MOLTO BELLA, ITALIA!
Jan 7th, 2018, 06:40 PM
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UMBRIA and TUSCANCY
En route to ORVIETO, in Umbria
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2017
Before leaving Sorrento at 8:30, we visited an intarsio (inlaid wood) manufacturing company and saw the detailed and time-consuming process which is required for this art. We watched a demo of this painstaking work, and enjoyed their showroom of gorgeous pieces ranging from tables to music boxes, one of which we purchased for our foyer. Interestingly, it plays “Come back to Sorrento”. Natturno Intarsio (160 EUR) We hope to follow the invitation!
Our destination was the town of Orvieto in the Umbria region, north of Rome. Leaving Sorrento, we had our last look at the beautiful Gulf of Naples. The drive was long and, after the magnificent scenery of the Amalfi Coast area, was less exciting. However, it provided a welcome rest for our legs, as just about everything we enjoyed during the past few days required walking and climbing.
As we traveled, Vincenzo described some of the long and complicated history of Italy, explaining the diversity of its people. Over many, many years, areas which now comprise Italy have been invaded and settled by various different peoples. Etruscans, whose culture we would encounter as we traveled on, preceded the Romans in Umbria and Tuscany. Greeks settled the Mediterranean, as well as North Africans, and Phoenicians who entered from the south. Jews entered the country during the period of the Roman republic, and German tribes came after the fall of Rome. The Byzantine Empire ruled the southern part of the peninsula for five-hundred years, into the ninth century. Sicily had many invaders. 1720 Austrians ruled Sicily and about the same time controlled northern Italy. Such a mix of different cultures over the years contributed to the differences in what is from 1870 a unified Italy.
Vincenzo described that Italians are from different gene pools, having different languages, food, and customs, stemming from their complicated past when they were different city-states until the unification in 1870. Even today, many people identify themselves by their region of origin; such as Lazio, Calabria, etc. Just that little bit of information made us curious about learning more of the interesting story of Italy.
The area we were passing through was mostly agricultural over its history, with “absentee” landowners. We learned about the bombing of the Monte Casino Monastery, and the heroic efforts of the Allies in WWll, especially Americans, to hold the Germans. In fact, there are a couple of cemeteries with hundreds of Americans buried which are maintained by the US Government.
Although the terrain was mostly flat, there were always mountains visible in the distance.
Circumventing the area around Rome, we traveled north on the “Highway to Heaven”, the Autostrada, a well-maintained road with occasional fee stations. We stopped every 1 ½ hours for a restroom break which included cappuccinos and time for lunch at the second stop.
As we approached Umbria, the terrain became more rolling, with large rock outcroppings, forests, farmlands, and large expanses of greenery. Orvieto, like many small towns we would visit, has its old hilltop city, and a newer city which has grown up around it. When we approached the old town Orvieto, the coach could go only so far. We had to carry our extra backpacks up a walk to a funicular holding 6–8 people. Then it was another hike to our Hotel Aquila Bianca where we arrived just after 4 or so.
We got our assigned room (329) in this quaint, charming, old hotel. It overlooked one of the several cobblestone lanes in the town dotted with little shops, including a hair salon and a nice pottery shop, immediately across from our hotel. After check-in, we had 40 minutes or so to get settled before we had a walk with Vincenzo through the small town and to the major attraction which is the outstanding Duomo Di Orvieto or Cathedral of Mary of the Assumption.
Its Gothic façade with a stunning gold and mosaic representation of Mary is considered one of the great masterpieces of the Late Middle Ages. We arrived in the square at what some call the “golden hour” as the soft evening sun lit up the church and the square. We paid 4 EUR each to enter. An impressive church with an interesting history. The interior art works were mostly of Italian artists, including Florentine and Sienese artists. The stained glass windows were outstanding! Some consider this Duomo to be one of the most architecturally important in Europe.
After touring the church, we returned to the hotel as it was almost time to freshen up a bit and walk to our destination restaurant by 6:30. By then, the shops were closed
It was a short walk to dinner. The owner of Zeppelin’s Restaurant (apparently, he’s a fan of Led’s music) did a demo making pasta: flour, eggs, mix, let set, rolled endlessly in a ball, and then roll it out from each end before cutting it in various widths for different types of pasta. He was quite a showman and used the pasta he made to prepare the meal. The wine and the food were good, topped off only by the entertaining demo. We walked back to the hotel, aiming to pack and retire by 11 PM.
ASSISI; 1st evening in PERUGIA
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2017
The next five days would be an exploration and enjoyment of the unique beauty of the Umbrian and Tuscan countryside. We would visit areas with unforgettable landscapes, rolling vistas with seemingly endless miles of vineyards and green meadows, lavishly ornate churches, great art works, castles perched at the top of high cliffs, villages clinging to hillsides, and even a bit of coastline where ancient towns hang over the sea. And we would learn of the less glorious history of turbulent, often brutally violent years. Fear of enemies was the reason why all these towns were built on hilltops. Amid all the struggles, the Gothic and Renaissance eras gave us mind-boggling artistic, scientific, and technical achievements.
Although there are similar characteristics of the towns we would visit, each one has its distinctive elements and flavor. And all provide more than ample opportunity for walking and climbing on cobblestone and rock uneven paths and stairs. One’s daily workout is provided.
On this day, we were off by 9 AM for the hour-long drive to Assisi. Probably over a dozen buses were already in the parking lot when we arrived, as Assisi is one of the most visited sites. Marcus was our tour guide, full of energy and a great positive spokesperson for the tour.
Again, we walked a lot, first visiting the church of St Clare, a young woman from a wealthy family who was touched by Francis. When she heard Francis speak, she became one of his first followers. She renounced her life of luxury to devote herself to prayer. Clare formed a monastic order for women which came to be known by the name “Poor Clares”.
Following the visit to the church of St. Clare, we made the walk to the Church of St. Frances. The tomb of the saint is in a crypt on the lower level. The remains of St. Francis lie in a hollow cut out of rock under a stone slab fronted by a wrought iron grating. The quiet and reverent atmosphere of the area around the St. Francis memorial was inspirational.
Marcus offered detailed explanation about the life of Francis, born into a wealthy family in 1181, with his mission of renouncing worldly goods and serving the poor. He inspired others to follow his example and thus was the beginning of the Franciscan Order which has since spread throughout the world.
The upper church, with frescoes by Giotto and his school, was impressive. Some portrayed scenes from the Bible and others from the life of Francis. One would need a lot of time to study them in detail.
Vincenzo arranged to treat everyone to a luncheon sandwich from a local wine store. We chose the prosciutto and cheese, and since there wasn’t much seating, found a doorstep where we could enjoy it. We then found a small café to have a beer, use the restroom, and see some women from Guadeloupe, Mexico with their ceremonial white outfits, who were on pilgrimage to Assisi.
Following the visit to Assisi, we drove on to Perugia, about a half-hour ride in the Umbria region. Before checking in to our hotel, we made a stop at a textile weaving factory which is in the building that had been the first Franciscan church in Perugia. This textile weaving is another art which people fear seems to be dying out. If people do not support it, there is a real concern that the art may disappear as there are not enough younger people to carry it on. While we appreciated the skill involved, the products were not our “cup of tea”.
Perugia’s uniquesness is its distinct levels, thankfully connected with escalators. We arrived at our Sangello Park Hotel about 5:30. It was located on a lower level of Perugia. Although it was tricky to negotiate because of one-way streets around the hotel, Massimo got us right up to the entrance. We had about an hour to freshen up.
Again, Marcus was our tour guide as we negotiated the escalators and tunnels up the mountain to the old city. One of the outstanding sights was the view over the valley and Lake Tasimeno, Italy’s 4th largest lake. We ultimately walked to the cathedral San Lorenzo, a rather stark looking building, after being told about the Pope’s Salt War and the city’s ancient history dating back to BC.
A film crew was working at the cathedral plaza area causing some confusion, but finally, we were permitted to walk in front of the church, carefully avoiding the cables. The steps of the cathedral seem to be the location where crowds of Perugians congregate, as they overlook the piazza’s centerpiece, the Fontana Maggiore. However, we were happy to be able to cross in front and continue our exploration of the main street.
Perugia is known as a university town, with the University of Perugia dating back to the 14th Century. It’s also known as a cultural and artistic center of Italy. Its huge Jazz Festival and Eurochocolate Festival draw crowds from all around.
We saw the courthouse where Amanda Knox was tried a few years ago. This event, plus Perugia’s proximity to the 2012 earthquakes, has apparently taken a toll on its tourism.
Another interesting fact about Perugia, as with other towns in this Umbrian/Tuscan area, is its age dating back to BC.
The main pedestrian street is lined with many high-end shops of all kinds, as well as an abundance of restaurants. We chose to eat at Ferrari’s Pizzeria (40 euros for 2 beers, 2 wines, melon with prosciutto, and splitting a tagliatelle bolognese). It was chilly on this evening, so we chose to eat inside. We invited Mariah and Mike from Oklahoma, a couple whom we really liked, to join our table. Mariah shared her life as a teen-ager in Jakarta, Indonesia, where her step-father worked for Atlantic-Richmond Oil; then the interesting origins of her relationship with Mike which has lasted 27 years. Their stories made the meal interesting, and we all managed to find our way to the hotel through the old tunnels and usage of the escalators. Some of these ancient tunnels are now being developed into boutiques.
Another long, busy day in Assisi and exploration of Perugia. We retired about 11 PM and were thankful that we would not be leaving until 9 in the morning.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2017
Off at 9 AM for a trip to Cortona. We met up with the tour guide Giovanni at a predetermined location on the outskirts of the city. We were further introduced to the Etruscan culture, a highly-developed civilization which existed from several hundred years BC. With Giovanni’s lead, we explored some Etruscan tombs. Although the area was filled with serious history, the commentary by Giovanni was hilarious. He could easily succeed as a stand-up comedian
Our coach then moved on closer to Cortona, famous for the book and movie “Under the Tuscan Sun”. We disembarked from the coach at the top of a hill on a long, narrow, rather steep, winding road, assuming we would be walking into the town center. Instead, we were led to the actual house called “Bramasole” that Frances Mayes, the author of the book “Under the Tuscan Sun”, had renovated and lives in for part of the year. There was a subsequent movie by the same name; however, the movie house is in another location. Apparently, our tour leader had done some carpentry on the set and made light of the movie, but liked the book version as being 90% accurate. Both the setting and the home were very attractive.
We moved on to the historical city high on the hill called Cortona. Fra Angelico lived here in the 14th Century. Cortona has many ancient Roman buildings with narrow streets. For us, the appeal of Cortona was its idyllic setting looking out over the lush green rolling hills and the enjoyment of a delightful lunch looking over the piazza.
There are similarities in these Umbrian and Tuscan towns: gateways into and out of town, narrow cobblestone streets that usually are not flat, but uneven and steep; shops abounding with lovely pottery, usually some expensive clothing stores; scarfs in abundance as well as souvenirs, post cards, t-shirts; along with Pinocchio figures.
In the main square of Cortona, Piazza della Republica, we could recognize a couple of film locations, such as the place where the fountain (made of fiberglass) was placed and later removed due to complaints of local women who thought it was obscene; the flag throwing contest; the steps for the Christmas scene.
We were happy to have about two hours to spend, so we aimed for a restaurant on a terrace overlooking the piazza, making for a great view. The antipasto of melon and prosciutto and the two primis consisting of linguine with mushrooms, and linguine with lemon, along with a birra (Moretti) and wine were quite good. A long lunch at a great viewing spot of the square was fun and relaxing. We didn’t mind that we had a shortened time for sightseeing around the old city of Cortona. Most of the attraction was in the area surrounding the piazza.
Returning to Perugia, we appreciated having about two hours to rest before the evening venture of lights and a meal at a restaurant 15 minutes away. At this point, we were both fighting colds.
At 6:00 PM, it was time to head to Ristoro Terme di San Galigano in an area surrounding Perugia, about a fifteen-minute coach ride. Flavia, the grandma and part of the kitchen, greeted us at the stairway. She apparently runs the restaurant. The interior is a former wine cellar, nicely appointed and lit.
We judged this meal to be the best so far: antipasto of fried zucchini, mushrooms, polenta; then two pastas: gnocchi, ravioli – first the traditional and then the spinach or green colored ravioli (a fave). Following those dishes, was the secondi: tossed salad and thinly-sliced pork done in a flavorful truffle sauce. Excellent! We were full, but still managed a dessert or “sweet” as they call it: choice of tiramisu or cheesecake. But the small espresso was too strong! (TK inadvertently filled it to the top with effervescent / bubbly water, mistaking it for “natural”…ugh!)
The restaurant had white brick walls with a low, arched ceiling and some artifacts of antiquity in the lower ground behind our seats, protected by a glass-enclosure. At our table were the two Philippino couples, neighbors in the middle island of the Philippines: George (MD) and Mary; Moises, who owns a furniture manufacturing company for high end furniture, and his wife is Evelyn. We learned that they have four servants in their household: for cooking, cleaning, outdoor maintenance, etc. Tom sat next to Moises who knows little English, but is a friendly guy, while Margie sat next to another couple, Cheryl and Jon from Flagstaff, Arizona. They are both extremely intelligent, like to travel and are knowledgeable about many areas, including international affairs.
Overall, the meal was extremely satisfying. We returned to Sangello Park Hotel by about 9:15. Amazing how the weather has been so great…70+ degrees in daytime with sun and then after sunset probably a 10 degree drop.
In the morning, we would be moving on. So it’s an evening of packing.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2017
Off at 9 AM, we left Perugia and headed to Siena, a highly popular city for tourists. It has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s another town dating back to Etruscan times, BC. Its surroundings are medieval, and it has been an arch-rival of Florence since Medieval times when Italy was a series of city-states. From the mid-1300’s through the mid 1400’s, Siena was a preeminent banking and trade center, and a military power. Its location on the north-south road to Rome made it a great trading center. Eventually, Florence prevailed as the great powerhouse of the area.
Siena is known for its outstanding cathedral, its art, museums, cuisine, and perhaps most of all, the Palio, a unique horse race held twice a year in the Piazza del Campo. Ten horses, representing different wards, whose jockeys, dressed in colors which represent their respective wards, race bareback along a dirt track. There are thousands of spectators, and a lot of fanfare with flags and other related decorations and food. These races are main events in the city!
We met up with Nicoletta, a local tour guide, who was quite informative as she escorted us across town and ultimately to the one big attraction, the Duoma di Siena. Except for times when services are going on, the cathedral is a museum. This cathedral ranks up there with one of the most beautiful we will have seen.
The art in the cathedral is overwhelming. Its style is Renaissance, with impressive striped columns and intricate marble inlays on the floor. Its Michelangelo statues and Bernini sculptures make it an impressive structure.
When we arrived, it seemed that we had a lot of time. But the tour of the city and the lines for the restroom took much longer than expected. We realized that we had to walk back to the meeting area and eat within a 45-minute period
For lunch, we chose the Alla Speranza caffe Nannini overlooking the piazza for wine, beer, and two spaghetti carbonara. Shortly after we ordered, Ann and Jollie, two of our group, sat at the table next to us. We all made it back to the coach by 2:15.
Another long hike back to the coach and we were off to a wine tasting at a winery featuring Chianti for the tasting and a description of the years of aging as well as the whole process of growing grapes. We were introduced to Sangiovese grapes, and the contents and aging of the differing wines was explained. After having been in the South of France in 2016, and visiting the fields of the grape vines, as well as having descriptions of the process, we were satisfied to have only tastings of the different levels of wine. The standards for producing Chianti, the highest level being required to have at least 90% Sangiovese grapes, were explained. From # 1-4, many of us chose #2 as our favorite. Quite a coincidence! To accompany the wine, we were served prosciutto, cheese, and bread. We acquired a real taste for that Sangiovese!
Onward to Hotel San Lorenzo, located just inside the ancient gates of the city Colle de Valle de Elsa. Atop the walled entrance is a bar and restaurant. Since the coach was not able to get through the entrance, we carried our backpacks, etc. a short way. The town’s long and narrow main street winds past old 16th and 17th century noble houses. Vincenzo had never been there and said that the company decided to change the hotel location from the original plan. We arrived about 4 PM and were given Room 129 in this newly-renovated Ross Hotel. It was the best hotel we had had to this point.
Dinner was in the hotel dining room at 7:15. Considering that we were both fighting colds, we were happy to stay in the hotel for dinner. It turned out to be a good one: wine, pasta tagliatelle with a great sauce, then pork (yes again tonight, but a different preparation) and finally tiramisu for dessert, plus cappuccino. We sat across from Raelene and Graham, a dance team from Perth Australia who travel all around to compete. We had a great discussion about travel in Australia, especially Perth where they lived, as well as Graham’s quite extensive travel in the USA prior to their recent marriage.
We were in our room just past 9 PM catching up on notes from the day’s activities, preparing for tomorrow, and anticipating a good night’s rest.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2017
Off to San Gimignano…known to be a busy tourist town.. .by 9 AM. It’s also called “the Town of Fair Towers”. Of the sixty original towers, only fourteen remain. Originally, wealthy people built these towers as shelters to protect them from invading enemies.
Again, from the parking lot, it’s a steep walk up the hill/mountain to the old city area where the charm, and medieval structures are located. Vincenzo led and gave us an orientation tour as we entered through the town's narrow streets with several entrance arches. We explored one square after the other.
He led us to a gelato shop where an employee gave us a description of their gelato which was, he said, especially super. The plus was a card presented to each of us for 3 scoops of gelato, complimentary, before we ventured back to the coach. Later we did “cash in” without a hassle…and it was extremely good.
We stopped at café for cappuccinos and a restroom break before walking across the piazza to the Duomo. Our goal was the 11 o’clock Mass at the Duomo of San Gimignano…all in Italian with a church full of people. We saw ten other people from our group there. The church was full, with lots of young kids in the sides of the apse and in the front seats of the body of the church. The service lasted about an hour.
During the handshake of Peace, Tom initiated a walk across the aisle, to reach a few in our group, followed by Margie. Afterwards, the group mentioned how they appreciated the gesture, when one couple said, “We’re Lutherans!” That gave us all a good laugh, and became a running joke throughout the trip.
Afterward, we hiked up the steps to La Rocka, a peaceful hilltop garden with a 14th century fortress surrounded with olive groves. Did we mention that we had our first day of “drizzle” so far during the trip? Although this hilltop is known for scenic picture-taking over an outstanding valley, the day’s overcast prevented clear pictures.
We retraced out path through the town square, and did some window shopping along the narrow street while enjoying our gelatos. We bought a couple souvenir postcards; then found a nice leather purse for Margie.. We are not usually shoppers, but we like to find original paintings of favorite places. We found such an oil reflecting a Tuscan hillside with grapevines and flowers; artist: Bruno Chrici, now hanging in the foyer in our home.
It was time to hustle down the hill to the meeting place where the coach would pick us up at 1:30. En route to the hotel, we had one short picture-taking stop looking back onto San Gimignano and the vineyards in the valley. We were happy that the sky was beginning to clear.
We had anticipated greater crowds in San Gimignano, and were surprised at how comfortably we could negotiate.
When we arrived in Colle de Valle de Elsa, we had not eaten lunch. The Pharmacia was closed probably, because it is Sunday, so we walked a quarter mile past the Hotel to a small pasticceria. We were happy to find one place still open after their “pranza’ (lunch) hours, and we each had a panino and a cappuccino for 7.20 EUR. We returned to our hotel room to write these notes and get clothes ready for tonight’s meal. Also, to nourish our colds with more vitamin C.
The coach was off at 5PM for a 45-minute long drive to Restorante Montebuoni, high up a mountain overlooking beautiful scenery. We needed to deboard the coach and squeeze into smaller mini-buses to climb to the top. The restaurant husband and wife owners met us as we arrived. We were greeted with a complimentary mimosa or a prosecco. The owner was the main chef; extremely outgoing, greeting all the people and hugging the women.
He demonstrated making risotto, which is a time-consuming process. After the initial steps when the ingredients are mixed in, Vincenzo joked that it would require 17 “Swiss minutes”, (as they refer to accurate timing in Italy) to cook. While waiting for the rice to rise, we utilized the time to go outdoors and take more pictures. The weather was perfect, as was the view overlooking the Tuscan hills.
The meal:: antipasto two kinds of salami, prosciutto, chicken mousse), ham, mushroom pate’ on bruschetta; primi of penne pasta noodles with bolognese sauce, risotto, some vegetables in a stew; secondi grilled skewers of pork, chicken, and sausage; dessert of ice cream atop fresh fruit; espresso coffee, and ample wine. A delicious, if filling, meal.
On the return drive to the hotel, we were again entertained with great old music from Saturday Night Fever, Time of my Life, My Way, Have I told you lately that I love you, Abba hits from Mama Mia; music provided by Vincenzo and the lights flickering on and off by Massimo, making for a fun, energetic ride. Return about 9:30 with the need to pack for another venture and another hotel.
MONDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2017
Off by 8 AM to Florence, about an hour’s drive. We were happy to have a scenic overview at Michelangelo Piazza for picture-taking. We recalled having a delightful meal at this location several years ago when we did a driving trip through Italy.
Moving down to the city proper of Florence, we met up with a local guide to walk through a few streets and learn the local history. We saw the Duomo and the Baptistry. Of course, this was another outstanding façade to make our list of faves. We were a bit disappointed to be visiting Florence on a Monday when the museums were closed.
After that initial tour of central Florence, we were led to a gold shop. Very expensive and not of interest to us. Then Vincenzo led the group to a leather store, which we thought would be like the little place suggested to us on a former trip by the owners of the hotel. Instead, it was quite an extensive store. Not our type. We were happy that we had purchased the leather purse in San Gimignano.
We were “on our own” until 2. We used the limited time for a leisurely lunch as we enjoyed overlooking the square of Santa Croce Church. We split a pizza and a salad along with a beer and wine (32.50 EUR) at the outdoor café, Osteria Battipalla. Not having enough time to visit any places of interest, like the San Lorenzo Church which contained some famous art works, we took our time for lunch. There were three different table changes on our right side and two on our left: German, Swiss, Australian from Tasmania, Naples, Florida, and another Australian couple, most having only a drink or a quick bite. We enjoyed the brief encounters.
Following lunch, we found an ATM in the square to replenish our EURs. A walk to the coach. and we were off to Lucca, just shy of an hour’s drive. We’ve been to Florence twice in the past where we spent several days each time, and we knew that this trip would give us only a partial day there. But still, we were a bit disappointed that we couldn’t explore at least some of the wonderful art in the city.
Arriving in Lucca, we were introduced to a local guide who met us at the impressive stone gate which leads into the quaint town. A notable feature of Lucca is its intact ancient wall which encircles miles of the old city. It is well-maintained, having a comfortable walkway on top of the wall, with lots of green grass and park area. It’s a wonderful outdoor exercise area for the town and a nice vantage point for visitors like us to appreciate it. But caution when walking the wall! Bicycles, skates, etc. are mixed in among many runners.
Atop the wall there is an amazing view of the city. In Lucca, as in other Tuscan towns, there was competition to have the highest tower. The height of the tower was believed to give prestige to the person building it. Wealthy families would construct these as status symbols. In order to achieve the highest in Lucca, a famous tower called the Torre Guinigbi, has an oak tree growing out of it, planted by the owner to capture the distinction.
One of its claims to fame is that it was the home of Puccini the composer. We were shown where he lived and how the 80-year-old grandmother gave Lucca the house where he grew up. There’s an impressive sculpture of Puccini in a small square.
We were treated to the special raisin/anise bread called buccellaro and following that break, there was time to explore the central piazza of Lucca. We found a small café for a cappuccino while we watched the activity in the square as the Italian “la passeggiuta”” was in effect. This custom is an evening ritual in many Italian cities where the residents dress up to gather and stroll in the squares and streets to talk with their friends and enjoy drinks together. This is especially popular on Sunday evenings.
Following that break, we crossed the square and made a short visit to the St. Michael’s Duomo in the main square. Originally built in 795 over the ancient forum, the large façade, which was rebuilt in the 13th century, has St. Michael, flanked by two angels, at its summit.
We arrived at our hotel, Villa La Principessa, about 6:15 PM and found our suitcases already present outside our rooms. We were invited to meet for a complimentary happy hour at the restaurant bar, followed by a meal. The hotel is a nice old place with a beautiful setting. The meal: a salad and tasty risotto was good. Then followed an entrée of pork, green beans, and potatoes, capped off with dessert and cappuccino.
Following the meal, we were happy to return to our room and utilize the new stock of cold medicine and vitamin C found at a Pharmacia in Lucca. In general, people are really tired and wanting to rest up as tomorrow is a big day in Cinque Terre on coach, boat, train, and, of course, walking. We’re glad that we were in Villa La Principessa for two nights.
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2017
CINQUE TERRE DAY
We’re off to Cinque Terre by 8 AM, approximately an hour’s drive. Leaving Lucca, we began our picture-taking of the lush green mountains. The scenery looked like a perfect water color. Soon we passed the commercial area, a huge defense manufacturing area where Italy makes tanks and other military equipment. It was bombed out during WWII. As we moved on, the scenery became more attractive as the shipping harbor of La Spezia came into view. Following our boat excursion on the Cinque Terre, we would return by train to La Spezia.
After departing from the coach in the parking area in Manarola, one of the towns of the Cinque Terre, it was quite a long walk, thankfully mostly downhill, to the city center and the site of the boat dock. Again, all was well-timed. Tickets were provided and within a few minutes we were on the boat to enjoy the sites of the Cinque Terre cities built into the hillsides.
We were again able to secure seats on the front open deck of the boat. The weather was by now overcast, and the threat of light rain may have discouraged others from sitting outside. But we enjoyed it. . .and never got wet. After leaving Manarola, we passed Corniglia, whose beach we had enjoyed on a previous visit, made a stop at Vernazza, and then landed at Monterossa. It was fun enjoying the outdoor ride on the front of the boat!
One notable feature of the Cinque Terre is the miles of vineyards built into the steep hillsides. Working in these vineyards is extremely taxing on the body, as the rock steps are steep and uneven, and the rows of vines growing on the steep hillsides require constant attention to maintain. There are rudimentary pulleys to assist in lifting heaving materials up the mountainsides, but the people still must climb and straddle the hills.
We had a couple of hours in Monterossa to explore the town, shop and have lunch. We enjoyed outdoor seating at Pizzaria Tratt la Marina in Monterosso al Mare: two beers, ravioli for Margie and lobster on flat spaghetti noodles for Tom, with cappuccinos (44 EUR). Mutual efforts were made by us and a German couple seated next to us to communicate. It was a friendly encounter.
With the time we had left, Tom found a great gelato place for his dessert as we enjoyed our last look of the waterfront in Monterossa.
The boarding dock for the train was up one level. Within a couple of minutes, we were boarded and en route to La Spezia, passing the above Cinque Terre cities in reverse order, stopping briefly at each one. As we traveled about a half-hour to the station in LaSpezia where our coach was waiting, we had a nice discussion with Paola, the local tour guide, who was quite good and very likeable. Conversation with her was interesting and made the trip pass quickly.
Although we enjoyed the experience of the Cinque Terre from the water, the weather being a bit overcast made for less than ideal picture-taking opportunities.
Upon return to the hotel, we had a brief time to freshen up, and at 5:45 we boarded the coach for the evening wine tasting and meal.
The drive to Fattoria il Poggio was about 30-minutes. Following drinks, the meal began with an antipasto of prosciutto, salami and chicken liver mousse on bruschetta. Next was an ancient Roman grain soup that seemed closely akin to barley soup, and was quite tasty. The pasta pappardelle bolognese was wonderful. It’s one of our favorites! For the secondi, a huge piece of steak was placed for each group of 4 people to split. We were told that the dessert was church wine with biscotti which was to be dipped into the wine-a new experience for us.
Return on the coach was fun with Vincenzo finding “retro” songs, and people joining in the singing. Back at our Hotel by 9:30 PM. Needed to pack and be out early for a couple of stops before reaching Parma about 4 PM.
At this point, lots of people were fighting colds. Vincenzo bought some masks, hand sanitizer, etc., hoping to stem the tide. Our days were long, packed with activity, and involving a great deal of walking and climbing. Many people expressed their exhaustion. Good night before 11 PM.
In the morning we would be leaving Tuscany, heading east, circumventing Florence, and visiting some smaller towns of Emilia-Romagna.
En route to ORVIETO, in Umbria
WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 27, 2017
Before leaving Sorrento at 8:30, we visited an intarsio (inlaid wood) manufacturing company and saw the detailed and time-consuming process which is required for this art. We watched a demo of this painstaking work, and enjoyed their showroom of gorgeous pieces ranging from tables to music boxes, one of which we purchased for our foyer. Interestingly, it plays “Come back to Sorrento”. Natturno Intarsio (160 EUR) We hope to follow the invitation!
Our destination was the town of Orvieto in the Umbria region, north of Rome. Leaving Sorrento, we had our last look at the beautiful Gulf of Naples. The drive was long and, after the magnificent scenery of the Amalfi Coast area, was less exciting. However, it provided a welcome rest for our legs, as just about everything we enjoyed during the past few days required walking and climbing.
As we traveled, Vincenzo described some of the long and complicated history of Italy, explaining the diversity of its people. Over many, many years, areas which now comprise Italy have been invaded and settled by various different peoples. Etruscans, whose culture we would encounter as we traveled on, preceded the Romans in Umbria and Tuscany. Greeks settled the Mediterranean, as well as North Africans, and Phoenicians who entered from the south. Jews entered the country during the period of the Roman republic, and German tribes came after the fall of Rome. The Byzantine Empire ruled the southern part of the peninsula for five-hundred years, into the ninth century. Sicily had many invaders. 1720 Austrians ruled Sicily and about the same time controlled northern Italy. Such a mix of different cultures over the years contributed to the differences in what is from 1870 a unified Italy.
Vincenzo described that Italians are from different gene pools, having different languages, food, and customs, stemming from their complicated past when they were different city-states until the unification in 1870. Even today, many people identify themselves by their region of origin; such as Lazio, Calabria, etc. Just that little bit of information made us curious about learning more of the interesting story of Italy.
The area we were passing through was mostly agricultural over its history, with “absentee” landowners. We learned about the bombing of the Monte Casino Monastery, and the heroic efforts of the Allies in WWll, especially Americans, to hold the Germans. In fact, there are a couple of cemeteries with hundreds of Americans buried which are maintained by the US Government.
Although the terrain was mostly flat, there were always mountains visible in the distance.
Circumventing the area around Rome, we traveled north on the “Highway to Heaven”, the Autostrada, a well-maintained road with occasional fee stations. We stopped every 1 ½ hours for a restroom break which included cappuccinos and time for lunch at the second stop.
As we approached Umbria, the terrain became more rolling, with large rock outcroppings, forests, farmlands, and large expanses of greenery. Orvieto, like many small towns we would visit, has its old hilltop city, and a newer city which has grown up around it. When we approached the old town Orvieto, the coach could go only so far. We had to carry our extra backpacks up a walk to a funicular holding 6–8 people. Then it was another hike to our Hotel Aquila Bianca where we arrived just after 4 or so.
We got our assigned room (329) in this quaint, charming, old hotel. It overlooked one of the several cobblestone lanes in the town dotted with little shops, including a hair salon and a nice pottery shop, immediately across from our hotel. After check-in, we had 40 minutes or so to get settled before we had a walk with Vincenzo through the small town and to the major attraction which is the outstanding Duomo Di Orvieto or Cathedral of Mary of the Assumption.
Its Gothic façade with a stunning gold and mosaic representation of Mary is considered one of the great masterpieces of the Late Middle Ages. We arrived in the square at what some call the “golden hour” as the soft evening sun lit up the church and the square. We paid 4 EUR each to enter. An impressive church with an interesting history. The interior art works were mostly of Italian artists, including Florentine and Sienese artists. The stained glass windows were outstanding! Some consider this Duomo to be one of the most architecturally important in Europe.
After touring the church, we returned to the hotel as it was almost time to freshen up a bit and walk to our destination restaurant by 6:30. By then, the shops were closed
It was a short walk to dinner. The owner of Zeppelin’s Restaurant (apparently, he’s a fan of Led’s music) did a demo making pasta: flour, eggs, mix, let set, rolled endlessly in a ball, and then roll it out from each end before cutting it in various widths for different types of pasta. He was quite a showman and used the pasta he made to prepare the meal. The wine and the food were good, topped off only by the entertaining demo. We walked back to the hotel, aiming to pack and retire by 11 PM.
ASSISI; 1st evening in PERUGIA
THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 28, 2017
The next five days would be an exploration and enjoyment of the unique beauty of the Umbrian and Tuscan countryside. We would visit areas with unforgettable landscapes, rolling vistas with seemingly endless miles of vineyards and green meadows, lavishly ornate churches, great art works, castles perched at the top of high cliffs, villages clinging to hillsides, and even a bit of coastline where ancient towns hang over the sea. And we would learn of the less glorious history of turbulent, often brutally violent years. Fear of enemies was the reason why all these towns were built on hilltops. Amid all the struggles, the Gothic and Renaissance eras gave us mind-boggling artistic, scientific, and technical achievements.
Although there are similar characteristics of the towns we would visit, each one has its distinctive elements and flavor. And all provide more than ample opportunity for walking and climbing on cobblestone and rock uneven paths and stairs. One’s daily workout is provided.
On this day, we were off by 9 AM for the hour-long drive to Assisi. Probably over a dozen buses were already in the parking lot when we arrived, as Assisi is one of the most visited sites. Marcus was our tour guide, full of energy and a great positive spokesperson for the tour.
Again, we walked a lot, first visiting the church of St Clare, a young woman from a wealthy family who was touched by Francis. When she heard Francis speak, she became one of his first followers. She renounced her life of luxury to devote herself to prayer. Clare formed a monastic order for women which came to be known by the name “Poor Clares”.
Following the visit to the church of St. Clare, we made the walk to the Church of St. Frances. The tomb of the saint is in a crypt on the lower level. The remains of St. Francis lie in a hollow cut out of rock under a stone slab fronted by a wrought iron grating. The quiet and reverent atmosphere of the area around the St. Francis memorial was inspirational.
Marcus offered detailed explanation about the life of Francis, born into a wealthy family in 1181, with his mission of renouncing worldly goods and serving the poor. He inspired others to follow his example and thus was the beginning of the Franciscan Order which has since spread throughout the world.
The upper church, with frescoes by Giotto and his school, was impressive. Some portrayed scenes from the Bible and others from the life of Francis. One would need a lot of time to study them in detail.
Vincenzo arranged to treat everyone to a luncheon sandwich from a local wine store. We chose the prosciutto and cheese, and since there wasn’t much seating, found a doorstep where we could enjoy it. We then found a small café to have a beer, use the restroom, and see some women from Guadeloupe, Mexico with their ceremonial white outfits, who were on pilgrimage to Assisi.
Following the visit to Assisi, we drove on to Perugia, about a half-hour ride in the Umbria region. Before checking in to our hotel, we made a stop at a textile weaving factory which is in the building that had been the first Franciscan church in Perugia. This textile weaving is another art which people fear seems to be dying out. If people do not support it, there is a real concern that the art may disappear as there are not enough younger people to carry it on. While we appreciated the skill involved, the products were not our “cup of tea”.
Perugia’s uniquesness is its distinct levels, thankfully connected with escalators. We arrived at our Sangello Park Hotel about 5:30. It was located on a lower level of Perugia. Although it was tricky to negotiate because of one-way streets around the hotel, Massimo got us right up to the entrance. We had about an hour to freshen up.
Again, Marcus was our tour guide as we negotiated the escalators and tunnels up the mountain to the old city. One of the outstanding sights was the view over the valley and Lake Tasimeno, Italy’s 4th largest lake. We ultimately walked to the cathedral San Lorenzo, a rather stark looking building, after being told about the Pope’s Salt War and the city’s ancient history dating back to BC.
A film crew was working at the cathedral plaza area causing some confusion, but finally, we were permitted to walk in front of the church, carefully avoiding the cables. The steps of the cathedral seem to be the location where crowds of Perugians congregate, as they overlook the piazza’s centerpiece, the Fontana Maggiore. However, we were happy to be able to cross in front and continue our exploration of the main street.
Perugia is known as a university town, with the University of Perugia dating back to the 14th Century. It’s also known as a cultural and artistic center of Italy. Its huge Jazz Festival and Eurochocolate Festival draw crowds from all around.
We saw the courthouse where Amanda Knox was tried a few years ago. This event, plus Perugia’s proximity to the 2012 earthquakes, has apparently taken a toll on its tourism.
Another interesting fact about Perugia, as with other towns in this Umbrian/Tuscan area, is its age dating back to BC.
The main pedestrian street is lined with many high-end shops of all kinds, as well as an abundance of restaurants. We chose to eat at Ferrari’s Pizzeria (40 euros for 2 beers, 2 wines, melon with prosciutto, and splitting a tagliatelle bolognese). It was chilly on this evening, so we chose to eat inside. We invited Mariah and Mike from Oklahoma, a couple whom we really liked, to join our table. Mariah shared her life as a teen-ager in Jakarta, Indonesia, where her step-father worked for Atlantic-Richmond Oil; then the interesting origins of her relationship with Mike which has lasted 27 years. Their stories made the meal interesting, and we all managed to find our way to the hotel through the old tunnels and usage of the escalators. Some of these ancient tunnels are now being developed into boutiques.
Another long, busy day in Assisi and exploration of Perugia. We retired about 11 PM and were thankful that we would not be leaving until 9 in the morning.
FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 29, 2017
Off at 9 AM for a trip to Cortona. We met up with the tour guide Giovanni at a predetermined location on the outskirts of the city. We were further introduced to the Etruscan culture, a highly-developed civilization which existed from several hundred years BC. With Giovanni’s lead, we explored some Etruscan tombs. Although the area was filled with serious history, the commentary by Giovanni was hilarious. He could easily succeed as a stand-up comedian
Our coach then moved on closer to Cortona, famous for the book and movie “Under the Tuscan Sun”. We disembarked from the coach at the top of a hill on a long, narrow, rather steep, winding road, assuming we would be walking into the town center. Instead, we were led to the actual house called “Bramasole” that Frances Mayes, the author of the book “Under the Tuscan Sun”, had renovated and lives in for part of the year. There was a subsequent movie by the same name; however, the movie house is in another location. Apparently, our tour leader had done some carpentry on the set and made light of the movie, but liked the book version as being 90% accurate. Both the setting and the home were very attractive.
We moved on to the historical city high on the hill called Cortona. Fra Angelico lived here in the 14th Century. Cortona has many ancient Roman buildings with narrow streets. For us, the appeal of Cortona was its idyllic setting looking out over the lush green rolling hills and the enjoyment of a delightful lunch looking over the piazza.
There are similarities in these Umbrian and Tuscan towns: gateways into and out of town, narrow cobblestone streets that usually are not flat, but uneven and steep; shops abounding with lovely pottery, usually some expensive clothing stores; scarfs in abundance as well as souvenirs, post cards, t-shirts; along with Pinocchio figures.
In the main square of Cortona, Piazza della Republica, we could recognize a couple of film locations, such as the place where the fountain (made of fiberglass) was placed and later removed due to complaints of local women who thought it was obscene; the flag throwing contest; the steps for the Christmas scene.
We were happy to have about two hours to spend, so we aimed for a restaurant on a terrace overlooking the piazza, making for a great view. The antipasto of melon and prosciutto and the two primis consisting of linguine with mushrooms, and linguine with lemon, along with a birra (Moretti) and wine were quite good. A long lunch at a great viewing spot of the square was fun and relaxing. We didn’t mind that we had a shortened time for sightseeing around the old city of Cortona. Most of the attraction was in the area surrounding the piazza.
Returning to Perugia, we appreciated having about two hours to rest before the evening venture of lights and a meal at a restaurant 15 minutes away. At this point, we were both fighting colds.
At 6:00 PM, it was time to head to Ristoro Terme di San Galigano in an area surrounding Perugia, about a fifteen-minute coach ride. Flavia, the grandma and part of the kitchen, greeted us at the stairway. She apparently runs the restaurant. The interior is a former wine cellar, nicely appointed and lit.
We judged this meal to be the best so far: antipasto of fried zucchini, mushrooms, polenta; then two pastas: gnocchi, ravioli – first the traditional and then the spinach or green colored ravioli (a fave). Following those dishes, was the secondi: tossed salad and thinly-sliced pork done in a flavorful truffle sauce. Excellent! We were full, but still managed a dessert or “sweet” as they call it: choice of tiramisu or cheesecake. But the small espresso was too strong! (TK inadvertently filled it to the top with effervescent / bubbly water, mistaking it for “natural”…ugh!)
The restaurant had white brick walls with a low, arched ceiling and some artifacts of antiquity in the lower ground behind our seats, protected by a glass-enclosure. At our table were the two Philippino couples, neighbors in the middle island of the Philippines: George (MD) and Mary; Moises, who owns a furniture manufacturing company for high end furniture, and his wife is Evelyn. We learned that they have four servants in their household: for cooking, cleaning, outdoor maintenance, etc. Tom sat next to Moises who knows little English, but is a friendly guy, while Margie sat next to another couple, Cheryl and Jon from Flagstaff, Arizona. They are both extremely intelligent, like to travel and are knowledgeable about many areas, including international affairs.
Overall, the meal was extremely satisfying. We returned to Sangello Park Hotel by about 9:15. Amazing how the weather has been so great…70+ degrees in daytime with sun and then after sunset probably a 10 degree drop.
In the morning, we would be moving on. So it’s an evening of packing.
SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 30, 2017
Off at 9 AM, we left Perugia and headed to Siena, a highly popular city for tourists. It has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s another town dating back to Etruscan times, BC. Its surroundings are medieval, and it has been an arch-rival of Florence since Medieval times when Italy was a series of city-states. From the mid-1300’s through the mid 1400’s, Siena was a preeminent banking and trade center, and a military power. Its location on the north-south road to Rome made it a great trading center. Eventually, Florence prevailed as the great powerhouse of the area.
Siena is known for its outstanding cathedral, its art, museums, cuisine, and perhaps most of all, the Palio, a unique horse race held twice a year in the Piazza del Campo. Ten horses, representing different wards, whose jockeys, dressed in colors which represent their respective wards, race bareback along a dirt track. There are thousands of spectators, and a lot of fanfare with flags and other related decorations and food. These races are main events in the city!
We met up with Nicoletta, a local tour guide, who was quite informative as she escorted us across town and ultimately to the one big attraction, the Duoma di Siena. Except for times when services are going on, the cathedral is a museum. This cathedral ranks up there with one of the most beautiful we will have seen.
The art in the cathedral is overwhelming. Its style is Renaissance, with impressive striped columns and intricate marble inlays on the floor. Its Michelangelo statues and Bernini sculptures make it an impressive structure.
When we arrived, it seemed that we had a lot of time. But the tour of the city and the lines for the restroom took much longer than expected. We realized that we had to walk back to the meeting area and eat within a 45-minute period
For lunch, we chose the Alla Speranza caffe Nannini overlooking the piazza for wine, beer, and two spaghetti carbonara. Shortly after we ordered, Ann and Jollie, two of our group, sat at the table next to us. We all made it back to the coach by 2:15.
Another long hike back to the coach and we were off to a wine tasting at a winery featuring Chianti for the tasting and a description of the years of aging as well as the whole process of growing grapes. We were introduced to Sangiovese grapes, and the contents and aging of the differing wines was explained. After having been in the South of France in 2016, and visiting the fields of the grape vines, as well as having descriptions of the process, we were satisfied to have only tastings of the different levels of wine. The standards for producing Chianti, the highest level being required to have at least 90% Sangiovese grapes, were explained. From # 1-4, many of us chose #2 as our favorite. Quite a coincidence! To accompany the wine, we were served prosciutto, cheese, and bread. We acquired a real taste for that Sangiovese!
Onward to Hotel San Lorenzo, located just inside the ancient gates of the city Colle de Valle de Elsa. Atop the walled entrance is a bar and restaurant. Since the coach was not able to get through the entrance, we carried our backpacks, etc. a short way. The town’s long and narrow main street winds past old 16th and 17th century noble houses. Vincenzo had never been there and said that the company decided to change the hotel location from the original plan. We arrived about 4 PM and were given Room 129 in this newly-renovated Ross Hotel. It was the best hotel we had had to this point.
Dinner was in the hotel dining room at 7:15. Considering that we were both fighting colds, we were happy to stay in the hotel for dinner. It turned out to be a good one: wine, pasta tagliatelle with a great sauce, then pork (yes again tonight, but a different preparation) and finally tiramisu for dessert, plus cappuccino. We sat across from Raelene and Graham, a dance team from Perth Australia who travel all around to compete. We had a great discussion about travel in Australia, especially Perth where they lived, as well as Graham’s quite extensive travel in the USA prior to their recent marriage.
We were in our room just past 9 PM catching up on notes from the day’s activities, preparing for tomorrow, and anticipating a good night’s rest.
SUNDAY, OCTOBER 1, 2017
Off to San Gimignano…known to be a busy tourist town.. .by 9 AM. It’s also called “the Town of Fair Towers”. Of the sixty original towers, only fourteen remain. Originally, wealthy people built these towers as shelters to protect them from invading enemies.
Again, from the parking lot, it’s a steep walk up the hill/mountain to the old city area where the charm, and medieval structures are located. Vincenzo led and gave us an orientation tour as we entered through the town's narrow streets with several entrance arches. We explored one square after the other.
He led us to a gelato shop where an employee gave us a description of their gelato which was, he said, especially super. The plus was a card presented to each of us for 3 scoops of gelato, complimentary, before we ventured back to the coach. Later we did “cash in” without a hassle…and it was extremely good.
We stopped at café for cappuccinos and a restroom break before walking across the piazza to the Duomo. Our goal was the 11 o’clock Mass at the Duomo of San Gimignano…all in Italian with a church full of people. We saw ten other people from our group there. The church was full, with lots of young kids in the sides of the apse and in the front seats of the body of the church. The service lasted about an hour.
During the handshake of Peace, Tom initiated a walk across the aisle, to reach a few in our group, followed by Margie. Afterwards, the group mentioned how they appreciated the gesture, when one couple said, “We’re Lutherans!” That gave us all a good laugh, and became a running joke throughout the trip.
Afterward, we hiked up the steps to La Rocka, a peaceful hilltop garden with a 14th century fortress surrounded with olive groves. Did we mention that we had our first day of “drizzle” so far during the trip? Although this hilltop is known for scenic picture-taking over an outstanding valley, the day’s overcast prevented clear pictures.
We retraced out path through the town square, and did some window shopping along the narrow street while enjoying our gelatos. We bought a couple souvenir postcards; then found a nice leather purse for Margie.. We are not usually shoppers, but we like to find original paintings of favorite places. We found such an oil reflecting a Tuscan hillside with grapevines and flowers; artist: Bruno Chrici, now hanging in the foyer in our home.
It was time to hustle down the hill to the meeting place where the coach would pick us up at 1:30. En route to the hotel, we had one short picture-taking stop looking back onto San Gimignano and the vineyards in the valley. We were happy that the sky was beginning to clear.
We had anticipated greater crowds in San Gimignano, and were surprised at how comfortably we could negotiate.
When we arrived in Colle de Valle de Elsa, we had not eaten lunch. The Pharmacia was closed probably, because it is Sunday, so we walked a quarter mile past the Hotel to a small pasticceria. We were happy to find one place still open after their “pranza’ (lunch) hours, and we each had a panino and a cappuccino for 7.20 EUR. We returned to our hotel room to write these notes and get clothes ready for tonight’s meal. Also, to nourish our colds with more vitamin C.
The coach was off at 5PM for a 45-minute long drive to Restorante Montebuoni, high up a mountain overlooking beautiful scenery. We needed to deboard the coach and squeeze into smaller mini-buses to climb to the top. The restaurant husband and wife owners met us as we arrived. We were greeted with a complimentary mimosa or a prosecco. The owner was the main chef; extremely outgoing, greeting all the people and hugging the women.
He demonstrated making risotto, which is a time-consuming process. After the initial steps when the ingredients are mixed in, Vincenzo joked that it would require 17 “Swiss minutes”, (as they refer to accurate timing in Italy) to cook. While waiting for the rice to rise, we utilized the time to go outdoors and take more pictures. The weather was perfect, as was the view overlooking the Tuscan hills.
The meal:: antipasto two kinds of salami, prosciutto, chicken mousse), ham, mushroom pate’ on bruschetta; primi of penne pasta noodles with bolognese sauce, risotto, some vegetables in a stew; secondi grilled skewers of pork, chicken, and sausage; dessert of ice cream atop fresh fruit; espresso coffee, and ample wine. A delicious, if filling, meal.
On the return drive to the hotel, we were again entertained with great old music from Saturday Night Fever, Time of my Life, My Way, Have I told you lately that I love you, Abba hits from Mama Mia; music provided by Vincenzo and the lights flickering on and off by Massimo, making for a fun, energetic ride. Return about 9:30 with the need to pack for another venture and another hotel.
MONDAY, OCTOBER 2, 2017
Off by 8 AM to Florence, about an hour’s drive. We were happy to have a scenic overview at Michelangelo Piazza for picture-taking. We recalled having a delightful meal at this location several years ago when we did a driving trip through Italy.
Moving down to the city proper of Florence, we met up with a local guide to walk through a few streets and learn the local history. We saw the Duomo and the Baptistry. Of course, this was another outstanding façade to make our list of faves. We were a bit disappointed to be visiting Florence on a Monday when the museums were closed.
After that initial tour of central Florence, we were led to a gold shop. Very expensive and not of interest to us. Then Vincenzo led the group to a leather store, which we thought would be like the little place suggested to us on a former trip by the owners of the hotel. Instead, it was quite an extensive store. Not our type. We were happy that we had purchased the leather purse in San Gimignano.
We were “on our own” until 2. We used the limited time for a leisurely lunch as we enjoyed overlooking the square of Santa Croce Church. We split a pizza and a salad along with a beer and wine (32.50 EUR) at the outdoor café, Osteria Battipalla. Not having enough time to visit any places of interest, like the San Lorenzo Church which contained some famous art works, we took our time for lunch. There were three different table changes on our right side and two on our left: German, Swiss, Australian from Tasmania, Naples, Florida, and another Australian couple, most having only a drink or a quick bite. We enjoyed the brief encounters.
Following lunch, we found an ATM in the square to replenish our EURs. A walk to the coach. and we were off to Lucca, just shy of an hour’s drive. We’ve been to Florence twice in the past where we spent several days each time, and we knew that this trip would give us only a partial day there. But still, we were a bit disappointed that we couldn’t explore at least some of the wonderful art in the city.
Arriving in Lucca, we were introduced to a local guide who met us at the impressive stone gate which leads into the quaint town. A notable feature of Lucca is its intact ancient wall which encircles miles of the old city. It is well-maintained, having a comfortable walkway on top of the wall, with lots of green grass and park area. It’s a wonderful outdoor exercise area for the town and a nice vantage point for visitors like us to appreciate it. But caution when walking the wall! Bicycles, skates, etc. are mixed in among many runners.
Atop the wall there is an amazing view of the city. In Lucca, as in other Tuscan towns, there was competition to have the highest tower. The height of the tower was believed to give prestige to the person building it. Wealthy families would construct these as status symbols. In order to achieve the highest in Lucca, a famous tower called the Torre Guinigbi, has an oak tree growing out of it, planted by the owner to capture the distinction.
One of its claims to fame is that it was the home of Puccini the composer. We were shown where he lived and how the 80-year-old grandmother gave Lucca the house where he grew up. There’s an impressive sculpture of Puccini in a small square.
We were treated to the special raisin/anise bread called buccellaro and following that break, there was time to explore the central piazza of Lucca. We found a small café for a cappuccino while we watched the activity in the square as the Italian “la passeggiuta”” was in effect. This custom is an evening ritual in many Italian cities where the residents dress up to gather and stroll in the squares and streets to talk with their friends and enjoy drinks together. This is especially popular on Sunday evenings.
Following that break, we crossed the square and made a short visit to the St. Michael’s Duomo in the main square. Originally built in 795 over the ancient forum, the large façade, which was rebuilt in the 13th century, has St. Michael, flanked by two angels, at its summit.
We arrived at our hotel, Villa La Principessa, about 6:15 PM and found our suitcases already present outside our rooms. We were invited to meet for a complimentary happy hour at the restaurant bar, followed by a meal. The hotel is a nice old place with a beautiful setting. The meal: a salad and tasty risotto was good. Then followed an entrée of pork, green beans, and potatoes, capped off with dessert and cappuccino.
Following the meal, we were happy to return to our room and utilize the new stock of cold medicine and vitamin C found at a Pharmacia in Lucca. In general, people are really tired and wanting to rest up as tomorrow is a big day in Cinque Terre on coach, boat, train, and, of course, walking. We’re glad that we were in Villa La Principessa for two nights.
TUESDAY, OCTOBER 3, 2017
CINQUE TERRE DAY
We’re off to Cinque Terre by 8 AM, approximately an hour’s drive. Leaving Lucca, we began our picture-taking of the lush green mountains. The scenery looked like a perfect water color. Soon we passed the commercial area, a huge defense manufacturing area where Italy makes tanks and other military equipment. It was bombed out during WWII. As we moved on, the scenery became more attractive as the shipping harbor of La Spezia came into view. Following our boat excursion on the Cinque Terre, we would return by train to La Spezia.
After departing from the coach in the parking area in Manarola, one of the towns of the Cinque Terre, it was quite a long walk, thankfully mostly downhill, to the city center and the site of the boat dock. Again, all was well-timed. Tickets were provided and within a few minutes we were on the boat to enjoy the sites of the Cinque Terre cities built into the hillsides.
We were again able to secure seats on the front open deck of the boat. The weather was by now overcast, and the threat of light rain may have discouraged others from sitting outside. But we enjoyed it. . .and never got wet. After leaving Manarola, we passed Corniglia, whose beach we had enjoyed on a previous visit, made a stop at Vernazza, and then landed at Monterossa. It was fun enjoying the outdoor ride on the front of the boat!
One notable feature of the Cinque Terre is the miles of vineyards built into the steep hillsides. Working in these vineyards is extremely taxing on the body, as the rock steps are steep and uneven, and the rows of vines growing on the steep hillsides require constant attention to maintain. There are rudimentary pulleys to assist in lifting heaving materials up the mountainsides, but the people still must climb and straddle the hills.
We had a couple of hours in Monterossa to explore the town, shop and have lunch. We enjoyed outdoor seating at Pizzaria Tratt la Marina in Monterosso al Mare: two beers, ravioli for Margie and lobster on flat spaghetti noodles for Tom, with cappuccinos (44 EUR). Mutual efforts were made by us and a German couple seated next to us to communicate. It was a friendly encounter.
With the time we had left, Tom found a great gelato place for his dessert as we enjoyed our last look of the waterfront in Monterossa.
The boarding dock for the train was up one level. Within a couple of minutes, we were boarded and en route to La Spezia, passing the above Cinque Terre cities in reverse order, stopping briefly at each one. As we traveled about a half-hour to the station in LaSpezia where our coach was waiting, we had a nice discussion with Paola, the local tour guide, who was quite good and very likeable. Conversation with her was interesting and made the trip pass quickly.
Although we enjoyed the experience of the Cinque Terre from the water, the weather being a bit overcast made for less than ideal picture-taking opportunities.
Upon return to the hotel, we had a brief time to freshen up, and at 5:45 we boarded the coach for the evening wine tasting and meal.
The drive to Fattoria il Poggio was about 30-minutes. Following drinks, the meal began with an antipasto of prosciutto, salami and chicken liver mousse on bruschetta. Next was an ancient Roman grain soup that seemed closely akin to barley soup, and was quite tasty. The pasta pappardelle bolognese was wonderful. It’s one of our favorites! For the secondi, a huge piece of steak was placed for each group of 4 people to split. We were told that the dessert was church wine with biscotti which was to be dipped into the wine-a new experience for us.
Return on the coach was fun with Vincenzo finding “retro” songs, and people joining in the singing. Back at our Hotel by 9:30 PM. Needed to pack and be out early for a couple of stops before reaching Parma about 4 PM.
At this point, lots of people were fighting colds. Vincenzo bought some masks, hand sanitizer, etc., hoping to stem the tide. Our days were long, packed with activity, and involving a great deal of walking and climbing. Many people expressed their exhaustion. Good night before 11 PM.
In the morning we would be leaving Tuscany, heading east, circumventing Florence, and visiting some smaller towns of Emilia-Romagna.
Jan 7th, 2018, 08:27 PM
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WEDNESDAY, OCTOBER 4, 2017
Modena, Maranello, and Parma
“Andiamo” (“Let’s go”) had become the most frequently used Italian expression. At 8AM we were on the road, leaving Tuscany with its hilltop towns and rolling valleys, heading into the Emilia-Romanga region, considered Italy’s gastronomic heartland. We would be visiting a string of smaller historic cities: Modena, Maranello, and Parma.
Our journey had us driving from the Ligurian coast in the west toward the Adriatic in the east. The scenery on the drive was the surrounding Appenine Mountains, a range which runs from north to south and forms the physical backbone of peninsular Italy, and miles of the fertile, lush agricultural valleys. We saw miles of evergreen trees, and endless fields of nursery stock. Of special interest to us were the “white” mountains of Carrara, source for the white marble which has been mined since the quarries were set up by the Romans around the 9th Century BC. The city was built around it to house workers
.
We drove the “ring road” around Firenze and, of course, a wreck caused us a loss of ½ hour of time. Rush hour is the same all over!
Our first visit was to a balsamic vinegar plant in Modena. The first written record of this vinegar goes back to 1046 when the Holy Roman Emperor Henry III was given a silver bottle containing this special vinegar. Since that time, balsamic vinegar has been in wide use.
Monica, the plant guide, (a Celine Deon look-alike) was charming and had us sample 5-year, 6-year, 10-year, and 12-year aged balsamic vinegar. These various varieties were aged in small wooden tanks made of different types of wood such as oak, chestnut, or cherry, and are worth much money. She described the intricate process of fermentation, and the special certification agency in Italy.
We sampled each with a few drops on a plastic spoon, starting with sweeter and then became more like vinegar tasting. Of course, each balsamic goes best with various foods which are pointed out in a special cookbook they sell. We were surprised to taste ice cream being enhanced by adding balsamic to it.
After our orientation to the process and qualities of balsamic vinegar, we drove about 15 miles south to Maranello in what is dubbed “Motor Valley”. In the region are also the homes of other supercars like Maserati and Lamborghini.
The Ferrari Museum, which we visited, has been based in Maranello since the 1940s. Enzo Ferrari lived to be 90 (1898-1988). In 1947 he started manufacturing autos; cost ranges from 200-400, OOO EUR. We took photos of many of the “beauties, both sports’ cars and Grand Prix Formula Race cars. Tom had an interesting conversation with one of the museum employees. No one seemed willing to pay for experience of driving a sports’ car on the track outside the museum!
We walked around the three floors of gorgeous cars before exiting and heading a short way up the street to have lunch at an outdoor café, Bar Ristorante. Mariah and Mike sat in the sun at a table nearby ours which was in shade. Mariah chose the sun as she said that she liked the Vitamin D benefits. We talked all about their upcoming spring cruise.
For the meal, Tom had tortellini borghese, while Margie enjoyed her tortellini with spinach (40 EUR), including drinks. Our waiter was especially interesting as he was Cuban and played baseball; had tried to escape twice but was caught. He knew and had played ball with of Aroldis Chapman, a star National League pitcher on the NY Yankees; formerly on the Cincinnati Reds. He has a brother living in Houston, Texas, but rents an apartment in Maranello, the hometown of his wife. They cannot afford to buy a house in Italy.
Following lunch, our next stop was a return to food: a parmigiano-reggiano factory on the outskirts of Parma, the origin of the name of the cheese. We met Paulo, the owner and producer, in his cheese factory.
Upon entering, we had to don “surgical” outfits, including head nets, body suits, and shoe covers. The inside of the plant had rows of cheese circles stacked from floor to high ceiling. Paulo described all the steps which go into making the cheeses. Lots of milk is needed. His family owns 500 cows, but they need milk from 1500 for a batch, so they pay neighboring farmers.
Each day when the milk comes in, it is poured into large stainless-steel vats which stir the milk until it becomes a solid. Then it is aged in brine (soaks up water for a time) and the aging goes on and on. When aging, the chunks of cheese must be turned each day-quite a process. More of the steps were explained, and we were impressed with the process and the strict standards imposed.
We tasted the 1-year and the 2-year aged cheese, served with Lambrusco wine. Paulo’s family is five generations into this business. The family has its own small chapel on the property where the relatives are married, baptized, and where they are buried. The front room of the family’s house is a small store where cheese and prosciutto, another product of the area, can be purchased.
We realize that there’s more to Emilia Romagna than its food, and that the region has a rich artistic and architectural heritage. Bologna is its crown jewel which we’ll save for a future trip.
We continued to downtown Parma, used as our stop-over evening before moving on to Verona and Venice the following day. Star Hotels du Parc is very nice…seemed like an American hotel. We arrived around 6 PM, which was later than Vincenzo had planned. There was not much around the hotel but for a grocery store across the street where people could bring food to their rooms or a cafe next door to the supermarket. It was possible to take a 15-minute walk through a park to arrive at the city downtown area where restaurants could be found.
Normally, we do not choose to eat in a hotel. But after the busy day, we decided to eat in the lovely hotel restaurant. We were among the first arrivals and were seated in beautiful private little corner, which was perfect for us. Margie’s 6 EUR glass of sangiovese wine a glass with her veal and potatoes were excellent; and, of course, Tom wanted a sample. Tom had a bottle of beer which was a little too hoppy for him, and ravioli. The “12-minute dessert” chocolate soufflé with sorbet and raspberry sauce took more than ½ hour, but was delicious. We finished with our typical cappuccinos (61 euros).
After our meal, we returned to our room to weigh our luggage, planning to be within the 50-pound limit. We needed to re-locate items and weigh them for our departure on Saturday. There was early departure in the morning, and hence, limited sleep. Our destination was Venice, with a short visit to Verona en route.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2017
VENICE via a short visit to Verona
Off to Verona by 8 AM, a two-hour drive from Parma. Verona is a cultured city with lots of opera and the location of Romeo and Juliet’s balcony which we visited via Vincenzo’s leadership. The small courtyard area was full of tourists because this is a featured attraction for many to visit in Verona.
An outstanding site in Verona is the amphitheater where operas are held.
We arrived around 11 AM and had “free” time until 12:45 when we met at the square. Verona has attractive walking streets, cobblestoned, with beautiful shops. We opted to have a lunch of salami and cheese pizza, along with beer and wine (22 euros), and utilized our time to explore the beautiful shops.
Once on the coach, it was another hour or so to Venice. This was the last time we would see our driver, Massimo, as all our transportation in Venice would be by boat. We said our farewells to our fabulous driver, and were off to the boat dock with our backpacks to hop the vaporettos to travel the canals to our Hilton Hotel for a 2-day stay.
It was about 4 PM when we arrived at our Hilton Hotel Molina on the nearby island of Giudecca. We had a little time to refresh as we waited for our luggage. We dressed for dinner, and By 5:30 we were off on another boat to go to the “big island”: San Marco.
After exiting the boat, we walked quite a distance as Vincenzo pointed out the many highlights: the doge’s palace, other significant buildings, churches including the “Vivaldi church” so-called by us because the composer lived behind it, and the highlight of all: San Marco’s Basilica in the large square.
We arrived at our lovely restaurant Taverna La Fenice, where we had our final farewell meal. The restaurant is tucked in a back street next to the entrance of a performance theater. The interior has a beautiful Italian décor. We again sat with Graham and Raelene; they were great company. Our meal was a tasty Barolo wine beef fillet with porcini mushrooms and potato timbale with a nice wine pairing. Dessert followed.
After the meal, we walked to the Piazza San Marco. Here we enjoyed a glass of wine and the orchestra music at the popular Café Florian, a café’ which has been in existence since 1720, and is said to be the oldest café’ in the world.
Seated outside in San Marco Square, which at this time was uncrowded, we enjoyed an outstanding view of the floodlighted San Marco Basilica. Raelene and Graham, our professional dancers, accompanied the orchestra’s playing of “New York, New York”. Even though they’re Aussies, they like dancing to this song.
We were rushed a bit to board eight people each in four boats for our long, scenic ride to our Hilton Hotel. We traveled the Grand Canal, as well as smaller canals. With the gorgeous lighting, we could appreciate all the elegant apartments along the way. It was about 10 PM when we returned. George Clooney certainly picked a romantic city in which to get married!
Before turning in, we went to the 8th floor Skyline Venice Rooftop Bar for another beer and wine (20 euros). We could sleep in a bit in the morning as we didn’t take off until 9 AM. This was appreciated, especially by Margie who was still fighting a cold.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2017
Final Day in Venice: Murano glass factory; San Marco Square; Gondola ride; Burano visit
As we waited for the boat to arrive at the Hilton dock, we spoke with another tour guest, Pat, who told us she had meds if needed. Ours had run out. Pat had a bottle of Aleve Cold and Sinus Complete which she shared with Margie. It was more than helpful to ward off some misery during the day.
We were off at 9 AM on a large boat to the island where the Murano Glass factory is located. The group had a demo of a guy blowing glass into shapes: we witnessed a vase and a horse. Then we had a long but excellent explanation about the quality, history, and beauty of their thousand-year-craft. One detail of interest to us was that contrary to the glass blowing that we had witnessed several years back where actual hot fires were used, they now use ovens.
The glass works are gorgeous, and, of course, very expensive. We still have a piece from a former trip, so we resisted the temptation to purchase anything.
Then we caught another boat ride up and down the canals to San Marco Square for more guided touring as we headed to St. Mark’s Basilica. Vincenzo had purchased “Skip the line” tickets for us, so we entered almost immediately. Interesting that the square was experiencing some flooding due to the high-water table, necessitating the building of a temporary ramp onto the cathedra portico. We had no audio tour, just the opportunity to experience the interior of this gorgeous cathedral.
Then a fun thing to do: gondola rides for all…6 to a boat; we joined Mike and Mariah, and John and Pat. Vincenzo chose a boarding spot at a calm back-water location; but the line was longer than usual, so we probably stood in line for 45 minutes. Vincenzo even hired a separate gondola with a singer and an accordion player providing musical accompaniment. Another beautiful day, so we were able to catch the main sights along the canals. Nice gondola experience! Fun going through canals with no effort.
We learned that gondolas, which are very well-engineered and appointed, are 11 meters long (almost the length of our coach) and cost in the 40,000 dollar range.
We met at the famous Lion Column (lion is a symbol of St. Mark) and boarded another boat for Burano Island, about a 40-minute ride. Being on several boats, it was interesting to discover so many of the islands from the water.
Burano is at the northern end of the Venetian Lagoon. It, too, is made up of four canals connected by bridges. Burano is an attractive city with multi-colored houses lining the streets. Many artists choose to live in Burano. It’s not as busy or crowded with tourists as is San Marco square. Its main attraction is its lacemaking.
We had lunch at a corner café where all the action was located. We sat with our Philippino friends, and enjoyed risotto, salad, fried calamari and shrimp, and spaghetti with tomato sauce. Following lunch, Margie bought a couple of scarves for 28 EUR each.
On the return boat ride, we had to decide if we would disembark at San Marco square or ride on to the Hilton Hotel. After bidding farewell to the group, we disembarked at San Marco Square for a cappuccino and a brief shopping walk along the front street near the “unification” statue (a name given to any statue of Victor Emmanuel or his son). We visited the interior of the “Vivaldi Church.” just in time before the gate was closed to visitors to allow the patrons of the evening’s concert to enter. Margie found a “poncho” for 15 EUR.
Suddenly the overcast turned into a drizzle. We consulted the schedule for the free Hilton boat which we learned left the area at 6:20. With only a few minutes until that time, we decided to forego our plans to visit the Doge's Palace or other plans we had for San Marco Square and head back to our hotel. The rain had made our decision.
We decided on a light meal in the hotel restaurant. We needed to do final packing, and then be up at 5AM in the morning for the early speedboat transfer to the Venice Airport. Vincenzo had arranged for an early breakfast.
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2017
Farewell Day!
A quick breakfast, but with good crisp bacon, something we have missed during our travels in Italy, and then it was off to the Venice Airport in a beautiful speedboat. Vincenzo was there to bid us farewell and make sure that all our luggage was on the boat.
We were fortunate to have a beautiful morning to enjoy the rising sun. This was our first experience traveling to an airport by boat. As we departed, we recalled what Vincenzo had said about Venice, “Oversold, overpriced, but not overrated.”
We reached the airport in about 25 minutes, record time.The driver assisted us by hoisting the luggage out of the boat. Vincenzo’s instructions were clear. Take an elevator to the main floor, check the board for your flight time, etc., and then do an “Italian short walk” to your terminal.
When we stopped to use the restroom, we met a nice young guy, a vet as in veterinarian, originally from Romania, who now lives in Bristol, England. His girlfriend is a neurologist. We had an interesting discussion about Brexit, religions, etc. before we had to be on our way.
Then it was off to our Gate to get seat assignments for the short flight on AF to Paris. (Our tickets were booked on Delta but the carrier was AF.) We were in line before the gate opened and were told that the flight was over-booked. Some tense moments. Tom found a helpful gate agent who helped him get us seat assignments. Though not together, we were happy just to have the seats. As it turned out, Margie’s seat by the window facing north allowed her to get a great view of the Alps, and shoot some wonderful pics. “Arrivederci, Italia!”
Although we love the city of Paris, we don’t share that love with CDG. The sprawl of the airport, complete with crowded lines for the shuttles, had us running and just making our non-stop return flight. We felt relieved and settled in for the return flight home.
Once arriving in CVG, we remember well the drill of going through immigration, collecting our luggage and moving through customs, and finally claiming our luggage in baggage claim. To have our pre-arranged Shuttle waiting for us was a welcoming feeling.
We were arriving home in October, noticing that the peak of color from the summer flowers was fading. But the green lawns and the turning leaves made up for it.
We were exhausted from an action-packed, and fun-filled trip to Italy. But we felt energized, enlivened, and enriched from all the wonderful experiences. We were happy to be home and allow the memories to sink in as we jumped back into reality.
Thanks to all for following along on this extensive report!
Modena, Maranello, and Parma
“Andiamo” (“Let’s go”) had become the most frequently used Italian expression. At 8AM we were on the road, leaving Tuscany with its hilltop towns and rolling valleys, heading into the Emilia-Romanga region, considered Italy’s gastronomic heartland. We would be visiting a string of smaller historic cities: Modena, Maranello, and Parma.
Our journey had us driving from the Ligurian coast in the west toward the Adriatic in the east. The scenery on the drive was the surrounding Appenine Mountains, a range which runs from north to south and forms the physical backbone of peninsular Italy, and miles of the fertile, lush agricultural valleys. We saw miles of evergreen trees, and endless fields of nursery stock. Of special interest to us were the “white” mountains of Carrara, source for the white marble which has been mined since the quarries were set up by the Romans around the 9th Century BC. The city was built around it to house workers
.
We drove the “ring road” around Firenze and, of course, a wreck caused us a loss of ½ hour of time. Rush hour is the same all over!
Our first visit was to a balsamic vinegar plant in Modena. The first written record of this vinegar goes back to 1046 when the Holy Roman Emperor Henry III was given a silver bottle containing this special vinegar. Since that time, balsamic vinegar has been in wide use.
Monica, the plant guide, (a Celine Deon look-alike) was charming and had us sample 5-year, 6-year, 10-year, and 12-year aged balsamic vinegar. These various varieties were aged in small wooden tanks made of different types of wood such as oak, chestnut, or cherry, and are worth much money. She described the intricate process of fermentation, and the special certification agency in Italy.
We sampled each with a few drops on a plastic spoon, starting with sweeter and then became more like vinegar tasting. Of course, each balsamic goes best with various foods which are pointed out in a special cookbook they sell. We were surprised to taste ice cream being enhanced by adding balsamic to it.
After our orientation to the process and qualities of balsamic vinegar, we drove about 15 miles south to Maranello in what is dubbed “Motor Valley”. In the region are also the homes of other supercars like Maserati and Lamborghini.
The Ferrari Museum, which we visited, has been based in Maranello since the 1940s. Enzo Ferrari lived to be 90 (1898-1988). In 1947 he started manufacturing autos; cost ranges from 200-400, OOO EUR. We took photos of many of the “beauties, both sports’ cars and Grand Prix Formula Race cars. Tom had an interesting conversation with one of the museum employees. No one seemed willing to pay for experience of driving a sports’ car on the track outside the museum!
We walked around the three floors of gorgeous cars before exiting and heading a short way up the street to have lunch at an outdoor café, Bar Ristorante. Mariah and Mike sat in the sun at a table nearby ours which was in shade. Mariah chose the sun as she said that she liked the Vitamin D benefits. We talked all about their upcoming spring cruise.
For the meal, Tom had tortellini borghese, while Margie enjoyed her tortellini with spinach (40 EUR), including drinks. Our waiter was especially interesting as he was Cuban and played baseball; had tried to escape twice but was caught. He knew and had played ball with of Aroldis Chapman, a star National League pitcher on the NY Yankees; formerly on the Cincinnati Reds. He has a brother living in Houston, Texas, but rents an apartment in Maranello, the hometown of his wife. They cannot afford to buy a house in Italy.
Following lunch, our next stop was a return to food: a parmigiano-reggiano factory on the outskirts of Parma, the origin of the name of the cheese. We met Paulo, the owner and producer, in his cheese factory.
Upon entering, we had to don “surgical” outfits, including head nets, body suits, and shoe covers. The inside of the plant had rows of cheese circles stacked from floor to high ceiling. Paulo described all the steps which go into making the cheeses. Lots of milk is needed. His family owns 500 cows, but they need milk from 1500 for a batch, so they pay neighboring farmers.
Each day when the milk comes in, it is poured into large stainless-steel vats which stir the milk until it becomes a solid. Then it is aged in brine (soaks up water for a time) and the aging goes on and on. When aging, the chunks of cheese must be turned each day-quite a process. More of the steps were explained, and we were impressed with the process and the strict standards imposed.
We tasted the 1-year and the 2-year aged cheese, served with Lambrusco wine. Paulo’s family is five generations into this business. The family has its own small chapel on the property where the relatives are married, baptized, and where they are buried. The front room of the family’s house is a small store where cheese and prosciutto, another product of the area, can be purchased.
We realize that there’s more to Emilia Romagna than its food, and that the region has a rich artistic and architectural heritage. Bologna is its crown jewel which we’ll save for a future trip.
We continued to downtown Parma, used as our stop-over evening before moving on to Verona and Venice the following day. Star Hotels du Parc is very nice…seemed like an American hotel. We arrived around 6 PM, which was later than Vincenzo had planned. There was not much around the hotel but for a grocery store across the street where people could bring food to their rooms or a cafe next door to the supermarket. It was possible to take a 15-minute walk through a park to arrive at the city downtown area where restaurants could be found.
Normally, we do not choose to eat in a hotel. But after the busy day, we decided to eat in the lovely hotel restaurant. We were among the first arrivals and were seated in beautiful private little corner, which was perfect for us. Margie’s 6 EUR glass of sangiovese wine a glass with her veal and potatoes were excellent; and, of course, Tom wanted a sample. Tom had a bottle of beer which was a little too hoppy for him, and ravioli. The “12-minute dessert” chocolate soufflé with sorbet and raspberry sauce took more than ½ hour, but was delicious. We finished with our typical cappuccinos (61 euros).
After our meal, we returned to our room to weigh our luggage, planning to be within the 50-pound limit. We needed to re-locate items and weigh them for our departure on Saturday. There was early departure in the morning, and hence, limited sleep. Our destination was Venice, with a short visit to Verona en route.
THURSDAY, OCTOBER 5, 2017
VENICE via a short visit to Verona
Off to Verona by 8 AM, a two-hour drive from Parma. Verona is a cultured city with lots of opera and the location of Romeo and Juliet’s balcony which we visited via Vincenzo’s leadership. The small courtyard area was full of tourists because this is a featured attraction for many to visit in Verona.
An outstanding site in Verona is the amphitheater where operas are held.
We arrived around 11 AM and had “free” time until 12:45 when we met at the square. Verona has attractive walking streets, cobblestoned, with beautiful shops. We opted to have a lunch of salami and cheese pizza, along with beer and wine (22 euros), and utilized our time to explore the beautiful shops.
Once on the coach, it was another hour or so to Venice. This was the last time we would see our driver, Massimo, as all our transportation in Venice would be by boat. We said our farewells to our fabulous driver, and were off to the boat dock with our backpacks to hop the vaporettos to travel the canals to our Hilton Hotel for a 2-day stay.
It was about 4 PM when we arrived at our Hilton Hotel Molina on the nearby island of Giudecca. We had a little time to refresh as we waited for our luggage. We dressed for dinner, and By 5:30 we were off on another boat to go to the “big island”: San Marco.
After exiting the boat, we walked quite a distance as Vincenzo pointed out the many highlights: the doge’s palace, other significant buildings, churches including the “Vivaldi church” so-called by us because the composer lived behind it, and the highlight of all: San Marco’s Basilica in the large square.
We arrived at our lovely restaurant Taverna La Fenice, where we had our final farewell meal. The restaurant is tucked in a back street next to the entrance of a performance theater. The interior has a beautiful Italian décor. We again sat with Graham and Raelene; they were great company. Our meal was a tasty Barolo wine beef fillet with porcini mushrooms and potato timbale with a nice wine pairing. Dessert followed.
After the meal, we walked to the Piazza San Marco. Here we enjoyed a glass of wine and the orchestra music at the popular Café Florian, a café’ which has been in existence since 1720, and is said to be the oldest café’ in the world.
Seated outside in San Marco Square, which at this time was uncrowded, we enjoyed an outstanding view of the floodlighted San Marco Basilica. Raelene and Graham, our professional dancers, accompanied the orchestra’s playing of “New York, New York”. Even though they’re Aussies, they like dancing to this song.
We were rushed a bit to board eight people each in four boats for our long, scenic ride to our Hilton Hotel. We traveled the Grand Canal, as well as smaller canals. With the gorgeous lighting, we could appreciate all the elegant apartments along the way. It was about 10 PM when we returned. George Clooney certainly picked a romantic city in which to get married!
Before turning in, we went to the 8th floor Skyline Venice Rooftop Bar for another beer and wine (20 euros). We could sleep in a bit in the morning as we didn’t take off until 9 AM. This was appreciated, especially by Margie who was still fighting a cold.
FRIDAY, OCTOBER 6, 2017
Final Day in Venice: Murano glass factory; San Marco Square; Gondola ride; Burano visit
As we waited for the boat to arrive at the Hilton dock, we spoke with another tour guest, Pat, who told us she had meds if needed. Ours had run out. Pat had a bottle of Aleve Cold and Sinus Complete which she shared with Margie. It was more than helpful to ward off some misery during the day.
We were off at 9 AM on a large boat to the island where the Murano Glass factory is located. The group had a demo of a guy blowing glass into shapes: we witnessed a vase and a horse. Then we had a long but excellent explanation about the quality, history, and beauty of their thousand-year-craft. One detail of interest to us was that contrary to the glass blowing that we had witnessed several years back where actual hot fires were used, they now use ovens.
The glass works are gorgeous, and, of course, very expensive. We still have a piece from a former trip, so we resisted the temptation to purchase anything.
Then we caught another boat ride up and down the canals to San Marco Square for more guided touring as we headed to St. Mark’s Basilica. Vincenzo had purchased “Skip the line” tickets for us, so we entered almost immediately. Interesting that the square was experiencing some flooding due to the high-water table, necessitating the building of a temporary ramp onto the cathedra portico. We had no audio tour, just the opportunity to experience the interior of this gorgeous cathedral.
Then a fun thing to do: gondola rides for all…6 to a boat; we joined Mike and Mariah, and John and Pat. Vincenzo chose a boarding spot at a calm back-water location; but the line was longer than usual, so we probably stood in line for 45 minutes. Vincenzo even hired a separate gondola with a singer and an accordion player providing musical accompaniment. Another beautiful day, so we were able to catch the main sights along the canals. Nice gondola experience! Fun going through canals with no effort.
We learned that gondolas, which are very well-engineered and appointed, are 11 meters long (almost the length of our coach) and cost in the 40,000 dollar range.
We met at the famous Lion Column (lion is a symbol of St. Mark) and boarded another boat for Burano Island, about a 40-minute ride. Being on several boats, it was interesting to discover so many of the islands from the water.
Burano is at the northern end of the Venetian Lagoon. It, too, is made up of four canals connected by bridges. Burano is an attractive city with multi-colored houses lining the streets. Many artists choose to live in Burano. It’s not as busy or crowded with tourists as is San Marco square. Its main attraction is its lacemaking.
We had lunch at a corner café where all the action was located. We sat with our Philippino friends, and enjoyed risotto, salad, fried calamari and shrimp, and spaghetti with tomato sauce. Following lunch, Margie bought a couple of scarves for 28 EUR each.
On the return boat ride, we had to decide if we would disembark at San Marco square or ride on to the Hilton Hotel. After bidding farewell to the group, we disembarked at San Marco Square for a cappuccino and a brief shopping walk along the front street near the “unification” statue (a name given to any statue of Victor Emmanuel or his son). We visited the interior of the “Vivaldi Church.” just in time before the gate was closed to visitors to allow the patrons of the evening’s concert to enter. Margie found a “poncho” for 15 EUR.
Suddenly the overcast turned into a drizzle. We consulted the schedule for the free Hilton boat which we learned left the area at 6:20. With only a few minutes until that time, we decided to forego our plans to visit the Doge's Palace or other plans we had for San Marco Square and head back to our hotel. The rain had made our decision.
We decided on a light meal in the hotel restaurant. We needed to do final packing, and then be up at 5AM in the morning for the early speedboat transfer to the Venice Airport. Vincenzo had arranged for an early breakfast.
SATURDAY, OCTOBER 7, 2017
Farewell Day!
A quick breakfast, but with good crisp bacon, something we have missed during our travels in Italy, and then it was off to the Venice Airport in a beautiful speedboat. Vincenzo was there to bid us farewell and make sure that all our luggage was on the boat.
We were fortunate to have a beautiful morning to enjoy the rising sun. This was our first experience traveling to an airport by boat. As we departed, we recalled what Vincenzo had said about Venice, “Oversold, overpriced, but not overrated.”
We reached the airport in about 25 minutes, record time.The driver assisted us by hoisting the luggage out of the boat. Vincenzo’s instructions were clear. Take an elevator to the main floor, check the board for your flight time, etc., and then do an “Italian short walk” to your terminal.
When we stopped to use the restroom, we met a nice young guy, a vet as in veterinarian, originally from Romania, who now lives in Bristol, England. His girlfriend is a neurologist. We had an interesting discussion about Brexit, religions, etc. before we had to be on our way.
Then it was off to our Gate to get seat assignments for the short flight on AF to Paris. (Our tickets were booked on Delta but the carrier was AF.) We were in line before the gate opened and were told that the flight was over-booked. Some tense moments. Tom found a helpful gate agent who helped him get us seat assignments. Though not together, we were happy just to have the seats. As it turned out, Margie’s seat by the window facing north allowed her to get a great view of the Alps, and shoot some wonderful pics. “Arrivederci, Italia!”
Although we love the city of Paris, we don’t share that love with CDG. The sprawl of the airport, complete with crowded lines for the shuttles, had us running and just making our non-stop return flight. We felt relieved and settled in for the return flight home.
Once arriving in CVG, we remember well the drill of going through immigration, collecting our luggage and moving through customs, and finally claiming our luggage in baggage claim. To have our pre-arranged Shuttle waiting for us was a welcoming feeling.
We were arriving home in October, noticing that the peak of color from the summer flowers was fading. But the green lawns and the turning leaves made up for it.
We were exhausted from an action-packed, and fun-filled trip to Italy. But we felt energized, enlivened, and enriched from all the wonderful experiences. We were happy to be home and allow the memories to sink in as we jumped back into reality.
Thanks to all for following along on this extensive report!
Jan 8th, 2018, 06:19 AM
#25
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 1,362
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Adelaidean, thanks for hanging in there with our several long sections as we were rushing to complete our TR, unsure of what the new format would be. No time to make final corrections!
Jan 8th, 2018, 07:16 AM
#26
"The owner of Zeppelin’s Restaurant (apparently, he’s a fan of Led’s music)"
Did you climb the Stairway to Heaven or were you Dazed and Confused? Glad you had a Whole Lotta Love for the restaurant.
Kim wonders if you saw Diane Lane in Cortona...he has a secret mad crush on her (not so secret anymore).
Great report. Looking forward to Bella Italia, but not until after Xavier wins the national championship
Did you climb the Stairway to Heaven or were you Dazed and Confused? Glad you had a Whole Lotta Love for the restaurant.
Kim wonders if you saw Diane Lane in Cortona...he has a secret mad crush on her (not so secret anymore).
Great report. Looking forward to Bella Italia, but not until after Xavier wins the national championship
Jan 8th, 2018, 03:49 PM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2008
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Dazed and Confused-that's us half of the time!
No Diane Lane sighting in Cortona. No doubt your friends have seen her seen her in the more recent Paris Can Wait.
We've got our fingers crossed for Xavier. Villa Nova next!
We're excited for you guys going to Bella Italia. We loved our trip and would be ready to return this year. But Spain is already in the cards.
No Diane Lane sighting in Cortona. No doubt your friends have seen her seen her in the more recent Paris Can Wait.
We've got our fingers crossed for Xavier. Villa Nova next!
We're excited for you guys going to Bella Italia. We loved our trip and would be ready to return this year. But Spain is already in the cards.
Jan 15th, 2018, 06:54 PM
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Adelaidean, in response to your previous comment about the cold temps keeping us indoors, we're now pretty much snowed in for a couple of days, having ample time to enjoy reminiscing about our experiences in sunny Italy. We're recalling our wonderful visit to OZ in Feb., 2010., although, unfortunately, we didn't make it to Adelaide. We hope that you're having a wonderful warm season. We'll stay tuned in for any future TRs from you.
Jan 16th, 2018, 07:10 AM
#29
"and then be up at 5AM in the morning for the early speedboat transfer to the Venice Airport."
We've done that a couple of times. Isn't Venice cool when you're seemingly the only people there that early? Well, except for the early morning thing. Gotta get back some day.
We've done that a couple of times. Isn't Venice cool when you're seemingly the only people there that early? Well, except for the early morning thing. Gotta get back some day.
Jan 16th, 2018, 04:30 PM
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Maitaitom, totally agree about the gorgeous early morning boat trip to the airport in Venice! We felt fortunate to have had a perfect sunrise. We had just two others in the boat with us. Just talking about it makes us want a return trip soon. So much to experience in Italia. Can imagine that you're getting excited just planning your trip. When are you going?
Jan 19th, 2018, 03:23 PM
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Tomarkot, I enjoyed reading your trip report. Wow!!! You definitely traveled to a lot of places and saw some beautiful stuff. You have a lot of energy. Right now I prefer independent travel, but as we get older, tours might appeal to me more. Sounds like you chose a good one! Where are you going in Spain?
Jan 20th, 2018, 06:23 PM
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Maitaitom, we're needing to diet now making up for our "gastronomic excesses" in Italy! Hope you have the same wonderful weather which we experienced. And we're hoping the same for our trip to Spain.
Adelaidean, Wow! 43 C! I like it hot. . .but not 43 C! Hope you get some real relief soon. No wonder those Switzerland Youtubes are extra appealing.
KarenWoo, there are pros and cons to each type of travel, and we think IAD. For all the time we save in planning, it works for us for some types of trips. So far, we've had first rate directors and guides, and have met some nice people.
In Spain, we're flying into Madrid, spending several days on our own before joining the tour. Then we're traveling to northern parts: cities such as Santiago de Compostela, Santander, and Saint Sebastian, ending in Barcelona where we will spend a few extra days. Since we will be on that northern coast, we're leaving in late August, hoping for OK weather. Do you have some travel plans on the horizon?
Thanks for following our TR!
Adelaidean, Wow! 43 C! I like it hot. . .but not 43 C! Hope you get some real relief soon. No wonder those Switzerland Youtubes are extra appealing.
KarenWoo, there are pros and cons to each type of travel, and we think IAD. For all the time we save in planning, it works for us for some types of trips. So far, we've had first rate directors and guides, and have met some nice people.
In Spain, we're flying into Madrid, spending several days on our own before joining the tour. Then we're traveling to northern parts: cities such as Santiago de Compostela, Santander, and Saint Sebastian, ending in Barcelona where we will spend a few extra days. Since we will be on that northern coast, we're leaving in late August, hoping for OK weather. Do you have some travel plans on the horizon?
Thanks for following our TR!
