My favourite things in Oxford
Mar 23rd, 2014, 08:53 AM
#21
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It's nice to dawdle. I'm working on it.
. Kovsie, you're right, churches called St. Mary's are especially numerous in this area. The one in Oxford centre is known as the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin. I believe its tower is late 13th or early 14th century. St. Mary's Iffley is 12th century and represents the period known as High Romanesque but in England is commonly referred to as Late Norman.
As you discovered, Oxford has a number of small streets making it a fun place to explore. I'm afraid most tourists miss out on this.
. Kovsie, you're right, churches called St. Mary's are especially numerous in this area. The one in Oxford centre is known as the University Church of St. Mary the Virgin. I believe its tower is late 13th or early 14th century. St. Mary's Iffley is 12th century and represents the period known as High Romanesque but in England is commonly referred to as Late Norman. As you discovered, Oxford has a number of small streets making it a fun place to explore. I'm afraid most tourists miss out on this.
Mar 23rd, 2014, 08:58 AM
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not your typical trip report and a wonderful one - just to add that today's NYtimes Travel Section has a detailed article on Oxford:
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/23/tr...ford.html?_r=1
http://www.nytimes.com/2014/03/23/tr...ford.html?_r=1
Mar 23rd, 2014, 07:55 PM
#23
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Thanks for more info on the dates historytraveler! I loved the church in Iffley, but did not care much for the one in city centre. Maybe it was just the fact that at least three tour groups were being entertained by guides striving to be both informative and witty in the university's official church.
To climb the tower of the University Church of St Mary ... costs £4. Do not attempt if you have mobility issues or if you do not like narrow confined spaces. The view is said to be spectacular. For an excellent description, see PalenQ's link above.
To climb the tower of the University Church of St Mary ... costs £4. Do not attempt if you have mobility issues or if you do not like narrow confined spaces. The view is said to be spectacular. For an excellent description, see PalenQ's link above.
Mar 23rd, 2014, 08:00 PM
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DAY 2 - SUNDAY
The highlight of today is our visit to Magdalen College where CS Lewis worked for so many years. Just keep on walking up High Street until you find Magdalen. It opens from 2pm until 6pm or dusk (whichever comes first). Entrance £3. This college was started outside the old city wall in 1458 (!). My favourite part of the buildings is the Cloisters. I am struggling to describe the feeling of walking right into a previous age, the stone passages echoing slightly, the arches open to the green lawn in the centre, the simplicity striking. Behind a door a choir practice is going on - young voices singing a cappella. Oh my!
Leaving the Cloisters, you see the New Building (started in the 18th century). This is where CS Lewis had his rooms.
Outside the new building is the most beautiful old tree, surrounded by a carpet of small blue flowers (not bluebells as I hoped, but still pretty). This tree was planted in 1666, and moved to Magdalen in 1801. DD sighs theatrically, throws up her arms and enquires: "Who the heck transplants a 200 year old tree??" Her math is out, but the question remains valid. The tree must have liked its new location, because it is still growing dignified and strong. And I think: when Lewis walked these grounds, he would have seen the same gnarled branches. Just maybe this is the picture that Tolkien had in mind when he created the Ents.
From the New Building we enter Addison's Walk, and follow it all the way around. Walking where two of my literary heroes walked and argued is a good experience. No purple and white flowers (sorry about that dear Fodorites), just daffodils and green grass and white blossoms. There is one moment when I sit on a stump, a profusion of white blossoms reflected in the river, the sun shining on the water ... very Narnia.
The highlight of today is our visit to Magdalen College where CS Lewis worked for so many years. Just keep on walking up High Street until you find Magdalen. It opens from 2pm until 6pm or dusk (whichever comes first). Entrance £3. This college was started outside the old city wall in 1458 (!). My favourite part of the buildings is the Cloisters. I am struggling to describe the feeling of walking right into a previous age, the stone passages echoing slightly, the arches open to the green lawn in the centre, the simplicity striking. Behind a door a choir practice is going on - young voices singing a cappella. Oh my!
Leaving the Cloisters, you see the New Building (started in the 18th century). This is where CS Lewis had his rooms.
Outside the new building is the most beautiful old tree, surrounded by a carpet of small blue flowers (not bluebells as I hoped, but still pretty). This tree was planted in 1666, and moved to Magdalen in 1801. DD sighs theatrically, throws up her arms and enquires: "Who the heck transplants a 200 year old tree??" Her math is out, but the question remains valid. The tree must have liked its new location, because it is still growing dignified and strong. And I think: when Lewis walked these grounds, he would have seen the same gnarled branches. Just maybe this is the picture that Tolkien had in mind when he created the Ents.
From the New Building we enter Addison's Walk, and follow it all the way around. Walking where two of my literary heroes walked and argued is a good experience. No purple and white flowers (sorry about that dear Fodorites), just daffodils and green grass and white blossoms. There is one moment when I sit on a stump, a profusion of white blossoms reflected in the river, the sun shining on the water ... very Narnia.
Mar 24th, 2014, 04:58 PM
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Hi Bilbo! I thought of you when I left Magdalen having seen neither fawns nor fauns! The deer were not in the meadow that you see from Addisons, and I did not have time (or energy) to walk the other way to where they probably were.
'Addisons a sure cure for a hangover': I presume you speak from personal experience
'Too early for blue bells and the purple and white': yes, I was sorry about that. I wondered if the terrible rain and flooding that you had, had anything to do with it. From my other thread I rather thought I would see more flowers. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-oxford.cfm
'Addisons a sure cure for a hangover': I presume you speak from personal experience
'Too early for blue bells and the purple and white': yes, I was sorry about that. I wondered if the terrible rain and flooding that you had, had anything to do with it. From my other thread I rather thought I would see more flowers. http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-in-oxford.cfm
Mar 25th, 2014, 05:18 AM
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Hi Kovsie, still enjoying your report very much. However I'm sorry and puzzled that you didn't see too many flowers. Perhaps they were just not in the area you were in ?
Throughout March and even just today (Mar 25th) friends and fam in England have been posting beautiful pics of the Spring flowers on FB. Everything from garden varieties to larger shrubs and parklands. Again, sorry that you didn't see more as it's a real treat and sight to behold. However, it is another reason to return to England again.
If work wasn't keeping me so busy I'd be making plans for another visit as you so rightly suggest. The aunt I spoke of has a special birthday later this year so maybe a quick celebratory visit in the Fall might be in order.
Throughout March and even just today (Mar 25th) friends and fam in England have been posting beautiful pics of the Spring flowers on FB. Everything from garden varieties to larger shrubs and parklands. Again, sorry that you didn't see more as it's a real treat and sight to behold. However, it is another reason to return to England again.
If work wasn't keeping me so busy I'd be making plans for another visit as you so rightly suggest. The aunt I spoke of has a special birthday later this year so maybe a quick celebratory visit in the Fall might be in order.
Mar 25th, 2014, 11:20 AM
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Hi Kosvie,
Just love your descriptions and your ability to linger and savor your literary surroundings so carefully. If I recall, CS Lewis ended his career teaching at Cambridge. The Oxford crowd was resentful of his many commercial successes. Oh, well.
Look forward to reading more…
Just love your descriptions and your ability to linger and savor your literary surroundings so carefully. If I recall, CS Lewis ended his career teaching at Cambridge. The Oxford crowd was resentful of his many commercial successes. Oh, well.
Look forward to reading more…
Mar 26th, 2014, 05:08 AM
#30
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Mathieu! Quite possibly I did not look in the right places - I had the river walk, Magdalen College with Addison's, a few college gardens, and suburban gardens in Summertown near our guest house. I also took a long walk in the nature reserve near CS Lewis's house. Unfortunately I did not have time for the Botanical Gardens. In the college gardens I could see that the wisteria would be glorious in a few more weeks ... the twisted branches (some up to 2ft or even thicker), were beautiful against the weathered walls. I can just imagine what it will look like when it is in full bloom. I LOVED the daffodils and green green grass and white blossoms.
I always joke that I am pork deprived here in Dubai. But I have realised that I am a bit colour-deprived and nature-deprived as well. Don't get me wrong - Dubai is a unique and stimulating place to live and work in. But never in my life will I see a daffodil again without thinking of this week in Oxford!
LatedayT -- I have wondered about this itch in me to try follow in favourite authors' footsteps. In the end it is their books that speak for them. But yes, it is still a privilege to see Tolkein's college or Lewis's house, even to walk down Baker Street!
I always joke that I am pork deprived here in Dubai. But I have realised that I am a bit colour-deprived and nature-deprived as well. Don't get me wrong - Dubai is a unique and stimulating place to live and work in. But never in my life will I see a daffodil again without thinking of this week in Oxford!
LatedayT -- I have wondered about this itch in me to try follow in favourite authors' footsteps. In the end it is their books that speak for them. But yes, it is still a privilege to see Tolkein's college or Lewis's house, even to walk down Baker Street!
Mar 26th, 2014, 05:12 AM
#31
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DAYS 3 - 7
During these days I have to focus on my reason for coming to Oxford at all: WORK. We meet in Harris-Manchester College, and for a few days I have free access to an Oxford college. Manchester is a 'new' college from the 19th century.
The walk there every morning gives me joy: the bus stops next to St Mary Magdalen Church with its graveyard with sunken grey stones and daffodils, bicycles chained to the fence. Then the walk down Broad Street, past the History of Science Museum and the Bodleian, catching a glimpse of the Bridge of Sighs, spend a moment at the windows of Blackwell's (the bookshop of your dreams), carry on in Holywell Street past the New College, turn right into Mansfield Road and there you are!
I grab in-between moments to see a little more of Oxford. During lunchtimes I wander down Holywell to the old city wall, or pop into Blackwell's for a while.
At the corner of Holywell and Mansfield is a (currently) white house with blue window frames. This is where CS Lewis spent his first night in Oxford. He describes how he asked a hansom to take him there, and he writes about the man from Cardiff who spent the evening before their admission exams with him in this house:
"He terrified me with his great learning. I had never seen him since."
I had read this sentence in one Lewis's books, but never thought I would be standing at the very same street corner!
One afternoon I go to the History of Science Museum (free admittance, open from 12 noon). Note the old old steps up to the imposing doors. Once inside, go down the really beautiful staircase and turn left, against a wall you find a smallish blackboard with Einstein's writing. He gave lectures in Oxford in 1931. After his first lecture the board was just cleaned, but after the 2nd one somebody had the presence of mind to save it. Today it is behind glass in this museum. Nice to see!
During these days I have to focus on my reason for coming to Oxford at all: WORK. We meet in Harris-Manchester College, and for a few days I have free access to an Oxford college. Manchester is a 'new' college from the 19th century.
The walk there every morning gives me joy: the bus stops next to St Mary Magdalen Church with its graveyard with sunken grey stones and daffodils, bicycles chained to the fence. Then the walk down Broad Street, past the History of Science Museum and the Bodleian, catching a glimpse of the Bridge of Sighs, spend a moment at the windows of Blackwell's (the bookshop of your dreams), carry on in Holywell Street past the New College, turn right into Mansfield Road and there you are!
I grab in-between moments to see a little more of Oxford. During lunchtimes I wander down Holywell to the old city wall, or pop into Blackwell's for a while.
At the corner of Holywell and Mansfield is a (currently) white house with blue window frames. This is where CS Lewis spent his first night in Oxford. He describes how he asked a hansom to take him there, and he writes about the man from Cardiff who spent the evening before their admission exams with him in this house:
"He terrified me with his great learning. I had never seen him since."
I had read this sentence in one Lewis's books, but never thought I would be standing at the very same street corner!
One afternoon I go to the History of Science Museum (free admittance, open from 12 noon). Note the old old steps up to the imposing doors. Once inside, go down the really beautiful staircase and turn left, against a wall you find a smallish blackboard with Einstein's writing. He gave lectures in Oxford in 1931. After his first lecture the board was just cleaned, but after the 2nd one somebody had the presence of mind to save it. Today it is behind glass in this museum. Nice to see!
Mar 26th, 2014, 05:33 AM
#32
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I am also direction deprived. Before somebody corrects me: from Holywell you turn LEFT into Mansfield, if you turn RIGHT you would enter New College. I am wondering: does anybody know where Flanner is?
Mar 26th, 2014, 08:51 AM
#34
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Little moments:
a bicycle with a severely bent wheel still fastened against a rail. Attached to the wheel with reams of Sellotape: "I am very very sorry, please phone me at ..."
A woman wants to get on a full bus with an old-fashioned pram. She has some words with the driver, he refuses her ticket. She is furious, and spits an immense globule of saliva right on to the bus window. I walk past the pram. Inside is a huge, old-fashioned doll. We drive away, with the woman walking in front of the bus, belligerently showing rude signs to the driver, the pram forgotten on the pavement.
A mother and her student long-haired son from the USA eat fish and chips in the Eagle and the Child. They have come all the way to salute the author of Lord of the Rings. The son says: I can't believe we are really here, after everything. He lifts his glass to his mother.
My DD meets me accidentally in Broad Street, smiling, full of the joys of discovery.
The tattooed lodge keeper at Magdalen College seriously asks a 5 year old girl how many deer she had seen. She says slowly in the real British accent: "One hundred". He nods and says: "You have missed one then...".
Three students are learning to punt near Magdalen Bridge. They do not quite get the hang of it, because they laugh too much. One says: "do you think we can just get out and push the thing?"
a bicycle with a severely bent wheel still fastened against a rail. Attached to the wheel with reams of Sellotape: "I am very very sorry, please phone me at ..."
A woman wants to get on a full bus with an old-fashioned pram. She has some words with the driver, he refuses her ticket. She is furious, and spits an immense globule of saliva right on to the bus window. I walk past the pram. Inside is a huge, old-fashioned doll. We drive away, with the woman walking in front of the bus, belligerently showing rude signs to the driver, the pram forgotten on the pavement.
A mother and her student long-haired son from the USA eat fish and chips in the Eagle and the Child. They have come all the way to salute the author of Lord of the Rings. The son says: I can't believe we are really here, after everything. He lifts his glass to his mother.
My DD meets me accidentally in Broad Street, smiling, full of the joys of discovery.
The tattooed lodge keeper at Magdalen College seriously asks a 5 year old girl how many deer she had seen. She says slowly in the real British accent: "One hundred". He nods and says: "You have missed one then...".
Three students are learning to punt near Magdalen Bridge. They do not quite get the hang of it, because they laugh too much. One says: "do you think we can just get out and push the thing?"
Mar 26th, 2014, 09:51 AM
#35
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Adorable, kovsie. There'll always be an England.
Once a woman in a full US Greyhound bus (or coach, if you'd rather) told me her baby was sleeping in the seat next to her, obliging me to squeeze next to a sweet guy of softly overflowing, mostly horizontal, minimum 350 pounds. After I settled in, the driver came back and ordered her to clear the seat for one more passenger. The baby turned out to be her bundled up jacket, which she shoved under the seat.
Once a woman in a full US Greyhound bus (or coach, if you'd rather) told me her baby was sleeping in the seat next to her, obliging me to squeeze next to a sweet guy of softly overflowing, mostly horizontal, minimum 350 pounds. After I settled in, the driver came back and ordered her to clear the seat for one more passenger. The baby turned out to be her bundled up jacket, which she shoved under the seat.
Mar 26th, 2014, 04:15 PM
#36
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I have time for two more pubs. Just next to Blackwell's is the White Horse. It seems so narrow and small that I initially wonder if it is part of Blackwell's. But no, it is definitely its own unique little place, and also known as a watering place for Inklings. (look, they lived most of their lives in Oxford, so they must have used all/most of the existing pubs). I enter this 500yr old pub one busy rainy afternoon, and I am lucky to find a round stool to perch on, with the smallest, slightly rickety, table. A nearby similar table accommodates 7 men with hardly space to put down 7 enormous beer mugs. The ceiling is low, the rain is beating against the window, 3 friendly people seem to manage this very busy pub effortlessly. The name board outside, with a frisky white horse, had me already decided that this may be the Prancing Pony. Being inside strengthened this perception. I can just imagine Strider smoking in the corner in the back, hat drawn low. I also remembered that Winston Churchill (another Strider??) liked to visit here. I have a nice chicken Korma (less than £10), and thoroughly enjoy my time here.
The next 'Inkling pub' is scarcely 50m away: The King's Arms. This pub, right opposite the famous library, claims to have the highest IQ per sq ft in the world. It has a warren of rooms, where oxford tutors sometimes took classes. I visit in the middle of the day during univ holidays, and it is filled to the brim with tourists (myself included). The queue of people trying to place a meal order at a counter is rather long, I do not have much time. In the end I use the time looking around, taking in the photo of the queen drawing a pint, then I leave. I pass it several times each day, and in the late afternoon and in the evenings, the outside tables are filled to capacity. It does have a nice vibe.
Of the three pubs I focused on in my (not extensive) research, I prefer the White Horse. It is also the smallest, so the most difficult to find a seat.
The next 'Inkling pub' is scarcely 50m away: The King's Arms. This pub, right opposite the famous library, claims to have the highest IQ per sq ft in the world. It has a warren of rooms, where oxford tutors sometimes took classes. I visit in the middle of the day during univ holidays, and it is filled to the brim with tourists (myself included). The queue of people trying to place a meal order at a counter is rather long, I do not have much time. In the end I use the time looking around, taking in the photo of the queen drawing a pint, then I leave. I pass it several times each day, and in the late afternoon and in the evenings, the outside tables are filled to capacity. It does have a nice vibe.
Of the three pubs I focused on in my (not extensive) research, I prefer the White Horse. It is also the smallest, so the most difficult to find a seat.
Mar 26th, 2014, 04:27 PM
#37
Charming report, thanks.
In re flanner: a few weeks ago some fanboy or girl made a rather unusual request, that everyone try to piece together exactly who flanner is. The editors promptly and quite rightly removed it, but perhaps the damage had been done. I'm sure most people would regard it as an invasion of privacy, and wonder if perhaps their time would be best spent elsewhere.
In re flanner: a few weeks ago some fanboy or girl made a rather unusual request, that everyone try to piece together exactly who flanner is. The editors promptly and quite rightly removed it, but perhaps the damage had been done. I'm sure most people would regard it as an invasion of privacy, and wonder if perhaps their time would be best spent elsewhere.
Mar 26th, 2014, 04:33 PM
#38
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Kovsie,
You wrote;
“I have wondered about this itch in me to try follow in favourite authors' footsteps. In the end it is their books that speak for them. But yes, it is still a privilege to see Tolkein's college or Lewis's house, even to walk down Baker Street!”
Agreed! In recent years I have taken a Paris Walk of the Moufftard area of Paris (Hemingway, Joyce, Orwell) and a London Walk of Bloomsbury (T. S. Eliot, Virginia Wolf etc.) Loved seeing Faber & Faber publishing where Eliot labored for decades. I also walked down Baker Street once and visited the tacky Sherlock Holmes Museum (knew it was tacky before I went) but loved the area.
That was a lovely description of C. S. Lewis’s digs. Is the house open to the public at all? I know that the property was very dear to the author’s heart. Although I am not a Narnia fan, I enjoyed a biography I read of him last year: C.S. LEWIS, ECCENTRIC GENIUS, RELUCTANT PROPHET – A LIFE by Alister McGrath. Much of it deals with the politics/jealousies/betrayals prevalent in academic life.
Again, great report…
You wrote;
“I have wondered about this itch in me to try follow in favourite authors' footsteps. In the end it is their books that speak for them. But yes, it is still a privilege to see Tolkein's college or Lewis's house, even to walk down Baker Street!”
Agreed! In recent years I have taken a Paris Walk of the Moufftard area of Paris (Hemingway, Joyce, Orwell) and a London Walk of Bloomsbury (T. S. Eliot, Virginia Wolf etc.) Loved seeing Faber & Faber publishing where Eliot labored for decades. I also walked down Baker Street once and visited the tacky Sherlock Holmes Museum (knew it was tacky before I went) but loved the area.
That was a lovely description of C. S. Lewis’s digs. Is the house open to the public at all? I know that the property was very dear to the author’s heart. Although I am not a Narnia fan, I enjoyed a biography I read of him last year: C.S. LEWIS, ECCENTRIC GENIUS, RELUCTANT PROPHET – A LIFE by Alister McGrath. Much of it deals with the politics/jealousies/betrayals prevalent in academic life.
Again, great report…
Mar 26th, 2014, 05:41 PM
#39
Fra: I don't think that would have sent flanner packing. The thread was pulled before that many saw it and flanner is a tougher nut than that
I do hope it is only that they are off enjoying a holiday in Italy.
That was a particularly lame thread and I'm glad it was pulled. It was started for no good reason and then one of our particularly difficult 'contributors'. Responded w/ some totally erroneous information.
I do hope it is only that they are off enjoying a holiday in Italy.
That was a particularly lame thread and I'm glad it was pulled. It was started for no good reason and then one of our particularly difficult 'contributors'. Responded w/ some totally erroneous information.
