polo

Hoping for some guidance on establishing a good base in Umbria on a 7 night trip Tuscany/Umbria regions. I am staying in San Gimignano for 4 nights to as base for Florence(stayed there before so will only spend one day there), Siena, Volterra, Lucca/Pisa and Chianti region. I want the remaining 3 nights to see Umbria towns of Assisi, Perugia, Spoleto, Todi and Orvieto. I was thinking of La Costa in Montefollonico as a base since it gives an opportunity to see Montepulciano-Pienza-Montalcino, Cortona and more time to explore Siena as well. But I am wondering if my base for Umbria should be further southeast to better appreciate the region, maybe centrally located b/n Orvieto, Perugia and Spoleto? Going next week so need to decide fast! Thanks for assistance.

bobthenavigator

Good question ! That compromise is not uncommon and I have often made that suggestion to my clients. Bear in mind that Assisi is about a :90 drive and the southern villages even further. I would try to hit Orvieto going or coming to Rome. However, that is a great location for the south Tuscany venues, and except for Assisi, they are more desirable to me. You can easily see Cortona and Assisi in one day trip from there, but the other Umbria villages may be too far.

polo

Thank you Bob, I think I'm going to move my Umbria base to Spello, Montefalco or Spoletto. My wife is a classical pianist so the Spoletto music festival is definitely on her list. Based on some postings here I also get the impression that hill towns such as Todi and Spoletto are as beautiful or more beautiful than Montepulciano, Pienza, Montefallonico.

bobthenavigator

Polo, Look at Palazzo Bocci in Spello. A good central base for Umbria.

polo

Thanks Bob, I actually added a post "La Bastiglia or Palazzo Bocci" since I hear both recommended. I mentioned we are coming from San G, staying at La Cisterna for 4 nights. My wife and I thought San G would be a great base since it's lively, a good base for day visits to the other Tuscany towns and has a nice nightlife when the day tourists leave (we're from NYC and like to be able to walk around at night). We would like a good complement in Spello, a little more intimate and romantic. Thanks again.

DRJ

While I have not stayed there, I have eaten at La Bastiglia a couple of times. It is very easy to get to since its at the very top of Spello. You can veer right before you go under the arch at the south (?) entry to Spello and go up the hill and arrive at La Bastiglia' generous parking area.

The hotel has a charming lobby. The kitchen is quite adventurous and the wine list is impressive.

Since I spend a week or so a couple of times a year in the Bevagna area, if you wish I can recommend places in the area to stay and dine.
Ciao e buon viaggio.

polo

I would really appreciate recommendations on dining in the area. I am not sure where Bevagna is in relation to Spello. Since I don't see it in my Frommer's guide, I take it is be a quaint, remote town? I hear wonderful comments about the restaurant in Hotel La Bastiglia so at the very minimum I plan to dine there.

LuluG

Polo, I had reserved 3 nights at La Bastiglia on a trip we made in May. We ck'd into the hotel. They had no elevator, and so we carried some of our bags (they helped carry the rest) *down about 70 or 80 steps to our 2 rooms. The rooms were lovely (beautiful wooden floors, wonderful views); however, there was no A/C working at the time (they said they were going to try to have it fixed within the next 2 days) and the pool was completely full of algae, dark green and otherwise filthy. Our 2 rooms were right over the pool, even though the beautiful Umbrian view was just beyond it. I just made a quick judgment call and decided to move everyone to Palazzo Bocci for the 3 nights, and all 4 of us were so glad we did!

La Bastiglia has better views and beautiful lg rooms (+ a great restaurant, I was told), but is located at the very top of town, and away from most of the shops and other restaurants. La Bastiglia said they were completely booked, but we never saw any other guests there except for the 3 people in the restaurant inside, none outside - it was 8pm - and for a restaurant known for "fantastic food," that seemed strange.

Palazzo Bocci's staff were very helpful & friendly as well, in contrast to La Bastiglia's staff, and the front desk spoke English well. It was tough finding anyone at La Bastiglia who could understand anything we were saying.

Just sharing *my recent experience, for what it's worth. Oh, we all LOVED Spello. A great base, IMO.
-Lulu-

DRJ

POLO: I posted this message twice yesterday, but it apparently did'nt take.

Bevagna is a town about the size of Spello (BTW, there is a nice story about the flower festival in Spello in the current NYTimes website). It is ten or so km west of the main road connecting Perugia and Spoleto and has a couple of good dining experiences. Ottovius is at the south entrance to Bevagna and is mentioned in a couple of guides. Very good Umbrian food. Enoteca Piazza Onofri is in the center of town. Good food and excellent wines. They have thirteen apaartments for rent. We have stayed there a couple of times and find it quite convenient. Parking is nearby. They have a website.

Another great place to stay in the area is Le Case Gialle, a remote four apartment complex near the little hilltown of Gualdo Cataneo. Mauro and Silvana are most gracious and they can boast of pressing the best organic olive oil in all of Italy (as judged by the government last year). We're on our second six pack. They have a website.

You should not pass up the opportunity of tasting and purchasing Sagrantino di Montefalco. Prominent vintners are Arnaldo Caprai and Paolo Bea. Any local can direct you to either place.

Finally, for a memorable lunch (or dinner) you must go to Taverna del Pescatore in the little town of Pigge. Traveling south on the main road as you pass Trevi (gracing a hill to the east of the road) watch for one little sign directing you to TdP. It is just off the road on the west side. On a sunny day you sit under the huge tent along a little stream replete with tiny waterfall and swans. The food and wine are great. (We try not to stay longer than four hours.)

polo

LuluG,
Wow! great save by moving to Hotel Bocci. That's the worst feeling when a hotel does not meet your expectations and a great experience to save yourself by finding the right one, makes you appreciate it even more. Similiar experience happened when I went to Spain and stayed at the Don Carlos, a so called 5 star hotel. I had to book two other hotels which were twice as expensive (the Puento Romano and Marbella Club) to save the vacation (and the marriage!) but still had to pay for Don Carlo as it was prepaid through an agency. Not quite the save you made but we were better off nonetheless.

I get the impression that you are a family of 4 and The Hotel Bocci was more suitable, better amenities, modern conveniences, livelier? Since it will be me and my wife, I don't think I would mind the remoteness of the hotel and quietness of the restaurant. A/C would've been a problem though. The view you and many others speak of is very important to me. I did some research and found that since Bocci is a 4 star, a standard room is priced equivalent to a room with a balcony at La Bastiglia which I am assuming is larger. Wondering which is better, inferior room in nicer hotel or nicer room in a smaller hotel. Thank you for sharing your experience.

polo

DRJ,
Thanks much for your recommendations. I just read the NY Times piece on the "Flowering of Spello" and it's a fascinating article. Awesome pictures too. I looked at Bevagna on a few websites and it looks like an amazing medieval city. We definitely plan to put this on the itinerary of towns to explore. Thanks for the dining suggestions which we will surely take advantage of as well as the vintner recommendations in Monetfalco. Cannot wait to taste the Sagrantinos and Rosso Riservas! Molto Grazie

LuluG

Polo - Actually, I went with my mother (shared 1 room) and my 2 best friends (shared the 2nd room). We were there May 6th thru 9th, and the weather in Italy at that time was said to be unseasonably hot. (It was high 80s, low 90s and at least 80% humidity!) So A/C *was a consideration at the time. (never thought we'd need it then, that's for sure!)

As always, it really does depend on what you're after and when you're going.

Bastiglia Pluses: Lg, beautiful rooms w/french doors opening out to patio w/gorgeous Umbrian rolling hillside views, lg beautiful bathrooms, dark polished wooden floors w/area rugs, great restaurant (I've been told) with outdoor seating in good weather. All of which is why I initially chose that location over P.Bocci.

Minuses: Difficult to communicate with staff (language barrier), lots of steps to room (my friends say it was over 80 steps!), shops and restaurants down the hill near P. Bocci.

So....if you're after seclusion and beauty and U don't mind the rest, I'd opt for Bastiglia too. The views really were gorgeous!

Lulu