Mosel or Rhine
Jun 26th, 2007, 08:42 AM
#1
Original Poster
Mosel or Rhine
Hi,
We are planning a trip in early to mid Oct. to Germany. We are probably flying into Frankfurt and out of Munich. Tentative schedule:
Pick up car in Frankfurt and drive to...
Mosel and/or Rhine area for 4 nights.
Drive to Rothenberg for 2 nights.
Head to Berchtesgaden area for 3 nights.
Stay in Erding by Munich airport our last night.
Question is which town/towns to stay on the Mosel and/or Rhine? Interest here is Burg Eltz, Trier and villages and castles along both rivers. Of course, my wife has always wanted to see the Mosel villages/towns. She loves Riesling wine. Is this too much time here? rcan you recommend a town/place to stay?
We've been to Bavaria 4 times recently, but this will be our first time in this area. Thank you in advance
Paul
We are planning a trip in early to mid Oct. to Germany. We are probably flying into Frankfurt and out of Munich. Tentative schedule:
Pick up car in Frankfurt and drive to...
Mosel and/or Rhine area for 4 nights.
Drive to Rothenberg for 2 nights.
Head to Berchtesgaden area for 3 nights.
Stay in Erding by Munich airport our last night.
Question is which town/towns to stay on the Mosel and/or Rhine? Interest here is Burg Eltz, Trier and villages and castles along both rivers. Of course, my wife has always wanted to see the Mosel villages/towns. She loves Riesling wine. Is this too much time here? rcan you recommend a town/place to stay?
We've been to Bavaria 4 times recently, but this will be our first time in this area. Thank you in advance
Paul
Jun 26th, 2007, 08:50 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
To me the Mosel is infinitely more beautiful than the Rhine - the carpet of vineyards punctuated by cute little wine towns has no parallel on the Rhine.
Cochem, Bernkastel, Beilstein are all great towns.
By car it's easy to do both - the short stretch of Rhine that is the Rhine Gorge, which often fails to live up to expectations of Fodor posts.
Trier is off the cute part of the Mosel but is one of Europe's oldest towns and has arguably the finest Roman relics outside of Italy - especially the Porta Negra.
But the drive from Koblenz to Trier along the Mosel has to be one of Europe's most scintillatingly scenic ones. the road follows the sinuous course of the Mosel Valley - with opft vineyard clad limestone slopes going up nearly 1,000 feet on both sides.
Cochem, Bernkastel, Beilstein are all great towns.
By car it's easy to do both - the short stretch of Rhine that is the Rhine Gorge, which often fails to live up to expectations of Fodor posts.
Trier is off the cute part of the Mosel but is one of Europe's oldest towns and has arguably the finest Roman relics outside of Italy - especially the Porta Negra.
But the drive from Koblenz to Trier along the Mosel has to be one of Europe's most scintillatingly scenic ones. the road follows the sinuous course of the Mosel Valley - with opft vineyard clad limestone slopes going up nearly 1,000 feet on both sides.
Jun 26th, 2007, 09:22 AM
#3
Couldn't say it any better than Pal. The drive from Cochem to Berkastel-Kues is beautiful.
Burg Eltz - Tremendous
Haus Lippman in Beilstein - Nice hotel choice. Rooms face Mosel. Dining area outside on the patio. Good prices. Nice host.
Burg Eltz - Tremendous
Haus Lippman in Beilstein - Nice hotel choice. Rooms face Mosel. Dining area outside on the patio. Good prices. Nice host.
Jun 26th, 2007, 09:26 AM
#4
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mail: i've heard so many glowing posts about Haus Lippmann in Beilstein, a tinier but oh so dreamy village - could you give me a bit more on why this hotel charms everyone it seems. Little guesthouse?
thanks
the boat ride between Cochem and Beilstein is tremendous as is biking on paths along the road. (I led bike trips for ten years up the Mosel to Luxembourg and everyone loved the area - and its wines - if you have a chance cycle downstream with the wind in this rather wind tunnel.)
bikes can easily be rented and some hotels may supply them.
thanks
the boat ride between Cochem and Beilstein is tremendous as is biking on paths along the road. (I led bike trips for ten years up the Mosel to Luxembourg and everyone loved the area - and its wines - if you have a chance cycle downstream with the wind in this rather wind tunnel.)
bikes can easily be rented and some hotels may supply them.
Jun 26th, 2007, 09:40 AM
#5
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 12,820
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Another vote for the Mosel, Burg Eltz (my favorite castle), Beilstein and the Hotel Haus Lippman.
The rooms are charming and not expensive (as I recall), food is served on a vine-covered patio, is very good, and is not expensive. It is one of my favorite places.
Orignally, they gave us a room on the third floor, but when the hosts saw that I was walking with a cane, they asked if we'd like a room lower down and they gave us a lovely second floor room. Very thoughtful of them.
We met the chambermaid, and when she asked where we were from, we said "Spokane, Washington." She said, "Oh, the Evergreen State," and told us she had worked in the Seattle area for a while. It was a very pleasant encounter.
The rooms are charming and not expensive (as I recall), food is served on a vine-covered patio, is very good, and is not expensive. It is one of my favorite places.
Orignally, they gave us a room on the third floor, but when the hosts saw that I was walking with a cane, they asked if we'd like a room lower down and they gave us a lovely second floor room. Very thoughtful of them.
We met the chambermaid, and when she asked where we were from, we said "Spokane, Washington." She said, "Oh, the Evergreen State," and told us she had worked in the Seattle area for a while. It was a very pleasant encounter.
Jun 26th, 2007, 09:49 AM
#6
Haus Lippman - Rufus Firefly alerted us to this tiny hotel back in 2003.
As stated, most, if not all, of the rooms face the Mosel.
Herr Lippman was a gracious host who greeted us at our first lunch (when I was so tired I almost passed out in the goulash soup).
The food, in my opinion, was very good, and the view out onto the Mosel made it a great experience when dining (or drinking with the reunion class from Bernkastel-Kues who were visiting).
Hotel is convenient to Cochem (about 10 minute drive), and not too far from Burg Eltz. The drive down to Bernkastel is lovely (although I would skip Zell). criss-crossing the river.
I love the ambiance of the little town (not for people who are in to a big nightlife, however). That said, on Friday and Saturday nights just take a few steps from the Haus Lippman and (from my trip report):
"In back of the Haus Lipmann is the Zehnthauskeller (owned by Herr Lipmann's brother-in-law). We got there about nine o'clock and the place was hopping full of Germans singing folk songs and other stuff being led by a guy on organ and I think a synthesizer.
The only table was in the front. I walked around and heard no English speaking people anywhere. Perfect.
We ordered some wine, and two German couples sat at the other seats at our table. The next song was about two seconds long when one German lady locked arms with Tracy and one German guy locked arms with me and the songfest had begun in earnest."
We wish we could have stayed another couple of days in Beilstein. We want to go back and rent bikes to ride along the Mosel.
It's just a tranquil spot in a very lovely part of the world.
As stated, most, if not all, of the rooms face the Mosel.
Herr Lippman was a gracious host who greeted us at our first lunch (when I was so tired I almost passed out in the goulash soup).
The food, in my opinion, was very good, and the view out onto the Mosel made it a great experience when dining (or drinking with the reunion class from Bernkastel-Kues who were visiting).
Hotel is convenient to Cochem (about 10 minute drive), and not too far from Burg Eltz. The drive down to Bernkastel is lovely (although I would skip Zell). criss-crossing the river.
I love the ambiance of the little town (not for people who are in to a big nightlife, however). That said, on Friday and Saturday nights just take a few steps from the Haus Lippman and (from my trip report):
"In back of the Haus Lipmann is the Zehnthauskeller (owned by Herr Lipmann's brother-in-law). We got there about nine o'clock and the place was hopping full of Germans singing folk songs and other stuff being led by a guy on organ and I think a synthesizer.
The only table was in the front. I walked around and heard no English speaking people anywhere. Perfect.
We ordered some wine, and two German couples sat at the other seats at our table. The next song was about two seconds long when one German lady locked arms with Tracy and one German guy locked arms with me and the songfest had begun in earnest."
We wish we could have stayed another couple of days in Beilstein. We want to go back and rent bikes to ride along the Mosel.
It's just a tranquil spot in a very lovely part of the world.
Jun 26th, 2007, 10:39 AM
#7
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Several factors make Haus Lipmann a wonderful place to stay. The Lipmann family is foremost. They are so friendly and accommodating to their guests. The rooms are nice, not luxurious, but nicely furnished. The Hotel is right on the river with grape vines on the exterior patio. As stated previously, there's just a special ambience in Beilstein.
Jun 26th, 2007, 10:50 AM
#8
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 78,320
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I never stayed or spent time in Beilstein but rode my bike thru it but isn't there some dreamy old ruin in town?
Lippmann sounds like one of those one-of-a-kind places people dream about when thinking of Europe.
Lippmann sounds like one of those one-of-a-kind places people dream about when thinking of Europe.
Jun 26th, 2007, 07:01 PM
#10
Original Poster
Hi,
Thank you for the informative replies! I guess it looks like a town on the Mosel would be best. Thinking of Beilstein, Cochem or Bernkastel-Kues. We actually prefer more of a quiet setting, no need for "nightlife" really. Am I correct in thinking that a day trip from one of these locations to Marksburg Castle and say St. Goar or Bacharach is doable? Thanks again.
Paul
Thank you for the informative replies! I guess it looks like a town on the Mosel would be best. Thinking of Beilstein, Cochem or Bernkastel-Kues. We actually prefer more of a quiet setting, no need for "nightlife" really. Am I correct in thinking that a day trip from one of these locations to Marksburg Castle and say St. Goar or Bacharach is doable? Thanks again.
Paul
Jun 26th, 2007, 07:37 PM
#11
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 842
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mosel without a doubt. A day trip to St. Goar or Bacharach is very feasible. I think Bacharach is a more "authentic" town and St. Goar quite touristy and a bit more industrial. Lots more to see in St. Goar - but if you want a quieter locale see Bacharach. If you are interested in a little hike, you can find the trail by the old church that takes you up to the castle (youth hostel) at the top of the hill. There is a viewing area on the west side of the castle that gives great photo opportunities. If you don't want to hike (it takes about 10 - 15 minutes) you can drive if you get directions. I'm jealous of your time just thinking about the wonderful trip you will have.
Jun 27th, 2007, 03:41 AM
#13
Join Date: Mar 2007
Posts: 760
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We enjoyed our 3-night stay in Beilstein very much 5 years ago. Hotel Haus Lipmann was very enjoyable (wonderful restaurant, too). We had a large room overlooking the river. I'm an early riser while my wife likes to sleep in. So I would watch boat traffic and waterfowl from our window, and/or take a stroll along the river or up to the castle while she slept.
Quiet and relaxing oasis at the end of a long day of sightseeing.
Quiet and relaxing oasis at the end of a long day of sightseeing.
Jun 27th, 2007, 04:29 AM
#14
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,944
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Beilstein is the quintessential, quiet town and Haus Lipmann is a great place to stay. We stayed there for 4 nights in 2006 and loved the views, rooms, hosts, food on the terrace, and the breakfast room. We drove up and down the Mosel discovering little villages and enjoying the scenery. I would think the daytrips you asked about would be totally doable...Enjoy!
Jun 27th, 2007, 02:23 PM
#15
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 12,009
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Rick Steves has provided a nice introductory walk on Beilstein:
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/desti.../beilstein.htm
Note on Haus Lipmann, they do not accept credit cards so be prepared to pay in cash for your stay.
Burg Metternich is the name of the castle ruin above Beilstein. Great views from up there. Also worth a visit is the Carmelite Church.
Two years ago, we stayed in Bacharach and just loved it. Small but not too small. The Rhine River is definitely "busier" than the Mosel but this part of the Rhine is quite pretty.
http://www.ricksteves.com/plan/desti.../beilstein.htm
Note on Haus Lipmann, they do not accept credit cards so be prepared to pay in cash for your stay.
Burg Metternich is the name of the castle ruin above Beilstein. Great views from up there. Also worth a visit is the Carmelite Church.
Two years ago, we stayed in Bacharach and just loved it. Small but not too small. The Rhine River is definitely "busier" than the Mosel but this part of the Rhine is quite pretty.
Jun 27th, 2007, 02:43 PM
#16
Join Date: Jun 2007
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do the Wine route... we did in October and it was wonderful. We spent the night in Strasbourg and Obernai. Obernai is a small walled town. You can see our pictues on our web site. emilyandjim.info on yahoo....
Jun 27th, 2007, 04:11 PM
#17
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 2,198
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
She loves Riesling wine.
I don't think you will find the wines labeled as variatals (like riesling). However the area is famous for white wines and there are three basic tastes, 'suess' (sweet), 'halb-troken' (half dry) and 'troken' (dry). Bottoms up.
I don't think you will find the wines labeled as variatals (like riesling). However the area is famous for white wines and there are three basic tastes, 'suess' (sweet), 'halb-troken' (half dry) and 'troken' (dry). Bottoms up.
Jun 27th, 2007, 04:13 PM
#18
Original Poster
Hi all,
Thank you for all the helpful info. Jim, thanks for the "link", I enjoyed your photos. We've been planning to see the Mosel/Rhine area and Rothenberg for a few years now, but have wound up going back to southern Bavaria, Austria and Sud Tirol. This year I think we'll finally be going here. Thanks.
paul
Thank you for all the helpful info. Jim, thanks for the "link", I enjoyed your photos. We've been planning to see the Mosel/Rhine area and Rothenberg for a few years now, but have wound up going back to southern Bavaria, Austria and Sud Tirol. This year I think we'll finally be going here. Thanks.
paul
Jun 27th, 2007, 05:12 PM
#19
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 4,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"I don't think you will find the wines labeled as variatals (like riesling)."
German wine labels are strictly governed and must show, among other things: the quality level, the place of origin, the grape variety, and the vintage date. If it is a riesling, the label will tell you.
German wine labels are strictly governed and must show, among other things: the quality level, the place of origin, the grape variety, and the vintage date. If it is a riesling, the label will tell you.
Jun 27th, 2007, 06:00 PM
#20
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 448
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We stayed at Pension Hendricks in Cochem last Spring. It's up hill from the downtown on a very quiet street. Inexpensive B&B. Small but comfortable room with private bathroom. Great breakfast.
http://www.pension-hendriks.de/
Our trip report is here:
http://www.slowtrav.com/tr/triprepor...59&index=0
Photos here:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
http://www.pension-hendriks.de/
Our trip report is here:
http://www.slowtrav.com/tr/triprepor...59&index=0
Photos here:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Slidesho...p;conn_speed=1
