Looking for a Lyon style bouchon In Paris
Dec 4th, 2009, 07:05 AM
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There are some restaurants in Paris that come close, but I don't think there's anything like a genuine bouchon in Paris unfortunately.
The most well known is "Aux Lyonnais" in the second which has been been around for about 100 years or so, but was recently bought by Alain Ducasse. Whilst the food is good (not as good as I've had in some Lyonnais Bouchons) the prices let you know that you're in Paris and in a restaurant owned by a big name chef.
It's definitely worth a visit if you're having Lyon withdrawal symptoms and need some good, solid cooking. I seem to remember the ox cheeks being really good, but don't know if they're still on the menu.
Out of interest, did you have any favourite restaurants when you were in Lyon? Having been to a hell of a lot of them, I'm always on the hunt for any new ones or ones I haven't heard of...
The most well known is "Aux Lyonnais" in the second which has been been around for about 100 years or so, but was recently bought by Alain Ducasse. Whilst the food is good (not as good as I've had in some Lyonnais Bouchons) the prices let you know that you're in Paris and in a restaurant owned by a big name chef.
It's definitely worth a visit if you're having Lyon withdrawal symptoms and need some good, solid cooking. I seem to remember the ox cheeks being really good, but don't know if they're still on the menu.
Out of interest, did you have any favourite restaurants when you were in Lyon? Having been to a hell of a lot of them, I'm always on the hunt for any new ones or ones I haven't heard of...
Dec 4th, 2009, 09:05 AM
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These come from a 1999 restaurant guide called Gourmet Paris so google to be sure any you select are still open. The claim is that these restaurants have at least some Lyonnais dishes, not that they are actual Bouchon type restaurants or wholly Lyonnais.
L'Assiette Lyonnaise at 21 rue Marbeuf in the 8th,
Le Bellecour at 22 rue Surcouf in the 7th,
Bistrot D'Alex at 2 rue Clement in the 6th, Cartet 62 rue de Malte in the 11th ( a gem), Les Coteaux 26 Blvd Garibaldi in the 15th, Le Lyonnais 26 rue d'Armaille in the 17th and Moissonnier28 rue des Fosses St. Bernard in the 5th. Also listed are Le Bouchon du Marais, 15 rue Francois Macon in the 4th and Le Petit Machon 123 rue de la Convention in the 15th.
The 2008/9 Zagat lists the following as having some Lyonnais dishes: Auberge Pyrenees 11th, Chez Fred 17th, Benoit 4th, Chex Marcel 6th, Chez Rene 5th, Duc de Richelieu 12th, Moissonier 5th, Opportun 14th and Vieux Bistro 4th, in addition to the already mentioned Aux Lyonnais.
Good luck. I too would like to hear your favorite Bouchons in Lyon since we'll be there over New Years.
L'Assiette Lyonnaise at 21 rue Marbeuf in the 8th,
Le Bellecour at 22 rue Surcouf in the 7th,
Bistrot D'Alex at 2 rue Clement in the 6th, Cartet 62 rue de Malte in the 11th ( a gem), Les Coteaux 26 Blvd Garibaldi in the 15th, Le Lyonnais 26 rue d'Armaille in the 17th and Moissonnier28 rue des Fosses St. Bernard in the 5th. Also listed are Le Bouchon du Marais, 15 rue Francois Macon in the 4th and Le Petit Machon 123 rue de la Convention in the 15th.
The 2008/9 Zagat lists the following as having some Lyonnais dishes: Auberge Pyrenees 11th, Chez Fred 17th, Benoit 4th, Chex Marcel 6th, Chez Rene 5th, Duc de Richelieu 12th, Moissonier 5th, Opportun 14th and Vieux Bistro 4th, in addition to the already mentioned Aux Lyonnais.
Good luck. I too would like to hear your favorite Bouchons in Lyon since we'll be there over New Years.
Dec 7th, 2009, 12:38 AM
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Hi Julie,
Apologies for the slow response, the weekend sort of got in the way. Here are a couple of of my favourite bouchons: top of the tree would have to be Le Tire Bouchon in rue du Boeuf. I've been many times and never been disappointed, but you may well need to book if you're there around New Year though as it seats probably a maximum of 35 people.
Another one that I love (but I find less atmospheric than Le Tire Bouchon) is Chabert & Fils in Rue des Marronniers. It regularly gets voted the best bouchon in Lyon but the hideous mural of some guignols that runs along an entire wall docks it a couple of points on my internal scorecard. The food is excellent though.
Another one which might come in handy is L'Amphitryon on rue St. Jean. Although the vast majority of the other bouchons on Rue St. Jean are complete tourist traps, L'Amphitryon serves really good food (if it's still on the menu, you must try the gratin d'andouillettes in a St. Marcellin sauce) and opens slightly earlier than many of the restaurants in the town centre, so if you get hungry, early it's a great place to know. The setting is also difficult to beat as it's right in the old town, so if possible, grab a table outside on the cobbles and watch the world go by.
Just one note of caution, the toilet facilities (or rather facility in the singular) at L'Amphitryon look as though they haven't been updated for at least 50 years and are of the 'Turkish' variety, which you need to walk down a little alleyway that runs alongside the restaurant to access. For me it's all part of the experience, but I thought I better forewarn you just in case!
Hope this helps a little, but don't hesitate to shout if you need any more info about restaurants or anything Lyon related.
Apologies for the slow response, the weekend sort of got in the way. Here are a couple of of my favourite bouchons: top of the tree would have to be Le Tire Bouchon in rue du Boeuf. I've been many times and never been disappointed, but you may well need to book if you're there around New Year though as it seats probably a maximum of 35 people.
Another one that I love (but I find less atmospheric than Le Tire Bouchon) is Chabert & Fils in Rue des Marronniers. It regularly gets voted the best bouchon in Lyon but the hideous mural of some guignols that runs along an entire wall docks it a couple of points on my internal scorecard. The food is excellent though.
Another one which might come in handy is L'Amphitryon on rue St. Jean. Although the vast majority of the other bouchons on Rue St. Jean are complete tourist traps, L'Amphitryon serves really good food (if it's still on the menu, you must try the gratin d'andouillettes in a St. Marcellin sauce) and opens slightly earlier than many of the restaurants in the town centre, so if you get hungry, early it's a great place to know. The setting is also difficult to beat as it's right in the old town, so if possible, grab a table outside on the cobbles and watch the world go by.
Just one note of caution, the toilet facilities (or rather facility in the singular) at L'Amphitryon look as though they haven't been updated for at least 50 years and are of the 'Turkish' variety, which you need to walk down a little alleyway that runs alongside the restaurant to access. For me it's all part of the experience, but I thought I better forewarn you just in case!
Hope this helps a little, but don't hesitate to shout if you need any more info about restaurants or anything Lyon related.
Dec 7th, 2009, 02:15 AM
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L'Assiette Lyonnaise has become Le Bistro Marbeuf (the former owner/manager retired). I like it, unpretentious, Lyonnais cooking, congenial staff. Moderately priced. Some reviews:
http://jp.mon-paris.info/sites/lebistromarbeuf/fr.html
http://jp.mon-paris.info/sites/lebistromarbeuf/fr.html
http://mmmm.free.fr/resto/2684.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...de_France.html
and here's a sample menu
http://www.resto.fr/menus.cfm?restau...RBEUF&idmenu=1
http://jp.mon-paris.info/sites/lebistromarbeuf/fr.html
http://jp.mon-paris.info/sites/lebistromarbeuf/fr.html
http://mmmm.free.fr/resto/2684.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...de_France.html
and here's a sample menu
http://www.resto.fr/menus.cfm?restau...RBEUF&idmenu=1
Dec 7th, 2009, 02:29 AM
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Jay G, thanks for your great response. The Lyonnaise do love their Guignol, don't they. I don't get the attraction but maybe you have to grow up with it. and thanks for the caution on the Amphitryon facilities. We encountered same in a Paris bistro when we were traveling with another couple and their then small children. They took pictures.
Yes, I would like some help on one matter, New Year's Eve. On another forum I was persuaded by someone who'd done it in a previous year to consider Bistrot de Lyon (I think I have that right) on Merceirie street as our destination for New Year's Eve. Pix on internet looked fun but our hotel tells us that they don't do anything different/special for NYEve. The place looks cute and fun enough to still provide some conviviality while we ring in the new year, but are you aware of any other places that might have something special available that we should be considering?
Do you know of any events for NYEve or Day within the town? Fireworks? etc? Thanks for your help.
And to the OP, sorry for horning in on this thread, but I need the info and wasn't successful in getting useful responses to a separate thread I started on the subject. Looks like you're getting some good info here though.
Yes, I would like some help on one matter, New Year's Eve. On another forum I was persuaded by someone who'd done it in a previous year to consider Bistrot de Lyon (I think I have that right) on Merceirie street as our destination for New Year's Eve. Pix on internet looked fun but our hotel tells us that they don't do anything different/special for NYEve. The place looks cute and fun enough to still provide some conviviality while we ring in the new year, but are you aware of any other places that might have something special available that we should be considering?
Do you know of any events for NYEve or Day within the town? Fireworks? etc? Thanks for your help.
And to the OP, sorry for horning in on this thread, but I need the info and wasn't successful in getting useful responses to a separate thread I started on the subject. Looks like you're getting some good info here though.
Dec 7th, 2009, 03:08 AM
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Hi Julie, no problem. As the OP seems to have disappeared I think we can continue with our friendly hijacking (if there is such a thing) of this thread.
The Guignols seem to hold a funny position in Lyon, none of the Lyonnais I know (my wife included) actually seems to like them and many find them a little creepy, but do see them as a small source of pride. Their attraction also bypasses me totally...
Traditionally in Lyon, New Year's Eve celebrations are spent with family and friends usually held at the home of whoever has the largest house, so public celebrations are at an absolute minimum. As so few people are out and about and fireworks so closely regulated in France I doubt there'll be any fireworks going on at all, at least I can't remember there ever having been any the few New Year's Eves that I've been there.
Also as the 'fetes des lumieres' runs from the 5th to 8th of December so I guess the public coffers are running on empty.
Anyway, back to food. I think the Bistrot de Lyon is a good spot to see the New Year in. Whilst the food isn't brilliant, it is still very good (you're in Lyon after all) and the atmosphere should be worth the trip. Also be prepared to 'faire le bise' with everyone (and I do mean everyone) in the restaurant when midnight strikes.
Rue Merciere should also be very pretty as it's a pedestrian, cobbled street right in the centre of town (excuse me if I'm giving you information you already know) and will be decorated beautifully. Another upside is that the street also has lots of bars in the vicinity so if you feel like going on somewhere afterwards there are plenty of options nearby. There will probably be lots of visitors to the city out and about also, so there should be enough animation to keep your night interesting.
There might be a few restaurants that have a special new years eve menu, I'll have a dig around and see what I can find.
The Guignols seem to hold a funny position in Lyon, none of the Lyonnais I know (my wife included) actually seems to like them and many find them a little creepy, but do see them as a small source of pride. Their attraction also bypasses me totally...
Traditionally in Lyon, New Year's Eve celebrations are spent with family and friends usually held at the home of whoever has the largest house, so public celebrations are at an absolute minimum. As so few people are out and about and fireworks so closely regulated in France I doubt there'll be any fireworks going on at all, at least I can't remember there ever having been any the few New Year's Eves that I've been there.
Also as the 'fetes des lumieres' runs from the 5th to 8th of December so I guess the public coffers are running on empty.
Anyway, back to food. I think the Bistrot de Lyon is a good spot to see the New Year in. Whilst the food isn't brilliant, it is still very good (you're in Lyon after all) and the atmosphere should be worth the trip. Also be prepared to 'faire le bise' with everyone (and I do mean everyone) in the restaurant when midnight strikes.
Rue Merciere should also be very pretty as it's a pedestrian, cobbled street right in the centre of town (excuse me if I'm giving you information you already know) and will be decorated beautifully. Another upside is that the street also has lots of bars in the vicinity so if you feel like going on somewhere afterwards there are plenty of options nearby. There will probably be lots of visitors to the city out and about also, so there should be enough animation to keep your night interesting.
There might be a few restaurants that have a special new years eve menu, I'll have a dig around and see what I can find.
Dec 7th, 2009, 04:55 AM
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Hello again Julie,
I had a quick scout round and it seems that the only restaurants/venues that are doing something special for New Year's Eve are the sort of places that you wouldn't really want to eat at on a regular night (in my opinion).
Average prices seem to be in the €40 - €60 range for buffet-style dinners (aperitif dinatoire if it helps) and probably wouldn't be worth anywhere near that sort of money.
The town of Lyon doesn't seem to be having any sort of official celebration so I'd suggest sticking with your plan of the Bistrot de Lyon for your evening meal, then finishing off with a couple of nightcaps in the vicinity.
I'll also add in a recommendation for lunch if you're in the city centre around lunchtime during your stay. Cafe 203 on rue de Garet just behind the Opera House does a light lunch, main course, dessert and a glass of wine for about €8. It's tiny, so you may have to wait for a table, but you can wait at the zinc bar with a peach kir admiring the art (which changes every two weeks or so) and chatting to the regulars.
I had a quick scout round and it seems that the only restaurants/venues that are doing something special for New Year's Eve are the sort of places that you wouldn't really want to eat at on a regular night (in my opinion).
Average prices seem to be in the €40 - €60 range for buffet-style dinners (aperitif dinatoire if it helps) and probably wouldn't be worth anywhere near that sort of money.
The town of Lyon doesn't seem to be having any sort of official celebration so I'd suggest sticking with your plan of the Bistrot de Lyon for your evening meal, then finishing off with a couple of nightcaps in the vicinity.
I'll also add in a recommendation for lunch if you're in the city centre around lunchtime during your stay. Cafe 203 on rue de Garet just behind the Opera House does a light lunch, main course, dessert and a glass of wine for about €8. It's tiny, so you may have to wait for a table, but you can wait at the zinc bar with a peach kir admiring the art (which changes every two weeks or so) and chatting to the regulars.
Dec 10th, 2009, 08:57 AM
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Jay G, thanks so much for your scouting report. While I'm disappointed that there's nothing special happening, I'm glad to know that for certain so I can stop trying to find it and just get going with the Bistrot de Lyon folks. And thanks, I'll look for Cafe 203. I think I booked a place called Garet, which is probably on that street for one of our dinners. Hope that's good as well. You've been very helpful.I appreciate it.
