My favourite things in Oxford
Mar 26th, 2014, 05:52 PM
#41
I only saw the first post and thought, "Creepy." I don't imagine his identity was revealed and I certainly hope it hasn't put him off Fodor's. I do think that even starting the thread was an invasion of privacy.
Mar 26th, 2014, 06:38 PM
#42
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I also saw and remember that thread and remember being taken aback by the crudeness of it. Glad to hear it was pulled.
I, too, am of the mind that something like that would not keep Flanner away. Them's be made of stronger stuff, no question. Hope all's well, wherever they are.
I, too, am of the mind that something like that would not keep Flanner away. Them's be made of stronger stuff, no question. Hope all's well, wherever they are.
Mar 26th, 2014, 07:32 PM
#43
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kovsie, I enjoyed your "special moments". You are obviously someone who savors those special moments which makes your travel experience so much richer. It's certainly a contrast to those who rush around checking off the sites on their must see/do list which was probably suggested by someone else. 
The White Horse was my favorite pub too. Did you happen to get to the 3rd floor (used books) at Blackwell's ? A good place to pick up bargains.
The White Horse was my favorite pub too. Did you happen to get to the 3rd floor (used books) at Blackwell's ? A good place to pick up bargains.
Mar 26th, 2014, 08:32 PM
#44
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No historytraveler, I did not get to Blackwell's 3rd floor, I am sorry to say. Only heard about it when it was too late. One more reason to return one day!
I believe it is those single moments that we all remember when we are back home. What floored me was when a colleague said: your London TR is sooo wonderful, I am going to London and do it exactly as you did it. My response: you will be bored stiff.
LatedayT -- I also went to lewis's home 'the Kilns' and still have to write about it. I am definitely going to look for McGrath's book - thanks for mentioning it.
I believe it is those single moments that we all remember when we are back home. What floored me was when a colleague said: your London TR is sooo wonderful, I am going to London and do it exactly as you did it. My response: you will be bored stiff.
LatedayT -- I also went to lewis's home 'the Kilns' and still have to write about it. I am definitely going to look for McGrath's book - thanks for mentioning it.
Mar 26th, 2014, 09:48 PM
#46
I honestly can't go inside Blackwell's! Once I walk through the doors I'm a goner for the day 
(>>Funny to imagine you could know more about flanner, or anyone, by knowing his name or what he looks like than you could by reading what he has to say. <<
flanner did make it to one of our London GTGs . . . )
(>>Funny to imagine you could know more about flanner, or anyone, by knowing his name or what he looks like than you could by reading what he has to say. <<
flanner did make it to one of our London GTGs . . . )
Mar 28th, 2014, 06:28 AM
#47
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VISITING THE COLLEGES
One of the treats of Oxford in the afternoon, is the opportunity to see a bit more of some of the colleges. At some colleges admittance is free (All Souls is an example). Some charge a fee (£3-£5). Most are open from 2pm. In some you can spend hours (Christ Church is a great example, as is Magdalen); in some an hour is more than enough (Exeter and Balliol).
But admittance is never guaranteed. I particularly wanted to visit Merton College, where Tolkien worked for many years. It was not to be. The last late afternoon when I enter the porter's lodge, I am kindly informed that the college is closed for three days 'for its own business'. I am so disappointed. "Could I just have a quick look through the entrance gate?" I beg. "No, not possible" said the porter ... not the first time he had to send a slightly sour tourist on her way. If ever I get to Oxford again, I will not save a 'must-see' college for later ... when it is open GO IN!
A college that I particularly enjoyed was Exeter (founded in 1314) where Tolkien started out as 19-year old student. It is nicely central, and you can go here just for its terrace and the lovely view of Radcliffe Square.
My DD likes to attend evensong in these old churches. I did not have the time, but she went more than once to the cathedral of Christ Church, and enjoyed it.
One of the treats of Oxford in the afternoon, is the opportunity to see a bit more of some of the colleges. At some colleges admittance is free (All Souls is an example). Some charge a fee (£3-£5). Most are open from 2pm. In some you can spend hours (Christ Church is a great example, as is Magdalen); in some an hour is more than enough (Exeter and Balliol).
But admittance is never guaranteed. I particularly wanted to visit Merton College, where Tolkien worked for many years. It was not to be. The last late afternoon when I enter the porter's lodge, I am kindly informed that the college is closed for three days 'for its own business'. I am so disappointed. "Could I just have a quick look through the entrance gate?" I beg. "No, not possible" said the porter ... not the first time he had to send a slightly sour tourist on her way. If ever I get to Oxford again, I will not save a 'must-see' college for later ... when it is open GO IN!
A college that I particularly enjoyed was Exeter (founded in 1314) where Tolkien started out as 19-year old student. It is nicely central, and you can go here just for its terrace and the lovely view of Radcliffe Square.
My DD likes to attend evensong in these old churches. I did not have the time, but she went more than once to the cathedral of Christ Church, and enjoyed it.
Mar 29th, 2014, 02:30 AM
#48
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What to do with the very last morning in Oxford? Initially, I plan another walk (as suggested by PanenQ and BilboB) along Port Meadow to The Trout Inn, but as the week progresses, we must bow to the fact that we do not have good walking weather. In addition, the lady at Tourist Info says that this path may still be very wet after the rains and flooding 
THE KILNS
We decide to go instead to CS Lewis's beloved home The Kilns in Risinghurst. Lewis spent many years at Magdalen College, but later bought this house that he shared at first with his brother. In his 60s he married Joy, and eventually she and her two sons came to live here (this story has twists and turns that I will not try to tell).
To visit the house, you make an appointment with the CS Lewis Foundation at
http://www.cslewis.org/ourprograms/thekilns/
Admission £10.
We catch a No.9 bus from Queens Street, the ride takes +-25 minutes. For me this visit is a bit of a disappointment. I frankly confess that my expectations had been coloured by movies and my own imagination. The thing is: after Lewis's death everything - including all his books and furniture (to the very last wardrobe!) had been sold. The house stood empty, deteriorated. It was then bought by an American, who created the CS Lewis Foundation and started a heroic reconstruction effort. They did try to restore the house to as near its original being as possible. They dug up layers of concrete to get to the original floors, and furnished it with period furniture. So when you go, know that the physical structure is probably as near to Lewis's reality as people could get it, but that little in the house would be familiar to him.
Secondly, the tour group in which we landed was larger that I expected. The idea of making a personal appointment had me thinking that it would be more of a personal experience. But when we arrive, the tour had already started and we join perhaps 20 other people ... the rooms are rather small and things get a bit crowded. The tour guide is a sweet young american who does his best to be entertaining. I last until he offers Turkish Delight and makes up a story about the White Witch who had left it but Aslan had breathed over it... Just not my 'thing'. I slip out quietly, and find the nature reserve next to the house, where Lewis often went for walks. The pond is fairly small, there are quite a few other people as well, but it is nice to be there under the trees for a while. DD finds me, she had also not lasted the whole length of the tour.
In retrospect it is nice to know that so many people are interested in Lewis and his work. If time in Oxford is limited, I would much rather go to Magdalen College.
THE KILNS
We decide to go instead to CS Lewis's beloved home The Kilns in Risinghurst. Lewis spent many years at Magdalen College, but later bought this house that he shared at first with his brother. In his 60s he married Joy, and eventually she and her two sons came to live here (this story has twists and turns that I will not try to tell).
To visit the house, you make an appointment with the CS Lewis Foundation at
http://www.cslewis.org/ourprograms/thekilns/
Admission £10.
We catch a No.9 bus from Queens Street, the ride takes +-25 minutes. For me this visit is a bit of a disappointment. I frankly confess that my expectations had been coloured by movies and my own imagination. The thing is: after Lewis's death everything - including all his books and furniture (to the very last wardrobe!) had been sold. The house stood empty, deteriorated. It was then bought by an American, who created the CS Lewis Foundation and started a heroic reconstruction effort. They did try to restore the house to as near its original being as possible. They dug up layers of concrete to get to the original floors, and furnished it with period furniture. So when you go, know that the physical structure is probably as near to Lewis's reality as people could get it, but that little in the house would be familiar to him.
Secondly, the tour group in which we landed was larger that I expected. The idea of making a personal appointment had me thinking that it would be more of a personal experience. But when we arrive, the tour had already started and we join perhaps 20 other people ... the rooms are rather small and things get a bit crowded. The tour guide is a sweet young american who does his best to be entertaining. I last until he offers Turkish Delight and makes up a story about the White Witch who had left it but Aslan had breathed over it... Just not my 'thing'. I slip out quietly, and find the nature reserve next to the house, where Lewis often went for walks. The pond is fairly small, there are quite a few other people as well, but it is nice to be there under the trees for a while. DD finds me, she had also not lasted the whole length of the tour.
In retrospect it is nice to know that so many people are interested in Lewis and his work. If time in Oxford is limited, I would much rather go to Magdalen College.
Mar 29th, 2014, 04:10 AM
#49
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ASHMOLEAN
Three hours left in Oxford! It is cold and raining more seriously now. I have not yet had time for the Ashmolean, so decide to drop in there. I contemplate the special exhibition of Cezanne et al. But it is lunchtime, and the place is packed. I give it a miss, and instead go to the quiet, smallish section of Middle Eastern art. Since coming to Dubai, I have developed quite a liking for these (to me) unfamiliar art forms. In the west we made things that are beautiful to look at: a painting, a statue. In the Middle East they make beautiful things to use: a door, a carpet, a jug. The Ashmolean has a few nice examples of an arabesque - good to see!
Then for the last time I walk up beautiful Broad street, find a lucky seat in the White Horse, and spend my last hour there. When I leave, I lift a hand to greet the imaginary Strider in the back corner ... and hum to myself:
... the road goes ever on and on
down from the door where it began
now far ahead the road has gone
and I must follow if I can...
Three hours left in Oxford! It is cold and raining more seriously now. I have not yet had time for the Ashmolean, so decide to drop in there. I contemplate the special exhibition of Cezanne et al. But it is lunchtime, and the place is packed. I give it a miss, and instead go to the quiet, smallish section of Middle Eastern art. Since coming to Dubai, I have developed quite a liking for these (to me) unfamiliar art forms. In the west we made things that are beautiful to look at: a painting, a statue. In the Middle East they make beautiful things to use: a door, a carpet, a jug. The Ashmolean has a few nice examples of an arabesque - good to see!
Then for the last time I walk up beautiful Broad street, find a lucky seat in the White Horse, and spend my last hour there. When I leave, I lift a hand to greet the imaginary Strider in the back corner ... and hum to myself:
... the road goes ever on and on
down from the door where it began
now far ahead the road has gone
and I must follow if I can...
Mar 29th, 2014, 04:41 AM
#50
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Kosvie, thank you for such informative descriptions of the KILNS and the ASHMOLEAN MUSEUM. I can understand your disappointment with the C.S. Lewis’s abode, stripped as it was on his furnishing and belongings. And I also do not appreciate “corny” descriptions when viewing these historic sites.
Lovely ending with the quotation…
Lovely ending with the quotation…
Mar 29th, 2014, 08:38 AM
#53
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The Bodleian is one of a list of things I did not get to do annw. A week - while also working - is just not enough. BUT it is still a privilege. Tonight we watched an episode of Brideshead, and squealed with delight each time another (now) familiar landmark came up!
Thanks for kind comments LatedayT and Fra_D, I enjoyed writing it.
Thanks for kind comments LatedayT and Fra_D, I enjoyed writing it.
Mar 29th, 2014, 08:54 AM
#54
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When we visited Oxford a year ago my daughter and I ended up frittering away too much time at the Ashmolean. It was excellent, but not at the expense of walking more around town or climbing the tower.
