Over the last year I have devoured trip reports from others so it's my turn to give back. And, without learning so much from this site, our trip wouldn't have been so fabulous. I was often heard saying "on Fodors I read........Fodorits tell me that.....".
Needless to say -- here I go. Details:
PARTIES: I am 42, this is my frist trip to Europe. I was an avid traveller, prior to meeting my partner Alan. My usual destinations included tropical locations.
Al - 47. Had one trip with his ex wife 15+ years ago which he claimed made him swear he would never travel with a woman again!. It took me a while but I off we went.
INTERESTS: Al is quite a history buff. When doing a crossword puzzle I know I can count on him for any history questions. In particular, he quite likes the whole Roman history story. I am a wine lover with a passion for cooking. Prior to the trip I received 2 Tuscany cook books so I have been learning alot about Tuscan foods
TRIP PLAN: After alot of discussions with Fodorits, our plan started in Rome, followed with Tuscany for a few days and ending in Venice. Our entire trip was 11 days.
BEST PLANNING TIPS: It took us 2 days to make it happen but we were able to pack everything into two 22 inch roller suitcases. What a great recommendation!!!!
And private guides - I will describe more below.
DAY ONE: Rome. We are flying Air Canada. FOr 2 days I have been up at 3:00 am in order to get ready for the time change (and partly because I was so exicted I couldn't sleep). OUr flight is scheduled to leave Oct. 31st. Upon our arrival to the airport, giddy like a kid at Christmas, we are advised that the flight had been cancelled in August and that we should have been notified. Yikes........this was impossible. We quickly grabbed a cab to our travel agent, thinking they were to blame. It actually was an Air Canada oversight. Needless to say, we had to change all of our bookings - hotels, car rentals, tour guides...In tears I returned home to try and make some of the necessary changes.
Well - Nov. 1st we are off. Everything has been delayed by a day and in the middle of the night I was able to make some changes.
We flew business class which was amazing. I would so highly recommend this when possible. We used points but had to book almost a year ago.
ROME HOTEL: We made arrangements to stay at Grand Hotel Tiberio. It is near the Vatican and in what they consider a "high end residential area". We asked that they arrange a driver for us upon our arrival. As we get off the plan in Rome and seek for a driver, there is no one around. I begin to think that this trip will indeed be one from hell and that maybe Al has some trip vodoo thing going on. We decide to try and call the hotel but they can't speak English. In frustration, we decide to get a cab. As we exit the airport there is a tiny man holding up a sign that has some of the same letters of my name....my name is Painchaud...his sign said inchiad. Needless to say, he was from Hotel Tiberio.
HOTEL TIBERIO: What a great hotel. It is in a residential area which we were a bit apprehensive about but wow -- highly recommend it. They rooms are large and very modern. The best was getting to the downtown area (ie Colleseum, Pantheon). We only needed 1e to take the bus which picked us up in front of the hotel and dropped us off at a very convenient place.
Within hours of arriving, I warned Al that we couldn't go to sleep but had to immediately immerse ourselves into the Roman culture.
We took the bus and stopped at our first cafe for a much needed Expresso. It was interesting how we immediately relaxed and enjoyed sitting outdoors people watching.
After just touring around, which is so easily done in Rome, we returned to the hotel but stoppd at a local pizza place nearby. Remember this is a hotel in a residential area. No one speaks English. But wow, the pizza was the best on the entire trip and cheap!!!!! We actually went there twice.

ROME ACTIVITIES DAY TWO: We spend 3 days in Rome. Day one we did the usual touristy things - Spanich Steps, Pantheon, etc. I actually didn't even want to stay in Rome but head straght to Tuscany. I thought it would be best if I allow Al a few days to see some history. I admit that I was so wrong. I There is something in the air in Rome. Hard to describe it but we felt so comfortable and relaxed.
Day Two we hired a private tour guide. Another fabulous decision. She met us at the Colleseum. We passed by the long line as she held up her special tour pass. I felt like Royalty. Her English was perfect and her passion for Rome was beautiful. A tour with her was one of the most memorable parts of the trip. She did recommend a restaurant with a great view of the COlleseum which was horrible and expensive. However we were still glowing with the wonderful tour she gave us.
When we returned to our hotel.
For dinner on Day Two, I had a list of restaurants recommended on this site. We couldn't find any of them but came upon a little place called The Old Bear. It is near the Panthon on Bia Dei Gigli D'Oro. THis was our first official dinner in Rome and what a pleasant surprise. THe service was amazing and the food spendid. Had the best mussels and for dinner a superb Paella. The prices were also lower than other restaurants we saw.
DAY THREE: Our hotel advised us that due to the changes we had to made they can't accomodate us for the 3rd night. They recommend THe Grand Hotel Plaza right in the centre of Rome on the Via Del Corso. We leave the quietness of the residential area and take a taxi to Grand Hotel Plaza. What a difference -- the people! The energy! This is a fabulous hotel but rather expensive 230e a night. However, very clean and very elegant. Walking out the front doors was an amazing church that actually brought tears to my eyes.
We wandered the streets and had lunch nearby in an alley of sorts. "Fromage" or something. Very night - great bread and live entertainment on the street. And of course we have been having the daily gelatis that Fodorites insist on. Rome had the best!!!

We love Rome so much that now we are trying to change our plans and spend another day there. HOwever our other arrangements cannot be changed so tomorrow am we are off to Tuscany!

CLOSING: So Al and I have been 3 days on the trip and he is actually having fun. I am beginning to think that this trip might be a good thing.

Mishka, I can't believe how your bubble must have been burst when you arrived at the airport to find your flights had been cancelled. OMG, that's awful after so much anticipation.

Glad to see that you ended up getting there and enjoying yourselves. Enjoying your report and looking forward to more.

Looking forward to reading more.

So glad you were able to fix everything and leave only one day late! Looking forward to more. You say 3-part trip report...please post the entire report here as replies so it all stays together.

What an emotional ride you must have been on! From tears of frustration to tears of joy! More please!

Mishka- what a fantastic story you're telling!
I love reading about your "first taste" of Rome, you're telling it so well-
And I have to give you major kudos for how you were able to get yourself together and rearrange everything after your Halloween nightmare of flight cancellations.

You have amazing energy, and you have definitely caught that "something in the air" found on Rome and thanks for sending it our way. Keep writing, this is good!

Things seem to be looking up--waiting to hear more. Please add you next episode to this post!

Part III - my goodness, sorry for the delay.
After falling in love with Rome, and then with Tuscany, we are off to Venice. Maps in hand, we decide to Montelpuciano one more time. As Al took pictures I had the important task of buying wine to take back to Canada. I found a gem.......There is a small, non descript store that sells wine and olive oils. THe young woman working there quickly offered samples of wines and oils. After choosing the bottles I wanted to buy, she said "would you like to see our Wine Cellar?". Politely, I said sure (but really didn't care). Oh My GOODNESS - this is a secret. Under this store were numerous tunnels, with hundreds of wine making barrels, oil oil pressing machines but the prize, were the numerous Etruscan displays. Truly a hidden gem.
We ventured onto the AUtoStrada and headed to Venice. There was a terrible accident which delayed traffic for over an hour.
Driving to Venice was the most confusing of all of our driving. He didn't know where to go, where to drop off the car. We found the Avis (most amazing customer service) amongst crowds of people on a very busy street. After 4+ hours of travelling, I desperately needed a bathroom (stop laughing). The Avis gentlemen confirmed they didn't have washrooms that I should wait until we get to our hotel (yeah right.....). I guess he saw my "need" and took the car keys - said "no problem, I will take car of your car....you can go".
Trying to find which water bus to take was also a challenge and the people at the ticket counter were far from friendly. However, we made our way, I prayed for a quick trip and voila - we made it to our hotel.
We stayed at Pensione WIldner which came recommended from someone on the FOdors site. Her and I emailed each other a few times and after learning more, we booked it. What a fabulous, special place. Prior to our arrival, I emailed the hotel and asked that they have a special surprise for my husband. UPon our arrival, a bottle of chapagne and the most amazing chocolates arrived. The hotel was quaint, clean and talk about convenient -- right on the water!!!! No having to wander the streets trying to find your hotel. We immediately felt comfortable (and after a quick run to the bathroom) and decided to head out and venture into our new home - Venice.
I had to pause here...as my initial reaction to Venice was that it felt too touristy. That the streets had too many common stores (that we can find in North America) and that the hords of tourists were shopaholics who didn't care about anything but their bags. Well......I stand corrected in that the next day, when I had more time to appreciate the beauty and its uniquness, I too fell in love with Venice. My favorite part was wandering until we got lost.
We hired a private tour guide for this city as well and again, best decision. Her name was Elisabetta and she was absolutely incredible. He story telling and passion was so enchanting. THanks for many recommendations, we did the Secret Itenrary of Doge's Palace which was very much worth it. After touring the Palace, Elisabetta walked around with us and pointed out special places. She was so charming.
After touring, Al and I found a quaint restaurant where we could watch the Gondolas. The restaurant, Ristorante La Gondola was amazing. We had a seafood pizza that was very tasty. Couples around the tables took turns taking pictures of each other with their cameras.
We were only in Venice for 2.5 days but very special. We became obsessed with masks and were suddenly on a mission to find the most special mask to bring home.
My favorite night was with our new Fodor friend who recommended the hotel and who happened to be there at the same time. She took us to the most incredible restaurant. The name escapes me now (will find out) but it was by far one of the best restaurants in our whole trip. Was a special way to end our trip. When we finished dinner, she decided to head back to the hotel via water. We wanted to wander the Venice streets one more time. Walking hand in hand, so grateful to have been able to take such a special trip, we wandered about thinking we were in the right direction to our hotel. After 45 minutes of walking, we returned to the restaurant!!! Lost beyond belief. Needless to say, another hour and we made it back.
LESSON LEARNED: The only flight we could get out of Venice was at 6:00 am. The day before, our hotel confirmed that we should take the best way to get to the airport at that time (water buses aren't working that early) would be to take a water taxi directly to the airport. The cost was substantial but that was our only option. The next morning, there is a knock at our door at 4;00am ish. It is the front desk clerk who, is broken English, says "no water taxi - too much fog". Now what? It appears that the taxis know the water to the "station" well enough in the fog. We could take it to the station and then take a taxi to the airport. In a panic, we follow this recommendation. Caution -- It cost alot. I think they knew we were in a pinch. We had to stop at a bank machine to get extra Euros to pay for the taxi.
All in all - great trip, great memories and a for sure RETURN AGAIN

Here is a summary of some of the hotels, restaurants:

Rome HOtel: Grant Hotel Tiberio - great place, residential area, well worth the price
Rome Hotel: Grand HOtel Plaza. Very special hotel. WOnderful location. Rooms small but beautiful
Rome Restaurant: Osteria Della Frezza Formaggeria. Amazing place. Their ravioli di ricotta spinach is a must.
Rome Tour Guide: Francesca Caruso - [email protected]. Worth it!!!
Restaurant Rome: Old Bear. Great service, cheap, amazing Paella
Tuscany Home: LaSaracina. Wonderful location. Make sure you don't get the first room that is under the office
Tuscany Restaurant: Must go -- La Grotta, Monepulciano
Tuscany Restaurant: Ristorante Il Cantuccio - another must go
Tuscany Resutarant: Osteria Di Porta - Montalcino - get the wild mushroom soup and the bruchetta
Hotel Venice: Pensione Wildner
Venice Restaurant: Ristorante LaGondola, get the seafood pizza
Venice tour guide: Luisella Romeo, [email protected]

Enjoy!

Mischka, your special Fodors friend is a special friend of mine, too. Unfortunately she and I missed one another by mere days on our recent trip to Venice. Too bad...we could have all gotten together.

I also met Elisabetta, but didn't have an opporutnity to chat with her at the time. She definitely seemed like a real gem, though!

We also got caught in the "too much fog, it'll cost more money" scenario upon leaving. Oh well...that's the breaks, right?

Thanks so much for the wonderful report. It makes me feel like I'm right back in magical Venezia again! I'm glad that you found the charms of this wonderful city.

What happened to Part II - Tuscany?

Mishka,
I really enjoyed your report. You have a way of reporting that captivates the reader. I could tell that you had a wonderful time. Thanks for sharing your adventures!

Have you changed Alan's mind about traveling with a woman? You sound like a terrific traveling companion.

I had the same experience going to the Venice airport early in the morning. Too much fog on the lagoon, so the water taxi took us to Piazzale Roma, where we got a land taxi. I believe the fog is a danger on the open lagoon, but not so much in the canals within Venice, so they are allowed to take passengers to the train and bus stations, but not to the airport. If I recall correctly, the cost ended up being approximately the same as the water taxi would have been if we had taken it all the way to the airport, since the cost of taking the water taxi to Piazzale Roma was less than the trip to the airport.

Mishka,
Thank you so much for the delightful trip report. You really kept your cool under some very stressful situations and it worked out beautifully.