shellio

The lines for the major sites open on the Journeés de Patrimoine can be hours long. Unless there is something you are dying to see inside of that would make it worthwhile waiting so long, I suggest choosing some less popular venues. One year I visited several of the embassies in the 7th arrondissement. Housed in old hôtels particuliers, they can be stunning. Avoid the Swiss embassy; it's as boring as Switzerland.

annhig

Agree that St Denis was very cool. We went with Michael Osman and had time for another stop after the cathedra>>

when we went to St Denis on the way to the Stade de France for a rugby match, the Basilica was literally cool - it was freezing. I liked it, but we could only tolerate the temperature for about 30 minutes.

if you go, I hope that you fare better than we did.

maitaitom

Since we arrive on a Wednesday and leave the following Saturday, I'm thinking we would buy carnet (s) of tickets on Wednesday through Sunday, and pick up a Navigo Découverte for the following week (Monday-Friday). We ride the metro a lot and plan on doing even more this trip since we are trying to branch out to other arrondissements. Does that sound like a good plan?

FrenchMystiqueTours

If you arrive early on Wednesday and since you have to buy the Navigo card anyway and you plan on using the métro at least three times a day then I would buy the Navigo right when you arrive. Even if you only rode twice a day for the first week you'd only spend a few extra euros for the Navigo but the convenience is worth it.

Once you settle on a bistro/resto in the Ménilmontant or Belleville neighborhoods I can give you tips on sights to see or places to explore nearby if you're combining your dining and sightseeing.

rncheryl

This is on my wish list, perhaps you have seen it:




http://www.marmottan.fr/

maitaitom

Yes, Marmottan is on my short list.

FMT…I am leaning toward a restaurant called La Boulangerie...15 Rue des Panoyaux.

Thanks.

FrenchMystiqueTours

Going out for the evening but I'll have some ideas for you tomorrow.

2010

Tom & Tracy, congratulations on your 20th anniversary! Paris is the perfect place for a romantic celebration.

European Heritage Days sure sounds like a wonderful opportunity! I have bookmarked the website Coquelicot shared & will wait until it is updated with information for this year. In the meantime, did you come across any websites that were useful in your early search?

kerouac

Just be careful about what you eat.

http://www.grapheine.com/bmovie-tv/p...3b615e281.html

annhig

bravo, kerouac.

great website!

Judy

That is great, kerouac!

maitaitom

A sure Oscar nominee!!!

FrenchMystiqueTours

Hi Tom. Been busy but thought i'd drop by and leave a few suggestions for you. amwosu has a thread going now and seems they're going to do some exploration of Belleville and Ménilmontant and they've come up with some good ideas on their thread so you might want to check that:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...aris-ideas.cfm

I haven't eaten at La Boulangerie but I love that little pocket of rue des Panoyaux as there are a few bars/cafés I frequent there (Lou Pascalou and La Cale Sèche, which has a nice terrace out back) and I've seen some nice looking little restos/bistros there and on the adjacent street rue Victor Latalle that look interesting. You'll see the bars I'm talking about so after dinner you might want to head across the street for a drink.

Here's a little walk and a few streets you might consider exploring before dinner. You can start by having a look at the website for Paris's 20th arrondissement, which is excellent:

http://www.mairie20.paris.fr/mairie2....jsp?page_id=7

If you haven't been to the Parc de Belleville you could do a little stroll there up to the top and there are great views of Paris next to the Maison de l'Air. Head down rue des Envierges and take a right on rue des Cascades to rue de Ménilmontant and take a left going uphill. On your left is a slice of residential 19th century Paris in the Cité de l'Eermitage so take a peek in here. If you want you can go around the corner and see another such place in the Cité Leroy. Across from Cité de l'Ermitage you can go slam dance with the punk rockers in the artists squat known as La Miroiterie. You'll notice it by the graffiti. You can get a 50cl can of cheap beer for 2.50€ and see some great graffiti art. Otherwise go do rue du Retrait and take a right on rue Laurence Savart, another quaint old timey street. Then take a right on rue Boyer and you'll pass by La Bellevilloise:

http://www.labellevilloise.com/notre-histoire/

This brings you back to rue de Ménilmontant and you can head back down the hill to La Bouangerie and maybe stop to check out the church (on your right) on the way. Happy walking.

baladeuse

My suggestion for a great little restaurant right in the Marais: l'Ange 20. Cosy, laid back and great food. Ate there last November and loved it. Check it out sometime, even if not for your romantic anniversary dinner.

www.lange20.com/

maitaitom

Thanks FMT and baladeuse....Great suggestions.

2010...I have not found any website that gives very much info on European Heritage Days in Paris. Guess we just have to wait.

Coquelicot

Tom, this is last year's JduP site for Paris (87 screens worth), and my guess is that the list doesn't change all that much from year to year, but kerouac and the FMTs would know better than I.

http://www.journeesdupatrimoine.cult...rch/node/paris

maitaitom

Merci!!

djkbooks

It's true, the list doesn't change much from one year to the next.

Some of our favorites have included Hotel de Ville (awesome piano concert), Val de Grace, Société Générale (breathtaking), all of the city halls we've been inside. Extra special was Musée des Arts Forains last September. We'd visited previously with a guided tour, but even more magical, an amazing step back in time, with everything running and families enjoying all. Wonderful music performances, too.

There are tons of possibilities for a romantic dinner, none of the often mentioned anywhere places, beautiful rooms with spectacular food with moderate prices, many "hiding in plain sight".

I'm not usually one who seeks bargains or discounts, but I had spectacular luck last year in April and September with TheFork. All hits, no misses, and we saved a bundle. I hesitate to mention places on this forum, as so many become full of tourists, but you can find them easily for yourself.

Best (and a place we visit every trip) is a place in the 16th with an amazing tasting menu (for a ridiculously low price) with wine pairings AND a spectacular view of the Eiffel Tower from every table. The dessert presentation is extraordinary.

maitaitom

Thanks djk. I was wondering about The Fork. It seems most everyone has had good experiences using it. I wondered because sometimes when you get discounts at restaurants here, they don't always give their best service. Thanks again for the info. I'll try to decipher that restaurant in the 16th.

djkbooks

<< I wondered because sometimes when you get discounts at restaurants here, they don't always give their best service.>>

That has not been our experience, at all. We've never had to remind anyone about the discount, either. It has always just been deducted when the check is presented.

Naysayers (who may have no experience) have suggested that you are handed a different menu (menus, as you probably know, are always posted) or that portions are smaller, but neither has been our experience either.

At one place, where the discount (40%!) applied to everything (even beverages) except fixed price menus, the waiter was careful to point that out. When I ordered one of the menus (because it had everything I wanted and items not available a la carte), he explained again, very patiently, to make sure I understood. We had a lovely meal there. Except that I was with my brother (husband at home, unfortunately), the place was quite romantic. (Cafe Barjot - some mixed reviews, but we just loved the food and the place. We chose it mostly because it's around the corner from Gare de Lyon and we were on our way back from Chateau Fontainebleau.)

If you've ever been to New York, you should easily figure out the place in the 16th, otherwise, e-mail me.

Another place we enjoy (and visit every trip, even before it appeared on TheFork with a discount) is Clementine in the 2nd. A classic traditional bistro with excellent food at moderate prices. (I'm still trying to duplicate some of the dishes at home.)

If you enjoy piano...be SURE to check Lancelot Olivier's schedule on his website. Amazing!