we stayed in the Albaicin and found it very interesting. Our hotel was Shine Albaizin, on the edge of the neighborhood facing the river and the hill with the western tip of the Alhambra complex. Be sure to go up the Albaicin in the early evening to the San Nicolas Mirador and look out over the illuminated Alhambra opposite and the city below. Very beautiful.
Since you are planning well ahead of your trip you will have plenty of time to grasp fully the complex ticketing procedure for the Alhambra, night and day. This forum has a number of posts explaining it all. Buy your tickets well ahead of time (try 9 or 10 weeks ahead of time). Also, the entrance to the night tour is only through the Puerta de Justicia, on the western part of the walled complex. You cannot enter through the main (eastern) entrance for the night tour, at least you could not in 2015. Double check all of this and give yourselves plenty of time to get to the entrance before your timed entry listed on your ticket.
Having said all of that, both the night and the day tours are well worth it. We bought the night tour and also two tickets for each of us for the day tours, one for the morning and one for the afternoon, so we did not need to rush. We took our time, dawdled under palm trees, had a long lazy lunch in the courtyard of Hotel America (inside the palace grounds) and then continued the extensive walking over to the Generalife gardens and palace. The Alhambra complex is huge with many different sections. There are many recent questions and postings here and lots of different opinions about who likes what, night tour versus day tour versus doing everything, etc etc (sort of like "What's the best way to visit the Louvre?"), so you can read up on all of this and decide for yourselves in the next few months.
Here’s my trip report from last year:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...edo-madrid.cfm
Buen viaje!
Apr 13th, 2016, 09:42 AM
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
EWT, thank you for your input. I did consider switching Cordoba and Sevilla but opted to do it in this order because I didn't want to spend one of only two nights in Cordoba in a jet-lagged haze. I figured it might be easier to make up for that "lost time" with our longer stay in Sevilla. Also, since we're arriving on a Sunday, I was afraid of making our only other full day in Cordoba a Monday--when things often seem to be closed. But I do appreciate the possibility of a post-Sevilla let down. We're pretty easily pleased when we travel though, so I think it'll be okay.
Thanks, to for your thoughts about Triana. I'll give it some more consideration, as I'm admittedly torn. We got similar advice about Rome (in terms of staying someplace typically considered central) versus the neighborhood more in line with our slightly off center preference (Monti, if you're familiar with it). We went with Monti and are glad we did. But that was in mid-May and much more crowded. I will say that the Triana apartment is pretty close to the river, so the extra walk won't be too bad. We are very avid walkers/hikers so we don't shy away from that generally.
And, finally, thanks for the Alhambra trips. I think I may have read a thread you posted when you were trying to decide on whether to get two tickets for the day visit. Are you glad you took that approach? Do you think you would have felt rushed if you hadn't approached it that way? I'll be sure to read your trip report, too.
Thanks, to for your thoughts about Triana. I'll give it some more consideration, as I'm admittedly torn. We got similar advice about Rome (in terms of staying someplace typically considered central) versus the neighborhood more in line with our slightly off center preference (Monti, if you're familiar with it). We went with Monti and are glad we did. But that was in mid-May and much more crowded. I will say that the Triana apartment is pretty close to the river, so the extra walk won't be too bad. We are very avid walkers/hikers so we don't shy away from that generally.
And, finally, thanks for the Alhambra trips. I think I may have read a thread you posted when you were trying to decide on whether to get two tickets for the day visit. Are you glad you took that approach? Do you think you would have felt rushed if you hadn't approached it that way? I'll be sure to read your trip report, too.
Apr 13th, 2016, 09:44 AM
#4
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We stayed at the Hotel Santa Isabel la Real in Albaicin and really liked it. Well-furnished and even with an elevator. There's a city bus that goes up the hill and stops very close to the hotel.
I liked Granada a lot, better than Seville really. Seville is such a big city (population 700,000). My husband prefers Seville, as do most people I know. He's a sucker for streets lined with blooming orange trees.
We celebrated our anniversary with a couple nights at the parador in Granada. It's inside the Alhambra and includes the original grave site for Isabella and Ferdinand. Which non-guests can visit. The restaurants at the parador are very tranquil with views of the Generalife. Our one lunch at the Hotel America's internal patio was crowded and noisy.
Glad to see you're spending time in Cordoba. The Mezquita, with a church plumped down in the middle, is an amazing sight.
I liked Granada a lot, better than Seville really. Seville is such a big city (population 700,000). My husband prefers Seville, as do most people I know. He's a sucker for streets lined with blooming orange trees.
We celebrated our anniversary with a couple nights at the parador in Granada. It's inside the Alhambra and includes the original grave site for Isabella and Ferdinand. Which non-guests can visit. The restaurants at the parador are very tranquil with views of the Generalife. Our one lunch at the Hotel America's internal patio was crowded and noisy.
Glad to see you're spending time in Cordoba. The Mezquita, with a church plumped down in the middle, is an amazing sight.
Apr 13th, 2016, 10:32 AM
#5
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi again Indy,
Re our visits to the Alhambra: we did the night tour our first evening. We got there at the "starting gate" about 45 minutes ahead of time so we were the first to be processed and let into the Nasrid Palace. We hurried through the first room (this was greatly altered by Ferdinand and Isabella, used as a chapel if I'm remembering correctly, and not that compelling) and moved into the first of many stunning palace rooms. This meant that we were alone in each room and able to take photos without other people in the way (all those bothersome tourists! ...not that we're self-centered, hah!). All was quiet and beautiful.
Then we did the day visit the following day, with a morning ticket and an afternoon ticket. If I'm remembering these rules correctly (and double-check everything just in case they alter the rules a bit in 2017), if you have a morning ticket for the entire Alhambra complex you can enter the Nasrid Palace and the fortress part in the morning and as long as you pass the turnstile for the Generalife garden section *before* 2:00 pm, then you can stay in the Generalife until closing (but cannot backtrack to the Nasrid Palace).
So we started about 9:00 a.m. through the Puerta de Justicia. This is at the western end and since it looks like you will be staying in the Albaicin, and that you enjoy walking, you can walk easily down the Albaicin hill, across the Plaza Nueva, to the east side of the Plaza and walk up the Cuesta de Gomerez through the the stone archway and then take the path to the left (the pedestrian road forks just inside the archway), and walk up the very steep path to the Puerta de Justicia).
We chose not to visit the fort, spent a lot of time in the museum (it has many small beautiful household objects of the royal court plus some large things like huge palace doors with intricate woodwork). Then to the Nasrid Palace, slowwwwwwly. We found it just as magnificent in the day as in the evening, though of course the mood of the place was different. We exited the palace through some gardens and then walked to the Hotel America, just on the far side of these gardens (forget the name of the gardens). It was now about 1:30 p.m. We were ready to chill and recharge. Had a great lunch and some cold white wine and espresso. We were glad we did not have to wolf down a sandwich and then run to the Generalife checkpoint before the 2:00 p.m. deadline. The lunch patio of Hotel America has a homey, 1940s feeling and there were not many people there.
We eventually entered the checkpoint for the Generalife. It's about a 10 or 15 minute walk from this point to the Generalife gardens proper (I think this is right, you can check it out, there are lots of maps online). Then we spent about 1.5 hours in the Generalife. By this time we were totally "Alhambra'd out" and we went back to the hotel for a rest.
Imagine a Moorish version of all of Versailles--the main palace, all of the gardens, the Grand and Petit Trianon, maybe three miles of walking or more if you want to do the whole thing, plus a lot of sunshine. You know your stamina level and how you like to pace yourselves, so you can take it from there. We were happy to have spent so much time here; it truly is one of the most beautiful places we have been and in these times I think it provides a very welcome and necessary window onto a glorious, rich, productive chapter of Islamic history.
We did a lot of background reading about the Alhambra and you may want to dip into some of these works:
Steven Nightingale: Granada, a Pomegranate in the Hand of God -- I recommend this book since you will be staying in the Albaicin. It's the story of an American family who move to Granada, buy an old house in the Albaicin, restore it and come to know the people and history of this very special area. Sort of like an Albaicin version of "Under the Tuscan Sun" but better IMHO.
Elizabeth Nash: Seville, Cordoba, and Granada: A Cultural History
John Jaworski: A Mathematician's Guide to the Alhambra -- explains the mathematical formulas and operations involved in the design of the complex geometric tile work of the palace
Aurelio Cid Acedo: The Alhambra and Generalife in Focus (this is one of the official guidebooks available in the Alhambra bookstore; good to buy it from Amazon ahead of time)
Re our visits to the Alhambra: we did the night tour our first evening. We got there at the "starting gate" about 45 minutes ahead of time so we were the first to be processed and let into the Nasrid Palace. We hurried through the first room (this was greatly altered by Ferdinand and Isabella, used as a chapel if I'm remembering correctly, and not that compelling) and moved into the first of many stunning palace rooms. This meant that we were alone in each room and able to take photos without other people in the way (all those bothersome tourists! ...not that we're self-centered, hah!). All was quiet and beautiful.
Then we did the day visit the following day, with a morning ticket and an afternoon ticket. If I'm remembering these rules correctly (and double-check everything just in case they alter the rules a bit in 2017), if you have a morning ticket for the entire Alhambra complex you can enter the Nasrid Palace and the fortress part in the morning and as long as you pass the turnstile for the Generalife garden section *before* 2:00 pm, then you can stay in the Generalife until closing (but cannot backtrack to the Nasrid Palace).
So we started about 9:00 a.m. through the Puerta de Justicia. This is at the western end and since it looks like you will be staying in the Albaicin, and that you enjoy walking, you can walk easily down the Albaicin hill, across the Plaza Nueva, to the east side of the Plaza and walk up the Cuesta de Gomerez through the the stone archway and then take the path to the left (the pedestrian road forks just inside the archway), and walk up the very steep path to the Puerta de Justicia).
We chose not to visit the fort, spent a lot of time in the museum (it has many small beautiful household objects of the royal court plus some large things like huge palace doors with intricate woodwork). Then to the Nasrid Palace, slowwwwwwly. We found it just as magnificent in the day as in the evening, though of course the mood of the place was different. We exited the palace through some gardens and then walked to the Hotel America, just on the far side of these gardens (forget the name of the gardens). It was now about 1:30 p.m. We were ready to chill and recharge. Had a great lunch and some cold white wine and espresso. We were glad we did not have to wolf down a sandwich and then run to the Generalife checkpoint before the 2:00 p.m. deadline. The lunch patio of Hotel America has a homey, 1940s feeling and there were not many people there.
We eventually entered the checkpoint for the Generalife. It's about a 10 or 15 minute walk from this point to the Generalife gardens proper (I think this is right, you can check it out, there are lots of maps online). Then we spent about 1.5 hours in the Generalife. By this time we were totally "Alhambra'd out" and we went back to the hotel for a rest.
Imagine a Moorish version of all of Versailles--the main palace, all of the gardens, the Grand and Petit Trianon, maybe three miles of walking or more if you want to do the whole thing, plus a lot of sunshine. You know your stamina level and how you like to pace yourselves, so you can take it from there. We were happy to have spent so much time here; it truly is one of the most beautiful places we have been and in these times I think it provides a very welcome and necessary window onto a glorious, rich, productive chapter of Islamic history.
We did a lot of background reading about the Alhambra and you may want to dip into some of these works:
Steven Nightingale: Granada, a Pomegranate in the Hand of God -- I recommend this book since you will be staying in the Albaicin. It's the story of an American family who move to Granada, buy an old house in the Albaicin, restore it and come to know the people and history of this very special area. Sort of like an Albaicin version of "Under the Tuscan Sun" but better IMHO.
Elizabeth Nash: Seville, Cordoba, and Granada: A Cultural History
John Jaworski: A Mathematician's Guide to the Alhambra -- explains the mathematical formulas and operations involved in the design of the complex geometric tile work of the palace
Aurelio Cid Acedo: The Alhambra and Generalife in Focus (this is one of the official guidebooks available in the Alhambra bookstore; good to buy it from Amazon ahead of time)
Apr 13th, 2016, 11:14 AM
#6
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wow; thank you for that wealth of information. I was just about to ask you as I was scanning your post about your sources of information on the Alhambra (and Aldalucia in general) and you beat me to the punch. It's much appreciated.
You touched on something I was considering, which is doing the night visit before the day visit. The museum is not open on Mondays (and we have a Monday and a Tuesday for our Alhambra visits). So, like you, I was thinking of doing the night visit on Monday and the day visit on Tuesday to avoid having to go back up there to visit the museum. Did that work out okay for you. And if you want to just tell me to stop asking you questions and go read your trip report--that's fair!!!
I'll be sure to read it tonight.
Your "tactics" if you will are what we were already considering ourselves, although I don't know how crowded we can anticipate it being in mid-March.
I am so excited for this trip!
You touched on something I was considering, which is doing the night visit before the day visit. The museum is not open on Mondays (and we have a Monday and a Tuesday for our Alhambra visits). So, like you, I was thinking of doing the night visit on Monday and the day visit on Tuesday to avoid having to go back up there to visit the museum. Did that work out okay for you. And if you want to just tell me to stop asking you questions and go read your trip report--that's fair!!!
I'll be sure to read it tonight. Your "tactics" if you will are what we were already considering ourselves, although I don't know how crowded we can anticipate it being in mid-March.
I am so excited for this trip!
Apr 13th, 2016, 05:19 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mimar, did you have any problems with excessive noise in the neighborhood at the Santa Isabel? I see some mention of noise, especially coming from a nearby park.
EWB, what was the bed size in your suite at Shine? Booking.com says it's a double but it looks bigger than that. Also, the reviews mention a lack of privacy in the suites (because of the windows?) and excessive noise. Was that your experience?
EWB, what was the bed size in your suite at Shine? Booking.com says it's a double but it looks bigger than that. Also, the reviews mention a lack of privacy in the suites (because of the windows?) and excessive noise. Was that your experience?
Apr 13th, 2016, 05:48 PM
#8
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 747
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi Indy,
Not to worry about asking questions, that's what the forum is all about. If people don't want to answer, they won't. I could write a very long time about the Alhambra and Granada and Spain.
Re night visit to Alhambra: yes, I liked visiting the Nasrid Palace at night (that's the only part of the entire complex which is open for the night visit by the way), and then visiting the entire complex the following day.
Re crowds: I think there probably will not be huge crowds in March. That's just before late spring/early summer. Others on the forum might contribute on this.
Re background info: we used the Rough Guide to Spain for a general guide book, very good on details, history, the sights, and the society.
Re Shine Albaicin: we paid just a little more for the suite at the top (I think the 3rd or 4th floor, elevator right up to the suite. Very spacious room, big bathroom, huge picture windows looking smack out at the fortifications of the western part of the Alhambra. It has good curtains for privacy or for sleeping in the evening.
The bed I would say is a queen size bed, certainly not a double. There are a sofa and side tables facing out to the picture window so you can sit in the morning or afternoon or evening with the illuminated fortress just across from the Albaicin...very nice. (You are looking across the Darro river, which is covered over just beyond this hotel; the Plaza Nueva is built over the Darro river.)
Noise: we had no problem with noise whatsoever. Around midnight or early morning there might be groups of people returning from celebrating something or other from the centro, laughing and singing. We saw a little of this when we were returning around 10 or 11 pm to the hotel but once we got ensconced in our suite at the top, all was fine and tranquil.
Ask more questions if you want to! You will have a great trip to Granada, for sure.
Not to worry about asking questions, that's what the forum is all about. If people don't want to answer, they won't. I could write a very long time about the Alhambra and Granada and Spain.
Re night visit to Alhambra: yes, I liked visiting the Nasrid Palace at night (that's the only part of the entire complex which is open for the night visit by the way), and then visiting the entire complex the following day.
Re crowds: I think there probably will not be huge crowds in March. That's just before late spring/early summer. Others on the forum might contribute on this.
Re background info: we used the Rough Guide to Spain for a general guide book, very good on details, history, the sights, and the society.
Re Shine Albaicin: we paid just a little more for the suite at the top (I think the 3rd or 4th floor, elevator right up to the suite. Very spacious room, big bathroom, huge picture windows looking smack out at the fortifications of the western part of the Alhambra. It has good curtains for privacy or for sleeping in the evening.
The bed I would say is a queen size bed, certainly not a double. There are a sofa and side tables facing out to the picture window so you can sit in the morning or afternoon or evening with the illuminated fortress just across from the Albaicin...very nice. (You are looking across the Darro river, which is covered over just beyond this hotel; the Plaza Nueva is built over the Darro river.)
Noise: we had no problem with noise whatsoever. Around midnight or early morning there might be groups of people returning from celebrating something or other from the centro, laughing and singing. We saw a little of this when we were returning around 10 or 11 pm to the hotel but once we got ensconced in our suite at the top, all was fine and tranquil.
Ask more questions if you want to! You will have a great trip to Granada, for sure.
Apr 13th, 2016, 06:07 PM
#9
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you yet again. I did start reading your trip report before going down the hotel rabbit hole!! When I got to the part about the train ticket SNAFU, I realized I'd read it at least once before. Certainly a memorable part of the trip! It's a wonderful report. I also ordered one of the books you suggested (and will probably look at them all). Did any read anything specific to Sevilla or about Andalucia as a whole?
Apr 13th, 2016, 06:17 PM
#10
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I like your plan a LOT! I am among those who thought Cordoba easily worth 2 full days and Granada worth 3 full days.
I was very pleased with my decision to make my evening visit to the Nasrid Palace AFTER my day-time visit because it meant that I had a better idea of what I was seeing. I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker, though, if other arrangements make more sense. When I was there, they hadn't yet begun evening visits to the Generalife. Now that they have, I would visit the Generalife one night, the grounds the next day, and the Nasrid Palace that evening. BUT I'm not sure the evening option for the Generalife is available in March?
Should be a great trip!
I was very pleased with my decision to make my evening visit to the Nasrid Palace AFTER my day-time visit because it meant that I had a better idea of what I was seeing. I wouldn't consider it a deal-breaker, though, if other arrangements make more sense. When I was there, they hadn't yet begun evening visits to the Generalife. Now that they have, I would visit the Generalife one night, the grounds the next day, and the Nasrid Palace that evening. BUT I'm not sure the evening option for the Generalife is available in March?
Should be a great trip!
Apr 14th, 2016, 03:05 AM
#12
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Very good idea to stay in the lovely, vibrant and local atmosphere Triana district in Sevilla. And Calle Vasquez de Leca is as good as it gets, tranquile yet right in the middle of everything: http://uncoveringandalucia.elboquero...riana-seville/
http://www.andalucia.com/cities/seville/triana.htm
Lots of great restaurants, tapas bars and open air cafes around. Here are some suggestions from Azahar who lives here and knows what she's talking about: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...urants/triana/
A video intro to tapas in Triana: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mFE9k0E-2Y
The second place they visit in the video is the Sevilla classic Las Galondrinas: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...s-golondrinas/
http://www.andalucia.com/cities/seville/triana.htm
Lots of great restaurants, tapas bars and open air cafes around. Here are some suggestions from Azahar who lives here and knows what she's talking about: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...urants/triana/
A video intro to tapas in Triana: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7mFE9k0E-2Y
The second place they visit in the video is the Sevilla classic Las Galondrinas: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...s-golondrinas/
Apr 14th, 2016, 04:33 AM
#13
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Triana is a cradle of flamenco culture, and you'll stay quite close to the cutting edge Flamenqueria center by the Guadalquivir river (Calle Castilla, 94). Top of the shelf artists perform here every Thursday, Friday and Saturday nights, and most Wednesdays young promises go on stage. No drinks, no food, just flamenco in an intimate setting: http://www.flamenqueria.es/es/
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attracti...Andalucia.html
Flamenco bars in Triana: http://www.sevillaflamenco.com/sevil...l#.Vw-K6odf2M8
And you'll stay some 200 meters from one of my favourite tapas bars in town, typical and no fuss La Primera del Puente by the river: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...ra-del-puente/
https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attracti...Andalucia.html
Flamenco bars in Triana: http://www.sevillaflamenco.com/sevil...l#.Vw-K6odf2M8
And you'll stay some 200 meters from one of my favourite tapas bars in town, typical and no fuss La Primera del Puente by the river: http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletap...ra-del-puente/
Apr 14th, 2016, 05:04 AM
#14
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for chiming in, Kimhe, especially with respect to Triana. My husband and I talked again about it last night and had already decided that we were up for whatever extra walking a stay there entailed, although I certainly understand suggestions to stay instead in Santa Cruz. We will likely schedule a tapas tour with Azahar, as we really love learning about a city's food culture and history.
Thank you for the flamenco suggestion, too. You are always such a wealth of information on the subject. You identified exactly what we want--a no frills, intimate show. If you have a similar recommendation for Grananda or Cordoba, I'd appreciate it. We unfortunately will not be in Granada on a Thursday, so we won't be able to attend a show at Peña La Platería. We'll be in Cordoba on Friday and Saturday nights; Grananda Sunday through Tuesday night, with either Monday or Tuesday night reserved for the Alhambra if that helps).
Thank you for the flamenco suggestion, too. You are always such a wealth of information on the subject. You identified exactly what we want--a no frills, intimate show. If you have a similar recommendation for Grananda or Cordoba, I'd appreciate it. We unfortunately will not be in Granada on a Thursday, so we won't be able to attend a show at Peña La Platería. We'll be in Cordoba on Friday and Saturday nights; Grananda Sunday through Tuesday night, with either Monday or Tuesday night reserved for the Alhambra if that helps).
Apr 14th, 2016, 06:19 AM
#15
Indy, you can't do go wrong with maitaitom and EYWandBTV's trip reports, and advice from kimhe.
We were in Madrid, Cordoba, and Granada last fall, and had a fabulous time. Like you we thought we were moving around a bit too much, but there is so much to see on a first visit. We were one click away from extending our trip by a week on our last day, but then thought better of it, too many other moving parts that would need to change.
I'll chime in with a few things:
A highlight of our trip was an exhilarating flamenco performance at Arte y Sabores de Cordoba.
We bought tickets in advance and got front row seats, though can't be sure whether advance purchase mattered for that. It's an intimate venue in any case.
http://www.flamencotickets.com/arte-...res-de-cordoba
The Cordoba Mezquita is open for free from 8:30-9:30 AM, I think every day, but you might check that. It's a lot less crowded then, no big tour groups. It's not enough time to enjoy the entire building, but it's worth a second visit to return to some favorite places. There is also a night visit but we decided against that, I think you have to move with the group as they light up different sections. But it could be worthwhile.
http://www.elcorteingles.es/entradas...00535201100125
The equestrian show in Cordoba was fun, if that has interest for you:
http://english.turismodecordoba.org/...questrian-show
There are two pedestrian paths from Granada town to the Alhambra: the main path through the Gate of the Pomegranates, and the smaller Cuesta del Rey Chico. Both are worthwhile from a photographer's standpoint. We also visited the Alhambra multiple times (three!), saving the night palace for last because that's how our timing worked out. We were pleased with how that all worked out.
Another nod to restaurant Aben Humeya, mentioned in maitaitom's report, delicious meal looking up at the Alhambra.
I have some photos of the usual suspects here:
http://nelsonchenkin.zenfolio.com/spain
Have fun planning a great trip!
We were in Madrid, Cordoba, and Granada last fall, and had a fabulous time. Like you we thought we were moving around a bit too much, but there is so much to see on a first visit. We were one click away from extending our trip by a week on our last day, but then thought better of it, too many other moving parts that would need to change.
I'll chime in with a few things:
A highlight of our trip was an exhilarating flamenco performance at Arte y Sabores de Cordoba.
We bought tickets in advance and got front row seats, though can't be sure whether advance purchase mattered for that. It's an intimate venue in any case.
http://www.flamencotickets.com/arte-...res-de-cordoba
The Cordoba Mezquita is open for free from 8:30-9:30 AM, I think every day, but you might check that. It's a lot less crowded then, no big tour groups. It's not enough time to enjoy the entire building, but it's worth a second visit to return to some favorite places. There is also a night visit but we decided against that, I think you have to move with the group as they light up different sections. But it could be worthwhile.
http://www.elcorteingles.es/entradas...00535201100125
The equestrian show in Cordoba was fun, if that has interest for you:
http://english.turismodecordoba.org/...questrian-show
There are two pedestrian paths from Granada town to the Alhambra: the main path through the Gate of the Pomegranates, and the smaller Cuesta del Rey Chico. Both are worthwhile from a photographer's standpoint. We also visited the Alhambra multiple times (three!), saving the night palace for last because that's how our timing worked out. We were pleased with how that all worked out.
Another nod to restaurant Aben Humeya, mentioned in maitaitom's report, delicious meal looking up at the Alhambra.
I have some photos of the usual suspects here:
http://nelsonchenkin.zenfolio.com/spain
Have fun planning a great trip!
Apr 14th, 2016, 06:34 AM
#16
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 7,160
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Re: the Hotel Santa Isabel le Real, it wasn't noisy at all. Or maybe we slept too well to hear noise. I can't remember any park nearby. I want to add the hotel was nicely furnished and our room had a modern, newish bathroom. All in an old house built around an interior courtyard.
Apr 14th, 2016, 07:22 AM
#17
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for your suggestions, Nelson. Your photographs are wonderful. I'll have to peruse them when I have a bit more time. My husband will certainly appreciate the photog suggestions.
That's reassuring about the noise at the Hotel Santa Isabel La Real, Mimar. I doubt noise from the park is big of a potential issue in March as it would be later in the spring or summer. The walk to/from the hotel is still in the back of my mind, but the mini-bus seems convenient enough.
That's reassuring about the noise at the Hotel Santa Isabel La Real, Mimar. I doubt noise from the park is big of a potential issue in March as it would be later in the spring or summer. The walk to/from the hotel is still in the back of my mind, but the mini-bus seems convenient enough.
Apr 14th, 2016, 07:41 AM
#18
Here is my Spain report from last year. We stayed in two great apartments from Spain Select in Sevilla and Madrid, plus we loved our place in Granada (rooftop with incredible views of Alhambra). Below is my report with photos. Sounds like a great trip. Have fun!
http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/spain-2015/
http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/spain-2015/
Apr 14th, 2016, 07:57 AM
#19
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the link, maitaitom. I've actually read your all of your blog entries from Spain several times over already! They're really wonderful, and it appears that you had a fantastic trip. I appreciate you sharing it here.
