ITALIAN ADVENTURES
September 19, 2017 to October 7, 2017

BACKGROUND:
Following a holiday trip to New York City to welcome in the New Year of 2017, plus a few other domestic trips, we began planning for late summer '17 European travels. Italy had been on our minds. Although we’ve visited this beautiful country in the past, including enjoying a three-week+ driving trip, we were aware of the time-consuming task of planning everything ourselves. Having had a good experience combining our interests with a tour in France in 2016, we decided to use the same plan for our travels in Italy. Although independent travel is the preferred mode for most Fodorites, we’ve found that by combining the conveniences of a tour with our ability to go off on our own, worked well for us for our last two European ventures.

With three weeks for our adventure, we envisioned a few days in Rome, a re-visit of other special places we loved, and an exploration of new areas. We would do the planning for our days in Rome. From there, we would rely on a tour which traveled the “Country Roads of Italy,” as it was called, to explore other regions: a re-visit of the Amalfi Coast, and explorations of areas in Umbria and Tuscany, the Cinque Terre, a short re-visit of Florence, and a finale in Venice. This was perfect for our goals for this trip.

In preparation for our trip, we appreciated information we gained from reading the TR’s of Fodorites.
Again, we experienced that despite much advance-preparation, international travel always involves the same endless tasks. But finally, our departure day, and ready or not, it was “Off to Roma and our Italian holiday.”

Our trip was mid-September into early October, 2017. As we’re finally writing this, it’s already 2018! We hope that some of you will come along to share our experiences from what turned out to be a wonderful Italian adventure: ancient, medieval, and renaissance history, art, and natural beauty galore, not to mention fantastic cuisine and wine.

Initially, we intended to do an abbreviated report. However, since we like to print our report with pictures imbedded for a keepsake book, we resorted to our longer form.


TRAVEL DAY: BUON VIAGGIO
TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 19, 2017

We had again pre-booked Executive Shuttle for a 10:00 AM pick-up for our 1:40 flight to Detroit (DTW) connecting to our 6:40 PM flight to ROME (FCO). John, the Executive Shuttle driver, arrived a few minutes after 10. Although the weather had been sunny, it began raining as we left, and came down harder as we go closer to our Cincinnati Airport (CVG). The time seemed to pass quickly as Tom discovered that he and John had gone to the same undergrad and grad schools, followed similar career paths, and knew many of the same people. Lots of banter back and forth during the rainy drive to CVG.

We arrived without traffic back-ups and were through airport security by 11:30, even with “suspicious looking” Margie getting a real “shakedown”, complements of TSA. We were glad to have a little downtime, sharing a McMuffin & coffee. The full Delta flight boarded on time, but once on the tarmac, the announced delay of possibly one-hour turned out to be fifteen minutes, and we were off for our 42-min. flight to Detroit.

A long walk through a tunnel-like area from our arrival in Terminal B to Terminal A was made more pleasant by Motown music and colorful wall murals and lights. As we entered Terminal A we experienced a ‘first” in an airport. . .a lounge with comfortable seating and piano music.
Time for a lunch at PF Chang’s where Crystal, our waitress, was informative about Detroit as she had a fondness and feel for the city. Following lunch, we did enjoy the piano lounge, before boarding at Gate A-40 around 6 PM.

“Economy Plus” seats were sold out, but we had two side-aisle seats. Except for the excessive sneezing and coughing from a man in the middle section, prompting usage of lots of Germ-X’s, we hunkered down for the 8 ½ hour flight to Roma, sitting like statues without room to organize and move in a healthy fashion. Such is the economy flight situation today.

We were prepared to lose 6 hours before arriving in Rome, as their time is that far ahead of ours. Snacks, even a beer and wine plus a light dinner and breakfast before landing, were not too helpful. Up to the restroom every couple of hours for leg circulation…Ugh!


ROME-4 Days

WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 20, 2017
BIENVENUTO, ROMA!

Upon landing, lots of walking to the immigration/customs area where each person must show their passport before picking up baggage (more walking). We were relieved to see that the Roma Shuttle service which we had pre-booked (thanks to a suggestion from a Fodorite) was very efficient. It was relieving to see our name among the 100 or more name signs shown as we walked out of baggage to the exit area.

The blue skies and sunshine were a welcoming feeling as we left the airport with Christolla, our Mercedes shuttle driver, for the 40 or more-minute drive to central Rome. Christolla was friendly, and with his limited English, pointed out a few landmarks and historical factors. We passed the basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, and determined that we would visit it on this trip. Shuttle cost: 50 EUR plus a 5 EUR tip.

Our Hotel San Carlo, a typical old Italian place, was on Via Del Carrozze, a small, cobblestone street in the heart of central Rome. Even though we arrived about 10:30 AM, our room #39 was ready, and Johnnie showed us the way. The elevator holds just two people, and upon arrival on the 3rd floor, the hallway winds around and up a few steps to our newly-renovated room.

We’re feeling fatigued and wanting a lunch, so we headed a few blocks up our little street toward the Spanish Steps (Piazza de Spagna). After an initial walk through the Piazza, we found an outdoor café, Estratto Conto, for a panini, and salad, a wine and a beer (26 EUR).

At lunch, we discussed using our first day to re-acquaint ourselves with Rome, having no certain agenda. We had some places of special interest grouped by location, but decided to just take the day as it came.

Jet lag was catching up, so after a few pix in the Spagna area, we walked to the closest Hop On-Hop Off bus loading area on Via Tritone. On this gorgeous day, the top deck of the bus seemed like a perfect way to get a good overview of the city. Even then, Tom had some trouble staying awake, but with Margie’s nudging, both of us were able to appreciate the main city sites. The battery in our new Lumia camera died…Ugh! But, fortunately, we had brought our little Canon, and were able to get a few shots.

The day was perfect to relax for a while on that top deck as we traversed the streets of central Rome. Seeing the sights such as the Coliseum, the Forum with the famous Arches, Palatine Hill, Circus Maximus, Castel San Angelo, and others, including the major churches, gave us the feeling of “déjà vu”. It was noticeable that traffic is no longer permitted on many streets in Rome, many are one-way, and that the areas around major sites have been fenced off.

Following that introductory bus tour, and re-energized from our lunch, we walked the streets toward the Trevi Fountain, taking in all the sights along the way. This beautifully sculptured fountain, fed by an old aqueduct, is oriented southward so that the sun always illuminates it. We hit it at a perfect time: lit by sunlight and with few visitors.

The fountain is considered one of the most important works of the late Baroque period. An architect Nicola Salvi had won a public competition to construct it. Apparently, the little piazza around it began attracting large crowds following the movie “Three Coins in the Fountain”. Before leaving Rome, we would do our coin toss.

From the Trevi Fountain, we headed toward the Pantheon area. Along the way we made several stops, one of which was Sant’Ignazio di Loyola (St Ignatius of Loyola) Church, another example of Baroque influence. In addition to the outstanding frescoes depicting the work of St. Ignatius and the Society of Jesus, done by a Jesuit brother, the surprise in the church was the “tromp l’oeil” dome and ceiling. Apparently, in the construction, the funds ran out. So, a Jesuit mathematician, a professor at the nearby Collegio Romano, created these beautiful works of art. One would never know that the ceiling is flat. In the aisle is a large mirror which allows the visitor to get a close-up view of the detail of the ceiling.

Following a short stop for cappuccino and cheesecake at Caffe Leonardo, we walked on to the Piazza near the Pantheon. We checked out the Albergo del Senato, a hotel facing the Pantheon, where many Fodorites have stayed. We had hoped to stay there, but it was completely booked six months in advance. Next time, perhaps!

From there, we walked the 60 meters up to Santa Maria Sopra Minerva Church, supposedly the only Gothic church in Rome. The exterior was under renovation. Our purpose was to view the Michelangelo statue of “Christ the Redeemer”, and in doing so, learned that there was so much more impressive art to view.

The little piazza and the church are an encapsulation of history. The church is built over a pagan Temple of Minerva, and an Egyptian obelisk sits on a Baroque elephant sculpture by Bernini. The exterior of the church is unimpressive. However, we learned that it has served as the headquarters of the Dominicans, and that Saint Catherine of Siena is said to be buried there. A Dominican priest was outside in the piazza with some neighborhood boys. Interesting local color was seeing the kids playing soccer in the piazza. Living in apartments, there is no other place to play.

It was just a short walk to the Pantheon to visit the inside of this great architectural wonder. Of all the ancient buildings, the Pantheon is Rome’s best-preserved monument. It causes one to marvel at how the Romans built such a mathematically-precise structure without computers, electricity, or modern-day machinery. The domes of many other significant buildings, including St. Peter’s Basilica and the United States Capitol, are modelled on the Pantheon. Several notable people, such as the artist Raphael and King Victor Emmanuel, the first king of the united Italy, are buried there. We felt fortunate to visit at a time when the crowds were thin.

Darkness came in Rome about 7:30, so we made use of an hour or more of daylight to enjoy dinner at a front row table of Café-Ristorante da Claudio on the Piazza Della Rotonda, looking directly at the Pantheon. We leisurely nursed our drinks and shared a beautiful carbonara. It was a pleasant time engaging with the restaurant “host” as he hustled people into this café.

Feeling fatigue after our first day of Roma exploration, we caught a taxi home. (11 EUR plus a 2 EUR tip). The driver didn’t know the tiny Via del Corrozze where the Hotel San Carlos was located, so we exited near the Spagna and walked another couple of blocks to our hotel. We arrived about 8:30 and needed to re-charge batteries-both camera and our own.

Jet lag day is difficult! We endured it as well as could be expected, and looked forward to the restful catch-up sleep. We felt fortunate to have a few more days to enjoy this wonderful city.



THURSDAY, SEPTEMBER 21, 2017

Great restorative 9 hours of sleep. Up after 7 and our first morning to test our packing organization to find clothes and other travel kits.

Breakfast was a European-style meal on the 4th floor roof garden. Nice atmosphere with greenery and flowers surrounding the perimeter. Yogurt, prosciutto, ham, cheese, fruit, croissants…all OK. The staff made cappuccinos for us-so much better than their “American” coffee. Small birds were freely entering and leaving the terrace as people left tables, and their crumbs remained. Usually a worker cleaned up quickly.

We were off to explore more of Roma. We walked past the Piazza di Spagna, which is symbolic of the area in which we are staying. The cobblestone street had narrow curbs, single-file only, as many streets in the old city do. Our goal was a visit to the Basilica di Sancta Maria Maggiore, one of the four major papal basilicas in Rome. Although that was our destination, one cannot walk the streets of Rome without being waylaid by so many interesting sights.

The Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore is a huge! ! Beautiful marble on the inside with columns around the main altar reminiscent of Bernini’s baldachino around St. Peter’s altar, but less massive; several side chapels about the size of an American church. We enjoyed the 5th century Biblical mosaics, and the large bell tower, as well as the medieval mosaics on the triumphal arch and in the loggia. The ceiling, decorated with gold said to be brought by Columbus from the new world, is spectacular. Here, as in so many places, we rely on our photos to enhance our memories.

After reaching our limit for taking in art, we felt the need for some sustenance. Spotting a café, we wandered across the circular street, careful to heed the traffic lights, and found a front row seat at an outside restaurant. We had a full view of the Basilica, from the Antico Caffe Santa Maria Piazza. A Romano pizza for Tom and a panini sandwich for Margie accompanied with beer and wine (35 EUR). Following lunch, we spotted an attractive café nearby, so we moved locations to imbibe some cappuccinos as an extra energy boost for our onward exploration.

We were off to Victor Emmanuel Monument (dubbed by many Italians “the wedding cake”) Our goal was to take in the view over Rome from the top terrace. (We had previously taken in the view from the cupola of St. Peter's.) En route, we again enjoyed an overview of the Coliseum, the Forum, and other famous sites.

Vitorio Emanuele II ,aka Victor Emmanuel ,was Italy’s first king, crowned in 1879 when Italy was united. He was followed by his son, Victor, and one more leader described as ineffective. Opinions of the monument are varied, but with its gleaming white stone, it is impressive.

Next to the monument, on the steps to Capitoline Hill, we engaged in an interesting conversation with a tour guide who was waiting for her group. We compared the political issues in the US with Berlusconi who is running for re-election in Italy.

We wouldn’t have time to enjoy museums on top of Capitoline Hill, so we decided to postpone a visit to a later time. In the area, one could see archeological remains. The Etruscans had been here in years BC. As our trip progressed, we would learn more about the Etruscans. For now, we would follow our plan to ascend to the top terrace of the Viktor Emmanuel monument.

We took the tip received from the tour guide about catching an elevator from the ground level to by-pass the 177 or so steps up to 5th floor where we could access the upper portico/overlook. The elevator operator explained that it was the second oldest elevator in Rome, and before the rule that an employee must control it, there was graffiti carved into the wooden interior.

We paid 7 EUR to ride their glass-sided elevator up to the very top of the monument for more pics and magnificent views. After spending some time taking in the views in different directions, and trying to identify different buildings and areas, Tom enjoyed some last looks and pics, while Margie got in the line for the elevator which was gradually getting longer. The small elevator held only nine passengers, so a long line meant a time-consuming descent. Restrooms were a floor down a bunch of other steps. This experience on the top of the Victor Emmanel Monument was Tom’s highlight of the day so far!

The sun was getting lower in the sky. From the Victor Emmanuel Monument, we headed to the grounds of Castel Sant ‘Angelo, originally constructed for Hadrian’s Tomb. In later years, a “connector tunnel” was constructed from the Vatican as an escape in case the life of the Pope was threatened. This was the period before the Vatican was a city, and Mussolini had the area under siege.

The bridge across the Tiber River to the Museum side was extremely crowded, but we managed to enjoy the views to the Vatican. Musicians added to the atmosphere, and after a gelato treat and a stroll past several souvenir stalls, and the impressive Court House, we walked on to the Piazza Navona.

Before entering the Piazza, we could view the ruins of the original entrance by looking down 25 ft. from the current street level. Built by the Emperor Domitian, it has been used since ancient times as a center of Roman life.

Stepping into the large cobblestone oval, used in Roman times for chariot races, the central fountain of Bernini is quite impressive, and is a focal point. The Piazza is surrounded with restaurants and shops, and in the midst, is the church of St Agnes, which we visited just before its closing.

Bernini is credited with remaking Rome in the Baroque style. All around Rome are fountains and sculptures created by him. Of the fountains, the Four Rivers Fountain in the center of Piazza Navona is his most famous. We spent some time admiring the intricacy in the fountain sculpture. Its name is derived from the four “river gods” which represent the four continents that were known in 1650. It is supported by a central obelisk which Bernini had moved from the Appian Way. Water gushes profusely on all sides. After enjoying the detail of the fountain, it was time for dinner.

We chose Caffe Barocco in the Piazza Navona and scored another great location in the front row, like our front row table last evening. facing the Pantheon. Apparently, the Piazza Navona is one of Rome’s most lively night scenes: street music, artists with their paintings displayed, etc. We could take in the entertainers while viewing Bernini’s Fountain as we shared a 375 ml of Chianti .
For our dinners, Margie chose canelloni ricotta e spina, while Tom had pappardelle con pancetta, both deliciosa. Then followed cappuccinos and cheese cake for dessert (64 EUR). The experience was delightful!

On this Wednesday evening, the Piazza Navona was comfortably peopled. Following dinner, we exchanged picture-taking and had a nice discussion with a Mexican couple from Mexico City. Their thoughts were on some relatives affected by the earthquake there. What a pleasure to meet these delightful people! . Piazza Navona was another highlight experience-a perfect ending to our day in Roma.

We had psyched out the taxi stands, so within five minutes we were on our return to the Hotel San Carlo. Again, the taxi driver seemed unsure of where to find San Carlo Hotel, located as it is on a very small street within a web of one-way streets. So, we again agreed to be let out at the Spagna.(10 EUR).

As we made our way back to our hotel, we enjoyed the lights and liveliness on our little street. Several cafes near our hotel seemed to be going strong, in keeping with the Italian tradition of late dinner.

We had a discussion with the receptionist about our check-out the following day and our plans to visit St. Paul’s Basilica, another of the four most important basilicas in Rome. She assured us that we could leave luggage in our room and that they would store it until we picked it up later. They would call a taxi for us.

Wow! Another busy day. What a remarkable difference with feeling rested after a good night’s sleep! To bed about 11:00.



FRIDAY, SEPTEMBER 22, 2017

Up at 7 and our final breakfast in the rooftop terrace. It’s check-out day, and we wished that we would have at least one more day to explore Rome on our own. What a city! Despite this being our 4th visit, there was still so much to discover and enjoy.

It was transition day to Hotel Veneto Palace to meet up with tour group in the evening. With luggage packed and stored, we were off to St. Paul’s Basilica Outside the Walls, via a cab called by Victoria, the hotel receptionist.

The Basilica of St. Paul was originally constructed in 380 AD. Many historians accept that the altar is built over the grave of St. Paul, who was decapitated two miles from this spot. St. Paul’s was the largest church in Christendom until St. Peter’s Basilica. A tragic 19th century fire destroyed much of St. Paul’s, but it was rebuilt in the same general style and size as the original.

The first thing that struck us was the atrium located in the exterior. It is made up of 150 columns, and from there one can see the façade of the Basilica covered by an enormous golden mosaic built between 1850 and 1870, which reflects the rays of sunlight. Margie shot a photo of Tom standing by a colossal statue of St. Paul in the center of the portico. The differential between the height of Tom and St. Paul demonstrates the enormous size of the statue.

The interior of the Bascilica of St. Paul is magnificent with enormous marble columns and gorgeous gold mosaics. High on the basilica’s walls are portraits of each of the popes, including the current Pope Francis. We paid 10 EUR for 2 headsets to explain so many details. It would take hours, probably several visits, to fully appreciate all the beautiful details of the basilica. One delight was seeing the mosaic dome over the altar spotlighted!

Unfortunately, with so much left unseen, it was time to depart. In our couple hours of exploration, we took in as much as possible. But realizing that the location is a good distance from our hotel, and that there are no taxi stands, we were aware of allowing time to find transportation back. By this time, lunch was on our minds.

To call a taxi, Tom called the number given, but it was impossible to understand the response as it was all in fast Italian. So, he solicited the help of a polizi. After his call, where a numbered taxi was assigned, we waited about ten minutes. The cost was about 20 EUR. We were dropped off at the Spagna, feeling satisfied that we had finally visited St. Paul’s.

We had our last look at the area around the Spanish Steps, today being much more peopled, possibly because it was a Friday, and the fact that college classes were beginning. We were glad that we had previously taken some photos, as today there were people sitting all along the edges of the fountain, and crowded on the steps. We decided to bid farewell to this over-crowded area, and found a convenient front row table at a café, Trattoria Gigi, on our street, Via Delle Carozze. We chose to share a bolognaise pasta with wine (42 EUR).

After that tasty lunch, it was time to move on. We enjoyed our stay at Hotel San Carlo, central to so much. We were not in Rome for shopping, but the area is a mecca for high-end merchandise.
From the restaurant, it was only a three-block walk to Hotel San Carlo.

Upon our return, the receptionist called a cab, which came in about 5 minutes. Within a short amount of time, we arrived at the Veneto Palace Hotel on Via Piemonte. The location was several blocks from Via Veneto, a beautiful tree-lined street with elegant hotels and restaurants.

Upon check-in at the Veneto Palace Hotel, the atmosphere was quiet. Quite a contrast from the lively neighborhood around the Hotel San Carlo! We later learned that we were among the last of the tour group to arrive. We met Vincenzo, our tour guide, who sat down with us to go over some info such as passport numbers, and filled us in on a few tour details. We immediately liked him, and looked forward to the trip under his leadership.

We wanted a cappuccino, and were disappointed that there are but one or two little places in the whole area around the hotel, and at this late afternoon hour, they were no patrons inside. No restaurants. We were glad that we had not stayed here for our first nights in Rome.

Borghese Gardens are nearby, and so after a brief stay in our room, we walked the half-mile up a hill to the Borghese Gallery area. We recalled our visit to the Gallery with its impressive Bernini sculptures as if it were last year. The gorgeous day made a park visit very inviting.

We met Brock, an employee of the Viator company, which we learned is now owned by Trip Advisor. Brock and two co-workers were filming segments for promotional material of a Viator-sponsored visit to the Borghese Museum. We found this very interesting, and enjoyed talking with Brock, as he is full of life and enthusiasm. We enjoyed the relaxation in this beautiful garden.

We returned to Hotel Veneto Palace for a 6 PM introduction and meal to start the tour. The dining room was smallish, with an L-shape, and stools instead of chairs. We met our driver Massimo, who said we could call him ‘Max”. But no one did. Vincenzo, our Tour Director, invited every couple and single to introduce themselves. We learned that our group was a mixture of Americans, Philippinos. Aussies, and Canadians.

After the meal, we readied to enjoy the night lights of Rome via a combo coach ride/walking tour with Vincenzo’s commentary, an experience we had eagerly anticipated. We took in the best evening views of main sites like St. Peter’s Basilica, the ColIseum and Forum, Capitoline Hill, and the Victor Emmanuel Monument.

One highlight was a view of St. Peter’s Bascilica from a bridge across the Tiber River near Castel Sant Angelo. On our own, we doubt we would have found it. Seeing the Vatican at night was amazing!

A second highlight was a visit to Capitoline Hill, one of the famous Seven Hills of Rome. We climbed the majestic Cordonata Stairs, designed by Michelangelo. At the top of this unique stairs is a large statue of Marcus Aurelius on his horse and three palazzos whose facades were also designed by Michelangelo. He died in 1564; it took his followers fifty years to complete the project.
The buildings are now museums that we would like to have visited. Again, time-constraints! But our nighttime visit to Capitoline Hill, with the lighting of the piazza and a walk to the rear overlook with spotlighting of the entire Forum, is memorable. Vincenzo provided so many interesting facts that we immediately felt the advantage of having a guide.

We returned to the Hotel Veneto Palace by about 10 PM. Time to shower and ready for the AM. Then it’s “Good Night”! Morning will come fast. We’re off to the Vatican, and we realize, from previous experience, that it’s necessary to arrive as early as possible.


SATURDAY, SEPTEMBER 23, 2017

Not much sleep. Breakfast opened at 6:30 AM. The goal was to be off to the Vatican by 7:30 AM to arrive by 8 AM and avoid the rush of the crowd as the day goes on. Upon our early arrival, we were met by Susanne, our local tour guide for the day.

Thanks to Susanne, it was an exceptional visit. The garden with the famous golden globe, called “A Sphere Within a Sphere”, was the meeting spot for our walk. Suzanne provided some orientation to the Vatican museums. After entry, which included going through a security checkpoint, we could take a back-spiral staircase, named the Bramante Staircase, after the artist who was a major architect of the Vatican.

By following Suzanne up this Bramante Staircase, we entered the museum at a point closer to the Sistine Chapel. As we explored the hallways of museum, Suzanne provided so much valuable information about the paintings, mosaics and tapestries. Even though this was our third visit to the Vatican, there is so much to take in and so much to learn. Going at this early hour enabled us to enjoy the museum in a more relaxed manner. One would need days to scratch the surface of all the great art.

Suzanne had described in detail a few highlight areas of the Sistine Chapel. She pointed out the highlights of creation and original sin, but then described the later painting on the wall behind the altar depicting how St Bartholomew was skinned alive, a repulsive fact which we had not known.

One noticeable difference in our visit was the quiet atmosphere inside the Sistine Chapel, compared with the noise of crowds we had experienced on our former 2007 visit. At that visit, the visitors paid no attention to the signs or to the ushers’ call for “Silence”, “Silencio," in several languages. The calmer atmosphere on this day made the visit more enjoyable.

After spending about a half-hour in the Sistine Chapel, we exited and wound around to enter St. Peter’s Basilica. With Suzanne, we toured some of the highlights of this magnificent structure and then had time to explore on our own. The ever-amazing Pieta by Michelangelo is, of course, still encased in bullet-proof glass after the attack by a deranged man. It’s still beautiful, but more difficult to appreciate the detail than when one could get up close to it. Of course, the Bernini balachino of the altar is always impressive. Just the immense size of the basilica is overwhelming! So much to take in! One could spend hours.

As we exited, we stepped out onto another of Bernini’s creations: St. Peter’s Square. It was constructed between 1656 and 1667, an elliptical-shaped square to accommodate up to 400,000 people. It has a semi-circular colonnade on each side, with statues of the patron saints, Peter and Paul, plus 140 other statues depicting popes, martyrs, and other important figures. In the center is a large Egyptian obelisk and fountains. We viewed the Wednesday audience podium being erected, and the papal apartment that faces the square where Pope Francis could live if he chose.

By now, the crowds had grown considerably. We hurriedly ate at some nearby cafeteria (il Colonnado Piazza del Saint Uffizio) (24 EUR), sharing a table with some lovely people from Columbia. The name of the game was “hurry” to use the restroom and meet outside at 1:45. Our motivation was to take advantage of the coach ride over to the Colosseum where many had booked a tour. Even though we had opted out of it, having already visited the Coliseum, we appreciated the transportation as we would be nearer the street leading to St. John Lateran Basilica.

We elected to hike up the long street to San Giovanni in Laterno (St John Lantern), the fourth of the major papal basilicas. Vincenzo was nice enough to walk with us from the coach parking to point out the most direct way to St. John Lateran.

Before tackling the long ascent, we stopped for a cappuccino. As we began the slog up the nearly mile-long gradual hill with uneven walking areas and the typical cobblestones, we realized how much walking we had already done in the Vatican since early morning.

St. John Lateran is dedicated to John the Baptist and John the Evangelist. It is the first among the four major basilicas of Rome, and the cathedral of the bishop of Rome, so it is known as an archbasilica. Built by Constantine in the 4th Century, it is the first church to be constructed in Rome, as Constantine legalized Christianity. It was consecrated in 324 AD. Like the other basilicas, it is huge.

At first, it was difficult to find the main entrance. We walked around the whole large structure.
Over its history, St. John Lateran has been through periods of destruction and re-building. Despite its many alterations, it still retains its original plan. Like so many other churches in Rome, the marble, the statues, the artistry, etc. are overwhelming. The large, impressive statues in the nave, dating from 1701-172, depict the Apostles and Evangelists. Tom posed by the statue of his namesake.

St. John Lateran is fronted by a huge piazza with gardens. One can picture the Pope and his whole retinue, including vehicles, approaching the basilica for significant events.

Fortunately, a taxi stand was within eyeshot. However, to reach it was quite a walk through the large piazza and garden, and then following the maze of crosswalks to conquer the large, busy roundabout and finally reach the taxi stand on the opposite side. Although we were thirsty, our fatigue was a greater motivator to catch a waiting cab to deliver us to our Veneto Palace Hotel.

Upon returning to the hotel, we stopped in the small bar area for a much appreciated Perino. That refreshing beer was followed by a short rest in our room. We would be leaving at 5:30 for a walking tour of main tourist areas of Rome, again led by Suzanne. We looked forward to this experience for our last evening in Roma.

The coach took us to within a few blocks of Trevi Fountain where we met Susanne for a walk to and through: Trevi Fountain, Pantheon and Navona Square. Along the route we stopped at several other interesting sites. We were happy that we had been to some of these areas on our own, earlier in the week, when the crowds were significantly less. But the commentary provided by Suzanne provided so many interesting details about all the areas.

The Trevi Fountain has been recently cleaned and looks magnificent. But the area was jam-packed with hundreds of tourists. It was not realistic to think you could get to the front row to toss your coins without wasting time and energy as people were stacked three rows deep at the water and then a huge crowd was milling around in the rear. It seemed that all of Rome was crowded into the small area surrounding it. Was it our imagination? On our last visit in 2007, we don’t remember such hordes of people. We made a quick toss of our coins into the fountain, hoping that it does bring us back to Roma. We used the opportunity to purchase a gelato, standing back behind the hordes to get a long shot of the fountain.

As we continued our walk, Suzanne continued to point out things of particular interest to us: the beautiful shopping mall which has been created in an ancient building, and the Trajan Pillar, constructed in 113 AD under the reign of the Emperor Trajan to commemorate his victories in wars fought to gain more territory for the Roman Empire. The spiral frieze that turns twenty-three times, is read from bottom to top. The statue of Trajan, which had been on top, was replaced with a statue of St. Peter in 1587 by Pope Sixtus V.

We wended our way to the Pantheon, taking a different route than we had followed two evenings before.. More new discoveries! It was noticeable that each major monument has a 2-man military personnel on hand with an armored truck, and that they each have an AW-15 in hand along with side weapons.

Viewing the oldest and best-preserved building from antiquity, it’s difficult to imagine that the Pantheon has been in use for over 2000 years, first as a pagan temple, and finally a church with the title of “Mary of the Martyrs”. We appreciated this second visit with Suzanne providing more details.

A young woman sang operatic selections near the fountain outside the Pantheon. We spotted our favorite PR guy at the restaurant we had enjoyed the other evening.

The finale stop was the Piazza Navona. While it’s easy to imagine chariot races being held in the huge oval of the piazza, it’s difficult to realize that in Roman days, because of a concave bottom, the whole piazza was artificially flooded and that naval battle games were conducted in the same space.
We chose to utilize our last evening in Roma to relax and take in the ambience of the Piazza Navona.

We returned to the same café we had visited the other evening, Café Barocco. Fortunately, we had sufficient time to leisurely enjoy our meal: imbibe Chianti, have an antipasto of melon-wrapped prosciutto, a tasty pasta dish and cap it off with cheesecake and cappuccino. Again, our front row seat enabled us to view the Bernini Fountain and all the activity in the Piazza. A perfect ending to our Roma visit!

We returned to the hotel about 9 PM. The following day’s departure was 8 AM. Destination: Sorrento by way of Pompeii.

Sounds like fun. Envious of your short 'long haul' flight

We went to Switzerland and Italy in September too, seems likes ages ago now...

Victor Em Mon.... also known as la dentiera ("the set of false teeth"), macchina da scrivere ("the typewriter") and la zuppa inglese ("English soup" dessert). ;-)

Thanks for all the detail. Following along.

Adelaidean, even though we decry the 8 1/2 hour flight, we often do remark about the long travel time which you Aussies endure. We really should have no complaints!

We'll keep watch for a TR from you Fall trip. Agree: Fall seems like ages ago.

I'm pushing to get our TR completed before the new format begins. Not sure if I'll make it.


Bilboburgler: LOL at your post! Those names do seem to apply.


Reading54:Nice to know that a few people are following along. Thanks for your interest.

I stayed at the San Carlo once--due to a mistake I made in booking another place. I thought the people who worked there were very nice and the rooms comfortable. Great price, too.

I always enjoy your reports. Haven't been to Rome myself.

<We'll keep a watch for a TR>

It disappeared into the abyss of Fodors fairly quickly, Tom, haven't mastered the ability to summarize properly

https://www.fodors.com/community/eur...rip-report.cfm

Leely2, we assess the Hotel San Carlo in Rome the same as you expressed. Very nice hotel in Central Rome.


Adelaidean, thanks so much for the link to your great report! Wonderful! It makes us want to return to Switzerland. However, it will have to wait 'til at least 2019, as we're planning for Spain this year.

We have to master the art of packing so light as you describe!

So nice to keep up with you among our Fodorite friends!

Outstanding....have been waiting for this! Your first installment really makes us want to return to Rome. I always show your reports to Kim and Mary to let them know that we're not the only ones to enjoy a full day of exploring. We'll be following along...Frankie and Remi are enjoying it, too.

Maitaitom, thanks for following along! We consider your positive comments to be real compliments as your reports provide the paradigm for trip journals!

So glad that Frankie and Remi are following along too!

Trying to keep up with Bowl games while working on the next installment.

Loving this! More please!

Great, we'll see you in Switzerland in 2019 then



Hasn't it been cold enough for you to be inside, updating your report?

Enjoying your excellent TR tomarkot! I have been wanting to get back to Rome too! I may do another Italy trip this year and it will definitely include at least a week in bella Roma.

>>> After entry, which included going through a security checkpoint, we could take a back-spiral staircase, named the Bramante Staircase, after the artist who was a major architect of the Vatican.<<<

Was that the actual Bramante staircase (generally closed to the public, but some private access can be arranged) or the modern staircase by Guiseppe Momo that sometimes people call the Bramante? I've wanted to see the original.

We were told that it was the actual Bramante staircase, and as you described, generally closed to the public. There was a guard at the entrance who checked with our guide before allowing our group entrance.

I hope you have a wonderful visit to the Vatican!

Bostonblondie226 and Dayle, thanks for following along. Having interested readers does provide motivation to keep plugging away.

Adelaidean, Sounds as though you might be thinking about Switzerland in '19.

And, yes, you're right about the weather here. Freezing temps encourage indoor activity!

POMPEII, & THE AMALFI COAST

SUNDAY, SEPTEMBER 24, 2017

We’re off at 8 AM, traveling south to Pompeii, with our destination being three nights in Sorrento. As we exited Rome, we discussed all the highlights as well as all the things remaining “on our list” that will give us a reason to return. Our experience in Rome was wonderful!

It’s about three hours to Pompeii, with a cappuccino/restroom stop en route. After four days of on-the-go activity in Rome, we’re happy to relax on the coach, discuss our experiences of the past four days, and take in the scenery en route, enjoying Vincenzo’s ongoing commentary as we traveled.

We stopped half-way at a restroom/snack bar/convenience store. Vincenzo explained the routine and assisted with the procedure. One must order and immediately pay for coffee/pastry, etc., and receive a ticket from the clerk showing payment. Then proceed to a counter for pick-up. Quite a line; difficult to hurry at this ½ hour stop.

The travel time seemed to pass quickly. The Pompeii parking lot was busy. But immediately after exiting the coach, we are met by a local guide, Paola, who was so pleasant and speaks English well, with Americanized expressions. Lots of walking on rough, large, uneven stones, small cobblestones, high curbs, and narrow walkways with hundreds of tourists walking in every direction. However, the guidance and information provided by Paolo made the exploration interesting.

The destruction of Pompeii, as well as the neighboring Herculaneum, was caused by the massive eruption of the volcano Mt. Vesuvius in 79 AD. These cities were submerged under 14-17 feet of volcanic material and mud, killing thousands of people. Mt. Vesuvius is considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world and experts believe that a major eruption could happen again.

One fascinating fact learned was that it was the gas that escaped as the Mt. Vesuvius volcano was erupting that killed many of the residents. Because of that, many bodies were found buried under the rubble.

Pompeii’s residents were wealthy, and the whole town was extremely civilized. In 79 AD, they seemed to lack only electricity! The town was complete with water drainage with a lead pipe system, a theatre, a forum, shopping stalls
selling things like food, jewelry and clothing, outdoor food booths, baths, and a sports’ stadium. The gladiators were not as portrayed in our movies, but shorter, less muscled men fighting for their lives.

Some reconstructed bodies were in display cases (an adult man, a child, a dog). There were ruins from a temple, store fronts with owner’s house quarters behind them, rooms where the slaves were locked up, etc. The “red light district” seemed to be a highlight on the tour with much explanation of the slave girls who were the prostitutes and the men who participated in this area.

About 1 ½ hours later, we again joined up with Vincenzo who treated us to their popular orange/lemon drink. The climate in this southern area of Italy produces wonderful fruit. We sat behind the outdoor bar/grill where Margie ordered a salami with mozzarella and Tom had a “sandwich pizza”. We had about 45 minutes before taking off for Sorrento. Those orange/lemon drinks were so delicious that we had to have another before taking off!

The drive to Sorrento was about one-hour south, with one stop at an overlook. Wow! The beauty of the Gulf of Naples. A taste of what we would be enjoying. Our weather so far had been perfect: sunny, blue skies, and mild temperatures.

We were eager to spend three nights in Sorrento, named by some as the “Gateway to the Amalfi Coast”. From Sorrento, we would visit the Isle of Capri, have a speedboat trip to enjoy the rough, beautiful coast from the water, drive the Amalfi Coast and explore lovely Positano, as well as the city of Amalfi.

Our three-night stay in Sorrento was at the Hotel Majestic, an older place, but well-kept. As per the normal routine, room assignments were distributed, and within a few minutes we were getting situated in Room 209.

There were small restaurants nearby our hotel, but we chose to take advantage of an optional dining experience for the evening. It sounded appealing. . .in a small mountain town. We left at 7:30 and enjoyed a beautiful sunset drive up a twisty mountain road with overlooks to the sea.

An individual family ran the restaurant and prided themselves on full-course, slowly-prepared food. As described, the meal began with an antipasto which, in addition to the normal things like meats and cheeses, had items like fried zucchini, an olive mix on bruschetta, etc. Then followed the normal Italian courses of pasta and an entrée. Most selections were quite tasty. And, of course, all accompanied with Italian vino.

A guitarist entertained, and he certainly knew how to appeal to an English-speaking crowd. He knew many of the old pop tunes, had percussion instruments which he distributed among the crowd, and had half the crowd, including us, up dancing. There was a newly-engaged couple in the restaurant, and everyone toasted them.

As we left the restaurant, it was dark. Vincenzo, who has a whole library of CD’s, and selects songs which accompany the scenery or atmosphere, had his stash of American favorites. So, the crowd accompanied such artists as Neil Diamond, and it made the ½ hour drive to the hotel seem short.


MONDAY, SEPTEMBER 25, 2017

Isle of Capri, Sorrento city exploration

Breakfast at 6:45; off at 7:30. We were really looking forward to this visit to the Isle of Capri!!! We had visited many years ago, and anticipated it as one of our trip highlights!

One advantage of a tour is that the director takes care of all tickets, and schedules, and negotiating the series of taxis, boats, funiculars, etc. etc.

Taxis transported us to the dock in Sorrento where our guide Stefano was there to meet us. From the Sorrento dock, we immediately boarded a large ferry to Isle of Capri. We felt fortunate to have ideal weather for this highlight day! Traveling across the Bay of Naples, enjoying Sorrento from the water, was refreshing in the early morning.

Once on the dock of the Isle of Capri, we boarded another smaller speed boat to travel around the Island. The highlight of the day was that boat ride all along the gorgeous coast! The boat accommodated only about a dozen passengers. We were happy to score seats in the front. As we traveled, Stephano pointed out many places of interest, like palatial homes built into the terraced sides, one belonging to Bill Gates.

We didn’t attempt the famous Blue Grotto, which we had witnessed on a former trip. We had heard that the area has become over-visited. With our early start, we practically had the coast to ourselves. The driver did take us to a couple of other grottoes: a coral grotto and a green grotto. Also, an area of turquoise waters. He paused at the so-called “Lover’s Rock” so couples had the opportunity take a photo if they wished. We made use of the opportunity.

There aren’t enough adjectives to describe this amazing coastal experience. The joke about the driver was that he had learned to drive a boat before he learned to walk. The whole experience was a “10” for us.

Following that phenomenal experience, we hopped a funicular to arrive at heart of the city of Capri. We then had free time to walk, shop, see gardens, etc. We were invited to walk with Stefano to explore the famous Augustus Gardens along the coast. The Via Krupp, named after a wealthy German industrialist, winds through a series of panoramic, flower-decked terraces, with overlooks to the sea.

Had we known beforehand the steep, long path down, and consequently, the return climb, we might have declined the offer. But the beauty of the gardens, with the fantastic sea views, made us glad that we had taken advantage of that experience. Before starting up the long walk, we did pause for one of those delicious orange/lemon drinks.

Even though the narrow cobblestone alley was difficult to negotiate, especially given the number of people on the same path, it was lined with many upscale shops and interesting little restaurants and inns. We didn’t make any purchases, but did pause to look at some of the merchandise displayed in the windows.

The views from the famous Augustus Garden were outstanding, but more amazing views were to be enjoyed by just walking around the perimeter of Capri. Our camera received plenty of clicks.

Before we met at the famous clock tower to catch convertible taxis back down to the dock area, we had time to enjoy some time sitting on a nearby bench overlooking this great view from Capri. We boarded taxis to descend from the town of Capri to the dock below, using our few minutes on the dock before boarding the ferry to enjoy a dish of gelato!

After the return to Sorrento, most of the group were visiting a farm, with a lunch prepared by the owner. We looked forward to some time on our own to enjoy downtown Sorrento, so we chose not to take part in this event. Vincenzo arranged to have us dropped off in the heart of Sorrento which worked out great.

Our afternoon in Sorrento was wonderful. For lunch, we were seated at a front row sidewalk table of the Fauno Bar overlooking the central roundabout. The appetizer of fresh prosciutto wrapped around perfectly ripened melon hit the spot. We shared an order of delicious cannelloni; rose’ for Margie and an extra beer for Tom. We sipped cappuccinos, and with our bill, the waiter presented us with complimentary glasses of limoncello, that famous drink of the Amalfi coast area.

During our meal, a bride and groom with their photographer stopped in front of the restaurant for photos, and then sat down next to us for drinks.

Following that delightful lunch, we took the Sorrento City Visitors’ Train for a ½ hour ride around the area. We bumped along on the old Roman Roads, saw some of the residences, and especially enjoyed all the views of the Gulf of Naples.

After that little excursion, window shopping was interesting, especially viewing the beautiful “intarsio” (inlaid wood or marquetry) which is characteristic of Sorrento. The owner of a little shop, who had his little daughter with him, told us that "intarsio" is a dying art; that young people are moving away and not interested in following the family tradition. In order to survive, his wife works at the local bank. We enjoyed talking with him.

In view of our ample lunch, we picked up a sandwich from a local pasticceria to enjoy later at the Majestic Palace Hotel. Again, we had an enjoyable encounter with the owner and his daughter. We like meeting the local people when we travel. Finally, a walk to the taxi stand and we were off to our hotel. (20 EUR).

From the high perch of our hotel, sunset was beautiful from the 5th floor terrace as the 7:30 time approached. One has a view of Naples, Mt. Vesuvius, and the Isle of Capri in the distance. After that evening treat, we returned to our room to have the sandwiches on our balcony. We were tired and aimed to retire earlier that night. It had been a Red-Letter Day!



TUESDAY, SEPTEMBER 26, 2017

Amalfi Coast Drive

Breakfast was at 7:30. This was our day to travel the Amalfi Coast road, visiting the idyllic hillside town of Positano, and then moving on to the town of Amalfi. We felt more rested given the earlier retiring and later rising. Breakfast at the Majestic Palace was OK. We appreciated their cappuccinos.

Because of the narrow road on the Amalfi Coast, we traveled in specialty mini buses, with large windows on each side. They were OK for the purpose of sightseeing along the coast, but not as roomy as our regular coach seats.

It was probably over an hour (given a stop or two for picture taking) to reach Positano. The whole drive along the coast is gorgeous!!! The mountains drop right into the Gulf.

Positano is an idyllic hillside city of about 4,000 residents. Being one of the most popular towns along the coast, it was full of visitors milling around everywhere. We followed Vincenzo to an area past the church on the way down to the beach, and had about 1½ hours to roam the streets and wish that we could stay for a few days!

We opted to have cappuccino and desserts at a Café Buca Di Bacco, located directly on the little beach. We shared a soft lemon cake and a lemon gelato inside a crepe, since we were in lemon country. Again, the long downhill to the beach, with boutiques bordering each side of the path, meant an equally long uphill back to the buses. Exercise is not lacking when enjoying these cobblestone paths! However, the beach is beautiful, the shops are delightful, if expensive, and the view to the hillside, dotted with homes, inns, and little restaurants is so gorgeous that the steep streets are worth it!

From Positano, it was another drive for maybe 45 minutes to reach the city of Amalfi. The gorgeous scenery on the road which threads along the high cliffs of the Tyrrhenian Sea is stunning. We took a myriad of pictures through the bus window. The road was so narrow and twisty that the traffic entering Amalfi was controlled both ways so as to avoid accidents..

Immediately after exiting the mini-bus, we were met by a local guide, Michelangelo (Yes, really!). This colorful guide described the four Maritime Republics of the Middle Ages: Amalfi, with its 8 miles of coastal port, Venice, Genoa, and Pisa. Being located between Rome and Constantinople, Amalfi was an important trading post. It became wealthy from both exporting and importing goods. It imported such things as salt from Sardinia, timber from as far way as Egypt and Syria, and silk from the Byzantine empire. One detail which we found interesting is that the process of paper-making was introduced from trading partners in Amalfi, and it replaced sheep parchment in Europe.

This commerce introduced a very diverse population to the area. We learned that the citizens of Amalfi got along well and traded with Arabs and Byzantines, many of whom settled in the area.

Side detail related by Michelangelo, who was a humorous guy: Amalfi would trap pirates and conquer them at times. They had a Trap Hallway for young girl prostitutes, which they now refer to as “Trump Hallway”.

Mid-square, we were left on our own for almost 1 ½ hours. So we chose a little place for a quick lunch, as it is far past our lunch hour. We couldn’t believe that they had run out of pizzas! But they had beer. So, we shared a ham and cheese panini for 15 EUR, including a tip

The narrow cobblestone streets were lined with small restaurants and shops. The main architectural attraction of Amalfi is its cathedral, named in honor of St. Andrew. It forms the cultural, religious, and historical center of Amalfi. An outstanding feature of the cathedral is the impressive 62ft.wide, steep stairs which lead up to it from the street below. Its style has Romanesque, Byzantine, Gothic and Baroque elements, reflecting the differing cultures in maritime Amalfi. The façade is striped marble and stone.

After strolling around the town, peering in some of the shops and picking up our favorite gelato, we wended our way to the coastal area. Amalfi is known to have the nicest beach along the whole coast.

As the day progressed, the skies became steadily cloudier, though the sun had cooperated for most of the day. We sat on the coastal side of the bus for the return drive, but fatigue, coupled with the overcast later in the day, made picture-taking less desirable. We passed the interesting sites such as the location where Liz Taylor and Richard Burton were married; one more of Sophia Lauren’s houses, etc, pointed out by Vincenzo.

Back to Majestic Palace Hotel about 5 PM. We had a brief crisis over Margie’s “misplaced” purse. A momentary scare, but the anxiety was quickly resolved. She had not left it on the bus, as thought, but in a different location in the room.

We visited the hotel’s beautiful outdoor garden, and then moved on to eat an early dinner via a 15-minute uphill walk to Ciao Tutto. We were too early for the Italian dinner hour, and the restaurant was not yet open, so we headed into a square farther on which we assumed was in Sant Angello, just outside the Sorrento city limits. Sam’s Bar, with a view of the church, was decent for an inexpensive, casual place to enjoy vino, beer, and pasta. Margie had ravioli and Tom chose the tagliatelle. Both were tasty. Margie had an extra glass of Chianti to celebrate the “finding” of her purse. A walk back downhill (yea!) and in our room by about 8 PM. Needed to pack as we would be checking out at 8 AM.

We had had a fabulous time on the Amalfi Coast. We enjoyed our stay in Sorrento as it is a beautiful city overlooking the Gulf of Naples, and has a location which provides easy access other areas. This part of our trip was a real high point for us!

In the morning, we would be headed north to Umbria and Tuscany.

I'm not a tour person (wow, those would be early starts for a late sleeper like me!), but this sounds like a good one. I agree that the Bay of Naples is stunning.

Looking forward to more.

Leely2, we thought we weren't tour people either, having done our share of train and driving travels. What made us give them a try was our trip to "Eastern (Central) Europe when, in a discussion of our desired itinerary with a AAA agent, she convinced us to give a try to a tour. There are always pros and cons to things. But we found that the convenience of having all hotels, transportation, and other stuff taken care of, plus sparing us hours of prep on our own, worked out. (We still do preparation, but it's to have a knowledge of the areas and the attractions.)

We find The coaches to be so comfortable; the number of seats is limited to 38. So far, the drivers and the tour director have been top-notch. So we'll see what our future plans hold. It's probably not for everyone.

As far as early rising, at home I'm about the worst early morning person. But when traveling, we usually try to get going early and take full advantage of our days, thinking that we can sleep when we return.

Thanks for following along! Happy Travels to you!

It's nice to read about your trip and experience with a tour. You have gotten to see some beautiful places and makes me want to return. Looking forward to Umbria and Tuscany.