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Looking for "Hidden" Ireland with Trad and tea-leaves...Please advise!

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Oct 15th, 2005 | 12:52 AM
  #1  
None of Ireland is truly "Hidden", but many tourists go too fast to notice. Will be travelling next summer 2006 (June/July) with biologist hubby and 2 young adult daughters over 18. We all want to allow enough time to hear good trad in a pub near our B&B; to have tea and time to chat with a local...to take the less-travelled path we come upon.

Therefore we prefer to stay 3 nights in 1 B&B, and take day-trips from there. Comments or suggestions on my "final" itinerary are most welcome. Actually here are Plan A and Plan B.

Plan A:
Fly into shannon. Rent car.
3 nights: Doolin or Ballyvaughan
3 nights: Dingle Peninsula
2 nights: Kinvara or Galway
3 nights: Westport, County Mayo
2 nights: Belfast
2 nights: Dublin
Fly home from Dublin.

Plan B:
Fly into shannon. Rent car.
1 night: Ennis or Bunratty.
3 nights: Dingle Peninsula
3 nights: Doolin or Ballyvaughan
3 nights: Westport
2 nights: Belfast
3 nights: Dublin (w/ Newgrange day-trip)

Fly home from Dublin.

So many wonderful fodorites have helped me plan this trip for many months now.
Thank you so much! I am ready to get my airline tickets and book my B&Bs.
But not before considering your excellent advice!
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Oct 16th, 2005 | 08:37 AM
  #2  
hi. am also planning trip to ireland for '06. looking at your itineraries, it seems that the first one has some backtracking in it. shannon to doolin is northwest clare, then dingle is northern kerry to the south of clare. kinvara/galway is back to the north of where you just were in doolin/balleyvaughan. i think plan b looks great, and i wish i were able to stay as long as you are! have a fabulous time and drive SLOWLY, per my irish friend who lives here now. one recommendation i've read is plan 40 miles to the hour, maybe longer. HAVE FUN. dellco
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Oct 16th, 2005 | 12:08 PM
  #3  
dellco, thank you! How fortunate for you to have an Irish friend to get travel advice from. (Actually I feel like I've "met" some new Irish friends here on-line!)

Yeah, you're right about the back-tracking in Plan A. I think that's there because I want to stay in Doolin AND Ballyvaughan AND Kinvara AND Galway City! I have noticed in other people's travel reports that people often have the most fun in villages where their B&B is well-located, and they can walk to a fun pub, walk to a good restaurant...This often becomes their "favorite town" in their trip reports.

Where are you planning to go? I really need to get my tickets and B&Bs now, but I keep looking at my itinerary to see if it's nearly perfect enough yet!

I am regretful that I couldn't fit in Baltimore, Skibbereen, and Kenmare...But I decided that Dingle will have to represent the southwest areas. Have to please both biologist hubby and 2 young adult daughters who will want lively evenings. Thought Dingle sounded like a good combo of delights.

Maybe I have too many days in West Ireland, from Doolin up to Westport? Great area, though.

Some people say to skip Dublin, but since we fly out of Dublin, how can I leave out a tour of Killmainham Gaol (we like history), and the National Museum?

Nice "chatting" with you. Another good thing about plan B...with 3 nights in dublin, there is enough time for a day-trip to see Trim Castle or Newgrange.

YOU know I have focused my itinerary around scenic areas and traditional music pubs...NOT around visiting castles. Hope we don't regret this. Maybe Plan B is better because Trim Castle might be the only castle we get to visit...

Thanks anyone who is still listening!
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Oct 16th, 2005 | 03:12 PM
  #4  
Hi Mellissa,
The bad penny pops his weary head again.
Just a little tip for you alone that may help you along the road. Take a look at www.cietours.ie/home/ and see how they professionals organise a tour of Ireland.
I am not telling you to book a tour but you will get ideas as to how to arrange a tour of Ireland in 10 days and what you can see. Go on have a look - its mighty.
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Oct 16th, 2005 | 09:36 PM
  #5  
AW, but CU, then I'd be following a tour group around! (What are we going to do if somebody else steals the tip that was meant for me alone?

No rest for the weary. Once you have got me educated, there will be another clueless tourist to educate. Many thanks for the education.

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Oct 17th, 2005 | 11:02 AM
  #6  
Melissa - Both of your itineraries look pretty much fine. But most of your destinations show up a lot here on these boards and in guidebooks, so I'm not sure you'll find "hidden" Ireland.

Have you considered the Inishowen peninsula, Carrowkeel passage tombs, Strokestown, St. Johnstown, Longford -- even Clonmacnoise or the Ulster American Folk Park in Omagh? (Neither of the last two are really hidden, but they are not such a high-profile spots as Bunratty, for instance.)

Just a few alternatives to consider - pretty far-flung, so they might not fit into your trip. But maybe they'll inspire you to find some other alternatives that will still let you see most of what's on your list already.

Have a great trip!
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Oct 17th, 2005 | 12:17 PM
  #7  
just a thought...plan C:
3 dingle
3 doolin
3 westport
2 donegal
2 belfast
2 dublin

castles...there are castles in all of the areas you are visiting...check a guide books (3 not far from doolin with banquets, atleast 1 I read about in the connemara, dublin has a castle, has to be some around belfast, also some on the way and in donegal, if you go that way, also ross castle would not be a bad day trip from dingle...plus you can't believe how many interesting castle ruins you will come across)

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Oct 17th, 2005 | 05:34 PM
  #8  
We found the real Ireland in many places.

In Donegal we met a group of folks from Northern Ireland who came to dance and wear Halloween costumes.

In Cavan a group of workers started foot and spoon dancing to the traditional music in the restaurant we visited. It was way cool.

Later the pub next door was served by "Wee Peggy" the tiny elder who served us beer.

Keep your eyes and ears out, you may easily find the real place.
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Oct 18th, 2005 | 12:12 AM
  #9  
WORKTOWANDER: I am hoping that, with our 3-night stays, we will have time to wander off in our rental car and find a bit of "Hidden" Ireland within a day-trip of our B&Bs. I also have a subscription to a magazine (Ireland of the Welcomes I think it is), which I am hoping will give us some ideas of where to wander off to. If it was just hubby and I, we would plan the trip differently. But we do like to entice our young adult daughters to come along, and after a day of wandering about in the car and exploring small villages and countryside, they will appreciate returning to a B&B in a lively place like Westport or Dingle. Thanks for your reply.

CHIP: Your plan c is enticing, except for the fact of flying from Southern California to Ireland, and then renting the car, and then driving directly to Dingle with a jet-lagged family! Thanks for the collection of castles, I'm pleased, I hadn't noticed that there were so many castles just waiting to be discovered on the itinerary I have already planned! (I have been thinking "trad music" and "archaeology" and "scenery" and "biology" (for hubby) and had forgotten about castles.)

DANNA: I'm glad you found the "real" Ireland...I hope we can too!

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Oct 19th, 2005 | 08:02 AM
  #10  
Hi Melissa:

You'll have no problem finding castles. Personally I would consider chips suggestion carefully and that would give you mare chances for "Hidden Ireland" by inserting Donegal. There are plenty of places to stop along the way between Shannon and Dingle. You could also consider 2 nights Dingle, 2 nights Kenmare.

Castles you could pass: Bunratty, Glin (if you take a side trip, it's a hotel now), Ross outside of Killarney if you go there, Doonagore castle just outside of Doolin (private), a couple of other ruins in and around Doolin, Gleninagh Castle between Ballyvaughn and Kinvarra, Dunguaire Castle in Kinvara, Oranmore Castle (the owners will give you a private tour if you knock on the door), Athenry castle just east of Galway, Aughnanure Castle in Oughterard if you go up the west coast of Lough Corrib (a nice route), Ashford Castle (spectacular hotel and location), D'Arcy Castle outside of Clifden, Rockfleet Castle on Achill, Parks Castle on the way to Belfast (that will be a long day), Enniskillen Castle on the way to Belfast .... ok, my fingers are starting to hurt, you get the idea.

A couple of notes, I wouldn't stay in Ballyvaughn if you are headed for Dingle the next day. You are adding to your time. Try the Atlantic View in Doolin. Nice view of the cliffs and a short drive or a long walk to town.

When I go to Dingle, I stay at The Shores, my favorite in Ireland. It's not in Dingle Town, so that may be a problem, but it's very serene, specatular view of the Atlantic, great hostess and very comfortable. All of this and the prices are midrange.

In Galway, some people like to stay at the Jury's Inn downtown. It's not quaint, but it's location is very nice. If you want to do something pretty interesting and you need another castle stop, why not stay at Cregg Castle (a bit of a splurge). The owners are musicians and do a concert in the great room most nights. Call them and make sure there will be someone there to play. It's a neat old building and a short drive in to Galway (www.creggcastle.com).

I tend to not stay in town as this note will make obvious. In (near) Westport, I stayed at Tighbeag B&B (http://www.anu.ie/tighbeag/index.html) which is near the village of Murrisk. Again, beautiful views and the owners were wonderful.

Never stayed near Belfast.

Hope this helps

Bill
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Oct 19th, 2005 | 02:54 PM
  #11  
Hi Mellissa,
Went into town today and called into a book store. Saw a book '100 best places to stay in in Ireland' Guess what there right in front of me was the guesthouse in Kilnaboy.
If you would like to see a few pictures of beautiful Clare log on to www.coastofclare.com/database.htm

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Oct 19th, 2005 | 07:07 PM
  #12  
Melissa5-

If you stay in Doolin the Ballyvara house is wonderful. They have family room with a double bed and 2 twins with a small balcony that you can stand on. It was recently completely remodeled. We stayed in the old building and liked it enough to stay again. We will definitely return. The new building is beautiful. The owners live on the front of the property and he and his company I believe built their home and Ballyvara House. There is a nice courtyard where they light fires and a nice sitting room with a fireplace and small bar. After hours it is on your honor. Check them out on line.
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Oct 20th, 2005 | 04:04 AM
  #13  
BrigOwn B&B in Ballina County Mayo sounds like the type of place that may interest you: Marjorie, the Owner / Operator has a cooking show on the local radio station. She has several cookbooks published. She has 3-rooms: a twin double, a double-bedded room and a single. Her property faces the river Moy. About 50m away is Crockets on the Quay (Trad music Mondays). The breakfast room is lovely & she boasts 17 different entrees but when I asked for Boxty, her reply was: "is that still on the menu?"

Ballina, Mayo's largest city, would be more convenient to Knock Shrine and you could also daytrip to Ceide Fields or Achill Island or Westport.

Plan A and Plan B both have you back tracking from Clare across the Shannon estuary to Dingle: why not head that way for the first night?? I recommend Killeline, just off the N-21 south of NewcastleWest, Co. Limerick on the Old Cork Road for a first night's stop. Killeline has a website. They also have a heated indoor swimming pool and a fully equipped spa to get you over that jetlag.
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Oct 25th, 2005 | 12:35 AM
  #14  
Wojazz3: Thanks for the castles and all the B&B suggestions. As tempting as Donegal is, I have settled on an itinerary which I think allows us some time to take day-trips from our bases and hopefully discover some of "hidden" Ireland:

Fly into shannon
1 night: B&B within 45-minutes of Shannon airport;
3 nights: Dingle Peninsula
3 nights: County Clare (Ballyvaughan?)
3 nights: Wesport area (w/Achill island, Killary Harbor)
2 nights: Belfast area
3 nights: Dublin (stay in city centre)

The Shore sounds so so tempting...but we're going to stay within walking distance of dingle town on this first trip for my daughters.

I"ll look at your B&B choice near WEstport, thanks.
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Oct 25th, 2005 | 12:50 AM
  #15  
CU: That's interesting that Fergus View is one of the "100 best places"...it's still tempting me as it sounds charming and quiet and unique...but if I stay in Ballyvaughan I will be closer to day-trip into Galway though.Thanks for the helpful web-sites.

DEWDROPS: Thanks for your recommendation for Doolin.

NEDSIRELAND: I will look up Brigown B&B in Ballina in County Mayo, appreciate the suggestion. I will have to look up Killeline, that's the name of the B&B/hotel, or a village?

I'd like to find someplace quaint and charming to spend a first night after we land in Shannon. I'm a bit worried as I've read some B&B s have begun requiring a 2-night stay. We want a 1-night stay upon landing in shannon airport, someplace between Shannon and Dingle.

Thanks so much everyone, as I book our B&Bs I can settle back and try to learn more about "hidden" places within a plesant day-trip of our B&Bs.
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Oct 25th, 2005 | 01:50 AM
  #16  
Ditto 1000% carrowkeel passage tpmbs. Unbelieveable,....magic!

Check http://www.mcdougalladventures.com/i...-passage-tombs for moreinformation from my trip.

Also, hidden Ireland on the west coast can include Deer Park Court Tomb.
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Oct 25th, 2005 | 07:29 AM
  #17  
Agree on carrowkeel. You will probably be the only one there too. Amazing place on the road between Boyle and Sligo.

Bill
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Oct 25th, 2005 | 02:01 PM
  #18  
Melissa5 writes: <<I'd like to find someplace quaint and charming to spend a first night after we land in Shannon. ... between Shannon and Dingle.>>

Killeline 'Leisure Park,' has a 34-room Lodge and B&B: I have caught a taxi from there to Shannon airport - 35 min. I would not call it quaint or charming but it has a fuly equipped Spa with a 20m indoor swimming pool, hi-tech workout gym and steam and sauna: just what the Doctor ordered to get over jetlag. Mick McCoy's Pub owned by formed Dail member John McCoy is the icing on the cake. That's where You get your breakfast (included in the room rate). John McCoy owns the 18-hole Parkland golf course and the Pub; I think the McCormick family owns the Lodge and the Spa.

As yiu enter Newcastlewest on N-21, take a left just before Courtney Lodge: over a 1-lane bridge and take the right fork at the Texaco Station.

If you miss that turn, hang a left at the Church and that should put ypu on the Old Cork Road below 1-lane bridge and the Texaco station.

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Oct 25th, 2005 | 10:16 PM
  #19  
Thanks for everyone's suggestions for a bit of hidden Ireland. LUCKYCAT: Thanks for the link, nice photos, looks like everyone is having way too much fun!

I'm trying to line up our B&Bs now and then I can relax and enjoy exploring ideas for relaxing day-trips.

We will want to take day-trips in County Clare, County Mayo, County Kerry, and also day-trips from Belfast (or Newtownards) area in Northern Ireland; plus we can explore a bit during the drive between Westport and Belfast/Newtownards. (Might stay in Newtownards or Bangor instead of Belfast.)

Sounds like July is crowded in Ireland. It would be great to drive to a spot and find ourselves alone there (or even almost alone!) My Irish grandmother would have called that a secret spot. She was so convincing we kids actually believed there were spots that nobody else knew about except for us!

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Oct 26th, 2005 | 01:17 AM
  #20  
Melissa,

Glad you liked the pics. We did have loads of fun. I hope you do too. If you want any more info, post a comment on my site and I'll get back to you with what I know. I do loads of research into everywhere I go so feel free to get in touch through the site.
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