We have a very short time in Milan in late June. We have two teenagers, and have never been there.

Please let me know if you have any comments/tips:

We arrive in the afternoon on Friday at Malpensa, and plan to take the Milan Express into town.

Friday afternoon/evening:
-explore Duomo area, Galleria Umberto, & famous shopping streets
-explore Brera neighborhood, have dinner there

Sat morning:
-10:15 reserv for the Last Supper
-train to Varenna, explore Varenna/Bellagio, lunch, Villa Carlotta, return to Milan by dinner

Sun morning:
-Duomo - inside (what time is mass?) and roof,
-la scala museum (want to get a peek inside the theater -- is this the only way?),
-train to Florence in afternoon

Thank you!!

We were there very briefly in 2006, so the Duomo is about all we had time for. The rooftop tour is not to be missed - it's too cool.

we will be in Milan---are you taling about rooftop tour of Duomo? Is it hard to arrange?

what is the Brera neighborhood?

tmd-- did you tour the rooftop yourselves or take a guided tour. not sure what you meant, but I have heard it is definitely not to be missed!

The Brera neighborhood, according to my research, seems to be a charming, pedestrian area with shops and restaurants.

I welcome any other comments or suggestions...

Thanks!

We (husband and I) visited Milan last fall, as part of a business trip my husband and I had there. We were pleasantly surprised at how much we enjoyed the city.

When we visited the Duomo, we did not take guided tour (I don't know whether there is one or not). We just paid at the door, climbed up (there's an elevator as well) and enjoyed the rooftop on our own, with our guidebooks. The views are great, and the rooftop is interesting as well. If you're planning on visiting on Sunday, you might want to confirm whether access to the roof is open on Sundays, or during services.

We spent time in the Brera, and it was a delightful area. I'm sure there were shops, but I remember more the restaurants and cafes. And in the evening, the many fortune-tellerrs. It's quiet, because it is pedestrian. We had dinner in the Brera at Nabucco. It was good but not great; they were definitely used to foreign tourists there, and I had the feeling that the reason that people were flocking to that restaurant in particular was because they'd read about it in some guidebook (which is how I heard about it), rather than because the food was fantastic.

I'm not sure where the university in Milan is, but I suspect that it's near the Duomo or towards Castello Sforzesco, which is up via Dante from the Duomo area. I saw many students in that area. I really liked via Dante. It seemed like a more average area, with more stores for younger people. It's also pedestrian, with lots of cafes and were just right for lunch (or a casual dinner). Probably a good place to visit with teens.

The Castello Sforzesco is in a nice park; good for just wandering around, if you're in the mood. Several different museums are located in the Castello. We only visited the sculpture museum there; the ceilings of each room of that museum are highly decorated, and the museum ends with an unfinished Michelangelo. We also enjoyed the Pinocateca di Brera (in the Brera neighborhood) and the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana, both nice, smaller art museums. Not world-class by Italian museum standards, but with their da Vincis, Tintorettos, Raphaels, Caravaggios, Van Dycks, Rembrandts, etc., they would best most American art museums. But give them time only if you're interested in art.

What time do you arrive at Malpensa?

If early enough, I'd suggest you explore the Duomo (inside, outside and roof) on Friday afternoon. Then walk through the Galleria. If it's still relatively early, you could go to the La Scala Museum (last entry is at 5:00 p.m.). If shopping is more important to you, then leave La Scala to Sunday.

I'm not sure on the Saturday that you'd have time to see Villa Carlotta. Even if physically possible, in a visit of only a few hours, I'd stick to Varenna, Bellagio and lunch with a lake view. You could substitute Villa Melzi in Bellagio which would eliminate the need to ride (and wait for) additional ferries. When you buy your tickets for Varenna Esino at Centrale, buy the return tickets as well.

Hi dina,

I have the same thought as Jean on the daytrip to Lake Como. I tried to do it as a daytrip from Milan and didn't have enough time.

I left Centrale about 10am and the train takes nearly 2 hrs to Varrena. I walked down and visited a villa with gardens at the far end of Varrena and headed back to the ferry office. Went to Bellagio for a short stroll around and intended to ferry to the next villa, which I think was Carlotta.

I got over to Menaggio and found that I would not be able to make the last ferry back to Varrena so had to turn right around and go back. Had to sit and wait 2 hrs for the next train back to Milan. I believe the trains are less frequent on weekends (it was a weekend).

So check the train and ferry schedules to be sure you can accomplish your sightseeing to make the trip worthwhile!

Buon viaggio!

Lexma -- thanks for the fantastic and detailed info! I hadn't heard of Via Dante, but will definitely look into it.

Jean -- our plane arrives at 1:30pm. I like your idea of starting at the duomo. It's the #1 thing i want to see and I'd be so disappointed if we couldn't get on the roof sunday morning!!

Jean/Dayle -- you're probably right about Villa Carlotta. My family may veto it anyways, i just thought if I could drag them to one garden, that might be the best one.

Is Villa Melzi or the garden in Varenna comparable?? ( my rationale is if I drag them to a garden, it had better be spectacular!!)

Dayle -- when i checked the trenitalia website, the schedule seemed to suggest that travel on the faster trains (no stops) between milane centrale and varenna esino was only 1 hr 3 min, which is what we plan to take. Trains that stop in lecco do take almost 2 hours.

TORRE DE PISA-- thinking of having dinner here when in Milan. anybody tried it?

thanks again for your responses!

Dina,

I may not have been on the "fast train"! However, my trip was long enough ago that the schedule may have changed too. Just didn't want you to go and get stuck.

dayle, i ALWAYS appreciate your helpful advice!! thanks.

The gardens at the Villa Melzi are a short distance out of the main part of Bellagio. They are fairly large and rise up from the lake. it would take some time to walk to and explore. Sculpture and lots of azaleas and rhododendrons. The villa was built by Duke Melzi who was an assistant to Napolean.

There are also gardens of the Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio, but seeing them requires reservations in advance through the Tourist Info Office in the small piazza next to the church. Groups of 6 minimum, 30 maximum, tours at 11 a.m. and 4 p.m. only and take 1.5 hours.

The Giardini di Villa Cipressi in Varenna are small and run parallel to the lake. They are right in town. The Villa Cipressi is now a hotel. Here's a map of Varenna:

http://www.varennaitaly.com/mappa_e.html

I do not recommend eating at Bar Si in the Galleria. It was the worst meal during a two week trip to Italy last year. High price, terrible service and lousy food.
10 months later we're still commenting how bad.

Hi Dina,

Glad to hear that you will try to see the roof of the Duomo since it is truely astounding. We spent several hours wandering around and snapping pictures on a wonderful sunny day. Please be aware that roof access is closed during bad weather, so it would be good to schedule a visit on Friday and in the event of rain, you could hopefully find access on another day.

If you find that you have extra time somewhere, there is a lovely off-the-beaten-track attraction at the racetrack (every pun intented). It is a full-size replica of a 24' bronze horse designed by Leonardo da Vinci, but built centuries later through the efforts of American Charles Dent and donated in 1999 as a gift to the people of Italy. There is a wonderful backstory to this horse, and we were thrilled to finally see it after reading about it several years ago.

Good luck....you will love Milan!
--Annie

Annie -- thanks for the tips. that sounds like a magnificent horse! where exactly is the race track?

we will definitely try to get to the duomo's roof first (on friday). didn't realize they close if the weather is bad!

thanks again!

jean, thanks for the garden tip. we'll see what we can manage.

granthammommie - Thanks for the tourist -trap tip!

Dear Dina4,
Hope you're still reading replies to your question...a trade fair in Como takes me to Milan every year, and I have the following suggestions for you:

You'll be there too short a time for a day trip to Varenna or Bellagio or Lake Como...save it for when you have more time. Also, remember that Italian gardens are generally GREEN gardens--they're not as floral as most American horticultural gardens--and you could be disappointed. It's all about shape and texture and line--but not necessarily color and flowers.

Re. MILAN: remember that it's now the fashion capital of Europe (no longer Paris) and it's fun to explore the Montenapoleone area ("Montenapo&quot where all the top designers have their flagship stores and boutiques (Armani anyone?). This is in walking distance of the Duomo, Galleria and La Scala. Your teenagers would probably like the huge Emporio Armani store there. For a little splurge, find the Armani Chocolates--they make special gifts and come in all sizes.

The other fashion spot to visit (for women, men, teens) is 10 CORSO COMO--which is also the address. You'd probably have to take a cab to get there. It's THE hip store in Milan--and the whole area around it is becoming equally chic. Corso Como has clothing, books, accessories, home items, a restaurant. No telling what you'll find there. Clothing is cutting edge design--and expensive. But it's fun to look.

Now, this last suggestion will sound bizarre, but trust me, it will be fascinating: visit the CIMITERIO MONUMENTALE, the main cemetery for Milano. It's not far from Corso Como. Imagine crossing Milanese wealth (Campari, Olivetti, etc.) with the Italian devotion to family and Roman Catholic memorials. Some of the most outstanding sculptors in Europe were commissioned to create family crypts which rival the sculptures in any museum. The Campari family has a life-size recreation of the Last Supper in bronze to commemorate their family crypt. You can spend an hour or two wandering through the Cimiterio (start on the left when you enter)--and you'll probably take 3 dozen photos before you leave. It's quite phenomenal.

Brace yourself for the fact that Milan is a sprawling, not very pretty city. It's also overrun with grafitti which is a shame. But like every area, it has its attractions too. Enjoy!