Pausanias

We've decided this is where we truly want to go this summer, so we'll face the crowds. We'll have two weeks in August, possibly an extra day, for a total of 16 or 17 days including arrival and departure.

We plan to fly into CDG and rent a car, or perhaps take a train to a first destination and rent a car there. Places we'd like to see:

Chartres -- revisit to cathedral and stay one night to see the rest of the town. Another tour with M. Miller.

Les Andelys -- particularly interested in studying Chateau Gaillard. One night at La Chanine d'Or? Should we detour through Lyons-le-Foret on the way to

Rouen -- appears to be worth about two days? A day for the town and another to walk to one of the Abbeys? Any ideas for a hotel?

Honfleur -one night, may be two to allow for a daytrip to Etratat and a walk along the cliffs, if that is feasible.

Caen or Bayeaux -- two days, one for the D Day beaches, the other for tapestry and town. Which town would you prefer?

Mont St-Michele -- one night. Should we stay on or off the isle?

More than half our time is gone!

OK -- Dinan -- two nights, one for city, one for walk on Cote d'Emeraude. Or three or more to include visits to Fougeres and Vitre?

Do we have to time to get out for a walk on the Cote de Granit Rose? Or should we head back and stop in the vicinity of Alencon to visit St-Ceneri-le-Gerei and Sees?

I suspect we are biting off rather too much, and would appreciate some guidance. Our main interests in this area are medieval architecture and getting in a few nice walks by sea or river. I gather good restaurants abound but that good hotels can be harder to find. Appreciate any advice.

Langcraft

Dear Pausanias:

I was in Normandy and Brittany this past September and it was delightful. However, as you plan to go in August, when all of France and especially Parisians head for the beaches and coast, you will to say the least, be surrounded by the hordes.

Nonetheless, your itinerary sounds good. When I went on my trip, I stayed 4 nights in a delightful farmhouse near Mortain,using it as a base for trips to Rennes, Mont St. Michel, Fougeres and St. Malo.

I then headed toward Amboise via the region known as Mayenne which was lovely.

Of the places you plan on seeing, I would suggest perhaps 2 nights in Honfleur; it is lovely town with plenty to see i.e walks along the Channel and meandering the streets away from the port. Les Andelys is good for a few hours, but I would stay in Rouen rather than Lyons-le-Foret.

Both Caen and Bayeux are great cities to spend time in. I'd devote at least a day and a night for each.

Mont St. Michel is fabulous and even in September it was quite crowded. There are numerous places to stay nearby; indeed I was surprised that the town of Pontorson and Avranches are very tourist oriented so that finding a room shouldnt be too difficult, provided that you do it soon for August!!

Hope this helps a bit.. Drop me a line for any other info..

Regards..
Luis

Dave_in_Paris

Would urge you to schedule Honfleur on a weekday other than Friday if possible to avoid the worst of the August crowds, and to visit the Old Harbor early in the morning and the evening, when it is calmer. The best Honfleur restaurants are away from the Old Harbor: The Absinthe and the P'tit Mareyeur, and a notch down but still very nice, the Grenouille and the Ancrage. If you must dine on the Old Harbor, the Vieux Honfleur is pretty good. Queen Elizabeth had lunch there a couple of summers ago (maybe with a few extra flourishes from the kitchen). And the Ascot looks promising, too.

Underhill

Les Andelys are interesting towns to visit, and La Chaîne d'Or is a very nice hotel with a fine restaurant. It's all very French Country in style--the friend who traveled with us said it was exactly what you would want for a first night in France.

We drove to Rouen via Lyon la Fôret and were glad that we did--pretty little town with a nice flowered village green, along with picturesque hourses.

Honfleur isn't the best location for a visit to Etretat, as it's in the opposite direction. But you could stay in and visit Fécamp along with Etretat, then drive to Honfleur the next day (you can see the town easily in one day).

We liked Bayeux better than Caen as a place to stay, although we enjoyed sightseeing in Caen. If you go to see the Abbaye des Hommes, it's now partly used as a municipal headquarters. There's a large underground parking lot nearby, and it appears to be a safe place for leaving luggage in the car because of the police presence.

If you can stay at Mont St-Michel overnight, do it!

From there you can visit Fougères and Vitré as you move into Brittany on your way to Dinan.

Send me a message at [email protected] and I'll send you the 3 articles on Brittany that I worte for the bonjourparis.com web site. They include hotel and restaurant information as well as sightseeing suggestions and reports.

zotique

I went last year and had the time of my life.

I did NOT go to:

1. The D-Day Beaches or anywhere near salt water
2. Mont St. Michel
3. Caen
3. Rouen
4. Bayeux
5. Chartres
6. Honfleur

Dave_in_Paris

Zotique, you're a person after my own heart, passionate and contrarian, but everyone does not have family in Normandy!

zotique

Dave you live in Paris. That's pretty cool too. I couldn't afford to come near the place.

Yup.

I was luckier than hell, but if anyone has a chance to go to the public market on Saturday in Nogent le Retrou they have awesome dried chevreuil and sanglier sausages and a cheese selection to die for!

Dave_in_Paris

There you go! Sounds great and I'll try to get there one day. Otherwise, guilty as charged, though I did just eat a Picard frozen dinner, and I do live on the cheap side of town.

sheila

I don't have family in Normandy or anywhere else in Brittany, and since you're touring I'll tell you what I'd do.

I feel if ever there was a must see in France it's Mon st Michel, but it'll be hell in August, so arrange to arrive there just before the gates close and stay overnight. Use the evening to wander round the Mount.

Then do the insides FIRST thing in the morning and get the hell out of Dodge as fast as you can.

Then go all the way down into the South West and wander round there. You'll still have hordes but they'll be smaller, and the scenery will be off the scale of good.

Pausanias

Thanks to all for your thoughtful suggestions. I'll post again when I've firmed up the itinerary -- which I suppose I'd best get down to.

Images2

We leave in a couple of days for Brittany and are staying at Chambres d’Hotes Le Logis du Jerzual in Dinan. www.logis-du-jerzual.com/ 2nd floor rooms are €65 for 2 people includes breakfast. First floor rooms are €75 for same. Ask for Rm La Halte (€75). This is a separate self contained apartment. The room is beautiful. It includes a canopied bed, table and chairs, a large fireplace with wood provided at no extra cost, with a couple of chairs. Ample storage and small kitchen area with everything you would need to take your meals in. Bathroom is small with a shower. Spotless. Breakfast is taken in the main house and is included. Downhill from town, not uphill.

We plan on doing several day trips from Dinan, staying there 5 nights.

We have been to several of the areas you mention, and I'd recommend only one day in Rouen. Etratat is excellent for hiking the coast. Don't miss it. Bayeaux would be much nicer to stay in than Caen. Hotel Churchill there is nice. Have a great trip.