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Trip Report: Normandy--Ste. Marie du Mont, Bayeux, Honfluer and Places Inbetween

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Trip Report: Normandy--Ste. Marie du Mont, Bayeux, Honfluer and Places Inbetween

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Old May 21st, 2005, 07:21 PM
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Trip Report: Normandy--Ste. Marie du Mont, Bayeux, Honfluer and Places Inbetween

Spent 3 weeks in England and Franch, but I suspect my 5 days in the Normandy region may be the most lasting memories. Much help from this chatboard made our venture into Normandy a wonderful experience.

Based on a suggestion from this chatboard we used BETS for all our train reservations and coordination--from EuroStar, to TGVs(France's high speed trains) and other trains. BETS is a professional, reasonably priced organization---really helped in cutting down time in trying to organize multifaceted train trips. With a last minute trip and full time work they were a life saver. I can't say enough about them. They alerted me to holidays and possible travel problems. They can be reached at 1-800-441-9413.

Another tip from this chatboard that I found well worth while was renting a car from AutoEurope. They made the car rental easy, they were very pleasant and their prices were good. [email protected]

We went the opposite that most people do in Normandy because of my son's time constraints. We took a TGV down to Rennes and picked up a car there.

We drove to Mount Ste. Michel. We were only there a short while, but seeing this unwordly wonder was well worth the time.

Again, based on a tip from this chatboard we stayed our first night at a charming B&B in Ste. Marie du Mont near Ste Mere Eglise. The owner Phillip Cornil is extremely knowledgeable about the Normandy Landings and history about WWII. The B&B was about 45 euros a night. The town is a step back in time---with an excellent restaurant very near the B&B. http://www.lamaisondeshotes.com
I really liked being in this tiny village---a whole other side of France outside of Paris, and the better known Normandy towns. Quiet and peaceful.

You can easily get tours in the landing area. We chose to go it alone, driving to Ste Mere Eglise, Utah Beach, Pont de Hoc, Omaha Beach, Arromanches, and the American Cemetary. No words that I can write can express what we saw and experienced. Spend a day or two there yourself, you'll know what I mean. We also went to the Caen Memorial or Peace Museum. This is probably the best history museum I have ever been in.

No one says much about Arromanches, but we thoroughly enjoyed it. Wonderful beach with a man-made harbor that was built for the Normandy Landings. Really incredible. We enjoyed the town, the beach, and the food!

The drive from Arromanches to Caen on some back roads was some of the prettiest scenery I have ever seen.

We spent two nights in Bayeux at the Hotel d'Argouges. About 80 euros per night, the hotel was probably a little formal for our tastes. But the owner and staff were very helpful, the rooms were quiet, clean, somewhat plain, with a very nice bathroom.

The Bayeux tapestry, which I wasn't sure would be my cup of tea, is fantastic.

My son left at the juncture and I drove solo from Bayeux to Honfleur by the coastal roads. Just wonderful! And if I can drive solo (a person with no sense of direction) anyone can. It is really pretty easy. And just gorgeous.

I stayed at a wonderful B&B in Honfleur called La Cour Satine Catherine. An old, old abby, then a apple press, the ancient building has been completly re-done. I had a huge, wonderful room with nice bathroom. About 70 euros. The owners were very kind, helping me---the solo traveler---in many ways. I enjoyed Honfleur, but was there on a holiday. It was packed. I would stronly suggest not to go to Honfleur on a weekend or holiday. Too crowded. I am sure it would be much more fun in mid-week.

Drove from Honfleur to Rouen which I enjoyed a great deal. I especially liked the church built on the sight of where Joan of Arch was martyred. Very modern with old stain glass windows. Quite lovely.

The Normandy region is really much more beautiful than I had anticipated. Whether a day trip, or several days, I think seeing Normandy will give you a different and special perspective of France.

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Old May 21st, 2005, 09:00 PM
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Hi Adam,

Great to hear you enjoyed your stay in Honfleur with Liliane and Antoine Giaglis! It's true, it is best to visit Honfleur in mid-week. You may also have hit a day when a Seine tour boat was docking in the town, which adds to crowding. On the official town Web site, there's a calendar with those docking dates. Otherwise, we often rise early to walk down to the Old Harbor and have breakfast at one of the many spots with table on the quay, usually the Albatross. Very few people out early in the morning. The crowds also thin out considerably in the evening, especially after dark, when the reflections in the Old Harbor are magical. For me, the charm shines through, no matter how many visitors there are.
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Old May 22nd, 2005, 07:15 AM
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We also loved Normandy.

And Arromanches should be part of any D day oriented trips (I think the story of how the invasion really worked is overlooked. This may be best but the engineer in me is fascinated by the idea of towing a prefabricated harbor from England. Especially after the disasterous raid on Dieppe.)

I would love the chance to tour St Marie Du Mont (saw it thru the bus window).

The American cemetery was also very memorable.

Honfluer (and the coast road back) too.
Loved Normandy, needed more time tho'.
 
Old May 22nd, 2005, 08:20 AM
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Doble: My son and I are no engineers but were absolutely awestruck by the work that was entailed to make that harbor for equipment landing. Our B&B host in Ste. Marie du Mont said that slowly Mother Nature is taking all that concrete back and it is thought it won't be seen for much longer.

We all have things we like better than others on these trips. I had expected just to be enthralled by Honfleur, but wasn't. I think I would have loved it before it became as commercialized as it is. It seems too touristy for me. I loved the B&B---by far the best I have stayed in in France or England. But I if I were to do it again I might spend the night in Honfleur, but just spend an hour or two in the town. However, the drives around Honfleur I think are just beautiful.
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Old May 22nd, 2005, 08:23 AM
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Can you give more info on "Bets"?
website?
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Old May 22nd, 2005, 08:27 AM
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I don't know that they have a website. They do have that 800 number and are very willing to just talk with you as you try to figuer your transportation. I had so many changes because of my son, plus his travel to and from and mine. I really can't say enough about BETS. They solved a lot of potential travel problems for us plus gave some excellent traveling tips.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 05:10 AM
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I am glad you had a good trip. I am looking forward to mine in September. I am scheduled to be in Honfleur on a Sat. and Sun. night but probably can't change it now.

Thank you for your report. I enjoyed it very much.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 10:31 AM
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ggnga: Well from what Dave has written it seems you can enjoy the early morning and later in the evening in Honfleur and go to some of the surronding areas during the day, which I think would be a good bet.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 12:45 PM
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Adamsparks, was your B and B owned by the Booths? A man by that name was our Battlebus D Day tour guide, and he and wife own a B and B in that town.

I was just checking it out online last evening.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 12:56 PM
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I should have mentioned that I'm referring to the B and B in St. Marie du Mont. We stayed at Giaglis' in Honfleur--wonderful place, isn't it? And at d'Argouges in Bayeux. Actually thought it was great, too, although we were "doing" the countryside (Mt. St. Michel and clear over to St. Malo, Peace museum in Caen, and of course, a whole day tour of D Day sights) to such an extent that we almost didn't make it to the Tapestry even with 3 nights in Bayeux.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 01:22 PM
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Sounds like a wonderful trip. Thanks for sharing!
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 02:51 PM
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grandmere: The Ste. Marie B&B is owned by Philippe Cornil [email protected] and http://www.lamaisondeshotes.com. This was such a special place to visit. Way off the tourist route. A tiny French village. The accommodations were fun and Philippe is recognized for his work and knowledge about the D-Day landings. It was a special, quiet interlude in a busy trip.
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Old May 23rd, 2005, 04:14 PM
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I've had positive experiences with BETS (Budget Europe Travel Service) and have been receiving their annual rail guide since about 1990. Very helpful, will stay on the phone and answer every one of my questions, however ridiculous or mundane.
I just don't know why they never got their website off the ground. They were supposed to have it up and running about 5 years ago.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 06:50 AM
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platzman: I thought I would be bothered that BETS had no website, but because they were so unbelieveably helpful via phone---like you they answered all my questions and were so patient and helpful as I learned about the European rail system--I found I really didn't miss the website at all! I just couldn't believe all they did for our trip at such a reasonable price.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 07:10 AM
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How did BETS's prices compare to buying directly from the SNCF?
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Old May 24th, 2005, 12:26 PM
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Post-trip blur I have no re-collection. It was obviously more---but only in $$. In hassle, time spent, and logistics they were a savings. Perhaps you could do a comparison to find out what works for you.
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Old May 24th, 2005, 04:55 PM
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Enjoyed your report. I want to start planning a Normandy trip soon - yours sounded alot like what I want to do. Did you leave your car in Rouen, and train back to Paris? I would probably start from there, or possibly Caen. I've been to Mont St. Michel, so don't need to go over that far. This forum is so great for trip planning!
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Old May 24th, 2005, 08:38 PM
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ggnga: The September crowds in Honfleur are smaller. The Saturday morning market in the middle of the hisotric district is wonderful, if you will be in town then. Also, you could have your big meal on Saturday at midday -- two hours off the streets when they are likely to be busiest. (Le P'tit Mareyeur on the rue Haute is a wonderful restaurant, mainly seafood,and 20 euros for a five-course meal, excluding supplements on some choices.) Most of the tour bus and boat cruise visitors walk a predictable path from the large public parking lot and quay, around the Old Harbor, to the Avenue de La Republic, a shopping street just outside the historic district that leads to the Old Harbor, and along the five streets in the historic district that have shops. But the historic district is larger than that, and if you enjoy looking at old houses, as we do, you'll find calm streets even on the busiest days. And the very nice museums, including the Boudin art museum, on the rue Homme de Bois and the Maisons Satie on the rue Haute, will be much less visited than you might think.
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Old May 25th, 2005, 07:21 AM
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Sue4--I did pick up my car in Rennes vs driving from Paris. It was so easy. I think the positive of picking up your car either in Rouen or Bayeux vs Caen is that they are smaller towns and so it is just a snap to get from the train station to the car rental. And I actually enjoyed Rouen a good deal more than I had expected. The cathederal is nice---but after a while I get burned out on cathederals and I had seen some great ones in London and Paris. What I enjoyed about Rouen is it is so nicely accessible. I saw the cathederal, the wonderful old clock, a great market, the Plague area, and the Joan of Arc area with very little effort. I think Rouen has a very nice feel. Caen got bombed badly during WWII, so isn't very as picturesque tho' the drive in and out of it is very pretty. And Caen we found to be much harder to get around then Rouen I cannot say enoough about the museum in Caen. It really made me think, and is still on my mind. Bayeux is also a very, very easy place to get a train
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